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It sounds like your right-side drain is blocked before you even started - is this right?

@@BrevTechah now I saw this, yes that’s also what I was thinking. I’ll keep you updated

Yes, so after manually filling the boiler with some of the solution (by unplugging the ted probe) and letting it soak for a good while, it took me some waiting and shaking, but then there were a lot of flakes that came out with all the water. So you were right, it was just a clogged drain in the beginning. Here it was important to unplug the red to get some solution in at all.

@@maximiliankrause9533 Thanks for sharing your experience. Hopefully now, things will be more smooth next time you do it.

The new ones don't have internal o-rings. The do have their own problems tho - the metal rod can get pushed up when the material softens up. Time will tell if this ends up causing leaks, but it's quite possible we will have the same descale problems again if they do.

Hi, does it stop after 30 secs or keep going? and have you recently taken the machine apart?

Solenoid valve stuck open. Or the Triac board is fried.

@@Koolnirvanaguy On the bes920 the triac board is just for the boilers - unlike the Oracles

That’s right. The main power control board takes care of the solenoid.

@@Koolnirvanaguy yeah this is why I suspect the front panel. It could be water in one of the shot buttons. Failing that, the main board

Yes, that has been the traditional way, but that method doesn't descale your steam boiler inlet port properly (important), your coffee boiler, group head or solenoid - it's just doing the steam boiler element. I think this way is much easier too.

This is true. And sorry if it's a dumb question, but why doesn't the same issue - blowing the thermal fuse - occur in the brew boiler?

It’s a good question and I’m not 100% sure but it’s either the different design level probe or the lack of steam in that boiler

This is often a swollen seal inside the brew pump. Try increasing the pre-infusion strength (hold both arrow buttons in) to see if that helps. can i ask what firmware version you have?

d11 is what I see in the diag menu, I will give the pre-infusion power increase a try. Is there a permanent fix for this issue without increasing preinfusion power?

@ ​​⁠repair the pump with the kit from my store or replace the pump.

Ha, yes sorry. I had in my mind last time about the machine not going through the process with the blue wire cut - I think i was confusing things with another model - or maybe the a later firmware version I haven't tried yet. I also never considered your case, which is why i re-made the video with some suggestions for you. The vac valve is the middle port on top. it's not easy to remove (i use an impact driver) it's central so allows you to feed the wire straight, but you might be able to come in from any of the probe ports. In your case, it sounds like you had a LOT of buildup in there. My next step would be to try turning the valve on and off a few times to see if that breaks it up. Failing these things you could take out the valve by removing the 20 or so screws on the bottom base to get to them.

@@BrevTech wow you remade the video because of me? Thanks :) I gotta say, your videos are the reason I feel confident about tinkering with my DB. Thank you very much for taking the time to make them.

It should work - i just don't have any in right now to test with. Not having any heat should resolve both the overheating and non filling issue. In your example, that could happen if the red probe was contaminated, which stopped the pump from running, but the blue probe was reading ok (so turned off the heat). So, yes, this should stop that too

I turn my steam wand on when doing that. You can see when its full since there will be water coming out of the steam wand :)

The number one reason the probes malfunction is steam carries water/agent up to the top of the boiler. This is usually during the fill stage on the first rinse. As we don't have enough heat for that, then the red probe (should) work as normal and fill the boiler to the correct levels. If yours does fail, then the worse that can happen is the boiler is cold and empty - so remove and clean the red probe. Then order some new probes :)

Those two screws should be holding the lid down. I guess yours aren't going into it for some reason. Maybe the mounts have broken off

Make sure you use enough and the hole is drilled deep enough. I've not heard of anyone having this issue and i've been making them for a year. I use plaster as it stays a little flexible and should put less pressure on the wire as it springs up and down.

​@@BrevTechI left it this time for 2 days and its still not solid. Yes I drilled it deep. Saw another video where he capped it with crazy glue. I did this. That was a good idea. Also, when you reassemble you are missing a screw to be placed back in. I had one left over and see on yours you did not put it back in. Anyway, thanks for the part. Machine turns on now.

@ well spotted! I will add the glue capping into the instructions. I did this in the first video but missed it out on this one :(

Hi, there is a link to the website above these comments and it's in the description too. You can increase the pre-infusion strength if you press both arrow buttons which will get you by in the short-to-medium term

@BrevTech if i get the pump to work once ( hot water or anything ) Then the pre infusion would work normal for as many shots as i want , if i start the machine from cold no pre infusion unless i do this , but as mentioned the pump sound drasticlly changed after a descale wich brough out a crazy amount of scale ) You think its better if i get a new pump or the kit would be enough ? Also is there anything else i need to recconect the big water pipes ? Zip ties etc Thanks a lot Ill carry out the repairs this weekend hopefully

@@s3anuk all done now , wasnt too easy with all the cables , but maybe cuz it was first time , can confirm the pre infusion works now 😀 thanks to this vid , i ended up buying the pump was only 17 £ 🫣 Left it open to check for some leakage for 2 days or so All good so far 😀 Thanks a lot boys

Thanks!

@@Koolnirvanaguy ok, I switched to a 16-18g basket for mine. That works for me.

@@BrevTech thanks. I’ll keep fiddling with it.

It will likely be your main pump - especially if the water isn't going into the drip tray either.

It could be another component on the triac board I guess. It might be best to get a whole new board

@@minchingho to confirm you are testing across the element tabs and not across the wires going through the other parts? If you get no resistance then I’m afraid your boiler is scrap as the element would have burned out :(

@@BrevTech I also tested across the tabs and the reading was 16 ohm. is that normal?

@ that’s about right I think if it’s a 120v. I misunderstood you before Hopefully it just needs the thermal fuse replacing

@@BrevTech I checked thermal fuse and it was fine. Does that mean I need to replace thermal switch(thermostat)? I check the resistance across the tabs and this is also open circuit.

@ yes that should be closed until it reaches 152c so replace it

@@Koolnirvanaguy the basket needs to be damp or wet to avoid the wavy tamp. It a design problem and I’m not sure why Breville didn’t supply coated baskets like they do with the single one. The only way to successfully reduce the dose down to say 18g is buy a smaller basket for it.

The auto dosing just doesn’t sense the right amount of coffee if I lower the dose to say 19 grams , the machine will over grind and there is an excessive amount of grinds left on top of the fan v

@ are you using a stock basket or a smaller one?

i've not played around with it much, but have you tried changing the tamp settings in the live debug menu to see if that works?

Hi, so i can understand better which part, send me a chat or email from the website and i'll take a look.

Are you 100% it was the correct triac?

Model number we took out was Q6015L6 and Batch number 9CZAD. The replacement was the same model number with batch number PH238. We were thinking possibly the triac batch is bad but other than that we’re at a loss. Thanks for the quick reply!

@@haydenwilkes5327 measure between the tab and middle pin. It should be open circuit. I've been sent cheap clones from China in the past that had non-isolated tabs. Nowadays, I always order my parts from Digitech or Mouser

Tab has continuity with the middle prong. We might order new ones either way. Thanks again!

@@haydenwilkes5327 yep, thats a dodgy triac. They should not have continuity.

yep they are the same

Also, there is water in the steam boiler, and high probe AD 236, low probe AD 40.

I guess my problem is that the temp seems to “hover“ at 99-100 after a while of it slowly going up, but not going up any higher, even though it says steam boiler ON all the time.

Oh, and as for error codes.. the only one I get is the occasional „ER18 Steam Boiler NTC not responding“, currently at count 2

@@kassianchannel Hi, I say what causes this at: ruclips.net/video/erTvSJMyt6M/видео.html

@@BrevTechwow, thanks for your quick answer! Just for some additional information to get this diagnosis done tonight - is there a way to distinguish the triac/opto coupler being fried from a problem with the thermal switch shutting off too early without taking the whole machine so far apart as to actually physically reach the thermal switch? Anything that would distinguish those in a measurement with just the lid off and triac board accessible?

Thanks! Yes, as long as it's an olab brand then the plunger is usually enough for the repair.

Take a look here: ruclips.net/user/postUgkxrnkFddHinki73SgN3ia97_St6oGEeRKN?si=hC85z_4nZjXjRHNR

Good question. From what I can see, they are the same part.

I actually disassembled mine per your instruction and the two wires were intact to the sensor. I think the circuit board or sensor itself may have gone bad. In any event, they are included in the replacement kit as well.

🤣 I sound nothing like him, he's from London

thanks! Not if it's just dripping from the tip; however, it could be an indication the rest of the steam valve is wearing out too. Any leaks around that area can cause problems - especially if the bracket holding it all in rusts away. You can't buy that part.

coffee and grouphead boilers should be around 88-94c then steam boiler around 130c

@@BrevTech Many thanks!!

If it keeps warm when turned off then the triac board is letting power through to one of the boilers. You can find out which one either by using an energy meter and taking note of the watts or amps it's pulling, or for the Oracle, go into the live debug mode and see the temperatures of the boilers.

Thanks. Do you have a video on the oracle live debug mode? I don’t have the touch version and don’t know how to access or interpret this menu.

Yes I do need to do one for the Oracle. Those screws are philips and can sometimes be very stuck. Push up hard to avoid rounding the heads off. Good luck

@@BrevTech Thanks got there eventually - ended up using an extended bit on an impact driver! For others, its a Philips #1 and is the same as the lower panel screws on the back. You also need a driver with a straight 100mm shaft - most of my Philips heads are on a bit-holder type driver and this is too thick to fit in the recessed shaft. My small slot head screwdriver fitted in the crosshead well but simply couldn't generate enough torque.

@@geoffbaldwin1618 great work! i was going to suggest using an impact driver but didn't think you would fit one in there.

It's either water inside from a leak (does it work when you first turn it on? i.e. when dry) or faulty components. What errors do you get in the log?

The link to my shop should be above this comment.

Thanks. I might have to rethink another way around this then, for those ones. I'm pretty sure i've seen the newer 920s and 980s also use all 3 boilers as an average like the 990 does too. Maybe shorting across the NTC would work. This would make it think it's hot.