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I enjoy some mood flakes for Christmas, but I’m already longing for spring ☀️. We’re lucky to see the sun a couple times each month during the winter here in Michigan.

If the burner knob is in the ignite position, it might be an issue with the igniter, or perhaps the gas pressure itself. I would check to see if there’s a spark at the igniter.

Glad this helped, thanks for watching! The little height adjustment knob on my old Craftsman table saw had snapped off. After years of continued use, I think it’s pretty much become muscle memory to grab the whole wheel instead of the knob 🙂.

Thanks for providing that tip! I didn't have issues with any of the legs being out of level, but good to know there's an adjustment that can be made if need arises.

Thanks! Mine has this issue as well. It's tough finding any direction on adjusting the legs. How do you do it?

@@pabloc7218 the rubber “foot” on one leg has a band that pulls out/open which allows you to turn the foot clockwise or counterclockwise to change the length. Once stable, you lock the strap on that foot and you should be good.

Hi there- It's been a while since I converted the grill, but I'm pretty sure the regulator I removed was specifically for propane. The kit and its included orifices are designed for natural gas pressure of 7 inches water column, which is what our house is regulated at, so I didn't need to regulate any further. I believe 7"wc is fairly standard pressure for NG supply at most homes in the U.S. If your house has a higher NG pressure, then you may need to add a regulator to reduce it to the required 7 "wc.

Unlike propane natural gas is low pressure so you don’t need a regulator.

My screw snapped when trying to remove one, anyone have any advice on how to get the snapped part removed?

@7mileislandreview A screw extractor is the only way I know.

@7mileislandreview I’ve heard using WD-40 is decent way to loosen up the old screws/orifices. For broken ones, a screw extractor and or drill bit with rubber band may help with removal. Good luck! I know it’s not uncommon to have them snap.

The plastic is my moisture barrier since this floor is being installed on concrete in our basement. The laminate has a pad attached to it, and vendor states that no additional pad should be used. I've had no issues with this floor sliding around, and really don't think I could get it to budge if I tried (even with 1/4" gap left around the perimeter).

I’ve actually been a lot better about wearing shoes while working on projects, but didn’t see much risk with this one as it was a pretty clean environment indoors and on the patio.

@@lorischulte9762 Hi there! It sounds like one of the wires is fully disconnected from the inside of the motor housing? If so, you could attempt to open up the plastic housing and see if you can locate where the wire should go (make sure the inflatable is not plugged in). It may have been a soldered connection, which is a bit trickier to repair but definitely not impossible. Otherwise, if there’s still a portion of a broken wire hanging out of the motor, you could attempt to splice it with electrical tape / wire nut. All else fails, you could swap the entire blower out. Good luck with your repair!

Yes, I left a 1/4" gap on both sides of the moulding to allow for expansion of the floating planks. The top of the t moulding covers this gap, but has to protrude slightly above the plane of the floor in order to do so.

Your comment made me re-watch my video --no metric here, just plain ole imperial (U.S.) system using inches.

Yikes --maybe I should pass along your comment to the manufacturer of this floating laminate floor so they can update their gap requirements, as they must be just as clueless as me. The base of the moulding is 1/2", I left a 1/4" gap on both sides to allow for movement of the floating planks (total gap of 1" between floors). Same concept as leaving 1/4" gap around the perimeter of the room or any other fixed object that is anchored to the subfloor.

What's a better alternative to this? I think these types of transitions strips are pretty common in the industry for floating floor systems.

@@HomeLifeLeisureDIYthere isn’t an alternative for flouting floors. Think a lot are misunderstanding that this isn’t a hardwood floor. The alternative is to not change direction in the door way and just run continuously through the home. But because of the pattern change there is no alternative because the floor needs to be able to expand or it will just buckle on a joint.

Honestly not as big an issue as you’d believe. More likely to trip on the threshold to your front door than the tiny transition. It has maybe an 1/8in exposed on the leading edge, most only 3/8in at the peak above the floor. The only people would really have issue are the elderly but for the majority you’d barely notice it even stepping directly on it.

Needs expansion joint it’s a flouting floor not a glue floor. It maybe an 1/8in above the floor on the low point of the transition.

Hah, I contemplated drilling/screwing, but seemed like overkill. I’ve found it’s pretty easy to pry the glued assembly from the concrete, and any dried residue scrapes off nicely.

@HomeLifeLeisureDIY not over kill to me, but I sort of see your point. As a installer I always go with the best way and a tube of adhesive is 10 bucks and a few anchors is 1.45 and are weather resistant. I Will admit I did do it your way once and got called back 3 weeks later. They have five kids and they were not kind to floors and less so to transitions. I anchored them every since. In my own home I do this for sure though.

@DevineInspiration-n6v yeah, this install is in a low traffic area, so glue should be plenty durable. For areas with more activity I’m sure mechanical fasteners will provide more longevity 🙂

Would the fasteners be visible? 🤮

Right on!

Thanks for the input! My opinion of this Skil saw comes after replacing a 15 year old Craftsman that was falling apart and a true safety hazard. While I don’t deal much with fine woodworking, this saw has exceeded all of my expectations for normal project-use around the house. Given that it’s often sold for <$300, I would expect there to be some value engineering with economical materials, but I’ve not experienced any adverse performance from these…yet (time will tell).

@HomeLifeLeisureDIY - also while poking around with this saw (while brand-new, no cuts made), I noticed the fence rolling function started being more greedy producing some grinding noise, and stating degrading very quickly. So before returning the saw back to the store, I decided to get to the bottom of it. I removed the fence and the rear fence gear (to decouple the front and back rake bars from each other and find the one which grinds) and detached the back rake bar from the saw to remove the rake from the rail it glides on. I found lots of aluminum shavings between the rail and the rake bar. The rake bar doesn't seem to be touched by either the human hand nor the machine after it was cut to length, so the rough edges were shaving the underlying rails surface. One piece of soft aluminum on another. So if you start having this type of issue - stop using the fence to avoid more damage and just disassemble and clean up those pieces with a small fine file or sandpaper. It looks like if it was done properly in the factory, that fence control unit could be decent.

"but not very functional" Learn to use it first.

@@Preokthe5 - learn to use what? The grinding like hell plastic gears of the blade lifter assembly or a pretend-to-be rack and pinion fence system powered by the same pair of plastic gears and an aluminum-on-aluminum sliding rails (I guess SKIL is not aware of the fact that where there is friction something has to give)? Or maybe those blade miter stoppers, which move as you are tightening them (I guess SKIL is not aware that all other brands use statically mounted eccentric rings to achieve the same result)? You can definitely "learn" how to deal with all these (introduced, BTW, as a result of a pure greed - the earlier versions of this exact saw had plastic inserts on the fence rails and a way to adjust even those cheap plastic gears) annoyances (as well as like one can learn how to comfortably have sex in a hammock), but why if there are other (yes, a bit more expensive) options on the market. Also, when it is not on sale, the price difference with other saws not having those flaws is marginal. The only thing I give SKIL is their integrated stand (very convenient feature) and the fact it can make full vertical cuts on "2x4" lumber.

Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!

Thanks for stopping by! We only have one pop-up style inflatable (Halloween), which I've not had to repair yet, so I'm not aware of the mechanisms used. I'd imagine that there's a secondary system of some sort that controls the pop-up aspect --maybe a second blower, or perhaps a timer with an air valve that allows air to be fed from the main blower (i.e., no second blower). My recommendation would be to unzip the inflatable and see if you can find the mechanism attached to the Santa piece. Is there another blower, electrical wiring, or just air tubing? Is there a control box attached to the main blower? Hopefully it's just a sticking air valve that can be re-lubricated with WD40. Good luck!

Sure, here’s the one I bought (AFF Link): amzn.to/3OLqN1Wa. Please make sure to double check the power rating of the old blower to the one being purchased 🙂

@@ChristisKing117 Great tip! I’ve had no issues with squareness, but always worth checking it during setup. Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped, thanks for watching!

Welcome! Thanks for the sub 😀

Thank you for watching and the kind words! Hope you enjoy your new saw --it was a gamechanger for me after upgrading from my old one 😀

Thanks for watching! I'm not too familiar with turntables, but have seen that there's a Pyle phono preamp that may allow you to use this receiver with a turntable.

I sure did, thanks! I need to stop measuring once and cutting twice 😂

Ah, I’ve never dared to perform a replacement with live wires. I wouldn’t trust myself to accidentally touch both conductors and get zapped 🫣

😁 probably not the smartest way to do it but the jolts never killed me. Just made me feel interesting conductive passages through my body 😂

Thanks for watching! This compressor has been a nice upgrade from my old one.

I’d assume the throat plates are interchangeable, but not 100% sure. Seems like Skil switched over to metal throat plates within the past year. Hopefully they are selling the metal throat plates separately for those looking to upgrade from plastic. Yes, I purchased my saw from Amazon.

Oops. Found the locking lever under the table!

Sorry, I may have skipped showing that on the video. Glad you found it 😀

Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching!

Yeah, I had marked out high/low spots before pouring, but didn't stick to plan during the pour. You'd think after using SLC for multiple other projects I'd have learned my lesson.

@@Gorphee I think it does. I only had a corner of the room that needed leveling, and I underestimated how much I needed during the first pour.