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I am not sure if they have a "fully charged" indicator, maybe the red light turns to green. They are bluetooth only. No other input at all.

I have two sets (2 pairs) of violins: one set is natural color, the other is black. On the black ones I used a 10 watt, 4 Ohm exciter and 5 uf caps. on the natural colored violins I used 5 watt exciters and 10 uf caps.

Before you scarp it, check the impedance of your speakers. Frequently inexpensive amps like these they "turn off" when too much power is drawn from the speakers, so I find using 8 or 6 Ohm speakers prevents this "cutting out". The "shutting off" might be caused by low (4 Ohm) impedance speakers. They should work with 4 ohms but sometimes they don't.

@henrydegroh2341 thanks, the speakers I were using were 6x9 car speakers mounted in speaker boxes, and they are in fact 4 ohm!! I'll try different speakers when I get home. I appreciate the help, thank you

I guess it's worth a try, but we also don't want to lower output in the high frequencies.

@@henrydegroh2341 Alloy wheel weights are very cheap, are easy to cut to weight, & have double-stick super-tape pre applied. I bet a single strip (~2oz) will be under $5, even free if you know a mechanic.

@@Iowa599 the back of 24 watt exciters I use have a tapped hole in them at the back, so you could attach it with a screw so it could be easily removed/changed.

@@henrydegroh2341 even better!

I bet it will have no effect on higher frequencies, because adding mass will lower the resonance frequency of the exciter, only. that is just a theory, though...adding mass to the cone of normal speakers (coax with the tweeter removed, superqlued oil cap cone ;) ) worked to avoid a subwoofer, but I also installed a 100hz low pass crossover.

No; as long as the guitar is in good condition it should be fine. If there are any cracks or anything like that they need to be glued solid. Guitars in general are durable and handled a lot, so they can handle DML speaker stresses fine.

Each panels uses a 4 Ohm exciter. If you use two on each side wired in series 8 Ohms will result. Then you could add two more panels to each side and wire the two pairs in parallel, going back to 4 Ohms. So yes, you can add more panels. Is this clear?

Well, that's difficult to say. Both sound very good. In a blind sound test one might be able to tell a difference, but does one sound better? that would be... subjective. The foam panels are extremely efficient (have high SPL sensitivity), so with equal power to them, the foam would be a bit louder.

I think you can get the specs from partsexpress here: www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1146--tymphany-sds-160f25pr01-08-spec-sheet.pdf Many woofers have a peak before they drop-off at the high end, like near 4000 Hz. This peak can be harsh, and require an inductor to pull down; pulling this peak down helps the woofer blend with the tweeter better, matching its loudness at the crossover frequency. My point is, this woofer does not have much of a peak before drop off, and since I am using it firing up, the off axis response is smooth (has no peak at the high end). I like the driver a lot, and it was not expensive.

@@henrydegroh2341 thanks, so if i use Tymphany BC25TG15-08 tweeters with these drivers what is the best cut off point? these tweeter i mentioned have frequency response of 1000khz to 20khz ... is crossover around 4000hz will be sufficient to kill the harshness??

@@professionaloverthinker-x If you don't use any inductor on the woofer, I would cross the tweeter over at between 5500 and 6000 Hz; if you are adding an inductor to the woofer, say that imposes -3 dB at 4000 Hz - crossing the tweeter nearer to 5000 would likely be a better fit.

Hi madmaxd1, regarding " the purpose of using different materials as acoustic ceiling tiles, is to obtained a much rounded & richer sound" I disagree with that: the purpose of using different materials, as stated by Tech Ing., was to - paraphrasing - "get frequency combs to overlap and thereby create a flatter response curve." if you mix foam and ceiling panels in an effort to do this it won't work because the foam panels are so much louder. This is why in a subsequent video, Tech Ing. used different amplifiers to power the foam and ceiling panels, sending low power to the foam, and higher power to the ceiling tiles so that their loudness's would be closer. I find this to be a bit silly. why work so hard to make a bad material (the ceiling tiles) be less bad? foam panels are better, honeycomb cardboard and end grain balsa is likely better than ceiling tiles. The density of the ceiling tiles is just too high. There are other ways go get the frequency combs to overlap in a positive way, using panel shape, and exciter location for example. But yes, the creative possibilities DML panels are quite inviting.

No, I didn't mean to say the guitars need to be protected from "pleasant" sounds, and after watching my post again, I don't know why you are asking that question. The guitars don't reproduce low frequencies well, thus low frequencies (below ~130 Hz) should not be sent to them. Thus a capacitor should be used in series between the amp and guitar to filter out low frequencies. A very low amount of smoothing was used, and tests were done in my basement, not some acoustically damped studio. the final sweep with the Dayton Audio amp I think is good considering the... acoustics of the room. And, the sound demo sounds great.

Thank you ;-)

When I tested it, I used the aux input, and I check one channel at a time; it appeared to be stereo, not mono. But I should perhaps double check that.

SPL = 89 dB @ 1W/m, power rating is 60 watts RMS I have them listed on facebook marketplace: facebook.com/marketplace/item/1081465423135871

In another video I compare these speakers to others in similar boxes; in this other video I believe I share some frequency sweeps, which showed good response out above 10,000 Hz. The bass and treble are set to flat in this video I think, so... crispness can be enhanced a bit with eq. The finish is I think a glossy spar varnish, like a marine varnish. I have a sailboat I use it one. The finish I prefer now uses hard wax oil.

The DML panels are very loud (high SPL) but the output drops off a bit at the higher frequencies, so although the highs are there and strong, they are not as loud as the mid-frequencies, thus yes, I do a very primitive EQ in the tests I did on these: which consisted of turning up the treble knob while keeping the bass know flat.

They sound excellent, similar to the panels, with very good dispersion (great off axis performance) and very wide frequency range. The major difference is the guitars have lower SPL (they are not as loud). the panels are like... 95 SPL sensitivity while the guitars are around 90 SPL. so panels are super efficient while the guitars are just very efficient. ;-)

Yes, I did try that (one foam tile in series with a ceiling tile) the "problem" is the foam is about 3 times louder, thus the ceiling tile contributes VERY little. you basically can't hear the ceiling tile because the foam is so much more efficient (louder). Why work hard to make something that works poorly work better? when you already have something that works WAY better?

Thanks for you comment and question. It is very unlikely I would use this speaker as a midrange; in my opinion this speaker sounds great and does not "scream", though I may not understand what you mean by scream.

yes martin, they were designed for the woofer of the left speaker to fire to the left (and the right to the right) so they are both firing "out", or away from center. But this is a guideline, not a rule. they can be switched so they fire in towards each other. I have read accounts from others who experimented with the placement of side firing speakers and in some rooms, firing "inward" worked better. This works because low frequencies are highly non-directional. so their volume does not attenuate off axis. it is common for example for a subwoofer to fire down, towards the floor.

​​@@henrydegroh2341 Thank you for the clarification. I currently play around with my new living room set up since I also have side firing towers for my home Cinema but sadly no Henry de Groh's 😁. I have 2 towers for the front and 2 for the surround. They are from acoustic research. But I think the model was only sold in Germany before the company vanished. Got them cheap back then that's why I took 4 🤭. Now since I got a new Marantz receiver to replace my over 20 year old Sony I must say the difference is spectacular good after the audyssey multi point measurements and it's auto adjustment. Finally their 25 cm side bass plays really well. They have a 10 cm bass reflex port at the rear not at the front. The front contains 2 mids and one silk high in a d'Apolito configuration rated at 180 watts RMS, 91 db sensitivity and 6 Ohms, 28 to 20khz. I btw have angled the speakers to have them point to the sweet spot of my couch. Not like in your video example setup with the 90 degree angle. I guess it also makes a difference for the bass reflection. The rears basically are cramped right onto the wall since I wanted to have them as far as possible from the listening position.

@@Martschy That's ... strange that they would put the port at the back. I would think having it front ported would... be more reliable. yes, playing around with speaker placement in the room can pay off; sounds like it did nicely for you ;-)

@@henrydegroh2341 I don't know but back then It was kind of more often seen that the ports had been placed at the backside. Currently you see more on the front for sure. Acoustic research ar 150 5000 is the speakers name.

Those AR speakers you have are super good. I have always been a fan of Acoustic Research. I like the MTM on the front, but I don't know why they are so far apart; literature says it's better if they are as close as possible.

@jeffkirk4761 I noticed the same thing about power. I want to build a DML set to act as central channel on my surround system for the voices. I'm wondering what would be best given I do have a subwoofer. Before reading your comment I though the best would be a 2'x4' ceiling tile with a 40w exciter in series with a 2'x2' polystyrene with a 25w. To achieve that "more balanced response" TI mentioned. It seems his 4 panel combination is overkill to get a good result. It's such a shame he did not run an REW test of the combined panels instead of playing us music... After your comment I'm wondering weather or not I should just used a smaller ceiling tile (for visual effect)

I ended up with this setup: Dayton Audio EX32EP2-4 Thrusters, FOAMULAR NGX 1 in. x 2 ft. x 2 ft. panels, Fosi Audio BT30D Amplifier, Infinity HTS-10 subwoofer. The panels are inside a light fabric “case” that my wife sewed together. We have them hooked to our TV. I am not an audiophile and rarely listen to music. I am so glad I did this. The realism is everything I expected. The only issue I have is that the exciters I got are heavier than I expected. Placed at the 3/5ths location, the panels don’t hang straight. The top is 2.5” away from the wall while the bottom is 3”. I think a small ceiling tile may have worked better. @@Turri_Moreira

They sound good because you built them to your specs. I wouldn't disregard the ceiling tiles. Your graph is telling you they need more power. I have a very similar fosi amp and i love it, but I dont think it can push the heavier tiles, but I'm also guessing 🤪 Thanks so much for posting this! Answered some questions I had and inspired me to order some parts 🙏

Yes, everyone with a zuma, who actually uses it, must have this problem. Glue: 3M Scotch-Weld 2216 B/A Gray.

it's ok. worth every penny paid for it? at $7 you should not expect much. but in this build, in what is basically an open cabinet, I was cool with using them. I do a lot of high end audio, so this is low-end, and it sounds great. MUCH better than the original. I review some better drivers this size in my other youtube videos.

In the video, I misspoke: The subwoofer sweep includes the panels. It is meant to show the response of the panels and the sub working together. The sub was off for the sweeps I show for the panels.

I have seen some applications where the person hung them up overhead in a cathedral ceiling area; but my tests were done with the panels rather close to the wall: one was about 2', the other at an angle to the wall, 3' away. their performance was similar. They are designed to be hung close to a wall, like next to your tv or something. some people have hung them in an open deep frame with rockwool sound absorbing insulation in the box to absorb most of the sound coming from the rear of the panel.

You have asked a very valid question.. I have started experimenting with these types of speakers after watching many how-to videos and can tell you there's a major difference in sound quality depending on proximity to the back wall.. What I can suggest is what I did, have a listener in the area where you would be listening from and another person move the speaker further away and closer while playing music. In this manner you can find the sweet spot where the interaction makes the best sound. Hope this helps!

What toxic microparticles are you talking about? These panels are 100% non toxic (extruded) polystyrene. And how would it "release" any microparticles do you reckon?!? Please don't spread misinformation. We already have so many toxins in and around us or in our food, to worry about.

Hi, sorry no. but I do recall finding a really great website selling vintage needles and cartridges, but you have to refind that on your own. Personally I would recommend updating it with a modern turntable; but if you want to play 78's mine worked great and I hope yours will too.

I don't have any data on how the thickness affects performance. This material is not very strong. My panels are larger than some are building. If your making large panels (greater than 2 ft x 2 ft) I would go thicker. Maybe thinner would work better when building smaller panels.