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- Видео 19
- Просмотров 106 431
BackYardFoundry
США
Добавлен 22 апр 2021
Anything to do with metal, it will end up on the channel. Casting, melting, forging, the sky is the limit. From thermite, to bronze swords. Informational videos about the hobby as well as entertainment videos can be found here.
Turning Scrap Copper into a Beautiful Necklace
I melt down some scrap copper and cast it into a cross, then polish it into a necklace.
Matthew 25:40
Music by Bensound.com/free-music-for-videos
License code: BVX0GM1GTYW7YIZM
Matthew 25:40
Music by Bensound.com/free-music-for-videos
License code: BVX0GM1GTYW7YIZM
Просмотров: 122
Видео
Large Electric Motor Meltdown (Part 2): Copper Melt
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.5 месяцев назад
In this video I melt the copper that I extracted in my previous video.
Large Electric Motor Meltdown (Part 1): Aluminum Melt
Просмотров 8128 месяцев назад
In this video I melt a broken electric motor and cast its aluminum into ingots. How much aluminum will I get? Music by: www.bensound.com/free-music-for-videos License code: LGJKU7ZO6LPRIH9N Music by www.bensound.com/free-music-for-videos License code: Y5K3OEUL2PXEJR4A
How to Harden Aluminum Casts [ 4 Methods ]
Просмотров 5 тыс.Год назад
I discuss techniques that can be used for hardening and strengthening any cast aluminum product. Work hardening, precipitation hardening, and homogenizing are the three main ways this is done and I discuss them all. Music: bensound.com License code: E4IRSTVYXNMKHGMK
Was Rebuilding My Forge Worth It? [ Forge Test ]
Просмотров 137Год назад
In a previous video I remodeled my forge. In this video I am testing if the new design is anymore thermally efficient.
Why You Should Coat Your Kaowool Forge [ And How To Do It ]
Просмотров 6 тыс.Год назад
Kaowool is often used as insulation for a forge. It is a great material but can be dangerous if precautions are not taken. That is why I explain some of the potential health effects of Kaowool, and how to mitigate them. Music by Bensound.com
Upgrading My TKOR Mini Metal Foundry
Просмотров 310Год назад
When I saw Grant Thompson's Mini Forge seven years ago I was inspired to make one my self. After having used his model for about a year now, I have some much needed improvements that should be made to the forge.
Pewter: The Easiest Metal to Cast [METAL MELT]
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.2 года назад
I melt down many weeks worth of thrift store pewter finds. Pewter is a great metal to have on hand for your casting needs, as it has a low melting point and is very easy to cast.
Will Putting Thermite in a Running Engine Melt It?
Просмотров 5552 года назад
Will thermite ignite if ran through an engine? If it does, will it melt the engine from the inside? Or perhaps cause the engine to seize? That is what I am going to find out.
Refining Iron Metal from Pyrite
Просмотров 10 тыс.2 года назад
In this video I show the process I used to extract iron from pyrite (iron sulphide). This is a simple but little known process to refine pyrite. If you haven't already it would mean a lot to me if you would like and subscribe. Music: www.bensound.com
Save Hundreds of Dollars with these Homemade Crucible Lifting Tongs [ No Welding ]
Просмотров 2 тыс.2 года назад
In this video I show how you can save money by making your own crucible lifting tongs at home. This is a weld free tutorial and thus accessible to most. From this video you will see what I used for my tongs and how to easily make your own. Crucible lifting tongs are super important safety devices for any foundry working with molten metal. They can be quite expensive however. But that is not a p...
How to Harden Bronze Casts [ 3 Ways ]
Просмотров 3,9 тыс.2 года назад
If you want stronger casts then this video is for you. In this video I am going to show you 3 different ways to harden your metal casts. Metallurgy can be rather complex so in this video I make it simple, so all backyard smiths can make strong casts. From blades to gears and everything in between. First I describe work hardening and how to perform it. Then I move into metal quenching, and finis...
Engine Destruction? Will Gallium Destroy a Running Engine?
Просмотров 26 тыс.2 года назад
In this video I test if putting liquid gallium in the carburetor of a running engine will cause it to break.
Large Scrap Aluminum Metal Melt - Metal Melt ASMR
Просмотров 8 тыс.2 года назад
In this video I melt down window aluminum and pull my largest haul yet.
Pouring Molten Aluminum into a Pumpkin
Просмотров 3052 года назад
In this fun halloween video, I am "Pouring Molten Aluminum into a Pumpkin" Music: www.bensound.com
Copper Pipe Metal Melt and Polish ASMR
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.2 года назад
Copper Pipe Metal Melt and Polish ASMR
Minibike Engine Melt: Metal Melt ASMR
Просмотров 9902 года назад
Minibike Engine Melt: Metal Melt ASMR
I like the end product. You have grown your skills since beginning your channel. Keep it up.
Excellent video. What a lucky hypothetical girlfriend
Have you ever used a waste oil burner in a 55 gall drum to melt cans put a hole in the bottom for the metal to pour out waste oil will melt it engine blocks in 5 minutes that are made of aluminum once it hits temp and that takes about 15 to 20 minutes I'd like to see someone melting barrels of cans in one I'm planing to build one I saw some that use fire bricks in the bottom and all the flag is caught by the fire bricks as the metal runs down around them I'm going to use an old 100 pound propane tank when I build my melting furnace it don't need insulation on the drum the burner is so hot
Hello How much does that engine cost? Thanks.
I luckily got it for free, I am not quite sure what it would cost to buy.
I love this editing style mate!
I appreciate it! Im still working on my style so input is greatly appreciated.
I would guess that the orange tent of the ignots is from the orange sticker that was left on the bottom of one of the larger items he melted. It may have been the last item he put in. I was wondering why he didn't remove that orange sticker. I would remove any and all stickers, etc., for purity.
I am not a metallurgist, but my reasoning was 1.) the sticker will simply turn to carbon and would be some more slag 2.) or perhaps the carbon does alloy with the pewter but is a small enough amount I wasn't too concerned about it. Truthfully I am not 100% sure if it affects it or not.
Отличные слитки получились из посуды. Кажется мастер идиот.
Looks like it has a good amount of bismut inside, not a pure tin
What makes you think that?
Use the gallium as the lubricant instead of oil.
I intend to redo this at some point in the future with much more gallium and incorporating the suggestions from my comments!
Currently studying Material Science in my final year Physics degree, this has helped and made a lot of sense especially when you talked about Work hardening. Now the theory makes sense with practical
Glad I could be of assistance! Id love to hear your input on future videos, as I am studying chemistry, not material science.
What would hsve happened if you had put it directly into the engine oil and ran it ???
It is likely the oil would protect the engine from harm, but I dont know for sure and will test this in a future video.
Oil will protect the aluminum.
Maybe putting the gal in the coolant circuit would be more effective.
This particular motor is air cooled, It would be very cool to try this experiment with a water cooled motor though!
I see why it's called blacksmithing
Great vid. Sand paper the the top or drill small holes and do it again.!!!🎉
I hope to redo this video at some point and incorporate viewer suggestions so I appreciate the idea!
So i was going to use some refractory cement, but my biggest gripe with it is, i dont want the weight of what basically equates to a big block of loose cement wearing down the ceramic through movement. Using a thicker layer of cement of course
So far I havent noticed any damage or change to the ceramic after having put the cement on. I did rigidize it, so I am not sure how non rigidized wool world work.
I would think of you out the gallium in the oil let it run the gallium will melt and mix with the oil leaving little gallium crystals all over the place when it cools. Then starting the engine cold might scratch the surfaces it is in contact with causing it to start reacting then leave the engine a few days and try to start it again.
I will definitely incorporate this idea in the sequel video!
I’m impressed! I thought the engine would fail, with the piston rings chewing the cylinder to hell. Could you do it again by just mixing the gallium into the fuel?
I plan to redo this video in the future using viewer suggestions, though given that gallium is much denser than the fuel I am not sure the carberator would be able to suck up the gallium. I will have to test that and see!
Rod = round Bar = flat* Forge = typically used for knife making, hobbyist sizes are smaller than furnaces and aren’t designed to melt metals, only heat them for forging, often with hammer and anvil Furnace = used to melt metal by heating it in a crucible* Foundry = where the furnace, molds, casting sand, crucibles live, and where metal pouring/casting etc takes place *what is seen in the video - in this case, a furnace is used to heat steel so one could argue that makes it a forge
Good video I think you need some music tho. Disco inferno would be a good choice.
I am still trying to find my style so I appreciate all the input! I have music in some of my videos and not in others, I haven't decided which I like more.
Very nice video. Needs some music. I suggest "disco inferno" burn baby burn :) Anyway, I wonder if you could produce less slag or copper oxide during the remelting to obtain a better yield using various fluxes, nitrogen atmosphere furnace, alumina or zirconia (zircon) crucibles? Also, it would be fun to see various you create various alloya the copper with different metals and ratios (tin, zinc, magnesium, lead, gold, silver, antimony, germanium, bismuth). Then analyze the alloys in various states of crystallization (e.g annealed, work hardened, aged, tempered, solution treated, homogenized) then measure hardness, corrosion resistance (Gibbs equations), ductility, conductivity, ect. :)
I'm pretty sure precipitation hardening is an other word for quench hardening. Rather, quenching precipitated the dissolved alloying elements to form martensite and other structures. I make knife blades from hardenable bronze. I forge the blades by hand, and temper them on the fire. It's important to note that on a lot of aluminum bronzes for exemple, the hardness doesn't really come from the quenching process (the bronze doesn't harden much after quench) but from the decomposition of the martensite, aka tempering / aging. However tempering aluminum bronze is still pretty unexplored, and even the latest research papers don't give very precise processes. So i personally had to practice and find for myself a method.
I appreciate the input! I am still just a hobbyist so I try to convey the information as best as possible, but mistakes and missing information is definitely possible.
I'm sorry, but precipitation is far from quenching, whereas the latter involves rapid cooling of heated metal. Precipitation is also known as age hardening, which involves slow cooling at room temp (i prefer warmer at 30 degrees celsius), which instead of annealing that happens to steel, in bronze metals it actually increases hardness and strength, and more superior to work hardening.
@@blueknyght923 thanks for the precision ! Precipitation hardening refers to the formation out of solution of some kind of hard structure (like martensite), and indeed i've seen that it was linked to heating up alloys, but as you said, steel doesn't need to be heated up, it rather needs to be cooled down. However i've seen that high alloyed steels do précipitation harden, around 500C, if you quench it first
it just occurred to me that the fabled metal of Atlantis was tempered brass. normally bronze is better but i think hardening brass might be how we got the idea for forging
I am not aware of this, I will have to look into it. Thanks for sharing!
Spoiler: the answer is no. Just sell em to the scrapper. No melting necessary.
Subscribed because of the 8-bit avatar art work.... and the great content.
Haha yeah I am not a great artist! But 8-bit aint too hard.
is a rigidizer absolutely needed?
If you are going to coat the wool with a layer of cement or another compound I would recommend it cause it gives extra structure to the cement. But I used the forge for a while with un-hardened wool and it works just fine. (if potentially more dangerous)
next time no music thx
I will keep this in mind! I am still trying to find a style I like so I appreciate your input.
I'd guess the reason the gallium didn't eat the aluminum is the coating of soot. Even a thin layer of oxidation can protect against the reaction of galium from what I've seen in videos. Often people have to scratch up the surface to start the reaction if the metal isn't freshly cleaned beforehand.
Yeah, I was worried that may be the case, I was kinda hoping that since it is an old engine the friction would have worn the oxides away enough for it to work.
'i should call her'
I thought it would foul the plug.
I thought so too but surprisingly not too bad!
Bud take the head back off, scrape a layer off the piston, and bead up the gallium on that location! Test every 5 to 10 min youll get a result!
I plan to try this again in the future (not in the winter again) and will do the concept justice. So I appreciate all the ideas!
Plot Twist! Somebody sold Mercury to him instead of gallium! Dund dun Dahh.... and he been handling it...☠️
I hope not tho!
My backyard is now an EPA super fund site
Need to show a video on melting down that copper wire. That is where the big money is.
That has been in the works for a while, got busy with school. It is uploaded now though.
Best vid yet
There we go this’ll bring in the VIEWS
What gave you this idea to test if gallium will destroy an engine? Did you hear someone mention something about it? Just wondering what prompted your curiosity.
Honestly I bought some gallium cause its cool, and was sitting in my garage and looked at this engine, and it came to me. I had to know haha!
If you're going to melt down cans for profit, you're better off using molds for jewelry or decoration. You could sell a 2in crucifix, for example, for about $7 profit after polishing it.
This is honestly the best way to make some money doing it. I couldn't agree more!
Would be nice if you listed in the description all of the equipment used, the costs of it, when applicable, and links to where you bought items you had to purchase. Thank you for considering doing this in your future.
I will try and mention it in the future, but alot of the stuff I have sitting around so it was more or less free. The gallium from the video; I don't remember where I bought it from (amazon maybe) but it was about 20-30$
@@backyardfoundry Thank you 👍 🧓
Of course, do Ingots normally sell for a decent price, say how much money would I receive for an Ingot that was 10kg?
I havent heard from my local scrap yards yet how they feel about the ingots, but I have had other viewers mention that some scrap yards would prefer the cans as compared to ingots. Its best to check with your local scrap yard.
I think you might want to temper the wood first
Probably a good idea! I copied it exactly from what I saw in the show.
great video
Thanks I appreciate it!
Hah. I have been wanting to do this for 20 years! Thank you Thank You. I keep suggesting to do this very motor vs gallium experiment to the Project Farm yt channel for several years now - but no luck yet! Really love that you did this. I suspected it would be hard getting the gallium to take to the aluminum. I have seen people struggle to it only working on a very fresh scratch. Again - Huge thanks for trying this!
I bet project farm would do this concept justice! I want to redo this video at some point in the future and really try everything to get the motor to fail.
@@backyardfoundry 2024!
There's no garbage service where I live, and I have an energy drink addiction. The cans add up quickly and by the time there's theres so many that you have to do something about them, the raccoons have destroyed the bag for some reason and putting them in the car isn't an option. Touching each one is necessary one way or another. I'm considering melting them, if only to learn a new skill and solve the problem
Rinse the cans out with water after you are done with them. The sweet smell of the syrup is what brings raccoons and wasps or yellow jackets to them. I've tried it both ways and have dealt with far less pests since I started rinsing.
What fanofmetal said would work fine if you just want to get rid of the cans. Otherwise making an aluminum foundry is pretty easy due to the low melting point and, in my opinion quite fun! Just be safe.
Explanation in easy terms for beginners: Steel hardening: Heating it will change the inner structure from one state to an other (cubed lettice structure will change inside) --> suddenly quenching it will cool the steel rapidly down without giving it´s inner structure enough time to change back again too it´s normal room temp state. This creating inner stress and making it harder. To release the stress yo ucan heat up the material again to about 500°C and let it cool down slowly which will change some but not all structure and release acess stress thus making the material still hard but not brittle. Aluminium hardening: Heating it will relax the material and alloy components like copper can move freely (495°C-505°C with the help of a candle you can reach this temp without melting the part), all the alloy contents will be the same roughly everywhere within the metal --> quenching it will not change that, however the metal structure will now start to change at room temp. The alloys want to create small islands and will clump together and thus hardening the material You will be able to notice a difference already after minutes. It´s full strength will be reached in about 4 days. You can speed up the process by warming the part, simply put it in an oven at 100°C or so for a while. The colder the temp the less the atoms can move. In aircraft design the metal will be cooled down to below freezing ca. -20°C, to prevent it from hardening too much before it can be riveted.
You should put it around the sparkplug and into the oil. So its not out in a milisecond
I plan to redo this video at some point and will definitely be adding more gallium to the whole thing and making many improvements so thank you for the ideas!
precipitation hardening isn't age hardening, they are both different steps in the actual hardening. Basically it's like steel, but the opposite. when you quench steel it hardens, and you heat it up to disperse the martensite and have a more souple and flexible structure, but in a lot of non ferrous metals, quenching won't really harden the metal (quenching is precipitation hardening btw, beacause the alloying elements are expelled from the solution and form the martensite), but then heating it back up decomposes the martensite, and oddly enough, it's the decomposed martensite that actually becomes harder and stronger.
technically correct however AL does not create any martensite. It´s a little different in AL.
@@sierraecho884 oh okay i'm mostly working with aluminum nickel bronze, and they make martensite
@@jeanladoire4141 Probably because there trace amounts of Fe as well. What I found online is this: " ...The CuAlNiFe group reacts in a similar manner to alloyed tool steels in respect to heat treatment procedures with martensite being formed when components are water quenched from elevated temperatures within a typical range 900-1050ºC. As with steels, the nickel aluminium bronze once quenched can be tempered to improve ductility whilst still retaining high tensile strength and hardnes..." generally speaking Al does not do therefore it hardens by age hardening primarily. What parts do you make out of this alloy ? What´s it used for ? If I may ask.
@@sierraecho884 i indeed work with cualnife, cual10ni5fe4 mainly, and it's all three metals that form different crystals that constitute the martensite, basically they fall out from solution and form the actual martensite (basically copper/iron crystals, copper/aluminum and copper/nickel). I'm a bladesmith, and i forge blades from cual bronze. It doesn't make very hard blades, actually they are both softer than steel, and more brittle, beacause i'm pushing the temper to its hardest to try to get a few more rockwells from it (i'm at about 30 i'd say, tho i've never measured it accurately). However it does make beautiful golden/brown blades that don't rust. It also holds a shaving sharp edge half decently, but i only make table knives or low intensity use blades from it (mainly for the esthetics, not the performance of course). I'd use a san mai of martensitic stainless steel and a core of very high carbon steel for the edge for cooking knives with actually good performance. But don't underestimate non metals for blades, more humans have died under the blows of bronze blades than under steel or bullets. It will hold an edge, just not for that long, and it needs frequent honing on a stone.
@@jeanladoire4141 I see, nice. Very interesting. You surely meant non ferrous metals. Those were THE weapons in bronze age. Of course those are dangerous.
How long does a propane tank last using these?
For melting aluminum a tank will last a long while. I spent 4-5 hours on this video alone and had a good amount of gas left. For melting something like copper since you need the gas jet at a higher pressure you go through much more gas. I went through a whole tank for my most recent video.
I didn't think it was going to start that second time.
This engine surprised me with how resiliant it was. If you want to see its final start, check out the video when I put thermite through it.
I put a dislike because you called it a forge when you use it to melt metal. You melt metal in furnace and the place you melt and cast it is a foundry. A forge is a facility for shaping hot metal heated in a furnace usually by hammering it to the desired shape. The furnace or fire as we called them is not the forge. (I workd at a forgemaster in Sheffield UK)
Fair enough. I gotta dig deeper into my wording haha.
You could do all 3 with this. Flip it on its side and put a long firebrick in - it’s a forge. On its bottom with a crucible - it’s a foundary/furnace.
Thanks for puttin this together. This will be a lot safer than the method I've been using!