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It all depends on the controller you are using and its limits. For example my stock controller on my Lectric is rated at 48V which means I need a 48v battery. A 48v battery fully charged is 54.6v. I opened up the controller and read the specifications on the internal components which most if not all read 60v. I do run a 52v battery with stock components on my Lectric without issues because a 52v battery fully charged does not exceed 60v. I couldn’t run a 72v battery because I would exceed the 60v rating on my controller components which would burn them out.

@juanescorza2984 thank you very much I appreciate the information. Thanks for your help

If you didn’t understand the process with this video I strongly suggest you do not attempt adding dual batteries yourself. Have someone with the very basic knowledge on DC voltage wiring do the work for you.

You are right m. It does not fit inside the controller compartment. It’s also not recommended to install it inside the compartment. The blender needs airflow for cooling. I recommend you install it where there’s airflow. Not inside the controller compartment.

Thank you. Adding a toggle switch won't hurt anything but you don't need one. Adding a toggle switch will also add more clutter to your bike. If you ever need to remove the second battery you can just unplug it from the parallel connector and run the single stock battery. The parallel battery blender can run just one battery without issues. I do recommend running both batteries simultaneously. It will maximize your overall range even more vs running them single. The distribution of available power will be shared by more than twice as many cells. This will stress your cells less extending the overall battery pack lifecycle. You will also notice your bike a little more powerful at takeoff and struggle less on hills. You're going to love the way your bike performs running dual batteries. When you charge your batteries you can leave your ignition key on and everything plugged in. Just charge them without any worries.

I appreciate the quick reply back. As soon as I finish the installation, I'll let you know how it went. By the way, when you usually do your charging, do you leave the batteries on the bike and charge them on the bike? That's a personal preference? I did receive another charger when I purchased the external. Thanks again

@@dlet90210 I always leave then on the bike and plugged in. I also have the key in the "ON" position. I just plug the chargers to each battery at the same time and let them charge. If for some reason the batteries are not finished charging and I have to ride I just ride. The parallel connector takes care of balancing the different state of charge from both batteries.

Yes. Matthew @ EAW got the idea from these videos. The only difference is the battery discharge balancer they use. You have to stick with a 48V 2nd battery. All else is basically the same. Their kit is plug and play and no need to fabricate your wiring. Good luck.

They will charge independent with their own charger. There is a blender called the Date-X that has a charging option to charge both batteries but be aware that it will take twice as long.

I have it mounted to the rear rack. It can be mounted where the bike lock mounts. I tried putting inside the controller compartment but it would not fit. I have now upgraded to Electromotive Mods FBC and this particular one need airflow so beat to have it exposes to airflow.

Only with the DateX-2 blender with charging option. I do not know of any other battery blender that offers that option.

They have to be charged separately.

Can internal XP 2.0 be wired in parallel with 48volt 20amp external battery pack, and not have to "switch" between them? if not.. can u provide a link to the shunt part, if needed ... thank u

@@frankcervi611 yes you can. I do recommend a battery discharge balancer to avoid any potential damage to your batteries. DO NOT just wire then in parallel without a discharge balancer.

@@frankcervi611 using a battery discharge balancer like I did in the video you always leave them plugged in and you can have different state of charge. The discharge balancer takes care of balancing then. No need for isolation switches or anything. Just set it and forget it.

You cannot fit any blender into the battery compartment there's just not enough space. The "controller" compartment does have enough space for some balancers like Date-X blender or the cheaper Amazon blender but the Bolton blender does not fit into the regular XP but maybe it will on the ST. Some blenders like Electromotive Mods FBC which I am using now need airflow for cooling therefore not recommended to be inside the compartment without airflow.

Yeas absolutely. Capacity doesn't matter. You can add a 50Ah if you want. Just make sure they are both 48v.

This is also a good product. This one gives you 1+ miles extra range. Polar bear blender made in California. I believe he does ship to Canada. facebook.com/marketplace/item/1009541233241252/

I just spoke to Ibrahim at Polar Bear and he does ship to Canada.

Yes it will work on the Lite and any bike. You just have to use the right connectors for the controller, 2nd battery and blending device you'll be using. Blending devices I recommend are Electromotive Mods FBC and I am now running Polar bear blending device. These device helps increase my range a couple more miles vs Electromotive Mods FBC. . Here is the link. facebook.com/marketplace/item/1009541233241252/ Either blending device you decide on using please let them know I recommended you. I don't get a commission. I just like to help small American businesses.

@@juanescorza2984 what 2nd battery do you recommend for the lite ? Another 300watt?

@@humbertoreza4200 the watt rating is just for what the battery can handle. You can go with a 2000W battery if you wish. The Ah which is the capacity matters for range. The higher the Ah rating the more range you'll get. So being a Lite where did you want to mount you're spare battery? Check this link out to show you where I mounted my battery. facebook.com/groups/3281545675504521/permalink/3283599485299140/ If this is the way you'll go then you'll have to measure the length of the center beam on top of your stock battery to find one that will fit and still have enough clearance to fold and allow the stem to turn freely due the folding latch. If you will carry it in the rear rack than for the price the 48V CAO MM 20AH battery from eBay is very popular. Determining where you'll mount the battery will determine what type of battery is best.

@@juanescorza2984 awesome thank you so much for the information. Your a beast at this. I appreciate it

What's up Josh. Yes you can use the Lectric spare battery. You have to make a box with connections similar to Sonny Whitehurst ruclips.net/video/hIS3FRVQHXc/видео.html You can even incorporate the blending device inside the box. If you don't find Electromotive Mods FBC in stock I recommend this device. It works good too. Ibrahim does some quality work. facebook.com/marketplace/item/1009541233241252/ Either device you decide to get please mention I recommended you. I don't get a commission at all. I just like to help small American businesses. I recommend a battery blending device though. Don't just wire then in parallel without one.

48v CAO MM 20Ah from eBay is a popular one. You'll have to carry it inside a bag on the rear rack. www.ebay.com/itm/224234158431?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IZChHuRfQ0y&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=eeqvE2d2T7O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is also a good battery. Joyisi 36V 48V 52V Ebike Battery 10Ah/13Ah/15Ah/19Ah Ebike Lithium Battery for 250W 500W 750W 1000W 1500W Electric Bicycles Motor and Bike Motor Conversion Kit a.co/d/bRfzRi7 You can mount it on top of the stock battery. It's 48v 19 Ah here is a link on how I mounted this type of battery on my bike. facebook.com/groups/3281545675504521/permalink/3283599485299140/

If you don't find Electromotive Mods FBC in stock. This is also a great battery blender facebook.com/marketplace/item/1009541233241252/ Whichever blender you go with FBC or Ibrahim's please let them know I recommended you. I don't get a commission just trying to help a small business. They are both made in USA.

Thank you! I appreciate you for sure! I'll be emailing to get some wires done, if you still make them. Im gonna go check out all the links. Thanks again

Question Juan, is a Blackbird spare battery 52v/16ah okay to use as a second battery?

Thank you! Yes there's plenty in the market with USB charging port. If I was to buy another battery I would go for this 19Ah. I've never owned one so can't review on it's quality. Joyisi 36V 48V 52V Ebike Battery 10Ah/13Ah/15Ah/19Ah Ebike Lithium Battery for 250W 500W 750W 1000W 1500W Electric Bicycles Motor and Bike Motor Conversion Kit a.co/d/8d3S36Y

I have also mounted my battery on the center beam on top of the stock battery. Check out this link to see how I did it. m.facebook.com/groups/3281545675504521/permalink/3283599485299140/

The blending devices are protected internally and will fail before any damage is caused to any electrical components. Using a blending device is the only failsafe way and leaves no room for human error when running multiple batteries. A/B switch works but you have to keep up with your ignition key being in the ON/OFF position before you toggle the switch. If you happen to not keep track of it you can damage your batteries or electrical components. Why take the chance to damage $300-$600 worth of batteries. Batteries are the most expensive item in your bike. There's also advantages in running batteries simultaneously vs running them individually. Less stress on cells extending battery packs overall life cycle. Power distribution is shared by almost three times more cells vs stock battery. Less voltage sag. Your bike will have more available power and it will feel like a different bike. Quicker acceleration and will struggle less on hills. I have almost 2k miles in my bike running Electromotive Mods FBC and runs awesome. I never have the worry in the back of my mind to keep up with ignition key or battery voltages. Just set it, forget it and enjoy. One less thing cluttering my mind. Happy riding.

Why compromise your batteries or electrical components because you didn't do it right and spent $60-$90 more depending on which device you use. I don't trust the Amazon or eBay devices. Always go with products from reputable manufactures. Date-DX, Bolton ebikes or Electromotive Mods are great proven products with good warranty.

​@@juanescorza2984 Very true. I have a FBC HE-3X and it is the best purchase I've ever made for my bike. Now I can do long range deliveries without having to worry about battery life. And the best part is I can write it off on my tax. My only problem is that my display doesn't show the right percentage for both my batteries. Not a FBC problem but a bike manufacturer problem. Other than that, best 100 dollars ever spent in 2023.

It fits just fine with room to spare.

My stock battery has 39 cells. I added a 14Ah battery which has 65 cells. The available power to the motor is now being distributed by 104 cells. This decreases voltage sag by a lot. The bike accelerates quicker, it struggles less on hills and feels more powerful all the way around. It also stresses the cells less increasing overall battery life expectancy and also increases overall range vs running your batteries individually.

It also leaves no room for error running a blending device. If somehow you happen to loose track of your isolator switch and battery ignition position and happen to make a connection between both unbalanced batteries you could potentially damage your batteries and even cause thermal runaway which is an explosion or fire. This is the safest way to run two batteries.

@@juanescorza2984 I'm in no rush I crashed my last bike 20 mph is plenty fast enough 🤕

@@gumballbreath9818 It does not make your bike faster. The speed is limited by controller. The bike does accelerate quicker but will stop assisting at programmed speed. You'll just feel your bike different with the added available power from all the extra cells. When you're a leisure rider these factors might not matter but when you're a commuter like myself they come in quite handy. It's safer on city roads keeping up with traffic than have some inpatient careless driver try to pass you and run you over.

@@gumballbreath9818 I've had my bike at 38.7 mph on a 20% incline going downhill. I have to admit it wasn't the safest thing I've done. Lol

I actually bought it new from eBay for $185.00. I got really lucky. The seller received two batteries by mistake with her bike from HPC and they told her to keep it so she decided to sell it. hpcbikes.com/products/48v-14-ah-usa-made-high-performance-hard-case-battery-system

I use them for my Tactacam 5.0 and my COAST HP7R flashlight . Here is a link to them. COSOOS 2 Pack Flashlight Mount Holder, Universal Bicycle Led Light Mounting Holder 360° Rotation Clip Clamp for Flashlight, Cycling, Riding a.co/d/bcwd3Gh

Did you receive your bike yet?

@@chrisgreenley5927 yes I did. I have had it about three weeks already. 82 miles later, and very satisfied with it. I have made a few videos about it. Thanks for asking 🙂. Have a great week.

Hi Kate. I'm in TX. My IG is i.will.fix.it

How are you? Please send me an email to discuss your setup. DNXServo@gmail.com

Remember that running your batteries together will increase your range even more vs running then individually. You'll also stress the batteries less because you are using more than twice the amount of cells sharing the power distribution. Your bike will feel totally different also due to the overall reduced voltage sag. It will not give you more speed because that is limited by controller but you will feel the bike stronger going up hills and experience slightly quicker acceleration.

Thanks @@juanescorza2984! Started experimenting. Some inadvertently. Turned the key off at a stop for lunch. Forgot to turn it back on and drove back on new battery. Did a 17 mile run definitely did not lag toward end, as it used to, at about 9 miles. Monitored amps and controller max at 19 amps. Motoring up hills or accellerating. My driving is largely accellerating or stopping. I don't like to pass at speed on the trails. That surely uses up battery. Bike is a lot of fun. About 120 miles in 11 days. Thanks so much for your videos. I will tire out before my batteries do! Am going to try real distance

@@MrSdmckenna have fun. If you're using a blending device like the Bolton or FBC device you don't ever have to worry about battery charge levels. If you wired it just in parallel without a blending device please be careful. Happy riding!

Hi Luis . Most of the links for components will under video description on this link ruclips.net/video/Bycmpm1ZzSM/видео.html Connectors from Amazon or eBay.

Absolutely. You can run up to 4 batteries. You would need 50amp quad FBC from Electromotive Mods. Here is the link. www.electromotivemods.com/shop/p/s1fmuuaawo86hdw5gduhknspnoks37

@@juanescorza2984 one last question! Does your bike’s acceleration and top speed also increase?? Is that something you change In the settings to go faster??

@@rocrocky1668 You will experience quicker acceleration and more available power at all times specially going uphills. It will not make your bike faster. Top speed is limited to 28mph with PAS-5 and class three unlocked. Top speed is limited by controller which controls watts and amps delivered to motor.

You will also experience a lot less voltage sag.

That's awesome. There is added benefits in running them simultaneously over individually. Your distribution of power will be shared by more than twice the cells vs running single batteries. This stresses the cells a lot less and extends the overall life expectancy of your batteries. It also increases your overall range over running them individually.. You will also have a lot less voltage sag and will experience quicker acceleration, more available power specially going up hills. Your bike will feel stronger.

@@juanescorza2984 I thought about doing that, but I like to see what each battery is doing by itself. I know the new XP Premium has a dual battery which does what you showed. I have the new XP Premium bike on the order because I like the mid-drive motor versus the rear hub motor.

@@rolandgadue4351 Congratulations on your purchase. I hope you enjoy the XPremium it looks very nice.

You want to run a Lectric XP spare battery? You'd have to make a box similar to Sonny Whitehurst. Here is the link to his video.

ruclips.net/video/hIS3FRVQHXc/видео.html

Thanks Jaun....A big help with your extremely helpful videos!

@@tedmallen3139 No worries. If you have any further questions you can always reach out. My email is under video description.

@@juanescorza2984 Thank you, Juan. I have noted and will stay in touch. And I really appreciate the huge help and info you have provided.

There's a limiter on your bike controller. There's no limiter on the battery blender. Bolton E-bikes parallel battery blender can handle up to 30amps but does not limit the amps. Amps are limited by bike controller. Electromotive FBC can handle 50amps or they have an option for a 90amp one.

@@juanescorza2984 thx a lot😎😎😎

Yes!!

@@juanescorza2984 thanks man I'm gonna do it I need more range

Good luck. If you don't have the Bolton E-bikes parallel connector it's out of stock for 3-4 months. I have found a great substitute and it's made in Arizona USA. I'm running it in my bike now. The only difference is it takes Xt60 connectors instead of XT90. Everything else is just like the videos. Here is the link.

www.electromotivemods.com/shop/p/s1fmuuaawo86hdw5gduhknspnoks37

Thank you Juan. Which one should I get. There’s 4 or 5 listed.

@@georgeharvey3062 50Amp dual is good enough for Lectric. I don't think he has blemished ones in stock which are $60 so the $80 dual 50Amp will do. But if he does have a $60 blemished one then go for that one. It'll just be a small imperfection but he gives you warranty.

@@georgeharvey3062 I don't get a commission but in the comments let him know I recommended you. TIA