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Thank for sharing

Thank you for this!

The diagram shows the plate going before the last spring. The company needs to fix that before they kill someone

You have blow by. You have rebuild the motor or get another motor

Confused. That package shows the plate fitting on before the last spring & nut. But you put the plate on after the spring. Why?

This video save me money 💰

Very helpful. Need to replace another piece on 2009 Chevy Cobalt 🤦🏽‍♀️ Great car but freakin A! Always something going on with it

Thanks. Sometimes the simplest of things 🤪

Thanks for the information. You made the installation super simple and I was able to follow your steps to a tee and do it myself 🙏 😊

Mine, symptoms were, running rough and blowing oil out the exhaust. It was seeping a little oil under the shrouds and collected crud blocking airflow cooling the left cylinder. Overheated. Melted the valve guide, stuck the exhaust valve, bent the valve, smacking the piston, bent the pushrod, and of course the valve guide slid into the combustion chamber as far as the valve would allow it. And warped the head. I bought a used head. Cleaned it up. Straightened the pushrods, lapped the valves and replaced the valve guide seals. That head was warped too so I flattened it with sandpaper on glass. The new used head immediately slid the valve guide into the cylinder and blew the valve guide seal off. SO I removed the valve guide, beat the crap out of it with a framing hammer and pounded it back in the head. I did a leak down test last week and it was hissing out the exhaust so I ordered a valve. Tore the thing down and the guy sent me the wrong valve. So I lapped the valves and put the thing back together. This mower has to work every day. Healthy or not. Right now the engine runs like crap, blows smoke, fouls the left plug and uses oil. But, there is no blow-by. HMM. Let me think about this. There is no blow by coming out of the tube that goes into the intake but if you pull the oil filler cap it blows oil all everywhere. I just got a compression tester so Ima go test the compression right now. This engine has been working sick at least 800 hours,.

My did the exact thing. Piece of garbage cobalt

i had a 2inch coupler with a bad latch. all i could find locally was a 1&7/8". works perfect on a 2" or a 1&7/8. ball hitch now

Mine cracked the same way and I put JB weld on it until I could order the part off eBay,then watched this video on how to install. I have to replace the other side as well.Hooray for You Tube tutorials and eBay.

Thanks for this video. My dad is gonna help me w this one. Shouldn’t be too complicated!!

Nice job Son! 👍

Thanks just what I needed

strong arm lol, ,probably low compression...

Helped me out so Much! Thanks man

My signals don't cancel. Will this fix the issue?

Wow. I see several people saying to pull the heads and inspect the head gaskets. Lol. You can perform a cylinder leak down test in a few minutes. No need to pull the heads.

I’ve been looking for a way to mount a rack without having to screw into the beams in my storage unit. great idea with the clamps and the plywood! I’m gonna make something similar.

thank you! just what I needed to see!

Thanks for the vid. I just hit mine with the mower and launched the lever across the yard. I was worried I was gonna have to replace the whole tounge! Good info!

Everything is great. But...it looks like you still have some wobble on the ball even after the second try. Maybe the nut should be a little bit tighter (?)

Your video guided me through perfectly Glad I had two hands and a nifty little 2 way Rachet Thank you 😊

Looks like its been replaced once already judging by the prying marks on the plastic and not fitted together properly

having trouble getting the ball in after replacing… all 2” so idk what the problem is

Just a crazy question about your installation. Would it be easier to thread the nut if you took the tension off the lever ( open it)?

Semi-unrelated, but was your ball loose and was that part of the plan?

Any idea why the power washer loose water pressure? Mine acts as this one

Thank you!!! I’ve watched several videos and yours is the first to explain that the hook needs to go over the bar on the underside of the hitch.

It's either ur rings going bad or u got a bad head gasket on a cylinder

Wiper switch replacement on the other side just as easy. I pulled the bottom halves out and lifted up on the top piece. The right-side trim piece I pulled out and then replaced the switch unit. Great video saved me some labor costs.

Look for the breather that ventillates the crankcase. If it is blocked it might cause your rough idle and blow-by too. Older engines are not blowing the fumes to the intake breather. They usually blow the fumes to the atmosphere. If you know someone with a compression tester get that done. If all else fails get some oil that is used for older motors. It is formulated to have less blow-by.

thank you excellent

Thank you for helping us old folks

What did you run over it for? Just saying I just ran over mine

Thanks for the great video. It was a lot more simple then I imagined.

Wow you saved me!!! Thank you Sir! I fumbled for 2 days trying to figure it out. I’m sure you have helped countless people. Gracias. Gonzalo/Miami

Thanks. Very helpful for a (should be) simple) fix.

I had to remove the rectangular washer altogether in order to have enough threading showing on the bolt (1 - 1&1/2 threads) to satisfy the safety warning. Think that's okay? I'll be checking it periodically to see if it needs tightening per the instructions and saving the washer in case there's room for it down the road after usage. Also my ball clamp sticks even when I unlock the coupler lock - I have to jiggle it extensively to get it to disengage. Not sure why.

Rings

Hey I’m not sure anyone else noticed this or not but your towing ball is loose. The nut that holds it on you can see moving back and forth in your video. Not good. i think my dad commented this because this was not me XD

Awesome, thanks much, great video!!

Could u tell me what Kawasaki engine model that is? And what year?

You have one of 2 problems first I would look at is pulling the heads and check out the head gaskets from there if the head gaskets don't show signs of seapage then I'd say bad Ring's.

I’ve had Kawasaki engines do this before , it’s because they’ll run well even when they’re worn out and need to be rebuilt or changed completely. Also Kawasaki valve guides slip when they wear out and the heads have to be replaced . It can cause exhaust valves to bend and be stuck open

I have a John Deere with a 20 horse V-Twin that does the same thing it will foul the plugs and it will blow a lot of smoke out at one time and then it'll run fine and it made blow it out again

need rings

Well, seems like a new engine. Now, if people only let the engines warm up before starting the mowing process, they surely would last a little longer. But, people like to smack full throttle while it's barely lukewarm. But hey.