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Get smaller padlocks.

Yeah, makes sense to me. It nver ends! 😂

What is happening with mine ruclips.net/user/shortsQkM2sUuF9Kw

Do you notice any wear on the bottom of the quick jacks from sliding them around? I’m interested but would be on pavement for most my work. I wish they came with bearings on the bottom. I’m just concerned the scraping would lead to eventual rust etc.

My 22 locked up the rear tires and I slid off the road at 55mph. 23k miles

Wouldn’t a bigger tank fix this….. like a galvenized 220

trying to figure out why there isnt a safety bar on the other side

The sealant is likley and Anaerobic sealant, meaning it cures in the absense of oxygen. being out in the open air it won't cure and will stay liquid.

Great video.thanks. time to recall ford.

I dont get all that I just painted the inserts ..look just as great

The axle travel up and down on any road, problem is the wire is fixed to the axle with clips, and at the top, which causes the harness to stretch, which causes the wires inside the loom to break, I would recommend not to clip it back on, but tie it out of the way, to have that extra slack, and will have more freeplay when bouncing on the rear suspension, easy easy

I have the same hydraulic unit as you do. Mine was a little wet with oil also. I used full synthetic hydraulic oil.

Can you stack two sets of these jacks on top of each other to double the lift?

That sealer works with the lack of oxygen. It hardens right after you tighten

Thanks for the kind words and great video. Reducing 500+ cycles per day will certainly make the pump and everything last much longer. A couple of suggestions if you don't mind. Without a Cycle Stop Valve one minute to fill the pressure tank is bare minimum. But with a CSV tank fill time is not important as the CSV will not let the pump shut off until all taps are closed anyway. It would have been best to install the CSV1A at the well head between the well head tee and the faucet. That way even the faucet at the well head would be controlled and deliver constant pressure from the CSV. Then if you remove the extra check valve before the tank, as it is not needed, the faucet at the well head will work with the CSV on demand like everything else. The pressure relief valve still needs to pop off at 75 PSI in case the pressure switch fills with ants and fails to shut the pump off at 60 as it should. The pressure relief valve just needs to be installed on or after the CSV1A. The 3/4 port in the bottom of the CSV is after the working part of the CSV and is a good place to install the prv that is set at 75 PSI. Adding the CSV solved all your problems with the well pump. Adding another CSV will solve all the problems you will soon have with the booster pump that supplies the RO water to the house. That is a variable speed booster pump which will give you lots of problems. It doesn't use a pressure tank and does come on every time a faucet is cracked open, which isn't good. The CSV system doesn't need much of a tank but uses all the water out of the tank before the pump comes on. Your booster system would work much better and last much longer if you used a regular shallow well jet pump with a PK1A kit to control it. You can also use a submersible well pump in the RO storage tank as a booster, which also works well with a CSV like comes in the PK1A kit. Have pictures and drawings of a jet or submersible booster pumps with a Cycle Stop Valve when you start having issues with the variable speed booster you have. All the best!!

It's something that still frustrates me. I've had close to 100 reviews rejected. The reviews had images and/or videos and long detailed analysis, but we're rejected because I was critical. Yet five star paid/fake reviews that simply say "Great product" remain. My guess is that as retailers know that reviews can influence sales, they complain to Amazon about it and they're then taken down.

That's freedom!

Looks really good!

F'kd in the head engineering... I only have a highschool diploma and Iknow better that to stick a wire on a moving part of the truck...Fk'd in the head engineering.

Fixed or repaired daily 😂😂😂garbageeeeeeee

About the sealant, I suspect it is the type that cures only when in absence of oxygen. So letting it air out you will never see the true result

Shark bite, shark bite, amen. They make the job look clean, they’re fast and easy to adjust if you make a mistake. Of course if you want to go primitive there’s always glue or sweat, I save them for big jobs.

That is a beautiful f 150. What is your setup with your lift and tire 🛞 combo??

Would you trust it on an appx 6000lb Toyota Sequoia??

At about 14:50 and after, I mention that the pump needs to run a minute or so after the pressure switch turns off. This does not apply to this set up.

It’s worth it! 😀

I wish I were down there so I didn’t have to work on my stuff in a crawl space and freezing temps! Great video, at!

Has anyone tried lifting a RAM Cummis 6.7L Diesel MEGA Cab with a set of the 7000's yet??

The question is, would you feel safe getting under the car (with the wheels off) ??? That's the million dollar question. I would not feel comfortable working under the truck (Wheels off) without supplemental backup jack stands around the pinch weld of the vehicle. Thoughts?

When I added the RSB, I moved the plastic piece under the bump stop a bit inboard and used a zip-tie to keep it there. There must be wiring to the passenger side parking brake, though.

Thank you for the demonstration well done

Bought mine through Home Depot. It must have been an open box return because the connectors were loose in the box, the hoses were not zip tied, power cord was not zip tied to the compressor, the packaging slip and another paper were crumpled at the bottom, and there was no instruction manual. Will assemble it in the next few days.

I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack, or even ramps.

One thing that I started doing on my cars (and seems very apparent watching your truck being lifted) is to put the vehicle in neutral while it is being lifted. The reason is due to the arch inherent to the way these lifts operate. As the vehicle starts to lift, it will be pushed forward (or backward) depending on how the lift is oriented. What happens is that the Quickjack is trying to move your vehicle forward, while your parking pawl or parking brake is fighting this movement while the tires are on the ground. On your truck with longer suspension travel, you see this "fight" happening in real-time, with your Quickjack frames sliding, as well as the chirping happening in your tires as the weight transfers more to the jacks than the wheels. By putting it in neutral, this becomes a non-issue as the wheels will just roll as needed until they come off the ground. One VERY important thing is to only put the car in neutral and release the parking break after you just start lifting the vehicle a little. This way, some of the weight will already be on the Quickjack, and it will prevent your vehicle from rolling away uncontrollably. I also put wheel chocks a few inches in front and in back of the tires in the unlikely event that the frames lose pressure, so the car can only roll a couple inches before stopping on one of the chocks.

Once every 5 yrs!?!

I have the 2014 Summit and it does not have the fender trim pieces and it has the front bumper radar sensors so I am wondering if the removal process is a little bit different? Guessing those sensors are plugged into something and since there is no fender trim to unsnap wondering how it comes loose on the summit? Thanks

Not supposed it’s going on to mine right now

still not crawling under it

Thanks much! I pulled off plastic support from welded steel bracket. Used a screwdriver thru small slot and very slightly bent steel wing ever so slightly upward toward bed. Replaced plastic support and gained 1/8 inch clearance. It did have a rub mark! 2022 Lariat.....

Last thing these trucks need are electric parking brakes along with electric steering 😜

Something about trucks with single exhaust?? Any thoughts ?

So they eliminated parking brake cables but now the new parking brake wire cables are defective.

Thx for posting this vid! Going to check it on my 23 power boost🍻

Thanks for the great info! I have a 2023 F150 V- 8 with 1800 miles. I crawled under my truck and sure enough just like you said my emergency brake harness was touching my rear axel and I found a little bit of chafing on the tape. The wire loom is flexible so I zip tied my harness on top of the metal bracket. Keep up the great videos.

What modle would you reccomend for a 2012 Expedition EL?

I’ve had a few instances where I get an e-brake warning light on the dash. Once during heavy rain on the highway and another time after going over some rough pavement. Only 8k miles. Thanks for crawling under.

Precise as usual! At!!!

Sliding around like that is counter intuitive if I understand the point of a floor jack.

Nice video. Those jacks should be standard issue to anyone with a garage, at! 😂

What flooring is that?