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It's "lacquer" and due to new formulations, you probably need to use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to dissolve it.

I tried something like that and didn't ever have any luck. whatever I used to try to get rid of the mask would also get rid of the paint on top. It's an interesting idea,I just don't know how to make it work.

yeah, i eventually went to using a laminator as well- it really makes the process much faster.

it's pretty thin, which helps with this method. magazine pages would probably also work.

@@WroughtIronEffects Thanks for suggestion. I tried weeks ago on a guitar wood neck but toner did not transfer well. ☺

@@algreen1231 yeah, having the right kind of waxy paper and timing for just the right moment to apply it to the lacquer are the keys. It takes some practice.

It's wired to indicate volume level.

Not exactly sure of the question. You definitely need to use a laser printer-- ink jet won't work. I use either pcb transfer paper available from Amazon, or the glossy side of shipping label backing paper. Does that answer your question?

it actually will completely melt the toner. you can make a diluted solution of acetone and isopropyl and transfer that way. there is a tutorial on here about doing it that way by someone else.

I can't remember exactly what lacquer that was, but I still do it this way, and any lacquer I have worked has tried as long as you use 91% Isopropyl alcohol as the solvent-- NOT Denatured alcohol like in this video.

@@WroughtIronEffects Well I just have some laquer but it reacts to acetone. Not so much as the toner, but it does

the lacquer provides a transfer medium. It gives the toner something to stick to that's soft. Kind of like glue. Other mediums may work, too. But Lacquer is the one that I have found that can be easily removed with a solvent (91% isopropyl) that doesn't affect the toner.

I have not had much success with the few times I tired color toner, but I believe others have done it successfully.

I do have some updates. I've been trying to get around to making a new video. Maybe later this week...

I always wonder why not include information like that in the video? Seems to me like this would be an essential part of the whole process. But I guess it's my bad thinking that there are not-half-assed videos on RUclips...

@@whiterottenrabbit yes, it's your bad thinking.

@@WroughtIronEffects Yeah, has nothing to do with half-assed approach whatsoever by you and numerous other Yourubers **slow clap**

@@whiterottenrabbit *bows graciously*

Yes, but it won't show up well.

Sorry for the late reply. I use solvent based lacquer. If you use isopropyll alcohol to dissolve it, most any solvent based lacquer i have tried has worked.

I will see if I can do that. I did have a video on my IG (wroughtironeffects) of bending some aluminum plates into enclosures.

Wow, your pedals look great. Looks like a lot of work goes into the enclosures. I didn't see a vid on your site, so one here would be appreciated if not too much trouble, thanks.

I have been having good luck with several different lacquers lately with this one key change: Use 90% ISOPROPYL alcohol (the stuff you get at walmart or the drug store) instead of Denatured alcohol to wipe off the lacquer after doing the transfer.

@@WroughtIronEffects, thanks for following up on this technique. If you don't mind sharing which type of lacquers you've had luck with; trying to figure out if it has to be a nitro lacquer or if acrylic lacquer also works. Do you mean to wipe over the back side of the paper with the transfer on it while it is on the metal or actually wipe over the transfer with 91% after applying and removing the paper... confused on that one. Thanks very much.

YES! it's how i do all of my aluminum and PCB etching.

it's the slick side of the backing paper from shipping labels. I think there's a link to it in the comments.

@@WroughtIronEffects nope

@@bjl1000 updated with the link in the description.

the acetone is just for cleaning off the toner after you're done etching or if you mess up and need to start over.

sounds like you might be doing too heavy of a coat. you really need a super light coat. You should be able to start the transfer right away-- like maybe 30 seconds or less after spraying. if you wait 3 minutes and it's still tacky, it's probably too heavy of a coat. Super light coat to do the transfer then several regular thin coats to protect it afterward.

@@WroughtIronEffects well, that was my second thought. tried again with lighter coating and waited 8 min (spray can said surface dry after 10, so it was still a little sticky). Also I pressed instead of rubbing. Result is great except for one spot where I accidently rubbed with my fingernail. Maybe still to thick... However - for the second try I'm really happy! Especially having unsuccessfully messed around with other methods for quite a while. Thanks a lot man!

I have tried PCB transfer paper (more expensive, worse results), parchment paper (has to be cut to size to go through a printer and is so thin some printers can't grab it) and freezer paper (still have to cut it in both dimensions, mixed results for transfer). None of them has worked as good as the label backing and the labels are about $10/100 sheets. If you have a source for 8.5x11 sheets of shiny wax paper that's less than 10 cents a sheet, I'd love to try it.

personally,i'm moving towards getting away from any transfer method,by building my own cnc for laser etching and milling pcb track,honestly fed up messing with this whole setup,ferric chloride is too bloody messy,and i have the proper etch tanks,your wax paper is far stiffer than the yellow sheet i have been using,but it's still a pain in the arse,whether ironing it or some other tedious heating method,the only saving grace is that if the transfer toner screws up the copper clad board is still usable for a repeat of the process ,i bought my transfer sheet from china post free,150 sheets for about £2 or £3 sterling(uk),no where lese could the stuff be so cheap,but again the gauge is a factor,also i have seen the actual vinyl being cut with a cnc vinyl cutter for pcb trace resist,a whole piece is stuck on the board first then cut and weeded out,might have been a laser cut now i think of it,anyway,asap i'm going cnc,bluetooth connected to my workshop and watch via web cam,while i do other stuff at my cosy indoor bench,as it should be. Enjoyed the vid,just thought the vinyl a bit wastefull,atb.

Hey Robert, I've been having trouble with the new formulations of Lacquer as well. Isopropyl works better than Denatured alcohol for me, but I've been using an older can of lacquer, apparently from before they changed the formulation. If I find a good substitute, I'll post it here.

I just tried the alcohol/acetone mix method ruclips.net/video/HBIxvwZ_0og/видео.html. One of the comments said use Regular Nail Polish Remover. Worked 4 me. I suggest you try that.

Hey Claudia, I have never gotten it to work nearly as well with other papers. Even the paper that's specifically for PCB toner transfer doesn't work as well as the label backing paper for me. Wax paper works well, but the size is inconvenient.

4 months ago you promised an update. Where is it?

Shellac will dissolve in alcohol you only would need to add pigment to it for this method. And i'm not sure if that toner would stick to it.

I have heard from the owner of Loophole Pedals has done this with wipe-on polyurethane. I have yet to try that. I have a couple alternatives that I want to try, but in the meantime, you might look-up Mike Copeland from loophole Pedals on facebook on through his website and ask him about his process.

print on the waxy side of the paper after you peel the labels off.

Ed Chew thank you

Hey John, you *can* use glossy photo paper, but it won't work nearly as easily. probably the second best thing I've used is freezer paper. glossy photo paper was pretty frustrating to me. clear lacquer will work, it's just a little harder to see that you've got it all off. Not sure about shellac, but i would guess it might.

Jonathan Fisher it has to be a laser printer which uses toner rather than ink. Toner is basically melted plastic.

Awesome. And you used the "glossy" side of a label page correct? The stuff you would normally throw away after peeling the labels away?

exactly.