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It sounds like you have an internal air leak in the carb. Bad gasket or something. Did you put a kit in it or just open it up and clean it out? Sometimes the old gaskets, even though they may look OK, just don't survive.

@@TonysHotRodGarage yeah I didn’t replace any gaskets, just opened it up and cleaned it. I’ll change those out, thanks for the suggestion.

@@TonysHotRodGarage I see your idle was set to 8 degrees with the vacuum advance removed and stayed at 8 degrees when attached. Is this how it’s supposed to be or is the timing supposed to advance when you attach the vacuum? I’m trying to figure this timing thing but it seems everyone has a different way of timing. (P.S.) I have a 22r, Weber carb, and dui performance distributor .

I'm not familiar with the DUI distributor but the LCE units I use have a quick mechanical curve with vacuum option. What your after on a stock-ish 22R is 36°-38° at whatever RPM your distributor mechanically provides full advance. This should be done with no vacuum applied. The LC Engineering Hi-performance distributors I use just happen to land at 8° at idle. The first step for you is to find your setup's happy place ignition wise. Then hook your vacuum advance to ported vacuum on the carburetor. This means no vacuum at idle and the vacuum will come on as you open the throttle. If you cannot close the throttle plates far enough with these ignition settings to maintain sufficient idle speed with the the transfer slots mostly covered and the vacuum slot completely covered, then you have internal carburetor problems and/or potentially other base engine faults that must be addressed before you begin tuning the fuel curve of the carb. Hope this helps.

@@TonysHotRodGarage thank you so much, this is gold 🙏. I’m 17 and just learning and figuring this thing out so any advice helps. I got it going today and it runs but I can tell it’s lacking some power, idles a little rough, and has minor backfire at idle so I don’t think I got it perfect. I’ll keep dinking around with it and hopefully it comes together. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it 🙏

You're welcome! Glad you like it!

Killer 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻

Just wait til you see what's next...

@ i can’t wait.

You betcha! First class products.

@@edsmachine93 she's got 2 new front hub assemblies now. Much happier Chevy now! 😉

@@BuckDOESIT beats me LOL! I found it while doing the brake job. Just got a new bearing and replaced it. I bet it sounded bad though.

@@dennisrichardson2577 LOL This poor truck is getting some much needed love.

@@peted5217 yep it got a new one. 👍

It's a game changer, that's for sure!

There are several that have been up for a few months... ruclips.net/video/cCA-7B2z9B0/видео.htmlsi=8ckZ7MtpG5vPx7ua ruclips.net/user/shorts-Rnjzqjmtcs?si=aaAc2rFMfWYBfOCk ruclips.net/user/shortsiZtG2isK1hA?si=KsjcQSAgjrSkKGfu ruclips.net/user/shortssvEVosXHHBU?si=mZhgLoX9D1kFheaD Also, Stay tuned... In the next couple of weeks we're going to be installing a pair of these (650 CFM Versions) along with a Tunnel Ram on our "Honey Badger" 428 CJ Powered Rat Rod.

@@TonysHotRodGarage Thanks Tony. I watched that one but am really looking for a review on how well it runs on the street. Off-idle response, midrange cruise, and WOT. Some feedback on economy versus what was on the vehicle would be helpful as well. I've watched a lot of videos on dyno gains but would much prefer actual street feedback!

@@rboynton8671 Gotcha. I've been super busy in the shop with customers' projects, but I'll get a video done on it soon. Also check out @UnityMotorSportsGarage and @SlantDailyGarage They're both good friends of mine and have got some good street use videos of these carbs.

@@rboynton8671 as for fuel economy, I've never bothered to even calculate it on my truck. It's a 700+ HP race bred big block LOL. Not 100% sure But I think Shane at Slant Daily Garage has made some points on fuel economy with the VRS

@@TonysHotRodGarage Thanks man. I have a 512ci Mopar BB in a 72 Challenger 727 w/3.23 gearing. Currently running an AVS2 800.

It's a Mopar Performance Master Cylinder adapter P/N: P5249315 and pushrod P/N: P4510640. The Master Cylinder is a Strange Engineering P/N: B3360TA. You'll have to change out the tube nuts or use adapters. My truck had the smaller pattern of 4 holes already in the firewall (not all trucks do) but you may have to drill them. Unfortunately MP doesn't make that adapter anymore but I believe Dr. Diff has something similar available. I have a Facebook page as well or shoot me an email. My email is in all my long form video descriptions. I'd be happy to help you however I can. Thanks for watching!

First class products

That's exactly what I was thinking. 😂

Oh yeah! I was in the shop until 10 PM Sunday night doing brakes and welding repairs on the back of the dump box so that thing could work Monday morning. It's owner's employee picked it up and didn't even make to the jobsite before that pump shit the bed! 🤣

@TonysHotRodGarage 🤣 👍🇺🇸👍💯💥💣

🤣

That ain't no lie!

Same here, I'm the hoarder from hell!