Видео

Greetings from Houston,Texas!!!

Thank you much appreciated!! Glad to see we are in New Zealand. You just made my day sir!!

You gott it!!

Thank you for your comment and glad to hekp

My apologies. I was not locked in properly when i did this video. Bank 1 is going to be wherever cylinder 1 is in the vehicle. Hope that helps and thank you for stopping by!!

1 and A are the same when referring to banks

A would be the one closest to the vehicle in this situation

Easier for me to do it the way I did it...and less time. To each his own though.. whatever works

It'll be really tight but I believe it can be done as long as you remove the condenser

@ But even if I removed the engine with the transmission. Wouldn’t the motor still be locked? Meaning I still wouldn’t be able to get to the torque bolts cause it won’t be able to move. So what’s the point removing of removing the trans?

@Cmimss you can remove the engine and then remove the oil pan. The. You can remove the bearing from the crankshaft m that should allow you to turn the engine to get the torque converter off. Lot of work but will save you a torque converter for the new engine

The transmission will come off without the torque converter

@@wedoitall7676 Dam I only owe $4,000 on it. Might just trade it in and then wont have to worry about a Motor replacement lol Already got 400,000 Miles ON her. My Denali on my Channel if you wanna see how it looks.

It's definitely a pain and I'm glad it's the only one I've seen to date...lol

Car had a code for it and the gauge was not registering

Glad to help.. no problem at all

You're absolutely welcome

You may have to use a jack and jack up the engine via the oil pan. I've never had to replace the crank sensor but if there is no room release the motor mount and jack the engine up carefully. Hope that helps

@@wedoitall7676 Thanks. For the crankshaft sensor that is what I need to do next, even with a long flexible extension it is just very hard to get to, absolutely no room to work. But that is a good suggestion I will try.

I've done a ton of mods. I will take a video and post it when I have time.

Skunk hobbies ships fast and has most of the parts l. R/C kustom lowriders has a lot of parts too but shipping can be a little slow

Wish I could post a picture for you

I got a custom interior from Jose Silva on FB. I added the light kit and underglow kit as well. I also got custom graphics painted on it at a local car show. It has a sticker kit and a custom drive shaft. Also got longer shocks

@@wedoitall7676 yeah I’ve done some mods on the REDCAT lowriders I have as well, minor stuff like added the light kits & the JEVRIES true13 gold wheels I don’t post much videos on utube of them, I don’t got uploading utube skills, plus I’m trying to build my RC work table section at my house, right now I work off the dining room table

Glad to help!!

They are different

Haven't had the pleasure of changing a crankshaft sensor yet

Cam sensors are usually more on top, crank sensors usually are accessed from the bottom. They are different and they work in correlation for your vehicles timing

Sorry...not understanding your question

Glad to be of service....be blessed

I believe I used 12 or 10. Wanted something big enough to handle the current

@@wedoitall7676 you think 14 would be too big?

And are the wires that mesh with fusible link 10gauge?

@@1dfgbj I don't think it will be too big at all

@@wedoitall7676 ok great any suggestions on length

Glad to help..thanks for supporting the channel!!

Thanks for the comment and I'm glad to help....not sure why they make them the way they do but we can find ways to make them better imo

Didn't have to bleed the radiator. Minimal antifreeze was lost during replacement

Thank you. I appreciate it!!

That experience would be absolutely horrible. This alternator is not for the weak of heart and to find out it wasn't the problem after changing it would be devastating..lol

Glad to help!!, no problem

My apologies

If the alternator got soaked ..it could definitely be the problem. Stop.by one of your local part stores and have them run a free check in it to be sure

@@wedoitall7676 Thx - does it have to be removed to run the test?

@@cookedaudio no sir. They'll test it through the battery with a machine

@@wedoitall7676 Well awesome. Thx, maybe I'll give this one a try 🙂

@@cookedaudio glad to help

Right (passenger) side: 1-3-5 from front to rear Left (driver) side: 2-4-6

No problem...glad to be of service

You be blessed as well sir

Thank you..glad to help

Yes sir...it's been addressed. Thank you

No problem at all boss

No I don't . I went to a lawnmower salvage yard and picked it up. Sorry about thta

I replaced the whole transmission assembly. I took the part number from the transmission and found the axles online

The fuse or relay is the first place to start. Test them to ensure they have continuity. Then I would use a 12 volt source to power up the compressor at the connection to see if it powers up. Using a 12 volt connection to check compressor at the plug is probably your best bet

Sorry for the delay. I didn't get a notification from RUclips. Your fuel leak may be the line at 8:25 or one of the o-rings on the injectors. You have to ensure that when you re-install those injectors are seated all the way back in firmly. Those are the only things fuel system wise that I removed

If you take your time it's really not that bad but I understand that different people have different levels of skill so a shop may be your best bet.

For this method....yes you do. I explained it in the video so you can have a better idea

That's unfortunate...maybe they gave you the wrong one. Hopefully you can get it squared away. Good luck

No problem at all!!!

No problem at all!!

Great info. Thanks for sharing and thanks for allowing me to help you. Good luck with the swap. Sounds like you will kill it

No problem at all boss