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No way you wrote that. No way.

@@lipoz-n-nitroz4012 I did. What’s so surprising about it?

​@@JozMkII there'd be no way for the glue to melt on a hot day, by that point your concern is running away from whatever house fire you find yourself in before you cook alive

@@Ferrari255GTO It wouldn’t need to melt. It would only need to get hot enough to soften sufficiently and become deformable from the force of BBs pushing up against it. I’ve worked with hot glue quite a bit with RC plane projects, and have noticed that hot glue joints get soft in 90+ degree Fahrenheit outside temps. And in addition, I’ve tested hot glue joints by leaving test projects inside my car in hot summer temps; The greenhouse effect can get the glue joints so hot that they come undone on their own from the glue melting. After all, hot glue is designed to soften and melt via heat in the first place. Plus, the glue can get brittle and crack like glass in really cold temps. In fact, I’ve learned a trick to exploit this in cases where I might need to undo a hot glue joint; I hold a can of compressed air upside-down and directly spray the the can’s liquid refrigerant on the hot glue joint, making the glue itself brittle enough to literally break with force. All I’m saying here is that, while this looks like a pretty quick and crafty trick for making an R-hop nub, I’d be concerned of its ability to withstand the replica’s internal forces in extreme outside temps. I suppose the risks would be mitigated for an air softer who only plays in fair weather, but then there’s some of us who like to do milsim events that are scheduled months out and in which extreme temps and other crappy weather are accepted as realistic elements of the event.

@@JozMkII the thing is it still takes about 100°C to turn it softer, you'd have your battery burst in flames before that happens and by that point you're fucked anywyas

What modifications?

@@MiGujack3 I removed the rubber hopup bucking so it was just the hopup arm, and cut a small rectangle spacer out (from a credit card type of material) and put it over the hopup patch, so it was like a flat hop nub. etc. That was alll. Update - I used .25g bbs and they jammed because the glue isn't springy, so you have to set the hopup and leave it there.

scuff the barrel window so that the glue can seep in better. watch some proper r-hop installation videos and you'll get what i mean.

what nub did you use?

shouldnt melt and hop ups always wear down over time tho i would imagine this one a little more rapidly

Trick is to not lot the glue fully cool. I let it cool about 1 minute and got the best result.

It's been a full year and it still works but it has been wearing out. Tme to do a new one and another for my new barrel! I play 2-4 times per month, if anyone is wondering. If you are a DIY person, its a pice of cake.

It is an insanely smart way to make a patch. Have you had any problems with the patch leaving glue residue in the barrel? I'm hesitant to try this In my dmr.

Which bucking do you run?

@@hypotheticmyth7141 update, on cold weather is not great, it overhops a lot :(

@@lucasvanbeers9906 a random one, not sure whatsoever

You should try other materials, RTV maybe?

i think it would be more of an s hop tbh

@@ZEFI907 H Hop

HG hop lol

Hey, I have a Well L96 (MB08, type 96), with an AEG 6.03 barrel and the AA chamber. Would you recommend I do this mod ? Would the barrel be unusable afterwards should I decide to go back to normal hop rubber ? Any other info from your experience! Thanks in advance!

I recommend you use the stock hop rubber with the nub removed when using this mod. I think doing this to a 6.03 barrel won't be a problem since I also did this on a 6.01 EdGI inner barrel installed in a VSR 10, no issues. The owner even said that hot glue works better than an aftermarket ML hop rubber. I abandoned the the hot glue hop up though and installed a silcone hose rhop for durability. After a whole day play, we have observed that basrs seem to destroy s-hops faster than aegs. Fun fact: the bbs left a triangular friction pattern on the s-hop which explains ML's triangular nub design.

​@@sainteniayel47great info, thanks! So using rubber/tube for r hop should last longer than S hop for BASRs, right?

it’s called a bucking i recommend cyma or madbull

LMAO, it's bucking! I was wondering where can I get similar rubber as guy in this video has. It needs to be non-sticky, malleable and flexible. And it is the bucking. I can't unsee it now. Thanks

Great parts 🤝

How is it holding up do you recommend?

Yeah, keen to know how long this lasts before it wears out!

Hi .. in moment I spent round about 5000 bbs .. and it is still graet

@@melronhr7686 Awesome! Have you tried it with unbridged/VSR style barrels?

@@rdb9936 no i play normal Poseidon barrel

Secret sauce

you will never get a better range on 0.3. If it's accurate on 75 meters jus leave it be and kill people.

Hi Filip, I am very curious: What kind of nub/tensioner are you using with this r-hop to achieve these results?

I doubt it, this method is genius because it seals all the air because of the perfect fit achieved by the hot and moldable hot glue applyed.

This is what is worn down vs the bucking rubber on a flat hop. Also once this patch is worn down fully, if the bucking is still good, you can just use the bucking as a flat hop afterwards.

Did you ever try it out?

​@@Riley-hartman i did in my vsr 10, takes a bit of skill and i heated the razor blade to get a smooth finish. For me its been working gr8 so far in my vsr 10. 2.8 joule and 0.45g bbs hopping like a charm, but i really need that weight, the hot glue is very aggressive in overhopping lighter bullets, atleast for my vsr