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Adding on (just got to the end of your video😂). One additional ‘pro’ of the MY2020 M340i is there’s no Mild Hybrid complexity/future cost of 48V battery replacement, at least in North America (MH application varies by region).

My old oil pump was showing signs of defect (unable to measure oil, stopped at around 20% and kicked me back to menu page), that’s why I decided to change it out. Since I have the, supposedly, new design of oil pump, I have been able to measure oil every single time. The indy shop mechanic even showed me the new and old oil pump design comparison (plastic components vs metal). And I agree with your point of view about the MH design on the 2021+ MY. From one of the commenters on my previous vid about changing the fluid and filter on its ZF8, there’s a different design and part# for the transmission pan filter, to accommodate the MH start stop system. And the MH transmission pan filter is significantly more expensive than the non-MH 2020 MY 😮‍💨

Ah yep it was definitely failing. I have a 2021 Supra with an early production date so it is likely affected; it only sees ~1k miles per year so hopefully I’ll never find out. It’s a rather involved job on the Supra requiring the subframe to be dropped. I imagine it’s the same on the G20 but could be wrong. Very interesting on the oil pump comparison. If you have any pictures the Supra forum would definitely be interested. For the revised 8HP I wonder if the commenter was referring to the G20 LCI2 (2025+). Prior to the LCI2 the MH setup uses a generator with a pulley on the crank, whereas the new iteration leverages the transmission.

Not necessarily the reason, no. It’s just because the Amsoil ATL is what Sutphin Tuning, as well as other transmission upgrade shops, used as an upgraded fluid for the ZF8. After doing some more research before I chose Amsoil, I believe the OEM Lifeguard 8 is a Group 3 oil, and the Amsoil ATL is a Group 5 oil. Easiest way to explain it is that the LG8 is semi-synthetic oil and Amsoil ATL is full synthetic oil; and that the Amsoil ATL can take on a lot more beating than the LG8. Hope this answers your question!

Thank you man, as always!

@@TandeGarage ofc! the tip on cross referencing parts with Toyota was mind blowing😂I never thought about that. So, how would you go about finding the part number and matching it? is there a constant number that doesn't change between the manufactures for certain parts? - if that makes sense lol

Appreciate the kind words - hope this video was helpful to you, however way this relates to your project. Best of luck!

Of course man, go for it - all the best!

I’m glad the video helped!

Much agreed, and I’m meticulous about rattles so this car drives me crazy from time to time. I’ve drafted up a video of one-year impression, and some pros and cons of my M340i over the year, just a couple of wrinkles to be fixed with editing. After that, the videos will be live, and hopefully it will spark some more discussions among owners!

😂😂😂 but not gonna lie, red looks good too!

Appreciate the kind words! I got the tray from Aliexpress. It fits **almost** perfectly, just the corners sticking out a tiny bit that you may want to use more 3M double-sided tape to fit more flush. I don’t mind it, it’s practical for the most part. But my partner absolutely hates it, says it “cheapens” the car lol. To each their own!

@@TandeGarage I appreciate your quick reply and honesty

I haven’t seen a G20 330ix undercarriage in person, so can’t comment from experience. I’d assume there should be a front subframe on the 330ix too, just like any other unibody vehicles out there. They are generally a safe spot to lift up the entire front end. The matter here lies on if you can find a spot, sometimes it’s marked, sometimes it’s hidden, at the front subframe to lift it up.

It really is that easy 😂

I am running DWS06+! And yes, my car had RFT from the factory. I have been running DWS06+ as my “summer tires” several years ago on different cars. I live in Toronto, Canada, where we do see all 4 seasons; and occasionally snow very badly for several days/weeks. I don’t run these in the winter, as I have dedicated winter tires. I think they are great as all season tires, one of the best tires for daily drivers with occasional spirited driving. Low noise, great ride quality, does all season conditions pretty well. I hate RFT with a genuine passion: they are generally more expensive to begin with; lack of flexibility to repair them in case of a puncture (not all tire shops would work on repairing RFT); harsher ride comfort, etc. The only real benefit is to the ability to get to a shop in case of a puncture, and I guess to reduce the vehicle’s gross weight since you’re not carrying a spare tire. TLDR: I love my DWS-06+! I would recommend them to anyone who is NOT a track monster/drag race driver.

Thanks for the kind words! In the video, the pan I used was made by Hengst, of OE equivalent. The part number is 24115A13115. The Amsoil ATF/ATL was purchased from Amsoil website directly.

99% of cars on the market has its own common problems tbh. Try to weigh the common problems and see if it’s worth your headaches over.

You’re gonna love when I launch my mini-series of attempting to address potential & existing interior rattles on the G20, in the soon future! Stay tuned!!!

@ Oh please release it asap! I can’t wait to fix them

Put a bit of grease around the sunroof and it should stop the rattle

Good video but you forgot the engine mounts. Known to fail quite easily, can be costly to repair. Car will rattle if they are damaged when the engine is at idle.

@ good call! Probably gonna do another update video about this, now that I’ve owned and known the car more!

Appreciate it, I’m also excited about my journey with the M340! I don’t think Bimmercode has the feature to code in the gear indicator, unfortunately (though I’m not 100% sure); mine is done through xHP, as I’m OTS-style custom tuned with Sutphin Tuning.

Bimmercode can’t do it unfortunately. XHP / TCU flash is the only way.

Not a big fan going about doing an extra step that does close to nothing. I’ve been compressing pistons back into the caliper without opening the bleeder valve for years. Haven’t had an issue so far, except for an old car from the 90s that sat in a barn for decades. If dirty fluid is a concern, I’d flush the entire hydraulic system with new brake fluid. Otherwise, open the master cylinder cap, push the piston back, close up the cap and call it a job well done.

@ makes sense to decouple from a dedicated brake flush job!

I’d say 60-ish k km is a pretty reasonable mileage to change the differentials fluids, it’s not exactly expensive nor labour intensive; but to each their own. If you do care about the car, these basic maintenance items are the least you can do to ensure its reliability; including a shortened engine oil change interval than what BMW recommends.

Look for sales with Germanparts.ca, I think they might be the cheapest to sell LM during sale. Try for their Black Friday sale that should happen later in Nov.

Somewhat glad that mine is not that “scientific”, just the traditional “fill to the brim and you’ll be alright”. 😂

Hi there! Yes, I do have xHP on my M340, OTS-style tuned with Sutphin Tuning. One of the best mods I’ve done with any of my cars - it just really transforms how the car drives. Paired nicely along with the BM3 Stage 1 tune currently it has on. And I really appreciate the kind words! I also see it that way, where more DIYers will try to work on these cars as they run out of warranty. But for now, I guess I’ll be the pioneer to inspire those!

Hey, thank you for the kind words! I already have a video for the exact content you’re asking for. Check out my m340 playlist for it. I guess the thumbnail wasn’t attractive enough, that I’ll have to redo it some other time 😂

@ thanks man, super helpful. I’m also surprised why I wasn’t able to find that video before - now I know it’s there!

Lovely, I’m glad to hear it helps! Best of luck to you to whatever projects you have lined up ahead!😎

I got the fluid from the dealership - be mindful that they are fairly limited stock. Call them before going there to realize they don’t have any in stock. The pump I just got off Amazon! I’m not yet an Amazon associate so I don’t want to post link (just yet). But read the reviews and buy one that has great feedback from users, then you should be all set 😉

@@TandeGarage thank you for quick response, new subscriber earned!

I see where the confusion lies! It’s pushing piston inward, back into the caliper. I’m just used to saying “winding” because of how my pad spreader tool works, that it winds in and thus pushing in the piston. Good luck at the project next week!

Great advice! Never thought of having AF off, guess that will be beneficial for DIY content. Will try that from the next vid 😉

I’m using Amsoil ATL according to Sutphin Tuning (xHP ZF tuner) suggestion. It’s one of the Group 5 oil that can handle more “abused” and severer duties of a tuned transmission, before the fluid starts to break down. According to the specs and info provided by Amsoil, it meets the OE (equivalent) fluid part number (83 22 0 142 516, 83 22 152 146) for the ZF 8 speed transmissions used on these cars. If your transmission is not tuned, OE or OE equivalent will be completely fine for your application. I have had great experience with Liqui Moly ATF 1800 in my previous F30 330ix. Others have also spoken greatly about ZF Lifeguard 8, which is an OE fluid used on these transmissions.

I’ve researched and heard from others that BMW transfer cases are picky with the fluid used, and they can act odd when the “wrong” fluid is used. OEM T-case fluid isn’t ridiculously expensive - unlike their rear diff fluid specifically, I’d stay with OEM unless it’s not an option (i.e. your dealership somehow doesn’t carry them or it’s on backordered indefinitely).

I was mistaken for the drain process, I see you can completely drain the unit so the over all question is, is it ok to switch from oem to redline 75w85

Glad to hear that! For both front and rear differentials, I’m not totally against mixing residue OEM fluids with other aftermarket options - chances are some aftermarket options offer better performance and protections than OEM. However, I don’t think BMW has ever published the information about their recommended or approved viscosity and specs for these drivetrain fluids on the G-chassis, that’s why I’m not too confident about aftermarket options, in terms of which one is “good” to be used.

Genuine BMW wipers are the best, hands down - except for pricing 😂 I don’t know which brand it is that Genuine BMW uses, that’s why I can’t recommend an OE solution to this. But Bosch wiper blades are still very good alternatives!

That’s actually a great question! BMW has not been publishing any official interval for these drivetrain components, as they claim they are “lifetime fluid” in which I went over they are more so referred to lifetime of the vehicle/average timespan of ownership. That said, everyone you speak you is going to have a different opinions on what’s the “proper” interval to change these fluid - because there simply isn’t a “proper” interval. And don’t forget that it generally varies depending on how you drive the car (do you haul anything, do you take the car to the track, do you do mostly city or highways/freeways, etc). However, to get you and anyone to start off with my own opinion: - Transfer Case Fluid: 80k km - Front Differential Fluid: 60k km - Rear Differential Fluid: 60k km - Transmission Fluid (and Filter): 80k km unless it’s tuned then you might want to do it earlier You can definitely go for the fluid change interval mentioned above earlier or later, give or take 10-20k km. The only one I’d say to kind of stick to it is the ZF8 transmission fluid as it’s a bit “picky”. You want to give the original fluid some time to break-in the gears a bit to collect the particles, as well as for the electronics of the transmission to adapt to these changes before you change over to brand new fluid. But fluid change is absolutely necessary, as they oxidize and break down over time, and they lose their properties in their functions. I don’t buy the whole lifetime fluid concept, IMO it’s just to bring down the cost of ownership so BMW or other manufacturers are looked nicely on papers.

If you are trying to tune it, 2020 is THE year you should put into consideration in priority. If you are just trying to enjoy the car as is, 2021 and up is your best choice, where you don’t need to worry about plastic components of oil pump, rear differential cover leaking, etc. In addition to the last one ☝️, if you want a higher tech then the pre-LCI (full digital dashboard vs digital dashboard+another screen for the iDrive system), then 2022+ for the LCI models. Hope this aids with your decision making!

Don’t buy the 2025 m340 because they switched to the b58 tu2 uses the technical updated engine version 2 with port injection. It is having engine failures. Also the mild hybrid version came out in 2022 or 2023 it has a purple cable by the oil housing. So I think 2022 is most reliable

These cars have pretty solid rear differential, other than being a leaky sweaty one 😅 That sounds more like suspensiom issue. I’d check your struts for hydraulic fluid leaks, endlinks for play, the easy and obvious stuff and start from there.

You’re welcome and I appreciate the kind words! I think you’re right, looks like I didn’t mention what to do after fitting the brake components in before going out to bed them in! You’ll have to deactivate the service mode before starting the car - same way how you would activate service mode. I’d just do that at once along with resetting the brake pad wear sensor with the diag tool of your choice, such as Bimmerlink. And just like any other cars after fitting new brake components, ideally you’ll want to slowly depress the brake pedal all the way several of times, to allow the brake system to generate the hydraulic pressure and push back out the brake pistons. After that, you’ll be good to lower the car to the ground and bed the new pads in!

Great observation!! I was running 18” as my winter wheels setup with RFT. My summer/all-season setup is on the OEM 19” non-RFT. I’d say the best way to tell if you’d enjoy having adaptive suspension is to test drive both of them, with and without, to see which one is to your liking best. Additionally, the way I see it is that EDC is another item on the list that could go wrong, that costs a fortune than a set of non-EDC to be replaced. Especially, I live in Ontario, Canada, where the city goes about showering all roads with salt to help dissolving snow and ice in which it’s certainly not-friendly towards all electronic systems on cars. p.s. I really don’t like the idea of RFT since it does yield a harsher ride even though the thicker sidewall makes a slight improvement on ride comfort. I’m running them for my winter setup simply because I got these RFT for free in a social media giveaway lol.

I’ve made a separate video about how to lift up a G20 w/ jack and jack stands. Check out the link below or check out my YT playlist. ruclips.net/video/wVIp1C_wPAA/видео.htmlsi=cykmunYPqv13WFp8

@@TandeGarage Got it, wasn’t sure we could use those points to lift the vehicle from what I read on the forums. Subscribed!

@@thehonda8290 If it gives you any additional peace of mind, the BMW service manual for the G20 specified they are both appropriate locations (the center front indented spot and the rear diff). I’ve been using these locations for the past year working on my G20 and it’s been working fine. I will note that it’s a bit strange that my front indented circle has been “further” dented upon recent inspection. From now on, I’d recommend to use a block of 2x4 on the jack to evenly distribute the load better if you try to lift the front end like I’d shown in my video.

@@TandeGarage Got it! 👍

I believe BMW Canada calls the ZTK something else, likely the Enhanced Track Package. I found a 2020 pricing guide online but I don’t know how accurate it relays the information for the Canadian market. It should be the $1500 CAD add-on track package that refers to the ZTK package known in other countries.

Thank you for the kind words! I will revisit this in 2025 when I’m gonna be doing the transmission fluid and pan again. Very likely to make an updated version of this with ISTA involved.

A local shop flushed my coolant system (I was brainless when I topped up the reservoir with the old blue coolant instead of the new green in G-series) while they were doing the oil pump. It’s likely dried-up coolant residue from them draining it, as I have no coolant loss - for now. It could also be dried-up salt that I live in Ontario, Canada, where they like to spread a crazy amount of salt to dissolve snow 🤷‍♂️

The transmission pan filter made for 8HP45 fits completely fine with our 8HP51. That said, the part number for the pan I used is 24115A13115. Good luck!

@@TandeGarage I'm planning to do this service on my 2021 m340i xdrive and I believe the model is actually 8HP51X. In the video, you mentioned the pan is different for mild hybrids (2021+) but I believe it is the same.

@@Tromas494 I believe the part# for your MH application will be 24118743462 instead of the one provided above. There isn’t a lot of info and pictures about this part; but if you manage to find a picture of the actual product, you can see there’s, what seems to be, a separate smaller pickup port with o-ring, along with a pickup tube that goes to the integrated filter. What that does - I’m not entirely sure. Would you be able to use the non-MH pan for much much much cheaper? Possibly, but I personally wouldn’t risk it. Hope this helps your journey of making the right decision that works best for you. Best of luck!

@@TandeGarage Thanks for highlighting this) Seems they might be different after all. Called my local dealer with my VIN and I was told to look for a service kit with part number 8743462 (without prefix 2411 you provided). ZF also makes those, $200 ish where I live.

@@Tromas494 Genuine BMW is always always way more expensive than OE/OEM, yet OE/OEM have been working just as good for me so far. I’d definitely go for ZF or even Hengst, which I’m using, if they share the same part#. Good luck!

I got it a year ago at 51k km. Now it’s sitting at around 79k km. The oil pump “issue” started as soon as I got the car pre-owned. Took care of it at around 60k and it’s been good ever since . In my honest opinion, if you’re going to get an M340, get a 2020 MY however you want it to spec, of course with budget in mind; as well to set aside some funds to be prepared of taking care of any potential issues, given that it’s already out of warranty when you purchase one that’s early-built. 2020 is the MY to go if you keep tuning in mind, regardless of the early-built production problems that can be easily taken care of after purchasing. Good luck car-hunting!

Forgot to mention, ZTK does include the “upgraded” oil pump even with 2020 MY as I mentioned in the video. Don’t be frustrated if you can’t get one, either it’s not an available option or just not the pre-owned you’re looking has spec’ed for. Their big brake kit comes at a hefty price to replace rotors and pads anyways 😅 Not to mention the lack of undercarriage protection for the cooling system under the car, which also can incur a hefty bill to pay for if something were to happen that punctures the radiator.

We actually do have a center lifting point. Check out my channel/my playlist about how to lift up a BMW G20. It goes over how to jack up the front end, rear end, and on all 4’s. Cheers!

Appreciate the kind words, means a lot to me! I’m not too familiar with the G80 drivetrain, so I’m going to assume it’s relatively similar to the G20 and going from there according to my experience. If you’re going to do the tcase and ZF8 fluid service at the same day, I don’t see a huge difference between which to be worked on first. However, I did the Tcase fluid change first then the ZF fluid change, as I knew ZF fluid change is typically messier with fluid splashing, dripping, everywhere; and I know I’m a clumsy person when it comes to dealing with fluid (lol). I just didn’t want to swim in pool of oil, in case I missed the drain pan. If you’re careful enough, shouldn’t matter. About ISTA, I have access to it. But I also have an ancient Windows laptop from 2013 that runs ISTA terribly slow. I prefer not to use it until I get a new laptop that can handle the load that ISTA is asking for. And yes, I’ve heard from others, as well as the comment earlier indicating ISTA can open a valve to siphon the Tcase easier. I plan on trying that perhaps next year when I service again!

And that’s exactly what happened to mine. If you have warranty still (assuming extended warranty if you took it upon purchasing), try to push for service to replace the oil pump for you. From my understanding is that when it’s measuring oil, the oil pump is outputting oil pressure out of tolerance for oil measurement (as if you stepped on gas), so the oil measurement stops. Of course this is only the theory and your service advisor may say it’s bs and turn you away. But try pushing for the oil pump replacement. The FB group that I’m in, a lot of folks got their oil pump replaced under warranty, even if it’s tuned for a small fraction of them. After that oil pump replacement, I’ve been able to measure oil every single time. Good luck friend!

@TandeGarage it's cpo warranty and I have 68k miles on it, not sure if it's still under warranty

@@Zurdo_Grease quick call to service, they will be able to verify it for you.

@TandeGarage I'll do that. Just hopefully they don't say anything about my tune. Cos my dme is locked

@TandeGarage I'll do that. Just hopefully they don't say anything about my tune. Cos my dme is locked