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Yup, that looks correct and makes a lot of sense, thanks for pointing it out. I've obviously only worked on 1st and 2nd gen up to now and not seen this development. It appears that the hole I blocked up was just a crankcase breather and that's why the Woolich software no longer has the ability to turn off the solenoid because there isnt one!

it depends on what you mean by modified.

@motorcycle_workshop internals modified. S-pipe removed and/or extra holes in the walls.

Agreed, a longer can would look the part

Got one of these with the silver Akra aftermarket exhaust, and it looks great. Any popular bike place will see the police waiting to stop you with his stubby exhaust.

@@darrengridley-haack7370 sort of. I think I maybe had the gain set a bit too high so operator error. Plus it’s a bit ‘echo-y’ in that room.

The owner of the bike wanted a video of it on the dyno so that's the only reason for making this video. He has the print off with the results and is very happy. By all means come and have your bike set up on our dyno and find out how much it makes ;)

No, mapped the fueling from scratch on the dyno. It took quite a while but excellent results.

@@motorcycle_workshop I bet that took a while. Do you have a personal preference between the Power Commander 5 or 6? Just curious in case I were to get one.

@@jeffboss4317 The main difference is that the 6 requires the new C3 software which is way better to use. But you need full access to be able to tweek the base maps.

If you are not racing the bike with TSGB then you are free to use any shocks that you like and there are a number of YSS shocks available, some 350mm and some 380mm. The longer shocks will give you more ground clearance which is good as well as making the steering faster. So it's your choice really.

Auto warm-up will operate off the same button as the pit speed limiter. If it's not working then it may not be activated in the Woolich software. Your tuner should be able to quickly connect to your ECU and change it (and make sure that the settings for warm up are correct)

@@motorcycle_workshop Thank you for taking the time to provide that information. I really appreciate it.

To be honest, you are better off ordering an ECU flash and Race Tools from you prefered Woolich dealer and have them install and set up the Race Tools at the same time.

@@motorcycle_workshop Unfortunately where I am located I'm unable to do that so it seems my only option would be to get a tune from Vcyclenut and buy the race tools from him and do the install myself I think.

That’s standard with Woolich Race Tools. Pit limiter only works in first gear, warm up only works in neutral under a certain temperature (user defined) until it reaches that temp. Very clever system.

Paul Fryer so how did you wire that? Doesn’t it clip into the harness?

@@mrexpress_r6167 , The button is part of the Woolich Racing kit and plugs into the Woolich Racing wiring harness that is installed into the bikes ECU. So when you decide to have the bike flashed and add the Race Tools option you can decide to have the button installed at the same time. It's then a software thing, using the Woolich Racing software, to add the pit limiter and auto warm up (as well as launch control, quick shifter and auto blipper)

Paul Fryer thanks for the info!

Yes definitely, the Woolich system is excellent and I've fitted many of them now.

@@motorcycle_workshop Thank you for the response friend. The only concern I have, and of course only going off what I read, is that after a few months it just quits working. I'm curious as to why that would be?

@@southpawsNfriends I've never had a problem with any of the Woolich quickshifters/blippers I've fitted over the past couple of years. They are top quality units.

@@motorcycle_workshop Thank you. I'll get one and see how it goes. Definitely won't be installing it myself, I usually work on my own, but not for this. Thanks again.

you can set it at any RPM you like. It only operates with the button pushed in 1st gear.

No sorry, you will need to upgrade to the Woolich sensor to get the autoblipper.

The bike has a full race Akrapovic exhaust system and a K&N air filter and so does not have the restrictions of the standard exhaust and air filter in place. Then, depending on the fuel mapping, you quite often get a popping noise on the overun (closed throttle). If you don't like this it can be reduced by adding fuel in the map at zero throttle settings at all revs.

@@motorcycle_workshop if the popping is excessive fuel igniting in the exhaust, how will adding fuel (ie. Disabled injector cut) reduce popping?

Sebastian Hothaza, the popping on the overrun is normally a sign that it's too lean which is why it can be reduced by adding fuel on a closed throttle. If you've ever had a bike with damaged inlet manifolds, the usual sign for this is a popping exhaust due to too lean a mixture.