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KILZ would be a great way to go. It is somewhat expensive though, roughly $23/gallon.

@@sweetsadiehoney I wish it was that cheap. :) I always prime with KILZ to seal wood I just wanted to make sure it was not bad for bees for some reason. Thank you

@ Since it's not coming into direct contact with bees there shouldn't be any issues.

Not really. Darker colors will absorb more heat, but aren't that bad. As I talk about in the video, go to several different paint stores and look for their rejects.

Great tip on flipping agains the painted side! Don't know why that hasn't occurred to me. In fact, even though you can't see it in the video, I got paint all over my pants because I accidentally leaned up against the wet boxes. As for paint, I usually try to hit the paint stores starting in the early spring looking for mis-tints and snatch them up when I can. Paint for this purpose can be old and still work. If all else fails, I've bought really cheap, low grade paint from a big box store. The boxes are Eastern White Pine according to the beelinewoodenware.com/ website. I bought their commercial grade because it was all clear wood, and only a dollar more than the lower grade. Really good stuff. This is the video I made that specifically discuss the boxes: ruclips.net/video/-EUMXJrnqiQ/видео.html

I start with candy boards in mid December through about now (mid January) IF a hive is getting light. If there are still plenty of food left on the hive I don't do either. Then, around the first or second week of February I put a quarter of a 4% Global Patty on the hive to see if they take it. Mostly because that is the time that the queen is starting to ramp up laying for spring. One thing you need to watch closely with any patties is that they are year-round breeding grounds for small hive beetles. I never place and leave a large patty on a hive for an extended period of time. SHB love to lay eggs in patties. Whatever they don't eat in a week gets pulled and tossed.

@@sweetsadiehoney Thank you

Glad you liked it. Hope the info helps!

Thanks for the tip! You’re right. The weight difference is only an indication of the approximate weight of the honey stores, not the entire box.

It is a luggage scale. Love when I can buy something that does double duty!

It's 1/4 inch. I rip them down with my table saw because it's less expensive than buying from a lumber yard or big box like Lowes or Home Depot.

@@sweetsadiehoney 1/4 seems way to thin based on the video? I am talking about the smaller/thinner pieces to hold the muslin down then the same pieces to hold down the screen. That looks a lot like 3/4 wide x 1/2 thick? White or Yellow pine or something else? Just checking. thanks

@@kzem968 In the video, they are 1/2 thick. I've actually been ripping them down a little thinner than that to lessen the chance of them building comb in between. I use 1/4 inch on my candy boards.

I thinking you're talking about the metal one at the end of the video. I make those. They're simply 2 inch square metal welded together with 1 7/8 squares inserted into the legs. They are adjustable to easily install on uneven areas. I'll do a video this winter when I make a few more.

@@sweetsadiehoney The stand for the boxes at the beginning.

@@kzem968 Oh, you mean the folding one to set things on. I bought this from a US Midwest hardware (Menards) showing you this for reference: Safe Reach® 51in Heavy Duty Aluminum Work Platform - 375 lb. Type IAA Load Rating

Thanks! Certainly working on it. My background is education. Since retirement, I continue to look for ways to share.

I've been doing a little more research on summer insulation, and am going to do a couple test hives with monitors to compare. Glad to hear you endorse the practice.

Thanks for the compliment! Much appreciated. I cut my treatment time by 75%. I used to take me half a day to do all my yards. When doing the Fall five treatments five days apart, I now set aside a hour or so. Happy Holidays to you too!

I can't tell you how many times I complete a project for all of my hives and do a head slap when I discover that I didn't plan for something (Like the access to the back). Guess that's just part of the learning cycle for me. Happy Holidays and Beekeeping!

Close to the UP of Michigan. Must be right on the line of "Pack" and "Pank"!

As I was doing this video, I was thinking, "Someone's going to notice that I need mouse guards on these hives." Good spot! Actually, these are the last hives that needed them. I redesigned the mouse guard entrance reducers I make on my 3D printer. I needed to print 38 of them, so I was putting them on as they were printed.

You're doing the right thing as a new beekeeper, and learning as much as possible before getting your first hive. I spent almost two years reading and watching before I even went into a hive. The bees have direct access to the sugar on the underside of the candy board through the screen. In the video, I show how you can put a small wood block in when you pack in the sugar, then remove it when the sugar is dry. This also gives the bees access to the top of the candy board. The access provided by the wood block is also good if you plan to eventually put a pollen patty on top as it get closer to spring. That way the bees don't have to first eat through the sugar to have access to the patty. Thanks for watching the videos! Hopefully they're helping you get ready for your beekeeping adventure!

I'm in Southwest Illinois, and usually put them on around the first of January. Some hives sooner if they feel light, but since. In Michigan you may want to do it a few week earlier.

Always had you pegged as a panker! Joy says thanks!

Yes. I have the front entrance mostly open, but with front mouse guards. This video, ruclips.net/video/NO2RQE_1lYo/видео.html , shows how I make them on my 3D printer. Obviously, very few have a 3D printer, but it will show you what I use as an entrance in the winter.

@@sweetsadiehoney Thank you very much. I thought that was the case but have seen others leaving the top vent hole open.

We are in Arkansas and I am putting together a beehive shed. It will be temperature controlled all year round. Also with pvc down spout out the finished walls in the back. Really looking forward to it. I'm not saying this is any better then anyone else's way of keeping bees. Just thought I would share this idea. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!!

I could really see soaking the wax being a smart idea if you're doing a lot of wax. Getting rid of some of the excess at first would make for less of a mess.

That's what bees in trees and crevices have done for millions of years. And it works!

Do you have pics?

My pleasure! Love the gloves. By far the best "bee specific" gloves I've ever owned. Look forward to seeing you at the expo also. I may be in need of a new jacket!

My thoughts as well.

If you ever saw the way he walked, you might think they were one in the same!

Hive Butlers are a pretty nifty tool. I fortunately don't have to transport deep frames that often. Those frames did go immediately from that yard into the freezer. I like to freeze them for at least 72 hours, but those got a full week. I also spray them down with B402 before storage. Big fan of that stuff.

Robbing mostly takes place in times of low food resources. Screens also make it more difficult for the bees to freely move in and out of their hive. In this video, when I say robbing, it's more like petty theft versus and all out assault.

Glad to provide some direction. Yes, safety is of the utmost importance.

Australia seemed to be the last stand against dealing with Varroa Mites. It was a sad day when I heard they had arrived there. Hopefully, there are enough defenses available to have a minimal impact on your continent.

That's a great way to mix a whole lot of feed. How do you keep it from molding? I've tried a lot of different storage methods, but the only long term I've found is "canning" it as I discuss in the video.

Amen, not tap water will do. No need to heat the water.

Midwest, near St. Louis.

​@sweetsadiehoney waving from Quincy, IL near Hannibal, MO