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So happy to help out! Thanks for the kind words 🙏🏻

No dumb questions James! I can see why you would ask that, as it creates more space from the sensor. Short answer is no, it doesn’t change the focal length. While technically it’s adding space, I was unable to tell the difference with focal lengths from 16mm to 200mm. If there’s a difference, it’s unnoticeable unless you’re looking under a microscope.

@ thanks Cody 👍

Glad this was helpful! It’s nice not being forced to purchase RF glass. Makes the body upgrade more feasible 🙂

That's a great question. As long as the third-party lens is EF mount, it will attach to your camera and you will be able to use it. Now, I don't know if the control ring will have full functionality with a 3rd party lens. In theory, it should still be able to control everything except for (maybe) the aperture. However, there might just be communication errors between lens and body. I cannot confirm, nor can I find any solid research to say one way or the other, but if it didn't work I would expect there to be more uproar over that! Hope this helps.

You are going to go to Manual mode and adjust the settings to how you want them to be. Once you have your camera (in Manual mode) set exactly how you want it, go to Menu > Wrench Icon > Page 6 > Custom shooting mode (C1 - C3) and hit "Register settings". Then select which C you want it to register to, up to 3. Note: This will register EVERY setting on the camera, including things like whether or not the camera beeps or if the grid shows. So make sure it's EXACTLY how you want it!

You can try firmware updates, lenses and camera bodies have them. You can find the firmware updates on the product pages usually. However, if it’s not the firmware it means it’s a communication error. Make sure the contacts on the adapter and lens are clean and not interfered with any debris. The other question I would have is have you confirmed the lenses work? Are they your lenses from a previous camera that you’ve used, or did you buy those recently as well? I would try the firmware updates (let me know if you need more help finding those) and cleaning contacts first, otherwise if that doesn’t work contact where you bought the adapter as it might be faulty. It’s unfortunate, but it happens.

Per the manual, yes. The adapter goes into the lens first, and then camera. This is for safety and legal reasons. Per most people who use the adapter, including myself, I just leave the adapter attached to the camera body and change lenses as normal.

Unfortunately, this isn’t possible.

The mount does not shift, no. I’ve had the f/0.0 thing before (not with the adapter), and that usually means the lens isn’t connected or isn’t connected properly. I’m assuming that’s due to the mount shifting as you are experiencing. Probably not supposed to be happening!

@@CodyMajeres okay cool I have one I bought off of Amazon and it moves the slightest and that’s when the 0.0 happens it only started to happen when I got my 24-70. I shouldn’t have skimped on the connector and just bought the canon connector. It would stop all my recordings if it shifted and I didn’t realize it till halfway through the day of filming.

Ahh shoot 😕 yeah you should have a better time with the new one! If you don’t, let me know, we can troubleshoot 👍🏼

That was a pain for me too. Happy to help!

I’d look into your camera model and if there’s been any issues. The adapter alone will not limit your ability to use burst, so it’s gotta be something else.

When the card is in your camera, do they show up in the preview mode on your camera? Can you review the images and see them there? If you can see them on your camera, then I would next try to find a windows computer to see if they show up there. It might be an error reading your card on Mac. I’ve never experienced this, so I’m just thinking out loud. Hoping someone is able to provide more insight!

@@CodyMajeres they showed up in the camera screen after I took the picture and when I hit play button to show the person I was shooting. Then I went back to shooting and finished. When I got back home 1hr later all the ones I shot on the ef adapter are all blank black with a question mark ❔ they don’t show up on camera or in MacBook even though the rf lens pics show up automatically I even tried a free data recovery website and it still wouldn’t show them.

Did you by any chance change lenses with the camera still powered on? From what I'm reading, that would have been a way to potentially corrupt the card.

@@CodyMajeres hey Cody. I think it was on actually. Where are you reading about that? Can you reply with a link? If that’s the case then that would be great to know that’s all it was. I have reformatted the card again so I can test and find out.

Absolutely, here's what I am referencing: www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4538461.

First and foremost this is just my option, but yes I would say if you are interested in getting back into it and have an EF 24-105, then yeah you can find mirrorless bodies for pretty cheap now. The 24-105 is a great range to have as it covers a lot of bases in photography. If I was to talk to you further about it, I’d ask what kind of Nikon setup you have (assuming you still have it). It depends what you are trying to do, but if you have that lens already it would be worth it to get a body to use it for since a lens is roughly half the cost! Hope this helps and I appreciate the kind words. Let me know if you have any further questions about this or anything else!

What lens are you using? The adapter itself will not put it into 1.6 crop but if you’re using a lens that’s made for a crop sensor, it will.

@CodyMajeres well now I know what the issue is, thank you :) Perhaps if you do another video on the subject, you could mention that bit of info for others who may not realize it and get frustrated like I did... just a thought

As I was answering this, I was thinking the same thing. Apologies on that, but happy to help clarify!

Yes, you can

At first glance you would think so, but unfortunately not. Reason being is that the adapter makes up for the difference in flange distance. For example, if an EF lens were to sit X mm away from the sensor on an EF mount camera body, it would sit Y mm away from the sensor on the RF body without an adapter. When you introduce the adapter it makes it so the EF lens sits X mm away on the RF body, so the same distance away from the sensor as it would be on an EF body, adding zero distance from the sensor. I hope that makes sense, but in short the adapter does not add any distance, it just makes up for distance lost when using EF lenses on RF bodies.

@CodyMajeres thank you. Makes perfect sense. So with a 70-200 and the adapter plus extension tubes, it will look like a telescope to get a closeup of a dragonfly.

That’s one way to solve it! What’d you switch to?

@@CodyMajeresI sucked it up and did what I should’ve done years ago. Went with the Leica M system.

A stubborn one but I knew it would help some! Happy to help!

I upgraded from the same and did not notice any aspects different with my EF glass! It all performs the same

No, it will not work. The M50 is an EF-M lens and won’t work with this adapter.

Nope! You’ll hardly notice it once it’s on, from a settings standpoint

Myself and many other people on the internet don’t understand why that is the written way. I always leave mine on the camera and treat it as if it’s just part of the camera. I’m sure they say to do it that way for legal reasons, covering their ass for any one-off mishaps, probably something along the lines of an attachment remaining on the camera causing damage after catching or snagging on something. Since it’s not technically a “part” of the camera, they will recommend to remove when not in use. But like many others, I keep it on 😃

​@@CodyMajeres Thanks!!

I was actually just seeing this yesterday 😐

I appreciate that! Yes, a crop sensor lens won’t utilize the entire sensor in the camera, so you’ll notice heavy vignetting and you will have a crop of about 1.6x. So a 16mm lens would be more like 25mm. And yes there is a loss of resolution as well. I wouldn’t recommend doing it, however if you do (I understand why it might be necessary) see if you’re camera has APS-C Mode, or if it’s able to switch from “Full” to “1.6x” so that the camera is prepared to be a crop sensor.

@@CodyMajeres your very welcome, and I deeply appreciate you and your expertise good brother 💪🏾💪🏾.. You certainly gave me all the answers I needed.. Appreciate you taking out the time and I surely will keep you updated.

Absolutely! Happy to help man 🤘🏼

Is there any specific one(s) you’d like to see compared with?

Yes

I’ve been there! Thankfully this adapter makes that possible 👍🏼

Me too 😂

100% yes, there’s nothing “wrong” with EF lenses. They just aren’t the new, shiny technology and understand they aren’t the lens of the future for Canon. But they are still quality lenses, especially the L-series EF Lenses, and it would be smart to take advantage of the lower prices due to newer technology.

Thank you! Not to my knowledge unfortunately, only to help old glass work on newer (RF mount) cameras. I wish though! Would be nice to get RF glass without needing to upgrade the body

@@CodyMajeres Thanks so much for the response. This helps a ton. I appreciate it! 👍

Yes! You have to set it up to do so in the menu, but that is an option.

Except I’m starting to lean more towards new . Sharper image . Can get in closer

Does not increase focal length

Short answer, no. The adapter in this video is for EF lenses and RF camera bodies, meaning the camera body has to have an RF mount. The T6i has an EF mount. To my knowledge they don’t make an adapter for an EF mount to accept RF lenses.

Are they Canon brand? I assume they are since you mentioned L glass, but if any are third party I’m not sure if they’ll have the same marking system. As for Canon, yes the red dot or white square should be on the lens near the mount flange. It’ll still be on the black part of the camera, the side if you will. I’m trying to explain it best I can with words, but if you search Google images for “Canon Lens Red Dot” the second result is from Digital Photography Review and shows a great photo of both the dot and the square. I hope this helps, sorry if I explained it poorly!

@@CodyMajeres The only red dot on my lens is the one that's an index mark and it's on the side of the lens and not on the flange which is what your video seemed to show (bit that it was all that clear to begin with - way out of focus/blurry and poorly lit). All my lenses are Canon.

The index mark is the red dot you’re looking for

On the lens it’s on the side. On the adapter it’s on the flange.

@@CodyMajeres To clarify - are you talking about the lens index red dot you match up to the red dot on the body for mounting? Your description isn't at all clear.

It's a cine lens

No, the M50 is an M mount. To my knowledge they do not have an RF to M adapter. There is EF to M adapter and EF to RF adapter, but none that would allow you to put RF lens on M mount camera. Sorry!

Is your camera the EOS R? If so, the EOS M adapter is not the right adapter and that could be the issue. You will need the EOS EF/RF adapter.

@@CodyMajeres It's an EOS M 6 II. you're probably right. Thank you. I'll look into it.

If you have the EOS M then I believe you have the right adapter. So that makes me think the adapter may be faulty? I don’t think a rattling sound is normal!! 😅 I’d maybe try to return the adapter and get a new one to replace it? That’d be my first action! Good luck!

@@CodyMajeres Thank you.