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Hi Andy, love your vlogs. How would i safely install the hot exhaust pipe through a plasterboard stud wall? I intend attaching a small radiator in the adjacent room to reclaim the exhaust heat. Thanks.

it will blockup

I've just got myself a heater after watching your video's. Can you not just run the heater directly from the battery but with a trickle charger connected. That way your battery is always fully charged and it doesn't matter if the power does go off 🤔

Once it's been on for 10+ mins, what temp is the final bit of the exhaust pipe that comes out of the wall?

placing the unit inside the room you intend to heat creates negative pressure vacuuming air into the room from other rooms.

0:58 This gives an entry for rats mice etc to enter the home. I would insulate that hole with a good amount of steel wool .

Brilliant. So simple as compared to similar hacks that are absolutely impossible to create. I’d like to know how much of the heat is dissipated in this run, overall. Just to know if you’re getting most of the heat out of the exhaust pipe. Great video!

So what is the heat ex part no

how you can use electric or it suport battery only?

You could work out radiator output wattage.

Fit the exhaust from the heater to one side of the rad. And the other end out the wall to outside.

Nice setup and lovely home. I just added one of these to my one bedroom cabin. When I have this running my propane furnace doesn't come on at all. Hopefully more people learn about these heaters. I know in the UK many pensioners are suffering with high heating bills. It's sad that people in their golden years have to suffer with cold.

The heater sucks air from the area surrounding the heater box. It should be inside and the exhaust outside. With the heater box so close to exhaust, you run the risk of sucking exhaust and pumping it inside. (even if it's in the black box) Plus, it sucks cold air instead of already warmed air.

Your weep hole on your muffler has to point down for draining condensation ... can't tell if thats the case ...

You can connect the heater to a larger tank. I have a 25 liter tank and it lasts me for a whole week. Kerosene in my area is £0.90. ruclips.net/video/WbL6aUIPzrg/видео.htmlsi=v-w8eh4M54nEjBNl

Do you have carbon monoxide alarms around the house. My concern with using a heater like yours would be the failure of the heat exchanger, I assume it is made in China and in my experience Chinese build quality is normally lacking. Failure of the heat exchanger could potentially introduce carbon monoxide into the house which as you must know is deadly. I used to work on domestic warm air systems which work on a similar principle and these required an annual service with one of the checks being the integrity of the heat exchanger.I don't mean to be a kill joy or seem like a know it all. The reason I have left a comment is concern for you and your family.

good idea have seen similar

😂Thank you

Try run an egr valve cooler matrix from a scrap car, you can get them for £40

The exhaust taking an extended looped-route inside the enclosure, before exiting, would probably be a good way to capture some of the waste-heat.

It’s possible that you are seeing phase change from the combustion and it’s turning into water which is then blown along the pipe and turned in to water vapour again. If I were guessing you’d be better off with a large area to vent the gas into which has a lot of external surface area (ie lots of fins like a car radiator) and a condensate escape path at the bottom. Maybe get hold of a destroyed condensing boiler? All these things come with risks though so you are taking a risk with things I know little about so I wouldn’t. Best of luck.

Don’t forget guys spray paint is cancerous so use outside so the people down the road from you have to deal with it. Under no circumstances must you use an extractor fan fitted with suitable carbon filters to protect the environment you live in.

I would recommend using a much shorter pipe with some kind of ribs/heat exchanger. too long of a pipe reduces the efficiency of the burner by delaying exhaust gases. You can extract more heat a get better burn by using a short pipe with a heat exchanger. Also i would not recommend painting it as it will release toxic organic compounds when exposed to such heat and delay the release of heat. Which is counterproductive. Just polish the pipe it will look great and release more heat.

I've been thinking about just blowing the exhaust gas through an old radiator, that or make a copper radiator from 22mm pipe before it's vented. Not got around to it yet but I am a lazy sod

unplug the tank line and extend it 2 feet or more and run it to a 5 gallon fuel container and it runs for about 3 days . i set up a fuel pump from the basement .to refuel the container from a 275 gallon tank of #2 home heating oil

Brother, I'm in the united states. Arkansas to be exact. Thank you for taking time to make my day more interesting. 👍🏻👍🏻

I fitted one in my boat I live on, it isn't a narrow boat more of a coastal type, I use around 2.5L / 3L over 24 hours running at around 1.3 but sometimes up to 2.8 and it is keeping the boat warm and so much less damp. I have a 300L fuel tank on the boat, got 80 ish litres of red fuel in it at moment and not moving so and am about to plumb it to the heater so I don't have to keep filling it up. I tend to turn it off for a few hours a day, as I am pretty much stuck on the boat near 24/7 (due to medical stuff) it has helped so much keeping the cost of heating down, I have it in the boats wheel house and 40mm tubing going to different sections of the boat so keeping it all dry and warm and I can hardly hear it when watching stuff on laptop or when in bed.

40 years ago , i've had a multimeter with 4 alkaline batteries and I recharged them more than 20 times for over 5 years ... the trick is very low charge current ( 25 mA for 48 hours at type AA ), but every recharge will also increase internal resistance so , even it will show 1,5 V with no load , it will only be able to supply small loads , nothing more than 100 mA

Zinc, not Zink

A lot of energy is being lost on the exhaust. I have bought some extra tubes, and let it heat up these tubes. At the end of the tube, I only have 20°C (ambiant temperature) and at the beginning about 200°C. So I recover all energy not only from the blower but also from the exhaust. It has now improved my heater with another 100%. The tube you add should be much bigger, so the long exhaust pipe won't be a bottleneck.

Get shed insured?

Any issue with not enough air flow for the blower motor, when the lids on?

Each 90" adds 2m of pipe. It's not condensation but unburnt diesel. It will clog up. Best to use a cast iron radiator with 25mm diameter a minmum

Alkalines recharge pretty poorly. They used to make alkaline batteries that were meant to be recharged, but even those only gave a half dozen or so recharges. With regular alkalines they lose about half their capacity each charge. We had a Mallory alkaline charger and used to get rechargable Mallory batteries for it. Later I got the BudyL charger that was supposed to recharge regular alkalines or had a switch to charge NiCd cells, which it did poorly. I've ruined a couple NiMH chargers trying to refresh alkalines. NiMH is the way to go but a few applications are still better served by alkalines. I have NiMh cells that are a decade or more old.

Put a down angle on all them angles. So the water will flow out easier with the exhaust.