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I dunno. Looks soft and rounded, no nice clean flat surfaces etc.

Wow dude another mech game. $50 for a physical copy and $15 for 1 stl file. WTF. games workshop I think is actually cheaper. Huge pass dude.

A lot of people can’t have, or won’t have, toxic printers at home. So while it has a future for sure, it will be a long time before hard plastic and other minis will go away. And a substantial portion of hobbyists enjoy building and making things with their hands, and 3d prints just don’t scratch that itch

The future is now …

Wish they had this in stock!😢

I learn a lot from your videos, I just started printing miniatures with resin - because of your experience, it would be helpful if you did a video on how you finish or prep your prints (especially how you deal with the ‘dimples’ - I have the same issues) - is it a support settings solution or is it a finishing (sanding) or a combination of both? Thanks

I mean the new models and the new game are both fantastic. Why do you need convincing?

One Page Rules is what you are looking for. Print them at home. Order physical prints. Six core systems, where the basic rules are free, and you get access to the advanced rules, forever, if you subscribe to their Patreon for just one month (though you will probably stay for much longer…).

Need non toxic resin for me to get into resin. FDM is great for terrain which I am now using.

Black site does some AMAZING games and rulesets, this one in particular is by Corey who's an awesome dude!

Do you think 3D printing is the future of Tabletop Miniatures Games?

I recently backed two awesome mecha based wargames Fractured sphere And Revelations: Battlefield I'm in talks with the first game to sell printed models for them and the second game comes with both STLs and physical models.

I love seeing more of Blacksites stuff on RUclips. Gives me a bit of personal hometown pride.

You should do a video on mini painting for people with zero knowledge on the subject.

Very cool

Sunlu is the best! Amazon has great deals, the transparent red is beautiful.

Please test version 3.0

Well thought out stuff on the modularity front. The geometric precision of this technique certainly lends itself to modern structures, but for old world/fantasy buildings I wonder if it would seem too cleanly orthogonal. I'd most likely do any paint touch-ups after assembly. I liked the unobtrusive ambient music! 😊

Great battle report. The mat looks really cool, but I think it's too open. There should be line of sight blocking terrain in the middle of the field. Since the POI tend to be fairly clustered in this game you need a lot of cover to make the game interactive. Otherwise the big mech on top of the building is going to control the field every time.

Look good!

I'm struggling with the sunlu abs like brand, will try 5-6 seconds tomorrow and see if that cure the issue, thanks for the info 👍

This resin is indeed very resistant if your miniature is dropped, and it's easy to print 😁

Hey mate! I just got my first resin printer after printing FDM for quite some time. I decided to go with this resin after I seen many reviews on its flexibility and durability and easiness to work with. I have a Uniformation GKTwo and I'm really struggling to dial in the settings to get decent mino prints! I'm doing like 1.5 - 2s exposure and I'm not sure what's wrong! I managed a near perfect callibration print and then when I try a model then the supports fail and everything sticks to the fep! Any tips and tricks for dialling in settings for this resin??

This is NOT how to rebuild a passche. All that oil everywhere you won't be spraying anything but fisheyes everywhere. You do need to lube, but in very specific places. Also, you need to crank up the air using the fan cap.

Nice job on the battle report! That was a very hilarious game with all the light frames falling like flies.

Been using the Sunlu ABS like for about 2 years and love it! I use the Black and solid grey. It's the only resin I trust.

I own the Sushi Shack and I’m in the process of turning it into something else. 😂 Wasn’t a fan of how big the front “sushi bar” portion was, so I’m simply leaving it off and using the remainder of the buildimg and a few add ons.

I personally wasn't a fan of this resin. Like all "draft" resins it makes some significant compromises in detail and dimensional accuracy. Functional parts fit together poorly, or not at all, and I also found that uncured resin had a tendency to stick to it after washing, particularly near the underside of the print (nearest the build plate) resulting in a poor surface finish in those areas. Another area that I found lacking was the strength, in my testing it was so similar to standard resin that I could barely tell the difference. It might survive handling a little better but to be honest I suspect the Wargamer water washable resin is actually a bit better suited to that job. The two areas I found it was good were price and ease of printing. It's a fairly forgiving resin that doesn't seem to react as badly to amateurish settings or support placement as standard resins do. I think for the average wargamer printing minis it will be great and might even be the best in its price category. For more demanding applications such as model railways I think it will fall a fair way short of standard resins and high-end specialty resins.

HELP PLEASE! Mars 2 pro. Standard gray works perfectly. Just got ABS 2.0 for the first time. Failure after failure! I used default settings. 60 bottom 8 layer. ABS recommended settings 35 bottom 2.5 and 3 layer. Still failure. I'm new to resen printing (except for standard resen)

those elf models are great as well ... always hard finding nice space elf models I find

What settings do u use for the base layers? Im using a photon mono x.. and some pieces stick to the fep.

I just raise and lower my build plate (10mm up then Home) up and down about 5-10 times before I do most prints just to mix the resin in my vat. It seems to work pretty well to mix the resin & dye back up.

I keep a flush cutter for supports that stays as a dirty cutter with resin residue on it. I wash it in alcohol. But it is devoted to the purpose. I think I'd just cut the supports, leave a bit of them attached to the model. Then wash and cure. Then use my flush cutter I keep for plastic to trim them. Cuts out the divots from the supports. It'd probably be a bit like trimming sprues on factory plastic minis. I'd already been using Sunlu standard to decent use. But for a bit more I'd be willing to try this for sure.

Where are you located? I’m wondering if the climate there makes a difference to where I’m at. I’m in Louisiana and I’m chasing settings constantly

That was interesting. Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot.

I really like these guys their nice n beefie

I have to get these for my grandson

A few months ago I watched this guy talk about this resin. I gave it a try, and it is now my favorite go-to resin. Sometimes I mix resins, but this stuff is great right out of the bottle. I've used it for miniatures and small fabricated parts. I've seen people try to put it down on Reditt. My advice is, I doesn't cost that much to try it for yourself.

Are you into Mech games? Have you tried Ignition core btw? :D

SUPER Love this game. I've painted a bunch of the Aurochs!

I'm using abs like 2.0 with the Saturn 3 Ultra using 3 seconds exposure and 0.05 layer height, no problems with prints yet

I’ve switched as well and I love it.

Have you tried elegoo's new and way cheaper than sunlu ABS-Like 3.0? I believe it came out around febuary. It's base price not on sale is $18 per kg on amazon US

I love using sunlu but was wondering where to find a resin profile for my mars 4 ultra

Have you tried this "new batch" of sunlu abs like? it have different sticker on the bottle. Is the settings still the same with the old one? I used the old abs like, and i really like the detail. But i'm scared i should tweak my settings again if this "new batch" change their formula Thanks in advance

I switched to Sunlu after watching your prior videos and have loved it, so thank you! However, I just noticed Elegoo came out with a 3.0 ABS-like that is much cheaper than the 2.0 and now near the price of Sunlu ($41 for 2kg vs $40 for sunlu). Any chance you have checked out the new 3.0 elegoo resin or have plans to check it out?

Keeping in mind what it is (a very affordable product) I'm actually quite impressed by Sunlu ABS-like! I like the warm "Dark Grey" color and it prints just fine. My only "problem" with it is the manufacturing date format: "G15C D04A"? Any idea how to read it?

Thanks for the info on the Q-tips. I always had trouble with little fibers

They really turned out nice I love the pop of color