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Oh no.

@@alexandremoreau8680 were you able to fix it?

@@oldoneswithdice haha not yet i am playing with the 3 corridor without magnet haha

What I did was glue the three magnets to a thin piece of plastic. The plastic came from a blister pack packaging. Once the magnets were solid on the plastic I glued the plastic to the 3 space wall lining the magnets into the holes. Be sure to line up the polarity.

They are more Titanfall than powered armor. I'm not sure how the pilots actually fit in the some of the frames frames. The ferret is one of my favorite and i think a pilot would almost need to be curled into a fetal position to fit. You could definitely use other models for the frames. I think Tau Suits from 40k would work very well. The main thing is that the movement templates are designed to work with 60mm bases. You could go a bit large but might not work as smoothly.

@oldoneswithdice awesome thank you! I've got some similar mecha from other STL makers that are Titanfall adjacent so that sounds perfect!

PWM is a setting for intensity of the light, not wavelength. I would recommend leaving PWM to the default setting. To the best of all resins react to the 405 nm wavelength or very close.

@@oldoneswithdice thanks, I'm a noob to resin printing. Yeah I changed the exposure time and it worked out great. Left the PWM alone.

I used white glue to glue the pieces together.

Thank you

@@Nazgub Thanks

My sleeves cards don’t fit back in the box. =x

@@Bikeadelic what are you using?

No this one is head to head. One player with a John wickesque character while the other player has a higher number of models with different levels of training.

Search for kids magnetic blocks. I'm in the process of painting them and adding details to make them look more like ship interiors.

@@oldoneswithdice nice painted or not still looks cool

Wait hold up now hold on Something ain’t right …. Hoe many pieces is this ? How many sets would i meed to buy?

There are quite a few manufacturers. I picked up a large set of eBay. I found a set on Temu that just had the 3x3 squares and 3x3 triangles.

@@nohashtagshere4116 ruclips.net/user/liveUSiLL-lnB64?si=GB37jCXSqN5vXXFi

Sorry, how is the smell? I had a hard time dealing with the Elegoos resin smell.

@@abstractfate6104 ruclips.net/user/shortsFZ1TKT4CgO4?si=uCVuOUrcKvPg7Mh3

@@abstractfate6104 The model in the short is about 8 inches tall. I was told it survived being knocked off a table onto a cement floor at Gencon. I've found the resin to work well for larger models.

@@oldoneswithdice awesome, been thinking about getting sunlu abs when my printer arrives, then I remember I have a whole setup I still need to buy just to heat and ventilate 😂

@@heathgray1277 yes that is correct. Though if a player does they are delaying their vent cycle. Points are scored in a player's vent cycle.

@@oldoneswithdiceYeah I knew it wasn't an optimal tactic, I was just making sure I was reading the rules correct. That you can stretch out your turn while the other player hits their vent cycle. At first this kinda threw me off because it is so different than other games.

You're very welcome.

It's a "Space Elf" transport. Lol This particular file came free off the purple site. It's since been taken down. I have purchased some of the Ghamark proxies and they printed perfectly.

ive never used 2.0 - i found this video by trying to see what the diff was between 2.0 and 3.0 ABS. i normally use SUNLU ABS on 80% of my prints. but i have a Halot Mage PRO and no issues. here are my ABS settings: 6 burn-in layers, 6-8 trans layers. with 35um (0.035"). 15~20 sec Bottom layer (depending on size), 2.0 ~ 3.0 sec Norm Exp (depending on wall thickness) 10mm Lift Dist, 1mm/s Bott/Burn speed, and 6mm/s Norm Speed. also - have you tried Sanding your build plate ? it helped. i used 800 grit - just to get top layer cleaned up. it doesnt need deep cuts to bond to - like textured FDM plates do. try using LIGHT OFF settings. i use: 1.5s Before Print (idea is to let air bubbles escape) 1.5s After Print (to let layers fuse and to cool off bcuz ABS gets really hot) 0.5s After Lift (to let Z-motor slow down before changing directions)

They really do. I personally think they are putting out some of the best table top games right now. The next one I'm looking forward to is updated Violent Dark.

@josephgardner6034 mostly Applebarrel craft paint. I used low cost craft paint for most terrain. Except for some Pro Acryl Ivory. I didn't have any ivory from applebarrel

Interesting. I had this same problem with Elegoo's ABS. After that I stopped hollowing prints. The costs savings didn't seem worth the risk of uncured resin leaks and popped prints.

@@oldoneswithdice totally agree

I should have some arriving later this week.

@@oldoneswithdice i like it a lot. i got "Black", but it is not Black-Black. its more like SMOKE-Black and fairly translucent under 0.125"(3mm) thick. but Over 0.150" it starts to become more opaque. so it looks cool with under/back-lighting on hollow models. it printed very nicely. im fairly new to Resin printing and have only been using Resin since Jan2024 (FDM for over 1yr now), so i have NOT tried Elegoo ABS 2.0 yet. but im curious as to how diff they are (if any). i havent seen a lot of reviews about 3.0, but seems some people just dont like it. not sure why. i had no issues. 6 layer burn-in, 6 trans layers, 15~20 sec Bottom layer (depending on size), 2.0 ~ 3.0 sec Norm Exp (depending on wall thickness) with 10mm Lift Dist, 1mm/s Bott/Burn speed, and 6mm/s Norm Speed. but can run all the way up to 14mm/s After Trans Layer with 2-5mm thick walls. im using a Halot Mage PRO. i love this printer. i get good results with my Creality LD-002H also.

@@NinjaBonez thanks for the info. I have a bunch of resins I'm working on reviews for. Hopefully I can get the test prints done next week.

It's a great game. Next think you'll have more cars than you know what to do with.

@oldoneswithdice Thats the hope! I'll have to build a shelf to put them all lol

@@KillaSoda I have put together the models for the Spearhead force. I was impressed with them. I really like the Spearhead game mode. Lots of fun mechanics in there.

That's awesome. Are you going to paint them up as Skaven or go with a Tyranid paint scheme?

@@oldoneswithdice I have not decided on paint yet or if I want to spend the money and kitbash in more tyranid bits like mutations randomly throughout the Skaven. It's a project I'll tackle after I finish my squatted 10,000 point deathwatch army that is 70% built 😭

Buy the models you like. Some factions in 40k are more competitive than others. Any faction can beat any other faction, though. If you want to start 40K the combat patrol boxes are a good starting point. If you are looking for quick games consider OPR's Grim Dark Future. It's free for the base rules , they have versions of the 40k factions and and a free list builder. I find it a more enjoyable and quicker play experience. it's also much more scalable. 40k is designed to be "balanced" at 2000 points.

Slapchop is definitely going to be one of the test paint jobs. Though I think just a Zenithal might get me a similar result in less time. We shall see?

@@JonSteitzer these came from their Kickstarter. They are amazing with so many little details.

@@thebritishengineer8027 if you can maybe look into less flexible resins. It seems we trade out some of the details for flexibility. Also going lower on your exposures times can give you more details at the cost of an increase chance of print failure.

@@oldoneswithdice Cheers I will try that tonight..

@@cwtjones it's on my list of resins to test. I definitely prefered the Sunlu abs-like over the Elegoo Abs like 2.0. I'm curious what Elegoo is bringing to the table with 3.0