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@@brandontaylor-usedon3114 in scouting forums and the FSM diagrams, I've seen setups showing it both ways, and Chrysler did change up a few things like this depending on the year. Chase yours by following the front AW4 port up and through the line and see if it goes to the aux cooler first, or the radiator inlet, and that should prove how yours is configured.

@ the feed does go straight into the aux cooler! And when it returns. I can’t quite track it.. and it definitely doesn’t return straight back to the return to the transmission.. so my only guess is the main rad is the middle man between that return from the auxiliary cooler and the return that I find going back to my transmission

@brandontaylor-usedon3114 right, the theory in routing it through the radiator secondarily is that it will stabilize the output temperature of the cooled fluid so the transmission doesn't get over-cooled. Not an issue for desert climates but can be for those of us with cooler seasons.

@@aldoyeo6704 multiple sizes as described in the video. I used a wire spool kit from Harbor Freight.

These shots were difficult both for subject matter and time of day. The sun was high and there were many random stipple patterns and parallel lines. The result was intense moiré (aliasing) shimmer in some scenes. I used editing hackery to calm down the drone footage but the result was a blurrier affect. After conferring with another drone videographer I concluded I have experimenting to do with ND filters and recording settings, but it won't fix everything, while software correction techniques are either arcane or expensive. Even so, I was glad I sat on this project until I had drone footage to include, because the scale of the canyon is impossible to comprehend without it.

Provided you can spare an hour or two to do the work, it's just $20 parts, and a $12 quart of the cheapest motor oil on the shelf to flush the filings. If it works, you're done. The oil pan replacement costs an order of magnitude more than that.

@@marioq2759 as constructed, it will outlast the Jeep. But I probably need a new vacuum solenoid for my HVAC damper door, because in spite of having the reservoir available it's not holding very well under acceleration.

@ Thank you for your creativity it has inspired me to want to build my own. I just tried your method today for my Jeep Cherokee. Instead of using calculations. I simply used water instead. I cracked open my XJ air reservoir and dumped the water into your setup. I then realized that I was coming up too short. I am trying to figure out the maximum vacuum psi rating build up for each vacuum hose in a jeep Cherokee. I am wanting to run 3 homemade vacuum canisters. 1-Cruise control 2-HVAC 3-For help with the brake booster If you can come up with a PSI vacuum reading for each hose it would help out a lot.

@@samquintrall3740True. Only downside is the whole works has to come back out when working on some other front end components, or the front end clip has to be disconnected and brought forward.

@aaronvienot yep it is a downside 😅 had to do it a few times.

@@SamEbby not sure what you mean. Replace it with what?

@@2dollarrip571 take a long look at your radiator and engine mounts, if you haven't done that yet. Usually when the engine moves that much, they're done.

@@The_Sword_Rules it does work, but I find that it's a fidgety design with inconsistent response. Most vehicles made since the mid-2000s use a body control module in the switch cluster to monitor switch engagement times and manage the operation response, and give a smooth, even experience that the XJ's old system can't manage. Also, have you taken apart your driver door harness and looked for cracked or broken wires in the pass-through yet? That also causes door functions to randomly fail and I have a later tutorial video for that one.

@@aaronvienot Thanks for the info on the BCM. I did not realize it managed the window switch. I have repaired my door wiring harnesses already, maybe about 4 years ago. All the controls were wonky and sometimes closing the passenger door would cycle the power locks LOL. Since I "finished" the refurb on mine, the only thing left is to take out the gauge cluster and check\clean all the connections and wiring. About once ever 2-3 days, the tachometer and speedometer will drop out and the airbag indicator lights up. If I smack it on top of the dash, it all comes back on :) I'm thinking a thorough cleaning behind there will fix it, along with a ground connection cleaning.

@The_Sword_Rules yeah, some people put shims behind the plugs on the dash that the cluster snaps into, just to tighten up the connection. I've had it happen a few times but it's not been serious enough for major intervention, yet.

@@aaronvienot Thanks for the shim idea, I've not heard of that previously. Maybe I'll record the repair and if it turns out interesting enough, I'll put it up on my channel.

@@mandaparaeu typical LSD replaces the full carrier assembly, and the ring gear bolts to the LSD. If the LSD is still working I would keep it, myself, but if it's fried or just really want the TorqLocker you will need to source the carrier from another axle, swap the ring gear over, do all the usual gear pattern checks...

@@aaronvienot My LSD is not working. if I only change my LSD carrier to open and keep the original parts of LSD like ring gear, will it works?

@@mandaparaeu you do need the existing ring gear and a compatible open carrier with the thrust washers, but the risk is that the carrier may not fit in the exact same position as the LSD. If that happens, the bearings need to be re-shimmed to make the gear pattern line up correctly. Re-shimming an axle is beyond the capability of many DIY mechanics (including me) and the shop labor is expensive. It might actually be cheaper to buy a good condition, open-carrier axle from a wrecker, clean the differential housing and install the TorqLocker on a work surface, and then swap axles. If your existing rear axle is a Dana 35 it is nearly worthless, if it is a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 44 you can probably sell it and maybe advertise the LSD as a rebuildable core.

@@samuelkim4187in my application the backlights in the HVAC cluster are already operated by the headlight switch, just like the dash cluster. The (+) and (-) I tied into are switched OE bulb locations so my light mod is also switched.

@@robertmontgomery3892 if you can find exact replacement connectors that's the best overall option, but it does require sourcing the connectors, using about 5 times as much wire, and doing a whole mess of pin crimps with a pin crimping tool kit. (Which I do have, but not everyone does). The splice approach is the most accessible to a general DIY hobbyist. IME it's also the method that is most often done wrong and leads to more gremlins later, so I wanted to show ways of building secure splices.

@@pdub1247 have not done that one, myself. But you're going to be removing the handle assembly by disconnecting it from this latch mechanism and then removing the handle from the door for inspection, repair if possible, or replacement. I've heard some people customize a ZJ Grand Cherokee handle for XJ use so they don't have to deal with the thumb button.

@@christiegroves On the refreshed XJs (97-01) the OE speaker has a Chrysler-style plug body molded into the speaker, and the door harness has a snap plug that fits into it. The"speaker plug pigtail" for the aftermarket speaker is an aftermarket accessory that can be ordered from places like Amazon, eBay, Parts Express, or Crutchfield.

@@Onecooliceman seller o bought from is long gone, and sellers of this stuff rotate frequently. Better to search eBay or Amazon by keywords ("XJ Jeep door seal") and then look closely at the side profile of the seal the seller claims to have. Or, use reputable sites like Rock Auto, Quadratec, and Summit Racing (but pay a little more).

@@ernestasn around here it is commonly called "fire-sleeve" and shows up on eBay with that name. I think I was using material with a 5/8-inch outer diameter (around 16mm or so). But any kind of rubber or silicone hose would work, if it has room for the wire and can flex in the limited space available between the body and the door.

@@Ad-kv8he only one way to find out. I haven't gone down that rabbit hole.

Labor-wise, it' not economical to hire out this work. You got to do it for sheer love of the hobby 🙂

I can't speak for every variant of the 4.0, but that's not a PCV valve on ours. It's just an open brass fitting that provides a hose attachment.

@@Mauser1965 it will definitely be different than what I did here, as the valves and seals I used apply to 96-01 XJs and (I think) the 4.0 ZJs.

We eliminated the vacuum ball, the source of vacuum is the intake manifold and it is connecting over to the relocated vacuum reservoir using factory hard lines. We attached at the "T" connector by the HVAC feeder.

@@aaronvienot thanks..... was specifically asking about the ball for a reason. Had my balls hoses (lol...... sounds like a comedy routine) tagged with permanent ink (pulled the engine).. but; SURPRISE- all the tags faded. and became unreadable . found the answer elsewhere. big ID nipple is vacuum source. Small ID is vacuum device

@@dougisaak3209 if those 8 "D" cells are in series, you can skip the DC-to-DC converter. Also, try searching "12V LED halogen replacement" online or at a home improvement store. There are quite a few options for high-output LEDs and those 8 "D" cells should be good for driving a higher load than the small landscape light I used in the video.

@@aaronvienot Only issue will be hacking the socket from the weird compact fluorescent lamp. Thanks for the tips on what bulb to look for.

@@DonaldKnepp yes, I have a weak vacuum in my blend door as well. System tends to pull in a little warm air from the lower vents when the AC is running and I'm under hard acceleration, or when traveling over 60mph. Still needs investigation.

@@Mauser1965 I used butyl sound mat and a few other odds and ends, shown in my interior rehab video. Those are about the limit of what I feel is worthwhile in an XJ cabin, there's no getting away from the "wall of noise" that results from driving a flying brick.

@@mordjeder try searching "Jeep 6503204" on eBay or Amazon, and you might turn up something similar. The green ones are low quality and break after one installation in my experience, but they're cheap and they work.

@@dunskidoodle it ought to help, but the biggest thing was getting the full suspension updated (springs sag over time, if that isn't addressed, the bump stops get over-used and go soft again). And my spring job used +1" HD springs that replicate the Jeep UpCountry package, so that added more margin, too.

@aaronvienot I understand that, our vehicles are close to 25 years old. I have not upgraded springs yet but would suspect they are a little tired after all that time and 340,000 miles. Thank you for your response, good info!