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Thanks for the heads-up! That looks like it is correct. They had a 20 year run. They list a new supplier Connectubes.com and they look like they have the same system and probably supplied BBQ Coach.

The rafters are 6' long total, they cantilever 4' out front and approx 18" in the back. The design was mainly for aesthetics. If you want to go a little farther out front, add a little length to the back to balance.

Sorry about the music volume. Something has happened with the video on RUclips since it was posted. The original has lower music levels.

To purchase the complete kit with all the added cut out modules for the grill and doors, etc. had a total of $1,500.00 including shipping.

That didn't come off as well or as quick as I had thought it would. I started trying some solvents like lacquer thinner and a scouring pad. This worked for the bulk. I then used a wire brush to get it to where it was in the video. It's mostly gone, but there is a shinier spot where it was on the side.

The width of the pad, front to back, would depend on your specific kitchen design. Our frame was 31.5" wide and the backsplash added another 2.5". Adding a little for buffer and to add an edging radius to the concrete, we formed and poured the pad to a width of 35". The decking boards kept the frames up off the concrete and adding the stone veneer "hid" the pad from sight. For thickness, with proper reinforcement I believe you could get by with a 4" pad. The pad we installed was 6" thick. With the minimum load from the concrete supplier it was no additional cost to go this thick.

Thank you. It was some work, however it was real fun to build.

Thanks! The countertop is similar to standard kitchen cabinets. It has a finished height of 36". The backsplash framing is 48" tall before installing the cap stone. These were the sizes of components I bought. If you were to cut the backsplash studs to your own desired height, I would think about making them a little taller, anywhere from an additional 3" to more. It would give more space for installing the outlets.

I’m wondering the same. Did you do yours yet?

Yes- I ordered some incredible wet set brackets from Concrete Pier Systems. They custom made them for me. They are 18” .25 plate steel with 4 18” rebar welded to the bottom. If you search CPS system you can fine a few videos. I dug my footers about 40” deep, set the brackets and my posts are rock solid. Couldn’t be happier.

Glad you found some solid brackets! The posts on my project turned out rock solid. Depending on costs and availability, either the straight up steel angles, or the pier brackets mentioned here work great.

Hi Randy. It is actually just sitting on the concrete. With the weight of the entire system, it's not moving at all by itself.

Hi Mike, The countertop video is in the editing queue right now. We had to speed up the install/finishing on the pour day due to incoming weather. With this there are a couple of important steps that didn't get on video so I need to mock up a quick concrete pour to video them. I'll bump it up in the list. Thanks for watching!!!

@@timshomeworkthank you for the heads up. I’ll keep an eye out.

Thanks for watching David. I am in the process of putting together a video on design considerations for outdoor kitchens. This will go over some layout options. Basically you can fit the rough layout to your space and then construct the final layout based on the module sizes available from the vendor of the steel modules. You could also fully customize your kitchen by purchasing the steel studs from a building supplier. The vendor I used for the steel modules was BBQ Coach. They have been around for a long time and have great options. The studs are basically installed on 16" centers to meet the cement board installation requirements. On the modules with kitchen components (grills, doors, sinks, etc.), the "cut-out" locations were first figured. I used scale sized cut pieces of corrugated boxes to move around and find where the grill and other items' locations looked best. After the accessory cut-out parts were installed, I simply filled in the rest of the sections with studs that were 16" on center or less. Please let me know if you need any additional information.

Hi Michael. Great question. Zinc galvanizing is an interesting process. Though there will show a ring of rust in the center of the drilled hole where there is totally bare metal between the inside and outside layers of galvanizing, these two layers of zinc will actively work to prevent the spread of oxidation (rust). While there should not be an issue, if concerned about any rust, one could shoot the holes with a quick burst of cold galvanizing compound that applies out of a can like spray paint. Good Luck with your Gardening projects

The drain plug on the tank I used had a large hex shaped profile. I used a Channellock pliers to remove the plug. There are other styles of plugs on other brand tanks. One I have seen has a square "hole" in the center that fits a 3/8" socket driver.

@@timshomework ok thanks!

That would definitely be an option. Could be a topic of a future video. The goal of this video was to get into Raised Bed Gardening in a very quick and simple manner.

Thank you! With just the two posts supporting the pergola, I wanted to make sure this was sturdy and had a balanced look visually. The posts are 6x6, the cross beams are 2x10, the rafters are 2x8 and the purlins are 5/4 deck boards ripped in 1/2. This project used cedar. If one was considering a using treated lumber, it would be good to find materials that have dried well after the treatment so there is less chance of twisting or warping as the material finishing drying.

Really nice job!, love it, how tall is it?, it looks amazing!!...I would love to duplicate if possible .

@@danielcelis6772 Thank you! The posts are 10' tall, the rafters are set at 9'.

The taller tank would have more soil mass to hold water. I picked it because I liked the proportional look versus the smaller tanks. Being taller, it also brings the garden up closer to work in. As far as the drain pipe, I'm guessing this is referring to the conduit for running the irrigation supply tubing into the garden. It's put in to give a more finished look to the project. One could just run the tubing up the side of the tank if they wanted to.

Thanks for you comment. Zinc galvanizing is an interesting process. Though there will show a ring of rust in the center of the drilled hole where there is totally bare metal between the inside and outside layers of galvanizing, these two layers of zinc will actively work to prevent the spread of oxidation (rust). While there should not be an issue, if concerned about any rust, one could shoot the holes with a quick burst of cold galvanizing compound that applies out of a can like spray paint. Good Luck with your Gardening projects!

Hi Kevin, The main reason for the hardware cloth is like a filter fabric to keep the rocks and any other items from falling into and plugging the holes. I think it serves a purpose as an insurance, however it would work just fine if you didn't use the mesh.

Thank you!

Hi Chris, In our area they are easily available at agricultural supply stores. The ones I have found start around $130 USD and go up from there. Amazon and other sellers have raised bed kits that look like the stock tanks, without bottoms, that bolt together so the shipping costs are reduced. These start in the $50 USD range. Hope this helps! Cheers!

Thanks for you comment. Zinc galvanizing is an interesting process. Though there will show a ring of rust in the center of the drilled hole where there is totally bare metal between the inside and outside layers of galvanizing, these two layers of zinc will actively work to prevent the spread of oxidation (rust). While there should not be an issue, if concerned about any rust, one could shoot the holes with a quick burst of cold galvanizing compound that applies out of a can like spray paint. Good Luck with your Gardening projects!

The tank I used is nominally 6x2x2. Depending on where you look, it is rated from 144 gal. to 159 gal. I really like the look of this size tank, however you could easily go with the 1ft deep ones to save filling soil. The 6 ft length has worked out real well for laying out the plants.

@@timshomework thank you

The best thing about this system is how simple and easy it is to put in. Even factoring in a little time to order the parts and get the tools together, and it will still be a quick installation. Once the drip tubing is in, it will continue to payoff over time in ease of taking care of the garden watering!

Thanks for the comment. We have found this set up to work really well. Good luck next year! You should have great success.

You could use the step drill for drilling the bottom holes. I had the standard bit, and typically think of the step drill more for enlarging holes, vs. starting holes, however it would work. The step drill possible wouldn't drill as fast, but I don't think it would be much of an issue with as thin as the tank material is.

I have not noticed that the metal is any hotter than normal. It has not had any negative affect on the plants. Good luck with your garden!

Though the hardware cloth could be considered optional, the main purpose of it is to keep the drain holes clear. Without the mesh it is possible that the rocks or any other debris may shift or try to escape the holes, thus causing them to plug from drainage.

@@timshomework True. Thanks.

Thanks Jeff! Good luck with this gardening season!

The bricks I used for the base were retaining wall blocks that I had left over from a landscape wall project. They are Rockwood's Colonial Classic blocks, however any retaining wall block would work great. You could use concrete wall blocks (CMU) or stacked pavers, however I like the "finished" look that a retaining wall block gives as a base. Good luck with your garden build!

@@timshomework Thanks for your quick reply Tim!!!

Tim, one more questions! Dimensions of the cattle fence you used? Curious how high you went - we're planting tomatoes and strawberries. Thank you.

@Stuart Brodie Our cattle fence is 5' high from the soil surface. This height has worked out great for the plants and I can comfortably reach the entire surface. Remember to add in the depth of your tank to the overall height before cutting the fence. 😀

Hi how did you keep the fence in? Just the weight of the soil good enough to keep it steady or did you secure it somehow and i missed it? lol

Hi Randy. The conduit 'snorkel' is to run an irrigation supply tube from the ground, into the tank and to the soil surface. You can see a quick video on installing the complete drip irrigation here: ruclips.net/video/wV3VOtcS62w/видео.html

Thank you for your comment!

That could be an option. There are also number of great videos out there on making a tank garden self-watering. My concern is if the lower level "never" drained out, what would the condition of that wet mixture in the bottom turn into and would it speed up deterioration (rust out) of the tank bottom? Maybe they would not be issues either? Thanks for your comment, it's great to hear other ideas!

The poly tank should work really good. These tank raised beds (with floors) are great for areas that have burrowing friends on the property!

Glad we could help! These will definitely speed the process of getting the new beds up and growing.

Thanks Matt!

Thanks for the comment. Working on a planting video right now.