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Shoot... Did you end up having to drop the exhaust?

@ we tried, we were able, with help of my buddy, using 4 hands to get the filter and gasket out, new ones in. Never again!

Some jobs fall in that category. Glad to hear it all worked out this time! Thanks for sharing

So glad to hear this video helped! We appreciate the feedback

Yes! Those help maintain proper torque across the pan to prevent leaks and warping.

Play with angles, use some dielectric grease, use a long pick or screw driver to help move it around and pry/wedge stuff, or loosen or remove that condenser cover if all else fails.

Hmmmm. 95 was a changeover year we believe. Try to stick with 93-95 if you have a 12 pin connector, or a late 95 or 96 if you have a 13 pin connector (talking about the wiring harness).

Honestly, that’s a skill based question.

Great question! We generally turn the tire away from the side you're working on so you have more room to work in there!

@NiceGuysGASS great gonna tackle it tomorrow hopefully everything goes well bought the specialty tool from harbor freight just incase

Thanks! What else would you expect from the Nice Guys??

Excellent! Thanks for letting us know! Hopefully that helps future endeavors for our viewers!

Toyota has sworn all of their employees to secrecy, but rumor has it Amazon built tiny robots powered by Apple... Just the rumor we heard.

Shoot! Can't recall. Check Rock Auto or Amazon!

Hmmmm, maybe. Particularly if there's a body lift as well as suspension.

Happy to help!

This is the highest compliment we have ever received. Much appreciated 👍

As long as the housing is good, you can rebuild it.

Thanks for the feedback!

It was absolutely awful. Good Luck!

@NiceGuysGASS i got it, managed to get one side done, and couldn't stop then, lol As a shop owner, I'm really not sure how to charge for the job...in theory, it shouldn't take anywhere as long as it did...but at the same time I'm a competent mechanic with 30 years red seal....i damn near used a stepper bit and enlarged the hole in the axle ...then again i contemplated a few things during the job...one was wondering what a 9-5 job would be like lol

You're welcome!

Thanks for the tip!

Oh no!! Good news, Dorman sells a multi pack that will have your size, we'll see if we can track down a link...

amzn.to/3DqkWg1

@@NiceGuysGASS thanks so much!

True!

That seems unhelpful!

We can’t say for sure, but the model hasn’t changed much, so best guess is yes. No guarantee.

Yes, usually 2 to 4 inches will accommodate standard control arms.. at least in our experience

There is always the possibility the parts you purchased are defective, new parts just aren’t as good as they used to be. What manufacturer did you use? We would say you should probably go to another alignment shop and see what they say.

Here you go! We put them in the video description too! amzn.to/3ZFnyzj amzn.to/3Ztkcy7

Hmmm, please elaborate

@NiceGuysGASS @ 11:22 you could see that the gasket location is dry which mean it doesn't cause leak, while the Hoses are soaked with oil

Nice.

You don’t have to replace the seal unless it leaks. You don’t need a tool for it. You can use the axle nut socket.

Subarus have two notorious problems - weak transmissions and head gaskets. You should probably have the dealer replace the tranny if it is still under warranty. It should never click.

@@NiceGuysGASS yeah, i think the head gasket issue is long over. But the transmission suck. This trans has the shittiest synchros I have ever felt. 1rst gear is too low too. 4.11. should be like 3.8. Subie says that the front diff is open, yet it skips in my driveway and parking lots like an LSD is in there. I have no drivability issues though. It's under warranty, and I also have the extended factory Subaru warranty bumper-to-bumper X 10 years. I did take it to them, and they said it's normal. Yeah, OK. If it is, I'd say it's the center diff. LSD clutch packs disengaging.

More than likely it was a full kit. Just make sure the dust seal is included.

Thank you!

Thanks for watching and glad we could help!

Well dang

They always get pretty hot You should use an infrared thermometer and take a measurement to see how hot it's actually getting instead of just going by color if it is truly overheating it could be plugged

@NiceGuysGASS I'll check ,muffler smell gas raw

Do you have a misfire? That's be a lot of unburned fuel to get it to heat up that much. Could also be a bad o2 sensor causing a fuel dump. Check your MPG by hand.

Seems like you missed a word or two, but here we go. 1. Check your manual for the oil type, but it is typically an 80 of 90 wt gear oil. 2. There is no retention pin, the cv axle is held in with a c-type retention clip in this example. 3. Not sure what you are asking about the drivers side shaft.

1. Did you confirm the new part looks like and matched the new part? 2. Did you buy and replace the seal? If so, is it flush with the case? If not, replace the seal. 3. Check the c-ring on the old and new axle. Make sure they are similar and exist. 4. It may take some force to get the axle to seat. 5. The criscross pattern you mentioned may be indicative of an improper part. As much as we love parts stores, they often send out the wrong parts, even when you buy them from dealer service centers.

@@NiceGuysGASS Hi - Thank you for the timely response! I confirmed the general shape and length. I confirmed there is the ring and they look identical. The only real difference I notice, other than color, is the machined pattern. If that is certainly something that could cause an issue, then I'm fairly confident that's the issue. I replaced the seal, and it looks flush. Is there an aftermarket part that you would suggest? I believe I have read that TRQ is solid with their axles, if you have an opinion on that. The car has about 200k miles and generally won't last much longer. I'm trying to do this as economically as possible. Parts that fit and are safe are preferred. Longevity isn't even a consideration since the engine will give out within 10k, methinks.

It would be surprising for the engine to fail at 200k. Subarus, if properly maintained, last well beyond 200k, and that’s why you see so many still on the road. More than likely, it’s just being fussy, and you’ll have to fiddle with it. The c-clip is very tight and if the axle is not properly aligned, it may be binding. Try taking it out and putting it in again. Gently rotate it until you feel the splines (grooves on the end) align with the differential (transmission). Then give it the old heave-ho!

Happy to hear it went well!! Thank you for sharing your success story

The way we did it was align the gasket, the housing, then slowly and evenly bolt everything together. Once it's snug, give it the old eyeball check, then torque it down... We might have done it wrong, but it's been holding up for a few years!!

Nah, You?

@@NiceGuysGASS not much

There was nothing in the manual for this model about any changes to run with a spare. You should however make sure your spare is in the rear.

Yes they removed that, fix the crosstreck those things break because you didn't replace all four tires at the same time

It's not a horrible job, double check the wiring when you do it and maybe use wire nuts for the test connection before you button everything up! Bonus, you could attempt to repair that digital cluster and switch back later!

Awesome!

Appreciate the comment! There's more magic to come, we ain't done yet!!

Nope, ours had enough flex in the hanger.

No, you do not.