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Dreamblaster was bought from serdaco, I don't think it's an open project.

This is the listing from one of my orders, make sure to pick the 4pin version. Colour is more a matter of preference. Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! NOK21.00 19%OFF | 1.3" OLED Module 1.3 inch Display Module White/Blue 128X64SPI/IIC I2C Communicate Color 1.3 Inch OLED LCD LED Display Module a.aliexpress.com/_EyVR38t

@@TEBLify Thank you heaps.

@@TEBLify Assembled, set up and working like an charm:) Thank you.

Yes, Batocera is on my list to check out things further - just need to get hold of a mini-PC as there things that won't run on a Pi.

That would be fine. It should only see 5v, so 25 would be plenty - it may mean that it's physically larger in size, but would work just the same.

@@TEBLify It is 8mm in diameter, same size as circle on the boar so it will be perfect fit:)

At some point we all probably need to start looking at SSDs to keep things alive as spinning disks eventually stop - well - spinning. OnTrack was endlessly confusing to me as a child, but sometimes the hobby is about conquering old foes 😅

@@TEBLify or just get the click of death or make other terrible noises

Happy new year Hans!

I've never had a problem with those, is there a purpose to changing them beyond aesthetics?

Hei Hans Petter 😀

I think that's a great project, especially now that the mechanisms themselves have started to disappear from the markets completely. Think I'd build put direct 1581 replacement into a case, mainly just because there's so much room in them - would be weird, but fun 😅

I believe there are soundfonts available that'll approximate those, as to how accurate they are - you'd probably need to talk to someone with a better ear for such things than I have.

It is one of the ways of using on an old PC, an alternative is a soundcard with either 5-pin MIDI ports in a drive-bay expansion or via the gameport. By building up an extras board you can use it via 9-pin serial port. On a modern system you can use it with USB MIDI adapter.

Alternative ways of assembly, if front panel is not installed - switches for controlling it can be installed here instead. J4 was an option for earlier revisions, but I've not updated the faceplate for it (I don't know anyone who built that version of it, so probably won't get done).

@@TEBLify can you link the part on ENC1 its not listed on the bom file thanks

If installing a front-panel you'll be installing something like the 20mm part listed below on it. Without it you can still use the same part, but the connector is just somewhere to plug the cable (at that point it is assumed you're building your own case and installing it somewhere on it). For neither option, you're looking at installing switches instead.

You generally won't need those, one is a breakout for a serial adapter (a low cost alternative to using a somewhat cheap 5pin MIDI adapter. The other is a breakout for a MIDI-thru port, I've never had a use it for it as there are always other options.

I have not removed any comments, but it may have been caught in a spam-filter of some kind. When I did the redesign to have a dedicated front-panel, the power LED was moved here from the separate extras-module. This also moved the OLED to the middle instead of being on the left.

@@TEBLify so i think i have printed the correct pcb than revision E thanks ,🤓

I didn't know a clone of one was available, I may have to look into building one for myself once winter rolls in 😀

@@TEBLify card works perfect

It is can't do so automatically, but you can hook it up to one of the COM-ports and send commands to it - you can use one of them to set the display to 1000 if thar is what you want.

Or a pure CPLD high frequency counter on board? (github.com/aelfimow/frequency-counter-2)

Thank you for the kind comment, I hope that you'll enjoy it 😀

Yes, the file mentioned is the one to start with. I can't really remember the differences between the chips, but it I think you can substitute one simply by setting up the jumpers marked a13/a14.

I just checked the shared PCBWay projects and the sizes were detected correctly (100x100 for most, 100x35 for Faceplate FP2). Are you sure that what you're uploading are gerber files? The repository only contains the KiCAD source files and as such they're a different format entirely.

See response for previous comment. In general I don't include gerber files anymore, just links to shared projects as it is usually the only way I get anything back for the work that I do.

Modern cases seem to lack more and more switches and LEDs found on older AT-cases, so made PC drive bay module to add them back in. Smart powee switch also make the regular ATX powee switch work as expectex with AT motherboards. And there's a tuebo-switch with Mhz-display, so that you can put Hi/Lo or the expected value on it.

The channel has mostly just been snippets as part of the documentation for various things, but I thought I'd start doing a little soldering videos here and there. At least until I get a handle on the whole video-editing thing 😀

I'm currently building my first BulkyMIDI-32 with extension board. Great stuff! I also only found your YT channel today by accident and had to subscribe! I will probably contact you again via Github with a report of my build. :-)

I always like seeing people taking the time to build my designs, it makes the time spent making documentation in a shareable state worth it. Take pictures :-)

The computer doesn't have a serial port, but the bus headers provide sufficient signals to add one - then it'd just be a case of modifying the ROM to use it. Alternatively one could probably use an Arduino to hit the buttons in a specific sequence though that's also a DIY kind of option.

@@TEBLify Yes, that seems like a good solution. I was thinking of adding a 6850 chip but using the Arduino is probably much easier.

I seem to have fallen a bit behind on documenting things, but the schematic (github.com/tebl/BulkyMIDI-32/blob/main/documentation/schematic/BulkyMIDI-32%20Channel%202.pdf) and source code is available (github.com/tebl/BulkyMIDI-32/tree/main/software/arduino/ChannelMonitor). The circuit is pretty simple as it uses ready-made libraries to decode the messages, I used a Pro Micro in particular since it has an extra HW UART as I find that works better. Could probably simplify the LEDs to skip the transistors, I just had that from copying the first channel monitor schematic.

I don’t think this would have come with Win95. I had a 6050d, very similar to this but 50MHz, it was a DOS/Win3.1 machine sold in early 1995.

They have a power button!

There haven't been much of an interest in my little project, so I was surprised to hear anyone was building or even selling them. Anyway, I think your only option is probably sourcing the parts and building one unless the original seller is able to provide one. My github at github.com/tebl/BulkyMIDI-32 has all of the KiCAD design files, pcbway links points to my last tested version of thr PCB. While the unit itself has changed over time, the interface between them has stayed the same - so you should be able to use the updated extras-board with it.

@@TEBLify I think your project is the best MT-32 Pi project out there, yet somehow it seems completely unknown. How is there nothing about it on Vogons? I'm planning to build one in the near future.

@@mrb5217 Thank you for the kind comment, a lot of work has gone into creating it. I don't have the capacity to build or sell kits due to my health, so there haven't been much publicity for for it beyond a few posts here and there though I'm hoping that people will share what they built over time. The shortage of Raspberry Pis have also had a huge impact on the MT32-PI in general. I've wanted to do a special version with the Pi Zero 2 since it launched as, but I've yet to see one for sale. Thankfully, the Raspberry Pi 3 have started to show up again.