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My brother briefly had a C64 mini - my bro and I both have hand/wrist problems and the joystick was not enjoyable as the spring force felt like it was trying to tear our wrists off and the knob was just painful.

@Mr.1.i 38 711 KB free for a C64 is a common misunderstanding as it is the amount free for use by basic. A game or application implemented may bank it out as well as quite a few others areas, gaining access to almost the full amount of memory. Rougly 62k, or by your count 63 388 bytes. Separate colour RAM in addition to that.

Can't remember any three dots, but it's been quite a while. If for jp1, and jp2, on the panel then they're used to reverse the rotary encoder - more a matter of preference tbh. Low memory is normal since I've mostly spent it all. Only suggestion I can give is to see if there is a difference with or without sd-card inserted. Make sure that it's fat32, and not vfat.

@@TEBLify JP1 is on the side of the PCB and has the inscription "LED_EN" J4 is on the side of the Power connector. I bought the Arduino Pro Micro on Aliexpress, version with USB-C port and the PC recognizes it as "Leonardo"... maybe that's where the problem lies. Greetings...

@TEBLify hello Is it possible that JP1 is a jumper that "enables" the LEDs? And is J4 an alternative energy input, like a battery pack? I managed to "make it work" (halfway) by making connections with dupont cables to check the screen problem and I managed to determine that it is a soldering problem in the connection between the Arduino and the PCB (my fault) I'm waiting for a new Arduino to replace the existing one, and a midi cable so I can get the device up and running properly. But I still have a doubt about JP1 since the status LEDs do not light up... Saludos!!

@@TEBLify Hello... I tell you that I have finally been able to finish the Project. Now I just have to create a case to store everything and make it look nice... But I have a question... when using the encoder, can I also use the PLAY and STOP buttons? I haven't succeeded... or should I definitely modify the code? Otherwise, it works perfect!!!!

@TEBLify ...and I have not been able to load them into KiCad either

Here's a link with the set of Gerbers used to build my last copy of the Play-module (expires in a week or so): www.dropbox.com/t/dW3qjgngkRWUyC9m

@@TEBLify Te lo agradezco mucho!!! hoy mismo envío a imprimir para armar tu Proyecto... 🤗🤗 Thank you so much!!! Today I send to print to put together your Project... I'm looking forward to using it!!

1. Yes. It talks MIDI, so it can be just about anything from real hardware to emulation (Bulkymidi-32 itself, is an MT32 MIDI-hat). 2. Most of that is covered in the schematic, but take note that the encoder uses up some of the signals used for the switches. You may need to tweak the code as well. Start here: github.com/tebl/BulkyMIDI-32/blob/main/documentation/schematic/BulkyMIDI-32%20Play.pdf

@@TEBLify Perfect!! Thank you so much! In short, I can directly connect the components (Rotary encoder, LCD, etc) to J6.👍👍 But now I have another question... Does this implementation have the option, when adding more than one .MID file to the mSD card, to be able to go from the first to the second file by pressing a button, and change the playback tempo?

Me again... I could see the code (all this is new to me... electronics, PCBs, code, etc) and I answer myself... YES, it is possible to change files and modify the tempo... it just depends of the system status (playing or not). So, I'm already putting together a shopping list to be able to have the player working as soon as possible and enjoy my old midi files from my favorite band. I thank you again for this!!! I'll tell you how it goes... or I'll ask you again if I have any questions.🤭

Dreamblaster was bought from serdaco, I don't think it's an open project.

This is the listing from one of my orders, make sure to pick the 4pin version. Colour is more a matter of preference. Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! NOK21.00 19%OFF | 1.3" OLED Module 1.3 inch Display Module White/Blue 128X64SPI/IIC I2C Communicate Color 1.3 Inch OLED LCD LED Display Module a.aliexpress.com/_EyVR38t

@@TEBLify Thank you heaps.

@@TEBLify Assembled, set up and working like an charm:) Thank you.

Yes, Batocera is on my list to check out things further - just need to get hold of a mini-PC as there things that won't run on a Pi.

That would be fine. It should only see 5v, so 25 would be plenty - it may mean that it's physically larger in size, but would work just the same.

@@TEBLify It is 8mm in diameter, same size as circle on the boar so it will be perfect fit:)

At some point we all probably need to start looking at SSDs to keep things alive as spinning disks eventually stop - well - spinning. OnTrack was endlessly confusing to me as a child, but sometimes the hobby is about conquering old foes 😅

@@TEBLify or just get the click of death or make other terrible noises

Happy new year Hans!

I've never had a problem with those, is there a purpose to changing them beyond aesthetics?

Hei Hans Petter 😀

I think that's a great project, especially now that the mechanisms themselves have started to disappear from the markets completely. Think I'd build put direct 1581 replacement into a case, mainly just because there's so much room in them - would be weird, but fun 😅

I believe there are soundfonts available that'll approximate those, as to how accurate they are - you'd probably need to talk to someone with a better ear for such things than I have.

It is one of the ways of using on an old PC, an alternative is a soundcard with either 5-pin MIDI ports in a drive-bay expansion or via the gameport. By building up an extras board you can use it via 9-pin serial port. On a modern system you can use it with USB MIDI adapter.

Alternative ways of assembly, if front panel is not installed - switches for controlling it can be installed here instead. J4 was an option for earlier revisions, but I've not updated the faceplate for it (I don't know anyone who built that version of it, so probably won't get done).

@@TEBLify can you link the part on ENC1 its not listed on the bom file thanks

If installing a front-panel you'll be installing something like the 20mm part listed below on it. Without it you can still use the same part, but the connector is just somewhere to plug the cable (at that point it is assumed you're building your own case and installing it somewhere on it). For neither option, you're looking at installing switches instead.

You generally won't need those, one is a breakout for a serial adapter (a low cost alternative to using a somewhat cheap 5pin MIDI adapter. The other is a breakout for a MIDI-thru port, I've never had a use it for it as there are always other options.

I have not removed any comments, but it may have been caught in a spam-filter of some kind. When I did the redesign to have a dedicated front-panel, the power LED was moved here from the separate extras-module. This also moved the OLED to the middle instead of being on the left.

@@TEBLify so i think i have printed the correct pcb than revision E thanks ,🤓

I didn't know a clone of one was available, I may have to look into building one for myself once winter rolls in 😀

@@TEBLify card works perfect

It is can't do so automatically, but you can hook it up to one of the COM-ports and send commands to it - you can use one of them to set the display to 1000 if thar is what you want.

Or a pure CPLD high frequency counter on board? (github.com/aelfimow/frequency-counter-2)

Thank you for the kind comment, I hope that you'll enjoy it 😀

Yes, the file mentioned is the one to start with. I can't really remember the differences between the chips, but it I think you can substitute one simply by setting up the jumpers marked a13/a14.

I just checked the shared PCBWay projects and the sizes were detected correctly (100x100 for most, 100x35 for Faceplate FP2). Are you sure that what you're uploading are gerber files? The repository only contains the KiCAD source files and as such they're a different format entirely.

See response for previous comment. In general I don't include gerber files anymore, just links to shared projects as it is usually the only way I get anything back for the work that I do.

Modern cases seem to lack more and more switches and LEDs found on older AT-cases, so made PC drive bay module to add them back in. Smart powee switch also make the regular ATX powee switch work as expectex with AT motherboards. And there's a tuebo-switch with Mhz-display, so that you can put Hi/Lo or the expected value on it.