Видео

Hi- I got that one from www.greatart.co.uk in the printmaking section.

I've tried one medium (can't remember if it's Daler Rowney) though I found it toned down the colours slightly. I may try your suggestion though- things are always changing and getting better.

I don't protect the paper from oil, so to speak, though you can buy 'buffered tissue' which has a coating on it (though the ink doesn't sink in as well on that). I find that I'm rolling the ink out so thinly that it doesn't really make a difference to the paper. Eventually, of course, it probably will break down somewhat, but the pieces I made 20 years ago are still going strong.

They go in the bin! Though I feel that they are pretty biodegradable as they are essentially fabric, oil and pigment, so I'm not adding to anything bad in the ocean!

@@printingathomewithruthande1868 Yes, it doesn't sound toxic, but I was thinking about combustibility. Do you have a metal bin? I want to go back to oils, and I'm curious about how others handle the rags. Vegetable oil sure is better than turpentine, though!

@@rosemarystarace6511 yes, vegetable oil is combustible

Just a spray fixative- to seal any pastel, pencil etc.

Thank you!

Hi. In answer to your questions- yes the oil paint does take a little while to dry depending on temperature and weather (it can take several days in Winter, but only 24 hours in summer). But the good news is, it doesn't buckle the paper as it drys. I don't tend to use water soluble paints much and not for collage papers, so I'm afraid I don't know the answer to that question. However, I would think the answer would be yes, as the nori paste will contain some water. If you were only to apply it to the non-ink side, you may avoid that though. Hope that helps.

@@printingathomewithruthande1868 Thank you, I really appreciate you responding and your answers :)

Will do- it won't be til next week at least though as I'm on my hols. You could subscribe for notifications.

I used Indian ink for my washes on Mark Resist. I used the grainy side of the Mark resist to 'paint' on. I've just made a video about the process actually- here- ruclips.net/video/xcpnc-YEqmk/видео.html

Great- glad it was of help to you. It is a lovely process- a pity it needs various bits of equipment usually found in print studios not at home.

Good question! And if so, who is a supplier of aquatint screens please?

Yes, that's the process. Each UV unit has it's own timings etc, but it's always 'aquatint' screen first, then your positive worked on screen (either photographic or painted/drawn) and then you harden the plate off with UV light after. It's best to take a course with someone who can walk you through the machinery etc. though

I haven't worked that out yet! I use the one provided at my print studio- I'll see if I can find out.

Thank you- always appreciated!

You're very welcome!

Good- I'm glad it's helped!

I ask a framer to make a 'tray' frame for it and hang it like that. If your wood is thick enough, you might be able to put fixings in the back without a frame too.

I'm so glad to hear that- collage is great for 'quick wins' too.

Good- glad it was good timing!

Great- I'm glad you're getting ideas. I tend not to use a gelli plate, just because I like to press into the back of my paper quite a lot and a harder surface is better for that. But obviously you can still get great layering effects from gel plates.

Thanks. They haven't been very popular with customers so far, but I like them too.

I'm glad you enjoy these 'tours'. I wasn't't sure I would continue with them, but getting a few good comments makes a difference!

Thank you. As you can see I like to mix and match my printmaking techniques quite a bit, and that often means you can get lovely textures (sometimes by accident!)

Great- glad to be of service! You're the second person this week that's described my teaching as 'straight to the point'! I'll take it as a compliment!

I know- that's why I love oil paints- acrylics just aren't the same (for me anyway)

Thank you!

Great- glad to be of service!

Glad you like it!

Thank you!

Absolutely- we've been blown away by everyone's generosity.

thank you- I'm loving it I must say.

Thanks- I'm guessing your view might be nicer in Vancouver?

Thank you. Yes, we're getting there slowly with the fundraising. I'm going to enjoy my time there whatever the future anyway.

As far as I know. Other artists also do it. Essentially, the two different mediums seal the paper and board from the air and moisture. Cold wax medium would essentially be like the surface of an oil painting when dry. However, I have just started doing this technique, so can't say from experience what will happen in decades time. It certainly shouldn't yellow.

@@printingathomewithruthande1868 cool thank you! I’ve been wanting to try with some of my prints but was worried about the wood underneath but either way gesso shoukd be fine!!! Thanks!😊

thank you!

Good- glad to be of service!

Thank you! I think I will probably add to it some more yet, but a good start I think.

I actually use oil paint to monoprint on tissue paper- the colours are amazing, and tissue picks up all colour and marks so well, you don';t really need sticky printing inks.

Hi, yes I get these type of prints float mounted (there are previous videos showing how I do that, or you can get a framer to do it for you) and framed. I am also currently working on using these type of prints collaged onto board to make mixed media pieces. However, this one will be a piece in it's own right and framed.

I use a large piece of plastic/perspex to roll ink onto (it's not very obvious in the video I know!)