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@@jkeating38 excellent! I think you'll enjoy it.

where did u find it im also looking for one im in aus

@@tahamoheich402 I found it in Lithuania, unfortunately however the sale was cancelled as it was defective. They're supposed to have more late October from what I was told

@@lianjosua5669 I bought it way back in the beginning of Covid for about $2000 with a clean title and reasonable miles, and I've put about $5500 into it not including the consumables I use on track (fluids, brakes, tires). My car is built more or less to the class limits with a rollbar and seats though, all you need to drive with us is a slow car in the Sundae Cup ruleset, Falken Tires, some good brakes and fluid and a rear sway bar if you really want it!

This car was rear-ended and a total loss, but I have a much better version of the same car now. I'll be posting a video on it this week. Stay tuned 🙂

Could you explain in more detail what you did? Maybe with pictures to understand better, have a c230 coupe, it is still good but i have the codes present, so it will happen in the Future

I've been daily driving my current W203 with this swap and no ECU tune for about a year since we did it on the FCP Euro channel. No issues, no lights on the dash, but it's all been very gentle driving. Like I say in this video and all of the others, an ECU tune is the right thing to do when you're adding air

The secret is the OFGear!

Same with the M157. Just did mine on my E63S

Hi, thanks beautifully for sharing your knowledge so far. I have a M272 272HP engine, have you done a dyno to compare how much is lost in the lower rpm range after replacing the IM? or would You just say that it is suitable for everyday city driving without additional modifications like sport headers, exhaust etc?

@@MrRobaloAmigo sorry, I'm just seeing this! I did not dyno, but on the 3.5L you have the car is perfectly driveable with the composite manifold.

Just keep in mind, if you don't have the M014 manifold you'll need an adapter to make it fit! We recently did a DIY on the M014 manifold as well, if you want step-by-step instructions just search "FCP Euro M014" on YT

@@danny_playswithcars composite manifold is here. You're a god send. This M272 is coming out of my wrecked SLK. It's going into a Mazda MX5 MK1 haha!

It had a 5.4L M113 swapped (normally is 4.3L) but is now sold

430 is good news! There's a good deal of them (and parts for them) out there. The 55 driveline stuff can be a bit trickier to track down with how few were sold.

That part number you gave isn't M014-specific, it's simply the part number of any M272 air deflector boot (which means it's sized for the stock M272 74mm throttle body rather than the 82mm one used on the M273/the M014 package cars). For the M014 retrofit, you'll need the part numbers mentioned in this video (the M273 throttle body as well as the M273 air deflector boot). Hop to 18:54 in the video for the parts you need.

Sweet! You'll enjoy it. This is a DND performance deep dish steering wheel, the seat is a Sparco Evo 2 on Sparco side mounts with a Planted seat bracket (the Planted bracket was kind of a pain and I'd look elsewhere if you can). I do have a harness bar and a 6-point harness, but before that I was running a Schroth Quickfit harness which worked really well and was super convenient. The wheels are 15x8 RPF1s in front and 15x7 Advanti Storm S1 in the back. I have an Instagram under the same username as this account where you can kind of see the full build unfold!

That's awesome! I'm hoping to do the same swap soon. The full M014 engine is very different than your stock engine. Yes, it has the manifold and throttle body I talk about here, but it'll also have a TOTALLY different cam profile and cylinder head than your stock engine. That'll be why the car's freaking out; it's effectively a totally different engine that's in there once you start to lean on it a bit more than just driving around. You'll need an ECU tune, remapping over to programming either the same or similar as on a 2009 SLK350 Sport with this M014 package. You'll also be looking for a tuner capable of Mercedes work on an ME9.7 ECU. I strongly recommend you contact Josh at Mercedes Swap Shop as he's the most likely to get you sorted properly. Tell him I sent you, he knows I've been considering that swap for a while

He hasn't helped me, what can I do to make the car run good?

I found the good ECU. I let someone virginize it for me and I programmed it with DAS. So now the fault with the swirl flaps is gone, but now I have a throttle valve actuator fault code. P0200 & P0186 Did you experience anything like this?

Happy to help! If you have any additional questions, feel free to shoot me a message at the linked Instagram. I'm a lot more active on there (and may end up doing this retrofit again soon).

@@danny_playswithcars Thankyou 👍

That'll be the trans going into limp mode. That's 722.6, so you'd want to pull codes. Could just need new fluid, could need a conductor plate, or could have damage from being run with old/low fluid. More than likely, fluid/filter and a conductor plate will resolve it, but codes will be the determinant.

I’m not sure if you bought one yet but a high mileage cheap amg is always fun. One because if you can find one with service reports so you know it was atleast treated fair, you’ll know she was driven. Two you’re getting a fire experience for a fractional price. I bought an 04 clk with 124k needed a new maf and I’m actually right now clearing a P0600 code for a pre - faulty Crank Position Sensor. I’ve heard from others the m113 and m113k are better driving experiences than even some of the newer AMGs. You’ll also be getting one of the last best engines made for damn near anything you can throw at her. 6k is a steal imo if you have time and little extra cash.

Algorithm got ya 😉 it's since been sold.

Love the C320 Coupes with a manual! Very very rare around these parts, I've only ever seen two for sale in the past. Just picked up another fun M272 car. You'll see it posted here soon

Yes they are! The discs are just high-carbon units from Powerstop.

Stay tuned. Have some fun news coming soon 👀

Because some other videos it makes it seem loud

Depends on mileage, but probably not a necessity unless you have reason to believe the injectors needs replacing. I'd just recommend injector seals in case they're damaged when you're swapping the fuel rail onto your new manifold (some manifold kits will include the injector seals, such as the Pierburg OE kit from FCP Euro)

@@danny_playswithcars ahh totally forgot to mention my car is at 81500. i already did a full spark plugs + coils at 60,000 when i got the car but never got around to tackle the p2004 issue. i really dont like the way the car drives at low rpms and sometimes high thats why im doing it. for sure i will buy the O rings as well gaskets for the manifold + throttle body gasket. would you say fuel injectors is okay to go without replacing ? i don't have any issue with my fuel system nor leaks

It sounds like it would certainly help, yes. Since you're seeing oil in the deflector, it's more than likely your drip pan leaking (on the back of the US passenger-side cylinder head). It would be wise to replace that, albeit definitely a bit more effort than installing a catch can would be, but the catch can could serve as a good band-aid until you're ready to do a drip pan/drip tray. As for your idle, if the car has been consuming oil for a long time through the drip pan, it may be worth checking your spark plugs for gunk if you haven't done them recently. If the car has any misfire codes especially, spark plugs and coils could be the cause of your issue. BUT, before you even start with that, double-check to make sure that the big engine cover/air filter housing is sealed securely to the MAF. A lot of the time, when that seal isn't perfect, you'll get a vibration at idle and some questionable performance at low RPM. While the catch can will stop you from gunking up the manifold a ton, you'll still be losing oil out of the drip pan. The best move on M272/M273 is to replace the drip pan/tray (the "high load" crankcase vents) and to run a catch can off of the "low load" PCV on the US driver-side head. By doing the pan/tray though, your oil consumption will likely be near-zero. Does the car have any codes?

@@danny_playswithcars No codes yet. This has been an issue for quite some time now. I just recently replaced the Oil Drip pan and the crankcase. I wasn't sure what the torque was supposed to be on the bolt through the drip pan but i tightened it down to 10 ft-lbs per 'iRepair Autos' video. I have replaced spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body/MAF/deflector, replaced air filters but the engine is still shaking a bit in low end acceleration. I'm considering doing a Seafoam treatment to see if that helps any; people say it can help limit the blowby that gets past the pistons. Otherwise I'm hoping that seperating some of the oil from the PCV with the catch can helps the issue.

@@FauxFoxez Have you put eyes on the engine/transmission mounts lately? Sounds like you've done all the right things, and even the small-displacement Benz models chew through their mounts. All kinds of interesting vibrations and behaviors can result.

It's stock exhaust with the factory muffler chopped off and the Megan Racing one welded in it's place. This is the MU-MDT.

@Danny PlaysWithCars Thanks bro. I really appreciate your reply. The straight tips fit without any mods to rear bumper?

It's published! Check the more recent vids on this channel!

@@danny_playswithcars bet bet

@@danny_playswithcars I just got one haha 06 w 90k

Nope

The pump slides into the reservoir via a rubber grommet, meaning it literally just pulls out. Don't know how to get much more practical than that.

If you check some of the other videos on this channel, you'll see that I actually did this swap on the smallest M272 out there (a 2.5L). In theory, the bigger the engine, the more benefit you'll see to increased aspiration. A 3.0L or 3.5L C350 would be the exact same process as described here.

Hi Nick. These can operate on an "as-needed" basis, but won't need replacement very often. Often these are done between 80k-100k; simply pulling the lines of the driver-side PCV breather or checking the one big hose off of this drip pan for oil accumulation should tell you everything you need to know. If there is liquid oil, there's a problem; these systems vent vapor when working correctly.

Is the whistle solely on startup, or all the time? Just looking to eliminate the possibility it's the secondary air pump. There's a lot of push-style vacuum hoses in front of the intake manifold, behind the secondary air pump. I'd give those a visual inspection and see if those are your problem. Pending where a split/damage may be, you may need a manifold. With a split hose and some ingenuity you may be able to splice in a new vacuum hose, whereas if a bladder is damaged or a fitting came out of the manifold, you'd want a new manifold. The intake manifold in this video is the composite one from the R171 SLK350 option package "M014." It's an...interesting mod for these cars. If you're curious, there's a lot of videos on this channel about it!

@@danny_playswithcars I thought it was the secondary air pump at first too but it was not. It happens all the time. And the thing makes more of a buzzsaw noise when it’s bad. I did inspect some hoses without taking the pump off and could see what looked like some burn marks on one of the hoses (from rubbing that metallic bell looking thing to the right of the air pump) but it didn’t look totally cracked through not sure if that is bad enough to create an audible leak. There was also another hose that appeared more cracked at the end. Ive heard of people using a razor blade to cut the end off and fit it on more securely. But I bought about 3 ft of hose from the dealer and am going to try to pull the air pump off and examine better. I’m not completely familiar with evap stuff so this is kind of new territory for me not sure if I should just replace all the hoses I can. I was gonna try to smoke test it also with a little Jerry rig smoker I made. Do you think the best place to run smoke would be from the brake booster line?

The composite manifold from FCP Euro comes with the throttle-body-to-manifold gasket, as well as intake manifold gaskets. To complete the swap (outside of any tuning or additional vacuum lines/small hardware) you'll need the M273 throttle body and the M273 air intake boot. The stock MAF will fit the new intake boot perfectly, and your standard air filter housing will then work without issue

@@danny_playswithcars got it! Exactly what I needed to know thanks!