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This method needs citric acid to form the actual chelating agent, monosodium citrate. But I quess any acid, dissolved in water will remove rust. The effect on the base material will vary though depending on multiple factors.

Please Mr. Cohen, as I answer you in the "rust removal by chelation" video, it is most often necessitated by the circumstances that I have background music on. Other possibility would be to make the whole video mute. But I may have audiences that still like to hear something, so I could not do that either. So, for now, for you to fully enjoy my videos the way you like it, I suggest you to mute your sound while watching DIYALL videos. 😅

Thanks for the idea. However, I have lots of background noises while filming (for example: cat raging, gf raging, kids raging, appliances beeping their error codes, tv, etc.) So, for now, I must stick to this style. I use lot of time finding the right kind of music to match the atmosphere I want to convey. I must try harder to not cause this kind of discomfort in the future. 😇

I can't tell if this is a joke or actual recipe

@@DIYAll_24 That's his recipe converted from liters and grams for a gallon water.

Thank you for the kind words :) While it was happening I was unsure if I would laugh or cry, so I just watched in disbelief, thinking "How in the dogs cereal did I mess this up that bad AGAIN!". I have used just spray on WD-40 as rust inhibitor, works okay at least in the short term. If I need "proper" protection from rust, I would quench them in oil, as I did in my first video. It gives them very good and water repelling coating. And thanks for the farrier plier idea, they could definitely be that. I will investigate.

This is my favorite way of serving salmon. Not only for the salmon itself, but I greatly enjoy the process 😁

Thank you for a great question! The soda is actually not added for the purpose of reducing the acidicity, rather it is for the formation of the actual chelating agents that do most of the rust removal in this process. These agents being monosodium citrate and some disodium citrate salts. This method is discussed more thoroughly in the Backyard ballistics channel video I have linked in the description.

Infatti, ho concluso che questo procedimento è ancora sicuro per qualsiasi trattamento di rinvenimento o indurimento degli strumenti.

Hey thanks for noting and commenting. This is more or less straight transcript from the video I learned this process, and i noticed that contradictory myself. But since It's above my pay grade I just left it be. My thinking was, maybe the reaction products, (mono- and disodium citrates) themself are acidic, and so affect the acidicity of the end product. Do you think this could be the case?

@@DIYAll_24 Shouldn't the products of the reaction between a base and an acid, be perfectly neutral? Either way: Evaporust removes rust, whilst not/barely damaging the base metal, as it's close to neutral ...but since this solution is acidic, it *_does_* affect the base metal. Not as much as just using citric acid, by itself, which is obviously a lot more acidic, but still... I do not understand, why he chose to make a solution that is still significantly acidic.

Backyard Ballistics formula is really great, but his assumption about full neutralization in this case was not quite right. To fully neutralize 100g of citric acid requires about 130g of baking soda. He uses half of that. So the solution itself is still acidic therefore explains his own result where there is still a small amount of base material etching. I would say 1 :1.3 citric to baking soda ratio would result in pH neutral solution that will drastically reduce base material etching, but will also result in slower reaction time.

@@ForsisTubro-zj9ro Ah, so rather than 63g, it should be 130g? Using those numbers, I take it that the proper amount for sodium carbonate would be around 83g, and for sodium hydroxide, 62g? Have you tested those amounts, to confirm it, BTW? What I can't understand, is why he says his solution neutralizes the acid, given that he clearly shows it has a pH of 4...

​@@ZarlanTheGreen Ah, if you're using sodium carbonate, the numbers will be different. It's not straightforward algebra as the molecular weight and the ion exchange will be different. It takes 1 mol citric acid to neutralize 3 mol of sodium bicarbonate, but the same amount will neutralize only 2 mol of sodium carbonate. So 1 mol citric (molecular weight 192g) will neutralize 2 mol sodium carbonate (molecular weight 106g x2 = 212g). The full neutralization ratio is therefore 192 : 212, or about 1 citric acid to 1.1 sodium carbonate. Assuming 100% purity on the ingredients of course. Therefore 100g citric acid will require 110g pure washing soda to fully neutralize each other. As for testing, no, I have not made any ph neutral version because the acidic version works great already for my use. Citric acid strips rust quickly and the sodium citrate chelates the rust so it doesn't stick back. And the base metal etch is minimal IMO.

I tried to research this but got not much wiser... Can you explain more please?

Thanks for the insight! I left the scaling of the batch calculations to the user 😉😇

Merci beaucoup pour votre commentaire détaillé et très instructif ! 🙏 Je suis impressionné(e) par la réflexion et le temps que vous avez pris pour analyser le processus et partager vos connaissances. Vous avez soulevé des points très pertinents, notamment sur la chimie du dérouillage, les pertes inévitables de matière, et les différentes approches possibles pour traiter les surfaces après un tel nettoyage. C'est vrai que dans ce projet, j'ai eu affaire à une rouille très "ancrée", et vos explications sur les piqûres et la perte de métal sont vraiment éclairantes. Vous avez raison : dans la restauration, il n'existe pas de solutions magiques, et chaque pièce impose ses propres contraintes et compromis. Votre mention des différentes techniques pour gérer les piqûres et préserver (ou remplacer) la matière manquante est très utile, et je vais certainement y réfléchir pour mes futurs projets. Encore merci pour votre retour. Ça fait vraiment plaisir d'échanger avec quelqu'un qui a une telle expertise et qui prend le temps de partager. Et votre dernière phrase m'a bien fait sourire, c'est encourageant ! 😊

Hey no problem! But I have no idea if that is one mouthful or two olympic size swimming pools 😆

I've only made 60 nanograms, would you like to do a swap?

I wanted to use baking soda since washing soda is hard to find, and/or expensive where I live. Did you use ultrasonic cleaner or not? I think this method may be too aggressive for that.

Thanks for the comment and great suggestion! I forgot to mention on the video, but i had premixed my water with dish soap. I'm pretty confident that exacerbated my foaming problem...

In few hours there will be full version published, there you can hopely see a little better that its actully not burnt at all, but has very strong smoky cover. Very good😋

Could you please share a link if there is one? This can output over 5000 lumens 1 meter away, so pretty good! It works even for wintertime outdoor high speed video recording here in Finland when we don't see sun for a few months. Also this light can be set in front of a window as an artificial sun. 🤩

That's a bit harsh, but fair enough. Next time I'll make sure my oil stays hot and I will not overcook my steak.

If only you had the right tool to unscrew the valve stem/soul, which I don't have 😩 besides, I like to play with fire 😇🤩

I promise you he is 😀He sounds much worse than he is🤭

Hi, I will use this solution again, (in fact, I just released new video where I use it 😎). It will work for a long long time. Once it no longer works, I'm pretty sure it can be poured down the drain. I will need to make sure though, before discarding it. Thank you for very good question!

*a diluted solution of water with baking soda can be beneficial for lawns and gardens in limited situations, primarily as a way to control fungal diseases like powdery mildew on plants, or to kill small weeds, but overuse can harm plants due to sodium buildup; always test a small area first and follow proper mixing ratios*

I think the damage was done before going into this solution... The oil quenching should protect from further rusting 🙂

Yea tell me about it... All i needed was 3 minutes. Well i got 2 and a half 😅 Love the Finnish summer

Indeed! Thanks go to Carlo🍻

@@DIYAll_24 The Ultimate HOMEMADE Rust Remover (Better than EvapoRust) ruclips.net/video/fVYZmeReKKY/видео.html

Mine always does this too. I'm not sure what it is, but from how it feels and blackens everything it touches, it might be magnetite. Which is also an iron oxide but often found in oxygen deficient environments, for example, inside domestic heating systems. If I do the oil quenching as in this video, I just leave it on.

@@DIYAll_24 I did a chain that came out clean and did not get the black coating, and did not flash rust either. It is likely not the same metal composition as the other things. People, me included, are restoring old rusty cast iron cookware and I have been trying different rust removal methods. I don't want to leave the black deposits on them. Also I don't want to leave traces of any toxic chemicals. The flash rusting is also a big problem if muriatic acid is used. I am a retired polymer and organic chemist, but I am just learning the chemistry of rust removal from ferrous metals.

Oh that's interesting! All my parts so far have come out with black coating on them. I understand that you don't want some unknown black stuff on your cookware... Actually I too have some rusty cookware that i plan on restoring. As me neither want this coating on my cookware, AND I'm not very interested in manual labour of wire brushing it off, I think I will try and find some non-toxic solvent to remove this coating/ residue.

@@DIYAll_24 Great. I first saw this method and formula on this man's channel. He claims to have developed it ruclips.net/video/fVYZmeReKKY/видео.html If that is true, I think anyone using it should give him credit for it. Many of the formulas and procedures I developed as a research chemist were stolen from me and the credit taken by people who had no part in the work whatsoever.

@@Larry-d3i That's exactly where i saw this first time! Thats why i have credited him in the description :) You are right that everyone should always give the credit to whom it belongs to. Research takes time and effort the least you can ask for, is the appropriate credit for it.

Thank you, it's my first😊 (sorry I first accidentally replied from my personal account)