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Garmology by WellDressedDad
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Добавлен 16 сен 2013
I am Nick, a Norwegian blogger into slow fashion, sustainable and ethical menswear, tweed, workwear, proper footwear and cool things.
Instagram: Follow me at @welldresseddad
Podcast: Garmology podcast for more chats about clothes, and stuff. Available on all usual podcast apps and on the blog
Blog: Well Dressed Dad (welldresseddad.com).
Instagram: Follow me at @welldresseddad
Podcast: Garmology podcast for more chats about clothes, and stuff. Available on all usual podcast apps and on the blog
Blog: Well Dressed Dad (welldresseddad.com).
Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle
Nigel Cabourn is a British menswear designer with over 50 years in the business. He has had a continuous personal brand, initially as Crickett, later under his own name, and is known for his many and varied collaborations.
In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the Garmology podcast (episode #122), as a continuation of our contact I was invited to visit Nigel in his studio in Newcastle in April 2024. For me, it was a chance to learn more about the inspirations and working methods behind legendary collections such as "The Ascent of Cabourn" and "Scott's Last Expedition", and naturally to learn more about what is in the pipeline.
In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the Garmology podcast (episode #122), as a continuation of our contact I was invited to visit Nigel in his studio in Newcastle in April 2024. For me, it was a chance to learn more about the inspirations and working methods behind legendary collections such as "The Ascent of Cabourn" and "Scott's Last Expedition", and naturally to learn more about what is in the pipeline.
Просмотров: 1 281
Видео
Crepe soles can also be replaced!
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.Год назад
This summer I remembered a pair of my older shoes and dug them out to try. I bought them in London about 10 years ago, not expensive, by Red or Dead. I like the design, and the shape is really comfortable. The crepe sole though was not in good shape. To me, crepe soles are often a bit thin and hard, but here the sole had degraded in a way that made it quite sticky and picked up lots of sand and...
Garmology: The Shackleton Haakon Tactical Parka
Просмотров 2,6 тыс.2 года назад
Today's first impression is about this season's fresh offering from British brand Shackleton, the Haakon Tactical Parka. Following on from previous serious jackets, the Haakon is another piece of expedition-grade outerwear with appropriate features for cold climates. Shackleton has ample experience from Antarctica, so the ongoing development of their jackets is interesting to follow. I'll follo...
Unboxing and first impressions of the 1st Pat-rn Shepard shirt
Просмотров 6182 года назад
Hot on the heels of the Garmology podcast episode featuring Cristiano Berto, designer of the 1st Pat-rin brand (Season 3, Episode 13), I find myself with a package containing a Shepard shirt. I don't often buy new shirts, but this one had me intrigued, from the story behind it to Cristiano's enthusiasm and the obviously special fabric. Oh, and the pocket that's a bit different! More info on 1st...
Removing pilling from your knitwear
Просмотров 4,6 тыс.2 года назад
Pilling or bobbling of wool is an annoyance to anyone that tries to take good care of their knitwear. Mostly a problem for low-grade knitwear that uses short or mixed fibres, it's also a problem for higher-end quality wool garments. And unless you deal with it, it just gets worse. I take a look at some garments and various ways to remove pilling. This includes fingers, scissors, razor blades, a...
Unboxing a custom order from LaneFortyFive
Просмотров 8002 года назад
Join me while I unbox my long-awaited custom order from LaneFortyFive in London. Custom order? Every order is really a custom order, as everything is made to the customers order. I selected the styles I wanted, in the fabric in the fabric I wanted, and sent my measurements over. Did I like the result? I also added in a bit about clothes and sustainability at the ned. if you listen to my podcast...
Unboxing FRAHM workshirts
Просмотров 9282 года назад
Today's parcel is from FRAHM, in Bath in Somerset, UK. FRAHM is a small company making mainly jackets, but now also shirts in various weights. I've ordered one each of their moleskin and corduroy variants. Follow as I open the box, initial impresions and try them on.
Garmology: The English Utopia "Orkan" waxed cotton jacket
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.2 года назад
Waxed cotton jackets are a mainstay of classic menswear, from Barbours to Belstaff, from country to motorcycling, from farm to town. The new "Orkan" from UK maker English Utopia is a combination of influences and made to the utmost quality. In this video I look at two of the design influences, and see how this has been used in the final jacket. English Utopia is based in York and owned by Gary ...
Garmology: The Nigel Cabourn Mallory jacket
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.3 года назад
In this episode of "Garmology: Fun with outerwear!" I take a look at the Mallory jacket. First introduced as part of Nigel Cabourns "The ascent of Cabourn" in 2003, an inspired collection that arguably did ensure a big rise in Cabourns popularity, the Mallory has proven an enduring design, returning season after season in a variety of fabrics. I talk about the mountaineering inspiration behind ...
Garmology: The Norwegian Rain single-breasted raincoat review
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.3 года назад
Continuing my theme of "Fun with outerwear", today I've arrived at Norwegian Rain. As the name implies, it's a Norwegian company. They've been going since 2010 and consist of T-Michael, tailor and creative vision, and Alexander, business manager and realist. Hailing from Bergen claimed to be the rainiest city in Europe, raincoats seem an appropriate idea. In this video, I walk through the desig...
Garmology: The TEN-C Snow Smock review
Просмотров 4,2 тыс.3 года назад
TEN-C is a company started in 2010 by Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti. Their background is from Stone Island and CP Company, but when they saw an opportunity to use a new variety of Japanese fabric, they started TEN-C. The OJJ fabric, for Original Japanese Jersey, is very different from the usual jacket fabrics. The plan was also to make a very limited number of jacket styles, with the opti...
Sunday seasonal boot storage maintenance
Просмотров 5083 года назад
A sunny Sunday with some spare energy? Time to shift some of the Winter footwear into storage. First though? A bit of cleaning and feeding. Sustainability through taking care of what you have, folks! Garmology podcast for more chats about clothes, and stuff. Available on all usual podcast apps and on the blog at WellDressedDad.com You can follow me on Instagram as @welldresseddad
Garmology: The rare Barbour X Norton & Sons Barra jacket
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.3 года назад
Back in 2013, Barbour did a design collaboration with the Savile Row tailor Norton & Sons owned by Patrick Grant. The collaboration consisted of a limited range of jackets and knitwear, all in a very rugged and purposeful style. This Barra jacket I look at today was one of the jackets and I walk through the details of this very unusual Barbour. Garmology podcast for more chats about clothes, an...
Garmology: The Monitaly Mountain Parka
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.3 года назад
The "Mountain Parka" by Monitaly is one of the finest jackets around. Released year after year, Yuki Matsuda gently tweaks the design, making it into one of the truly great pieces of outerwear. In this video, I walk through the design features of both the AW and SS version of this classic jacket, and give some tips on buying one. I have previously reviewed both versions on my blog: welldressedd...
Garmology: Taking a look at the Grenfell Shooter jacket for Cordings
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.3 года назад
In this video, I take a closer look at the classic "Shooter" jacket by the British heritage maker Grenfell. This shooting jacket has been recreated for Cordings of Piccadilly, one of the true giants of British country clothing, having been in business for around 200 years. I walk through the details, talk about Grenfell cloth and bring out a viable and cheaper vintage alternative. I have previo...
Hi Nick, Thanks for the fascinating tour of Nigel Cabourn’s studio. Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Where can I get this amazing coat ? 😊 thanks 🙏🏻
shackleton.com/en-no/collections/mens-parkas/products/haakon-tactical-parka-navy-edition?variant=44440962269407
Fantastic video 👌
Thank you! Cheers!
I came from Derbyshire and fly fished in the summer and shot with a syndicate in the winter. I had a number of Barbour jackets over the years, buying my first in the 70s. I am now down to my last two, a Border and a Northumbria, both from the early 90s. I tried the snap in liner on my earlier jackets and never thought it did much for me, hence the Northumbria. I have looked at new Barbour but they just don't seem the same.
Barbour since 2005 is nothing like the quality of the old jackets. Like so many brands it’s now become a pure fashion brand. The astonishing range of about 90 jackets each for men and women is telling.
I've seen him riding around Gosforth in his bike grinning, looks like a schoolboy. Some nice clothes plus Cricket Club was good in the 80s, worn a lot by hooligans.
He’s living a charmed life now, I think we can all learn from him.
Great video. Nothing like an unboxing to get one’s Sunday night buzzing.😊
We need to get out more! 😊
Excellent outdoor clothing good video jacket looks well on you 👍
Thank you.
Nick, when you said to me the other day you’d been over at Cabourn in Newcastle I thought you’d been over shopping!!
You really should pay more attention! 🤓
Great episode ! Love Nigel ,what a great ascetic he has and collection, world class !
What's going on with the sound???
Which spefic points?
@@GarmologyVideo 1.Whilst the sound itself is clean & clear, its extremely quiet. the channel fader on my mackie mixer is at full. (+10db) Normal youtube level (for me) would be around minus 30db. (Only hope I don't forget to turn it back down before the next video starts) The panning of your voices (when using headphones) is a bit hard left/right. I'd bring that stereo width in to the centre a bit, or even mono it if the background isn't of significance. Just a few plugin presets away from great. x
brilliant document . thanks.
Thank you! I've long felt there should be something more proper done on Cabourn, so it was great to have the chance. Of course, my contribution is nominal, Nigel is a champion talker with no prompts!
@@GarmologyVideo I agree and it was better than the podcast as you could see a lot of the thing's he talked about. A goldmine of vintage jackets in there... Every good interview should have less interviewer and more interviewee !
@@legitorecords5701 That is genereally how my podcasts are!
Good to see another video. Seems a while since your previous one. Great video, i have a few Cabourn pieces myself.
Thank you. Indeed, I've mainly been focusing on the podcast, so it's been a while since the last video. If the response is good though, I should probably do one more often!
Great 👍🏻 I think sound on intro lower than it should be.
Thanks! There’s always something…
@@GarmologyVideo Did you swap jackets? Is yours ventile lined? They should do a ventile lined arctic Parka
Love the look - if Shackleton had the size range of the Ftahm for example - it would be a definite buy if made in UK.
RIP the Y cardigan, the waffle trouser, waffle jumper and the grandad shirt.
Who makes the yellow shirt?
Jernvirke, a Swedish brand.
I bought an old barbour border, great condition but the smell was absolutely disgusting... i mixed some neat vodka in cold water and wiped down the entire interior so it was damp... then i turned it inside out and hung the barbour outside in the winter months, so it freezing cold, and in the day was sunny. after about 3 full days of hanging outside and the vodka....the smell went away , hardly noticeable. thanks for the info about the vodka, otherwise it would have just been water. if this hadnt worked i was going to put some pure vodka in a bucket and a table spoon of washing up liquid in cold water...and dunk the entire jacket in for half an hour...from there i would have rinsed it out best i can and turned it inside out and hung it on the line....i don't expect the cold water and vodka would have taken off any of the fresh wax....but that would have gotten rid of the smell for sure. another thing barbour, on one of the jackets label tells you to wash by sponging down. i would have used isopropol alcohol if i hadnt found the vodka.
I bought a nice vintage chevalier wool shirt with some syntetic lining and my goosh it smelled like a hunting slaughter cabin, needed to rip out the lining and rewash it 😂
Gorgeous tweed color and design! You since have sold the jacket?
Yes I have, ages ago. My body and it grew apart, sadly.
Well I hope you had a wonderful convergence with the tweed during your time together! APpreciate the video. @@GarmologyVideo
I love the way this man speaks, it is truly ravishing.
You might enjoy the podcast then, also named Garmology.
thank you so much for this!!! I buy 90% of my clothes thrifted, and I am always making repairs. I have a beautiful wool cable knit coat that has some holes in the back, probably why it was 10$ but if I didnt know about felting I would of sewn wool patches, which probably would of been really irritating. Great advise on taking from coat on comments too!
I have had my Northumbria jacket for over 35 years and it has never let me down, it is very heavy!
This was a great review. Thank you for your time presenting all the key features. How much did you get it for? I’ve looked at their site and it seems they no longer have this A.L.S. which is a shame. Curious to know how much it was as it included another down jacket. Thanks! I’ve also subbed!
I can’t recall what the pricing was back then. The full liner was optional, but I had to request it. It’s a real monster, and yes, a good two in one deal.
Hi want size was that and is it true to Size?
True to size, but it’s been 5 years now so I can’t recall the size.
That, is NOT a donkey jacket.
You should let them know.
@@GarmologyVideo Yeah, but I doubt they would care.
Is grenfell cloth breathable? Also does it use horrible chemicals to produce like the ventile?
Hard to say, as Grenfell are not at all transparent about where the fabric is made or whether it is treated. I have asked them, but no reply. It feels very like Ventile to me and the repellancy leads me to think it’s been treated with something, though whether bad or good is less certain.
@@GarmologyVideo I see) ... it gets very murky when you actually get into it. You've done your research into all this. Well done!
Never put a Barbour wax jacket in a washing machine that's like committing suicide as all the wax will wear off and damage the jacket. You can use a sponge with a little water and go through it.
You may have missed the point of a serious wash.
Kenny
Fair point.
Thank you and I am a nuno Artist and a dry felter
Doesn’t look like much of a donkey jacket with those cotton shoulder bits and buttoned cuffs and the odd grey colour. A rough Scottish burr wouldn’t even carry that off.
You should let them know.
@@GarmologyVideo It’s your money
Great review! how do you think it would perform on a cold/cold winter in a cold city in the nordics?
Well, I use mind in Nordic cold and it performs wonderfully!
thanks for sharing your experience, love the cut of inner jacket, different, more stylish from what we see in canadian market
Thanks for watching!
Hope this helps someone who got a vintage Barbour and can't get the smell out: 1. Wet the entire garment. 2. Sprinkle generously with baking soda, both inside and out. Remember to do pockets, areas between the cuffs and outer sleeves (for Bedales), behind the collar, the fold between the zipper and closure buttons. 3. Spray with 50/50 white vinegar & water solution. 4. Rinse thoroughly. 5. Lay flat to dry in an area with ventilation. Hang dry might work as well but the garment may stretch, and I wasn't interested in finding out. 6. Re-wax. I used room temp. water for the entire process. Most of the smell is gone. Only area that still has some slight odour is between the cuffs and sleeves, which I forgot to treat. Please try to air out the garment first before attempting this. If this hadn't worked, I would have tried again with warm water and a 75/25 vinegar solution. After that, it would go into the washing machine (mine can be very gentle, but still would only be the last resort). From other sources I've read, a non detergent-based soap can be thrown in somewhere along the way, and try not to soak the thing in vinegar for too long.
Thank you. There are as many recommended ways of getting rid of smell as levels of smell in vintage clothes. An airing may work for some, spritzing vodka for others, but if the jacket is really bad, washing is the only way to get rid of the smell, and not forgetting decades of dirt (and worse). I agree it’s a good idea to start with gentle efforts though!
Lovely video on my favourite Barbour! I’ve had my Border for around 35 yrs and while it is well used it still looks great. I’ve used the Barbour repair service to have a few holes patched, the zip replaced and the hems ‘re-hemmed’. Most recently I even had the sleeves lengthened! I hope it and I will last another 35 yrs!
Glad you enjoyed it!
i have my own barbour repair service ...its called "mi mum"
That is a gorgeous jacket ! Timeless.
Do you prefer a three-botton jacket instead of a two one?
If your going to take an inch off the bottom why not use the fibres from the piece you remove? No need to gaff around trying to make it match?
Wonderful library. I’m jealous! Couple of observations. You should order 42 Short size not regular. I have to do the same (Im 5’8”) The sleeves are an inch too long and so is the back. Which makes it seem too “big” for you. A short size sport coat will give you an inch reduction in overall length and sleeve length (24 inches instead of 25) and will be out of the box perfect fitted fit. No more need to tailor. And second, it looks nice but I’m sure that per parliamentary law, an authentic Harris Tweed must have the sewn Authenticator patch in lining of the coat. So I would be suspect of that one. Great vid 👍🏼
Thank you for noticing my books! The jacket is long gone now. That the label wasn’t attached was just sloppy quality control, nothing suspicious about it.
Vintage smell, I know that all too well after cleaning out the closets of family elders who have passed away.
Love tweed! Bought a cap in scotland, now i want tweed everything
lovely review. May I ask how much is the weight of this jacket? I cannot find it on their website.
My XL with full liner weighs exactly 2.5 kilos.
Wow that's quite heavy. Thank you so much
I have this one but it’s the rare recycled army tent fabric version.
I have that one as well. No wool lining, but the same outer design. Excellent jacket!
How does it do in a downpour?
This is a very good dry wax variant, dense, sheds rain very well in my experience.
❤LOVE THIS!
Very difficult to hear you.
A craftsman knows how to you's his tools .😊
Machine for everything 😊
Sorry but it needs alteration for you
Hey fella i really value your opinion on clothes. Have you any thoughts on the Frahm Foreign Correspondents Jacket. It's my 60th birthday present in advance
It looks to be another well made jacket. The shoulder design is a bit overdone, but that’s just me nitpicking.
Thank you very much for making that clear, it doesn’t worth that much money. I’ve been struggling trying to make the decision if I should buy them or not but for the same price I can buy a cashmere jacket, so after watching this video I do t think I’ll buy a brand new ten C M65.
Have you used the trifold wallet? How has it held up?
Used it everyday since! Natural aging, no damage. Super product.