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Thank you! ❤️

Thank you! Its tons of fun!

As stated in the video, this is based off of a design from www.stickbow.com/stickbow/features/flemishstring/flemishstring.html I’m honestly not sure where he got the math conversion from the layout to the string length, but it works well.

Thank you

I could’ve, but what’s the fun in that? Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@CraftingALifeIWant great video.. thanks. One clarification, did you use black iron pipe or galvanized pipe?

@@SS-pi2yi black iron. Heating galvanized will release toxins.

@@CraftingALifeIWant is it as simple as..if the pipe is grey silver then it is galvanized pipe and if black , then it's black iron?

@@SS-pi2yi generally speaking yes. I imagine there has been someone that has painted galvanized pipe black, so use all found pipe at your own risk.

When you say flare, you mean the mig tip?

@@CraftingALifeIWant No the thing the mig tip is connected to

@@jomorken4853 hmm that’s a tougher one to get through. My initial thought would be to fill the hole with weld and then drill and tap to necessary size. My other thought would be to get a brass rod, give its outside threads that fit into the union then drill and tap it. Basically make a bushing.

Thank you!

It has literally made dozens of bow strings for several different length bows without problems. If you check the source link in the description you’ll find all of the details about how the dimensions were found. But thanks for your comment.

No worries. Still a helpful bit of info. :)

You’re right, you can achieve a cheaper build that way and it is also a fairly easy way to start off and then upgrade later. I was intending to go that way to begin with but was able to get my 2hp techtop for super cheap. Additionally, I find I change my speed way more than I originally expected. This is also due to the fact that I use my grinder on many more projects than I originally expected to as well.

I’m not familiar with which one the shoe pin is. Can you help me understand?

@CraftingALifeIWant the brake shoes pivot on the shoe pin. You drove it downward when you installed it, but rather, it is supposed to be installed from inside the base from the bottom of the shoes up. There should be a recess in one of the shoes for the head of the pin. Installing it the way you did allows the shoe to cock sideways and brake the ring under tension.

@@mikerobinson6606 ahhh ok. I’ll take it apart and check. Thanks for the info, always happy to learn some more.

@CraftingALifeIWant do a video so everyone can learn the right way. Good luck buddy.

It might. That’s a good idea. I didn’t have any on hand large enough not that I thought of it.

Oh man, that bit about the pipe threads, I hadn’t even thought about the fact that they were tapered…. My fit was super loose and I think this knowledge would’ve helped a lot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m might remake the T aspect to fix that. Thanks again for sharing.

@@CraftingALifeIWant No problem, glad I could help.

Hey sir, thanks for watching. It sounds like one of your hots might be touching the box somewhere as well. I’d take a look at those and see if there’s anything that might be stripped too far or potentially touching the box.

@CraftingALifeIWant input line is 110v, and the kbac is outputting 220v. if the 110v is grounded to the box and the neutral of the 110v input has continuity to ground, then doesn't that mean the box will have current?

@@S30Build your VFD isn’t outputting 220v, it’s outputting 3 phase power, not dependent on your input. The difference between 220 and 110 is entirely in output power capability. Example is that a 2hp motor will only function at 1.5hp running on 110. Technically ground and white are running duplicate loops back to your grounding plate in your box. The ground serves as a safety mechanism if the white line fails or shorts. The potential issue is in your hot (black) line. (But I’d also make sure that you swapped the jumper on your VFD from the 220v setting to the 110v setting, that should be in your instructions and wasn’t covered in this video as I had 220v coming into my VFD) If your hot line is touching your white or ground line it’ll pop the breaker. (In this case, I’m assuming it’s touching the box since grounding the box is popping the breaker, but the 110/220 jumper might be the issue too)

@CraftingALifeIWant I did switch the jumper to 115v before i ever connected anything. I cant see how the hot line could be touching anything, but L1 on the vfd. I do have a 20amp gfci breaker at the panel, and i am wondering if that's the issue.

Thanks Frosty, I’ll keep working on it. I appreciate the feedback.

Similar to when you restrict a hose and the result is a jet of water, the nozzle restricts the gas flow making it function like a jet, the force of the jet shooting down the tube pulls the air in through the holes which mixes with the gas before the ignition point at the burner flare.

Look up Venturi effect. Deals with pressure changes around restricted fluids.

Are you looking for dimensions of the wrench or the size of the tightening nut?

​@@CraftingALifeIWantI believe the 974 uses the #2 Wrench which is 11/16 if I recall.

Thanks for watching. The measurements reference bow length, not actual string length. The link in the description has more details around its construction.

@@CraftingALifeIWant Thank you for sharing! And for the reply. I'll take a look for sure. I'm making a really nice one for a gift, and want to make sure that the actual string length is referenced so it can be used with any type bow. Some bows require shorter strings (recurve) compared to their AMO length, which throws the numbers off. Again, thanks for both the video and the response!!

@@CrisAnderson27 my pleasure and good luck. I believe this jig was specifically for straight bows, there’s a bit of flexibility with regards to brace height that can be adjusted with twisting or untwisting the string, but I’d likely use a string I’d already made as a reference point for something more drastically different such as a recruve.

@@CraftingALifeIWant I designed one loosely based on the numbers from the site you referenced ( ruclips.net/user/shortssdJ_CPeaKNI?feature=share ). The main difference is I put pins every half inch (for 1" increment strings), and gave myself a LOT more peg holes to give myself more flexibility. From kid's bows to English Warbows...I've got room lol. I've got string material coming in Tuesday, so I figure the best idea will just be to pick a number close to what I want and make a string to see how long it actually comes out. From there, I can make the final iteration.

Yeah, it’s part of the design issues I’m experiencing with my grinder, I want to remake the whole tracking arm and redo that mechanism to allow for both directions of adjustment, it’s super annoying to get the other movement in any sort of consistent manner.

Yes it did. I didn’t trim any length, but it was pretty tight when winding it up. Particularly under that black flat metal piece.

I about woke my wife up this morning chuckling at this. Thanks sir and thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. I address this during the last few minutes of the part 2 video. If you listen to my last bit of the video, I talk about how if I had planned my leg placement with the vise in mind, I’d have left enough space outside of the leg to do just what you suggested. But with it placed inside of the leg, it was super annoying to clamp anything or work on anything with it flush to the face. Hence the rework.

Thanks for the response. I do have room on either side of the leg for mounting. Bench is is 90” long, overhang on each end is about 24”. Is there a big advantage to either inside or outside of the leg, in your opinion? I’ve got a homemade leg vise on the opposite side and a wagon wheel type vise I made from a workmate screw mechanism.

@@michaelkelley6905 my bench is only about 60” long and I only had 6-8” outside of my legs. I would’ve preferred it to be on the end to make it easier to clamp and work around items in it as desired. But with the mounting holes wider even than the metal jaw, it just wasn’t going to work with my bench setup. I’ve thought about putting a wooden leg vise on the other end, but honestly my bench is short enough I don’t have enough need. I’m sure some point in the future I’ll build a new one out of better materials. This ended up being out of old pine joists from a 1920s house I remodeled.

@@CraftingALifeIWantThanks, the vise I'm installing is a yost 10.5" wide vise and weights almost 40 pounds. The beach without the vise is 365 pounds. It's very heavy. I've got the position marked for inserting the vise (assuming I don't change the position of it.). I was planning on putting a piece of leather on the clamping surface of the vise on the insert bench side, and use either wood or leather on the screw side.

@@michaelkelley6905 leather is a great idea as well and one I considered, pretty sure I didn’t have enough leather at the time which is why it didn’t happen. Hmmm, maybe I’ll add that to my jaws.

Yeah I hear you, though I’ve had good luck with buying one offs from supply house and their shipping doesn’t kill me. I think total cost for this was (several years ago) around $20.

Thanks for the kind words! I’m not sure my MIL watches but my mom didn’t say a peep. :)

Thanks sir!

Thanks sir! I don’t know if I ever made note of what it was.

My pleasure!

Thanks sir, I’m watched all of Brian’s stuff and he’s a good friend of mine. I tried all of the points he suggested and did get some improvements after we finished filming. Thanks for the suggestion.

My pleasure. Thanks for watching!

Yeah, I was too. Even more annoyed it didn’t come with the on/off switch. It’s generally considered bad for the VFD to keep it powered the whole time.

Boy hear that, for the money they get you think they could put a main power switch on it, even a forward and reverse would be great. Not even thinking of buying one for $24..00 when the electric supply store has the same switch with a rubber for $6.00

Oh man, I should’ve gone that route.

I know, it pis---- me off to, so went and picked one up with rubber boot too ,at my local supply house use 16ga wire and works perfect and almost the same price. but no waiting or shipping .

You mean where the brass fitting connects to the black T? No one has mentioned that before, can you help me understand why going deep with a tap is a bad idea?

@@CraftingALifeIWant, since pipe taps are tapered, if you go to deep the pipe fitting going into the threads will end up going to deep without sealing. You probably noticed how deep the fitting went into the threads and it didn't look like it sealed. The fitting should only go about 2/3 of the thread length into the tapped hole in order to seal properly. That fitting depth is determined by how deep the NPT tap is threaded. We have to use an NPT gauge when we tap them, but we're a machine shop. I realize most folks don't have a gauge and really don't need one. I hope that helps. Your burner works outstanding though!

@@wireedm1 that is super helpful and I wasn’t aware but definitely had problems with that pipe sealing up well. Thought it was because my drill bit wandered when drilling the hole, which might have had an impact as well, but your explanation really helps me understand better what happened. I’m planning another burner build and really appreciate comments like these and the input from the community.

@@CraftingALifeIWant, glad to help. I hesitated to say anything, just trying to be helpful... I just saw this video from Flex Arm as an example: ruclips.net/video/LG_ToXWJYkc/видео.html

You mean you want to hard wire the VFD to the AC from the house / shop? Or you want a video on how to wire up the outlet side? If it’s the latter, I don’t currently have that included in a video. It’s so variable considering the hardest part is getting the appropriate wire from your box to where you need an outlet. If you drop me an email at crafting.a.life.I.want@gmail.com and I can provide some guidance as to how I’d approach it.

@@CraftingALifeIWant thank you so much for responding, I ended up getting the info I needed. I just had the open junction box for the 220 AC. I didn't know what to do with the neutral wire. I didn't know it can just be capped and left in the junction box. I didn't want to wire an outlet and plug, I'm not an electrician so it was difficult understanding what I was reading.

@@matthewdodd7038 ahh ok, I understand. Glad you got your info. :) I hope it all works well for you.

@@CraftingALifeIWant me too, lol. Thanks again

My pleasure! Thanks for watching!

If you look at the J2 jumper which is the motor speed selection, it should be factory defaulted to 2hp or the A pair. From there, you’d move the jumper down to change the hp. Position B for 1.5hp, C - 1hp, D - 3/4hp, and E - 1/2hp. If you email me at crafting.a.life.I.want@gmail.com I can send you a screen shot of the jumper settings from the manual.

Glad to hear it. That’s the main reason I make videos is to hopefully help people out. :)

Thank you! Glad to have you!

Thank you for the comment. Makes all the work of making a video worth it. Best of luck in your making adventures.

Thanks for the sub! :) It kinda depends on both what you’re doing with it and how you’re cutting it. If you’re cutting it with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel, whether it’s annealed or not won’t matter too much. If you’re trying to cut it with a bandsaw, you’ll have very little luck cutting through hardened steel and I’d definitely suggest annealing it. It wouldn’t hurt to anneal it either way as it would be easier to cut no matter which method you’re using and less abusive to your cutting tools.