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It's a different animal for sure. Kind of comes down to whats important to you...S1h has great dynamic range...maybe a stop more than the Nikon, but also has terrible rolling shutter. The Z63 imo has better colors, but more importantly shoots internal raw and has really nice AF...and a very fast readout...so I find myself enjoying it more

@@joshkiddfilms1295 Thanks for the response! I think whatever Panasonic do with the S1H successor it will need to be something really special to beat the Z6III. They can no longer continue offering stuff when terrible readout speeds if they want to be taken seriously.

Thanks so much! This was just manual focus on Ronin S, changing focus by changing my distance.

@ that’s awesome. I’m new to this w/ a a Takumar 50/1.4 & have less than good eyes & trouble keeping focus. What focus assist if any? I thought about a LiDAR assis

@ focus peaking and a good monitor goes a long way, but the new focus pro system from dji looks really cool.

Thanks! Love Nikon too

I always expose as bright as possible without clipping. In my experience this as well as sticking to the base isos yields the best results

@@jessmotto4109 thanks so much!

For me, the 32mm was THE lens to use with the s35 red. It just has the look of cinema to me. None of the others to me were nearly as impressive. Maybe the 75mm if you need a close up, but the 32 would def be my go to for most things

@ Thank you. When taking a close-up shot of a person, such as a half-length portrait, will the person look ugly due to distortion? I now have three mini s4 lenses, namely 25mm, 40mm and 75mm. I don't know whether I should buy a 32mm lens or sell the 40mm and replace it with a 32mm or 35mm plus a 50mm.

I find there's plenty of range for the majority of things. Sure, there may be a few cameras with a little bit more DR on the market, but this one is perfectly usable as is, and its not an issue unless in the most drastic of contrasting scenarios

I also own the Z8, and honestly, when you compare them side by side, to me it looks like their zebras show up at the same point. Theres not a big difference for video...the only difference really is the Z8 handles underexposure better, so you can stretch the image a little more with noise reduction.

Thanks!

Thank you! I shot this all in 6k nraw.

Metabones made (Not sure if they still do) an ultra speed booster for micro 4/3 that went from FD to m4/3 and it was awesome. I would mainly use that with my FD lenses, and just occasionally would use a dummy adapter if I was wanting more reach out of my lenses

@@lorenzonarwhal in my experience the best way to shoot this cam is to expose as bright as possible while doing your best to preserve the highlights. This is obviously much easier if the scene doesn’t have major differences between lights and darks.

@@hhankx thanks! Lamp temp was def on the very warm side. By the time you adjusted for skin tone, it gave the more blue effect…and then just did some slight color shifts with hue v hue and hue vs sat

Thank you so much! The monstro is awesome. It was def my favorite image I have gotten from a camera up to this point. If I was doing more commercial work or less carry around a camera for nine hours type work, I would still have it. I jacked up my back pretty bad after using it for a season, and moved to small stuff...but the monstro holds a special place in my heart.

@@joshkiddfilms1295back pain is never fun. ya big cameras is what keeps me away from an Amira or Alexa XT too. if i had crew all day but solo isnt that fun

Thank you so much!

I've owned the XH2s and it's a good cam, but I think I like this Nikon better simply because of its colors and its ability to shoot raw internal. The texture of the raw is really nice...and the fuji def can lack in that area unless shooting pro res in my experience. The fuji probably has a little bit better dynamic range tho.

My biggest issue with the Fuji was the overheating. Haven't run into that on the Nikon yet

@@joshkiddfilms1295 gotcha! Thank you for the response! I just bought an xh2s and I’ve been thinking about returning it for the z6iii. I just wish the z6iii had open gate for anamorphic! That’s the only thing stopping me from swapping….

Thanks so much!

NRAW by nature is kind of on the larger size, but these 6k 24 files aren't that big compared to the files on the Z8 I am use to. It's not too bad. Most of this video was shot with the 40mm f2 Nikon, and a few shots with the 28-75 Nikon. Maybe a couple of shots with a Leica R 50mm F2

@joshkiddfilms1295 Thx for the info

@@joshkiddfilms1295 How to you nikon 40mm after 28-75mm about sharpness?

@@PMFILMS the 40 is a little softer than the 28-75 I think, but still usable imo and has a nice character.

Thank you!

The flicker def exists. Its the worst at 5000, but really, when you work with a camera that has a dual gain iso sensor, its best anyways to stick to the bases if you can and ettr them...so when you shoot that way, and expose as bright as you can without clipping, I don't really feel like the flicker is an issue that shows up. I can't remember if I stabilized these shots...I don't think most of them had additional stabilization, probably just the ibis of the camera.

Thank you so much for your answer! So the flickering problem is not always shown at every iso setting but just when you rise the iso value far from the base iso?

@@lorenzonarwhal I would say if you are using the camera in a normal fashion, then yes, not really something that shows up. If you are underexposed a lot and then lifting shadows a bunch like these guys that were showing +3 and +4 recovery, you may see it even at the base isos. IMO the noise level even if underexposed is acceptable and cleans up well...its just the green to magenta flicker part thats an issue...and from what I understand, Nikon is actively working on a firmware fix for it, so I think an already very usable camera is just going to get even better soon.

Part of the issue is the view assist lut is just overly bright, so sometimes when you shoot with the camera, what looks to be normal is actually a little underexposed. hoping that is another thing that gets addressed. Results are much easier to gauge when viewing the cam in log with the view assist off.

@@joshkiddfilms1295 that’s a great info! Now I am using fujifilm xh2s but for many reasons I need to change the gear. Z6iii is the best on paper for the hybrid use I need but my main works are in bad lit gyms with often dark walls. So I have to face bright spots under lights or near windows and very dark corners. On my fuji I use 1280 ISO that is the native one bringing a little bit back offset control. I am really fascinated by the RED color science and hope in a great Nikon future, the only reason stopping me from buying z6III is the luma flickering issue in low lights/dark parts that someone shows in a massive way even in the darkest part of a bright clip in sunlight. If Nikon will fix this with firmware update for a sport shooter like me would be perfect! Even great slowmo features

@@petersuvara for this chain I did the standard workflow of cst to davinci wide gamut/intermediate and finished with the Nikon lut to get to r709. Then I cst’ed from r709 to r709 only changing the gamut to cineon, then applied the Kodak lut.

@@joshkiddfilms1295Nice! Could you make a short tutorial?

@@joshkiddfilms1295when you change gamut to cineon, from which gamut you start? I don’t know the nikon/Red lut conversion what give you, ok rec 709 but gamut? ( eg: gamma 2.2, gamma 2.4, rec709/rec709…)

@@lorenzonarwhal I think for this I went ahead and had the new red/nikon lut at the end of my normal chain, and then CST'd from r709 to cineon. I typically work with R709A when I'm doing any gamma with that being on a Mac

@@joshkiddfilms1295 so when you apply nikon/red lut the clip obtained is rec709 both for color space and gamut?

Thank you!

Thank you!

@@hufman9807 thanks for watching. You are right…Theres a lot of good cameras out there….and it’s diminishing returns basically at this point as I don’t think most of them really look all that different. The z63 is a lot of fun to use. The view assist could be better. The internal Nikon lut isn’t super accurate. But it’s a great cam. Nraw is great and has a ton of range. It doesn’t feel restrictive to use or like I’m fighting the camera…I just think the monitoring lut can be improved.

@@ZachBrownMedia a little bit of everything. Still have most of my manual glass but I have some Nikon af too. I like the 40mm f2 a lot and the 28-75 2.8

@@stranstudio thanks friend!

@@AdamBenjamin-z8y thank you! I had a p2 card reader that Panasonic had sent to the previous owner before I purchased it from him. It worked great and never gave me any issues.

Hey there. Yes they are full frame as they were originally designed for 35mm film. Both the m42 and Pentax k mounts have simple non glass adapters to convert them to L or E or even EF.

@@amadoundiaye3156 really depends on your camera. Most mirrorless options have an adapter that makes them easy to connect. If you are trying to use on an Ef mount, the adapters use a glass element and trash the image. Better to have them converted if using for Ef.

@@outdoorstours thank you!

@@dimitris.tsakalas thanks! On the s5 s35 mode cuts the rolling shutter down to very minimal without much quality loss.

I did use them a good bit with the s1h/s5 when I was using that combo, and they look very nice. The SMC pentax to me are a cleaner and smoother version of the takumar....and somewhat vanilla, not in a bad way really, but just with less character...which can be nice for most things

The F6 to me has some really nice and pros and a few cons...ultimately I did move on from it awhile back an shot DSCM2 reds for a few years...now shooting smaller hybrid canons, mainly just to save my back. Most cameras these days can get the job done tho

absolutely useless comment lol

thank you!

Right on! I have a whole set that I’ve been using for years. 28 Hollywood, 35 f2, 50 1.4, 85 1.8, and 135 2.8. They are great lenses!

Thank you!

I feel like these ones from pocket cams was either in normal 24 or I’d just hit hfr button and go to 48 or 60 fps for slo mo.

Thanks for the answer Josh!@@joshkiddfilms1295

Thanks so much!

Thank you for the kind words! I believe I had a ronin s here. Now using rs2 tho. Those are some great lenses!

I would say fairly easy. The m42 is just a screw on metal ring...the K mount is also a metal ring that just has a locking mechanism. Ive been using the K to EF for years with no issues with any EF mounts. The only time this presented a problem was on my .64 metabones EF mount. It didnt seem to like the K mount adapters for some reason