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Well yes slightly but I have discovered there are many replacements available on various websites, although I have not tried them. If it was loaded and turned over as large as it is you'd want stiffer ones. In retrospect.

It should whirr & have motor going but belts do break. I bought one from a guy & it was just an o-ring you could get at hardware store. Try that

@@dirkdaddy2 Ok but do you think the missing belt would cause it not to turn on at all with switch engaged on but if I flip it, it runs immediately.

@@MrBritrider no that sounds strange, but likely an easily fixable connection? Or if it's been heavily used the brushes could be worn pretty bad. If that's the case I mean you may want to just get another sander those are kind of outdated on the vacuum hole placement and your hook and loop pad will eventually come apart that's another thing that is a maintenance item on these. You add all that up and the hassle I don't know if you want to mess with it.

Yeah it is strange. I did replace the sanding pad last year and just ordered a belt off Amazon. I’ll see what adding the belt does and maybe crack it open to see what’s what maybe it’s something obvious. Thanks for your comment.

No you don't need to take hoses loose, the video shows moving compressor with them attached. Good luck

It's been solid! Holds ice well, people love the color too. No complaints

It varies I'm sure, I have no idea but if you have one, you have one. Typically trucks.

It sounds like you need a new compressor. Before you throw the old one out I'd remove the clutch & coil for spare or sell it, they seem to fail more than usual. Good luck.

@@dirkdaddy2 Hello again, it seems that the compressor voltage regulator is broken. But the most curious thing and what I'm trying to understand is why the alternator isn't charging the battery... it's incredible that they break at the same time.

@@freeminds17 Hard to say but if it's broken, you'll have to fix it. Used to be you could fix regulators without replacing the entire alternator, but it's likely all 1 part. No I don't think it's related.

@@freeminds17 on my truck I replaced the water pump and all the coolant lines and plastic fittings only to shortly afterwards discover the thermostat wasn't working properly and it was opened up too much and the engine wouldn't get hot enough. So things can break about the same time.

@@dirkdaddy2 If I start the engine without a belt, can I test if the compressor is seized by trying to move it by hand?

Glad this was able to help!

Yes any of the standard cell micro USB cords work and it will charge. Interesting Aldi had that.

@@dirkdaddy2 It was branded "Workzone". I would have expected it to have some charge just out of the package, but it was dead. Couldn't get it to charge using the provided USB plug, no charging indicator lights. After reading the ALDI product reviews, I discovered this happens often with this particular product, or it dies after a few recharges. I took it back. Too bad, I really wanted that light. LOL Oh well.

My dad buys a lot of junk at Aldi's. He got electric razor and a battery was junk on that. He got a bathroom scale that feels like it's falling apart when you step on it. I forget all the stuff he's got in there and he thought it was a great deal but it always ends up being junk. The version I got at Costco has worked for a couple years for me and I have two of them They come to in a pack If I recall.

@@dirkdaddy2 They do sell a lot of junk. But that rebranded light is exactly the same as the Costco brand. The only difference I see is the charging cord plugs into a USB-C outlet in the unit as opposed to a micro-USB. I was thinking maybe they sat on a cargo ship for a year waiting to get unloaded, and the battery totally drained out. My understanding is lithium batteries don't like that, and may not recover. IDK. When you got yours, did they power up right out of the box? Or were they dead?

@@zippy2641 As I recall they were about 3/4 charged. typically that's the way to store these new batteries is not to the top about 3/4. If it doesn't charge up you need to take it back. The case may be the same I'm not sure the inside is.

They are designed in the United States I think but the manufacturing it currently in China the last I heard however when I contacted the company they said that they were planning on moving that to the United States.

@@dirkdaddy2 Great to know. I hope they do bring their product line to the US. I would prefer to wait with that china stamp on it. Thanks for the info.

I can't find a tray to fit my frosted frog 45 cooler. Where did you get yours?

@@Pixandpok I just ordered it with the cooler at the same time. They sell them separately too. The yeti one fits fairly well not perfectly as I show in there in the video. The frosted frog one is quite a bit lighter weight which can be a positive or a negative depending on how you look at it.

Hey Glad it's helping you! As I showed in the video I just cleaned the bearings out with like WD-40 and then air pressure from the air compressor and then put new lube in it. I doubt you need bearings! although it's possible I mean I needed bearings recently on a bunch of other tools!

And I'm still using it fairly heavily and it still working!

I’ve had this one over 20 years and have only changed the pad 2 or 3 times and the pad support once. Not only did I put a lot of miles on it, friends and family have gave it a workout. I appreciate the RUclipsrs who put out instructional videos. The saying “sharing is caring” applies to these self help aids. Keep up the good work. By the way I will check the bearings before I order.

Hello just to clarify nothing I showed or talked about is a servo, but I didn't get into hydrostatic drive, this was about starting interlocks & switches. What exactly are symptoms?

@@dirkdaddy2 goodness me, my comment was meant for another video. Sorry about that. Runs for a few minutes okay and then start sputtering losing power and then we'll die. Then it'll start and sputter I made it back to the shop. Everything checks out of zeroed in on the servo. Under 70 bucks free shipping. They say they go bad and it's been 12 years since we bought the tractor. They wanted almost $300 for the part at the Kubota shop. I told them thank you very much and walked out. They wouldn't even test the old one. Oh well under 70 bucks I'll have a new one. And give her a test run out in the field mowing. Going to go over the switches you were talking about too give a little oil in them sometimes they get sticky and someone will say hey she ain't starting and I'll say your foot pedals and stuff and such may be off a little bit and they'll tap it or jiggle it and then the dang thing starts up and runs fine. But for now I'm waiting on that servo. Yes I checked all fuses they good. New fuel filter. All oils and lubricants have been changed in their filters. Air filters check. If it's not the servile someone was talking about the key switch I think it was you. I felt up behind with my fingers and it feels like it's all rubber sealed off. Hard to imagine that it's fouled. Nice video you have here and thanks for putting up with me. LOL

@@daveman5860 Well like they say diesels it's all about either compression or fuel delivery and sounds like you have some sort of fuel delivery problem. If you don't use it there's a whole ton I would check the quality of the diesel fuel and then if there's some sort of a way to check the injector pump. Good luck it sounds like you might be on the right track This was somebody else's tractor and it was pretty new so I never had to really get into it like what you're doing except for this interlock problem!

Yes! It wasn't just that header either I found two others in the same room like that One a large span over what was French type interior doors.

God help you bro. Finding old bad workmanship kills an estimate. I hope you bid this as cost plus!

Winner! Yes there were 3 headers that were not supported by proper length ! One not shown the L jack stud was missing to fit a closet door!

oh that's one thing but the major problem is more that those jack studs they're supposed to support the header are like close to a quarter inch short so they're not supporting anything with that header!

@@dirkdaddy2 I see that now, thanks 👍

I assume you are getting power to 30? And is the wire to jump thick enough?

Sorry I have no idea, if you take the old one to parts store I'm confident you can find a replacement! Report back and I can spread the word!

Hello, I have a 2630 as well and the dash lights up but won't turn over. Did you replace the neutral switch or the OPC?

@@billyroeder8627 Hi. Where to start on this topic!? First check your OPC fuse. It's clearly marked as such in the fuse box. 5 Amp. If the fuse is good, are you getting a click sound when you turn the key? That's the fuel solenoid. If you aren't hearing that very loud click, then you might have a different problem. If you hear the click, but the starter won't engage and spin the engine, then it is likely the OPC circuit. My problems over the years have been with the neutral switch that prevents the engine from being started if the transmission lever is not in neutral, as well as with the throttle switch. I have not replaced the OPC. I have had the neutral safety switch replaced. But, they last about a year and then break again, immobilizing the tractor. You need to go through the obvious stuff first before you start suspecting the OPC module, which is under the dash. Also check the switches under the seat for continuity with a VOM.

Glad it might help you! Tractors don't change designs frequently so seems like its still getting a lot of hits! I don't monitize my stuff just like to help.

All you got to do is find those little tabs and use the small screwdriver bend it up just a little bit + don't break them off - and then do the other one and then the other one and hopefully you can get the things started opening up and just keep going around back and forth on those tabs it's not too bad but it isn't easy.

@@dirkdaddy2 yeah I figured it out & nearly destroyed it lol, thanks for reply. I thought the bulb was burned out but it was just the 'bus' needed some cleaning up. Lasted 20 years not bad

It was nothing. If you get a solenoid clunk you likely have Insufficient battery power, or a bad connection on battery, a wiring issue, and other less likely things.