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I used 2-4D. You can buy this at Tractor Supply, ruralking, any local farm/garden center or offline as well. You'll want to get a surfactant as well. Cygnet plus is sold by the gallon. Lily pads have a waxy surface and this breaks that down for the herbicide to make better contact with it. Another herbicide I'm considering is IMOX. It is more expensive but some say it is better though I've got no experience to say one way or the other yet. I'll post a short video showing my sprayer setup. 5.5 GPM electric pump from northerntool, any sprayer tank, and get a JD9 spraygun. The spraygun let's you adjust the spray from a stream to a spray like from a hand sprayer. I can consistently get 20-30 feet from this setup using a 3/8 sprayer hose.

​@@peanut_knife_works8417 Does the 2,4 d kill the root?

It worked very well. My pond is so large it's just not as effective unless I'm spot treating. If you want to keep it localized in a specific area it will work fine. What are you treating?

@@peanut_knife_works8417 I'm treating lillie pads in a small section of a bay. I have roundup custom aquatic and wanted to try distributing it this way. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks

I'm currently using 2-4D I bought from tractor Supply. A 2.5 gallon, check the label and it will tell you if it is for spraying ponds, most is from what I've seen. I believe it was a 2-4D amine. Do you have a large pond? meaning will a hand sprayer around the edge work or do you need more as I have a decent setup now to spray from a boat a good distance.

@@peanut_knife_works8417 it’s about a half acre

@@shawnrussell1786 I'd probably get a good hand pump garden sprayer with a brass tip. 2-4D that is aquatic rated, almost all I checked at tractor supply and rural king were. Also a good surfactant, any surfactant is better than none but an MSO or cygnet plus as it will break down the waxy build up. From my experience some will come back and you'll need to respray but it'll be far less than original.

@@shawnrussell1786 I would say a good hand sprayer would work or you can get one of the electric sprayers from tractor supply or harbor freight. I'll post a video of my setup next week. I have a lot of video ideas but unfortunately had a lot of family and personal issues that pulled me away. That's changing this year.

It helps tighten the clamp on the beam. Basically you can use it to press down on the mortiser and clamp against the beam as well to prevent it from sliding front-back.

The label for the herbicide will tell you the application rate, some are for spraying the plants directly, and others are per "acre feet". Basically I weigh how much litter I used to start with then how many gallons/ounces of herbicide I was able to get it to absorb. Then figure that ounces per acre. Generally in the water this stuff isn't going to hurt the fish it is more to make sure I don't waste too much by over doing the treatment. Meaning you can use the "P" formula, plenty, and still kill the weeds but leave the pond alone. I'll try to make a video soon to answer the questions I've gotten so far.

Glad it helped!

I'll test to confirm but I'm pretty sure it will do an 8inch beam with the 7104. The older model won't. I take the one side off of the clamp so it will sit on the beam and use my foot to keep it from walking to the side as I plunge for larger beams.

Any bar and chain oil is fine. I use the spray can stuff to try to keep from over oiling it. If I'm doing a barn then the pour is fine just it can stain the wood in that area if you're not careful. Most of the time it will be covered but I try to limit the risk. You don't need to oil it much, once maybe twice per day is more than enough.

Yeah I’m doing quite a few holes I saw someone say they were oiling after two holes which is crazy. I had spayed with wd but there was a good amount of sling and it didn’t feel like it really lubricated the chain well.

@@darizzfoshiz8749 I prefer the regular BnC oil, when I can I use a brush to apply it or pour it on and then run for a few seconds to sling it off. There isn't much need to lubricate after every 2-3 holes. It spins at 1/10 the speed of a chainsaw and gets far less use as well.

@@darizzfoshiz8749 That would be extremely excessive. I'm hoping to get back on track next year. I've got some smaller projects I want to do to show people how to get started but it's been an interesting year.

It is. I wanted to show this so people could understand it isn't that bad and there's nothing to be afraid of when purchasing one of these.

There are power tool repairshops in the US, though it is a bit of a dying breed. They can get parts from the major manufacturers. I did find a parts list online so if you google search 7100b makita mortiser parts diagram it will come up. If you can't find a tool repairshop there are electric motor repairshops that may be able to help or point you in the right direction. Also never underestimate reaching out to Makita as well. They may be able to help, though at full retail I'm sure.

No but I'm going to do one later this year. Basically you can get an electric fertilizer spreader or sling it by hand. Ideally the spreader is preferred as it will distribute things more evenly but both methods will work.

does the liquid herbicide mixed with the oil dry do the same as a pre-emergent granular herbicide? I’m wanting to kill lilies early this spring at the root level with granular herbicide, and like the idea of the savings, but not sure if the liquids will achieve the sameas specific granular herbicides like aqua side?​@@peanut_knife_works8417

IT came this way from NH. I'd prefer some different ends myself but that's what they shipped it with. They changed them after this model to the JIC I believe.

A second application was necessary for mine due to how long they've been left untouched. This was part of our family farm and I moved away and wasn't able to help as my father's health declined so they've been in place for 6+ years. I would guess first application killed 70%, second application got 15-18% and I have a few stragglers I may spray this fall.

I would also recommend getting a proper orchard sprayer. I went back this year with a 5GPM pump and a Hudson 38505 spray gun and I could spray 20-30 feet depending upon the breeze at the time.

How many gallons did it take? And how big is the pond

Yes it does. I've tried to avoid some of the more expensive custom tools in the videos to try to help people understand you don't need them to do work. They certainly help though and I wish I had my old one, it is lost forever.

@@peanut_knife_works8417 yea I have an old one, set it once for the project and you’re away!!

@@Pizza_boy07 I'm hoping to get into some consistent work later this year if things go well and will pick one up.

Thanks. Glad to help!

No. I bought it off ebay. No extra fees just the price of the item.

@@peanut_knife_works8417 thanks!

I had to adjust the mortiser along the cut yes. I couldn't just leave it at the original settings so I adjusted it to the lines. It usually isn't that bad but sometimes it has a larger bow in it that requires more than a tweak. That's how I handled the bow.

WDE back Rob

@@peanut_knife_works8417 Are you located in Alabama?

@@cutthecord3gn689 I'm from south georgia but went to college at Georgia Southern and Auburn years back. I now live in Virginia.

@@peanut_knife_works8417 ahh ok Roll Tide!

@@cutthecord3gn689 War Eagle Back at you LOL.

Thanks. I'm glad to help and glad the videos are helpful. If there is something you have a question about or would find helpful let me know.

@@peanut_knife_works8417 thanks for the reply. I just wondered how you felt about the Makita morticers given the price difference? Regards. Michael

@@Michael-mh5pu It is tough to answer. The 7100b typically goes for 400-500 on ebay shipped. The 7104 I see typically for 900+. I got a deal on mine is why I picked it up. I'd go for whatever is in your budget. The 7104 is faster since you can do multiple cuts from one position but either will save you a lot of time over by hand. If you have the money I would look at a swisspro. If you call them they regularly have refurbished ones in but those are around 2,000 american. I nearly pulled the trigger on the swiss pro but decided not to and saved the cash for use elsewhere.

Ebay has them regularly for 400-500 dollars, shipped in some instances. There are forums dedicated to timber framing as well where they come up for sale as well.

Yeah I'm going to redo the video in the near future. I'm going to check the adjustment on mine in the next day or two to make sure what is causing the adjustment issue. I bought this one used from ebay for just over 500 shipped to my door so I didn't ask questions. I've used the 7100b for years so an adjustable one was new to me and I just figured two positions is what they allowed. I honestly didn't even do must testing with it I took it out of the box and put it to use.

You have the adjusting bolt and nut backed out too much on the second setting if that makes sense.

@@reed1541 It does. I'll correct that. Thanks.

​@@peanut_knife_works8417 Which eBay vendor did you go with? Not sure of the difference but of course they claim they are all the best! Really interested in one of these

@@reed1541 ​ Which eBay vendor did you go with? Not sure of the difference but of course they claim they are all the best! Really interested in one of these

Como posso ajudá-lo?

It does. I've bought a nicer microphone for outdoors but it still picks up road noise and on some days the wind still gets picked up. I will continue to improve on that front.

It's not the road noise. It's cutting in and out.

@@samuelwilliamsii828 Sam apologies on that. I'll pay more attention in the editing. I've had it cut in and out at times due to the wind. It seems the gopro tries to adjust for wind and the gusts mess it up. Thanks for watching and I'm working on the audio issues.

The chain and most of the parts can be bought online. These are old school power tools. No electronics or circuit boards in them to control motor speed etc... Literally a switch for on/off power to the motor which is a universal motor. Brushes can be replaced and if you wanted to you could rewind the motor to repair it completely. Were you looking for something specific?

This is designed to take a tension load. A scarf joint is typically designed to handle compression from a roof for example. So the spline would keep the joint from pulling apart but wouldn't take a lot of downward pressure from say a roof or a floor above. I'm not a structural engineer but those are the basic differences. Again that doesn't mean they both can't do the job it just depends on species, size and design of the joint or spline.

I'm not sure of the differences. I searched and was not able to locate a spec sheet listing the differences. I have seen some slight differences in some models of the 7104. 1. newer models appear to come with a dust cover over the chain whereas some models do not. I'm guessing this is a new addition or requirement for safety in some countries. 2. my other suspicion is you may have slight upgrades on the 'L" model to improve ease of manufacture. Pure speculation on my part as I've not noticed any differences in images thus far between the 7104s I've seen online or in person. If I do notice anything I will come back and update this later.

@@peanut_knife_works8417 OK thanks for the great answer!

I had the 7100 first and then saw a good deal on the 7104 and bought it.

@@peanut_knife_works8417 I was looking at eBay and there are a lot of these for sale but the prices are a bit scattered. I don’t know what determines a 7104 for $496 and another 7104 for $760. Did you get yours on eBay? What helped you in deciding which seller to go with if you did use eBay?

Thanks. It can be. The switch on the handle is something to watch out for for sure.

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