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Can it do reasonably well galaxies and nebula?

A 20mpx color camera is actually a 80mp sensor divided up by the Bayer pattern, so each pixel is made up of a red, blue and 2green. No loss of resolution.

Just finished watching this, thanks for explaining the process. One question though, why don’t you just take flats with the lens cover of the telescope on instead of covering it with something else? What’s the difference? I’m sure it’s not that simple but I don’t understand why you couldn’t do that. Keep up the great work 👍

All this software is far from practical for visual use.

another reason to use shorter exposure length for me ... the planes flying over me on the way to chicago west - east or north - south to Milwaukee . fewer wasted frames > 120 seconds

ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS RORO! I AM SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING THIS MOUNT FROM BILL AT SIDEREAL TRADING, DUE ITS LIGHTWEIGHT PORTABILITY AND VERSATILE PAYLOAD CAPACITY. THANK YOU RORO. A. SORAYA 😊

Very useful. So you did 2 sets of data in the end, right? One set, tracking the comet and another to track stars (to avoid elongated stars on the final image), right?

@RoRo- Your video on the 190MN helped convince me to buy one. It's been great so far, but the focuser sucks rocks. I just got the Moonlite and the mounting plate for that scope. Any tips, lessons learned, etc before I do this install? I'm going to avoid removing any of the optics if I can. Also, the small ring drawn on the secondary mirror - do I want to align that to the center of the focuser or ignore it? I am finding conflicting answers online. Some are saying yes, some are saying it should be offset from the center of the focuser and to only align the full illuminated secondary circle and primary center spot to the center of the focuser. I know not to move the secondary or the main optical elements at all. Thanks!

Yes, and proud you should be! Excellent work Rowen!

Excellent job. Thanks for posting.

I just bought the new version, the HAE29C and I received no test sheet of factory testing? That's disappointing?! I wonder if they no longer provide those in general or if it just happened to be left out of mine when it was packaged??!

601

Really great and efficient way of putting it

Been a long time since saw your last video :( interesting video and good to see you still using the MN 190

Great Video! Did you ever make a video detailing the filter choices to purchase? Also - when do you take the flats for each filter? The following morning with a T-shirt, or do you use some kind of white screen after the imaging session with each filter?

When imaging deep sky objects with bright areas, excessively long exposure times can blow out the bright areas. Each camera imaging sensor has a limit to the number of photons a pixel can hold after which it becomes saturated.

Well done Rohan. Casual without a script is fine. I'm thinking you had to drive about 2 hours. With all those batteries failing, it's a wonder your battery car made it out and back home :-)

Cool! But Saturn disappearing behind the moon isn't an "optical illusion" though, is it? Or am I missing something?

Interesting.

Dude, did you fall in love with the 10micron and eloped into the desert never to be seen again?

Love how the dog suddenly awakes whenever something heavy is getting moved.

The fact you must use approved power adapters is very silly. I don't like that you can't download the drivers from their website either.

thank you for sharing

Awesome 🖖🏼

Any idea if you can pair this with a reducer, like the Starizona Nexus to bring it to 750mm @f3.9 ?

Another great video! Good guiding is round stars. Good guiding is also not sharing guiding information with people on Facebook! LOL!

The second video about this that makes incredible sense..to me

what tele did you use? how did you use the sv105 to get a pic?

Very inter and good for beginners like me

Thanks for the video. I am looking for a tutorial that explains how change (tweak) the RA and DEC to match (or at least get them as close as possible on a given night/conditions.

Just started to watch this… I have watched several of your videos; and thanks for sharing your knowledge. BUT, it does bug me when people say “Our eyes are most sensitive in the green because we evolved to see danger in grasses.” Our eyes are most sensitive at the 555, and with basic understanding of color one would say that’s green. But there is more than just 3 colors and 555 is literally yellow. The star our planet orbits is also a yellow star. Wouldn’t it make more sense that we are more sensitive to yellow because that is the main color of the light that hits our planet? And evolving that way makes as much sense, and then again it would also be that way if an intelligent creator made it (and us) that way. Just another point of view.

Great video Rowan! I am currently looking at the HAE29 and the AM5. You have provided a wealth of information pertaining to the HAE29, which is very scarce. If you could could you'd please provided a more detailed picture for connecting the AA+ and Say Safari for MAC users. That would be most appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to present this great review.

I know this is not a new video but it has been very helpful to me since I’m considering taking the color to mono step. Can you suggest a good video on processing in PI for mono narrowband data?. Also if you have any updates on this current video, please share. Thank you. p.s. I also appreciate the clarity in your presentation.

Absolutely fantastically explained video. You didn't leave anything out, something that's been missing from other videos I've seen. Loved the formulas and charts, and also liked the fact that you did a real test between two methods. The level of detail in this video made me sub instantly. Keep up the awesome content!

I have been using a GPS compass for true north and a digital level for latitude on my manual Meade LX70 with motor on RA for years. Not as accurate as this but do not use it for deep space. And do not have the money for a mount like yours. Poor mans alignment and can be done during the day. I move my mount about because have a limited view of the night sky due to buildings and trees and light pollution. Still fun to do and I am 81yrs.

When the polar alignment turned green then what is the minimum error from perfect?

Great video! Pretty cool and detailed. Do you have the option of using the ASIAIR Plus? Thank you and have a nice day.

I think, the less the time you expose, the more frames you acquire AND the most well-guided images will be taken. At the same time, you ensure your guiding will continue to be as desired, and the focus, as well, so lees frames to be thrown away. Flat fields are an absolute must (fortunately with NINA it seems to be relatively easy, as it calculates the ideal time per filter depending on the minimum and maximum time per filter you set).

I’d rather use a lower exposure and get a more accurate detailed shot, than potentially blowing out my shot with an exposure I had no business taking. The hobby isn’t going anywhere. Take your time and enjoy your time under the stars.

For over $10K this mount must make you coffee every morning and read most recent astro news.

For any beginners to narrow band I recommend the SVBONY220 it’s a H-alpha and O-iii dual band filter whith an OD5 for only $125

I bought my MN190 4 years ago, and it was my first scope for imaging, after doing visual with a refractor and a SCT. Your review covers well all the reasons I wanted the MN190. I am still puzzled why more people do not use it. I got mine used with the moonlight focuser already installed, so it was super simple to set up and use and quite. affordable (especially compared to a refractor!). The weight issue is funny to me. If you get a refractor that has a 1000mm focal length in most cases it will be about the same weight as the MN. The only real disadvantage is wind, which I have experienced. You did not mention the other big issue for the MN190, which is its propensity to gather dew in wet climates since the corrector plate is right in front end of scope. This is easily solved with a dew strap, but just another thing to keep in mind. I highly recommend for astrophotography. I use with a Ioptron CEM40 mount without issue.

Hope all is well since you haven't posted in a while. Thank you for the review. I'm looking to upgrade from an AVX mount which I'm currently using with a C8, Starizona reducer/corrector/ Celestron OAG, ASI174MM guide and ASI071MC. Weight is shy under 19lbs (8.6kg) and this one of only two reviews. Thanks.

Hi RoRo, Did you ever actually use a full-frame camera with this telescope? Can you post your results? SkyWatcher says it's only corrected to APS-C so I'd like to see the stars at the corners of a full-frame camera.

Can you use the mount on a Berlebach tripod instead of an iOptron? Why is the power connection not at the back of the mount instead of the front?

did something happen to your channel? I was subscribed. Looked for some videos on harmonic drives and found yours and clicked on it and found out that I'm no longer subscribed. Weird.

Regarding dark current, one should keep in mind that virtually no location has dark enough skies for the small dark current of new CMOS cameras at even moderate cooling.

The whole f/ratio race is a bit weird to me. The aperture defines how much light gets into the tube, all the f/ratio than does is to tell you how much magnification you get. For visual, it might have some place, but with an f/4 scope the subject is just going to be smaller. If you want that, you can also downsample the images or use bigger pixels...

Just saw that SharpCap Pro - Histrogram tool has a brain function that for your gear and camera and target and filter works out exactly what your optimal exposure time should be - using Dr Robin Glover's algorithm. It suggests way longer exposure times (up to 2x - 6x times longer) than nearly every other astrophotography video I have seen on the web - might be worth an investigation...

So the 15 seconds is like lucky imaging then? It seems like it’s longer than like the lucky planetary imaging.