Видео

Glad it worked for you!

Sounds like a better way!

You can find them on page 114 of this book: www.google.com/books/edition/Reports_of_Experiments_with_Small_Arms_f/b4dAAQAAIAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1

You can buy a template with a mandrel here: www.forth-armoury.com/cartridge-template-kits.html#/

​@stevensheldon9271 what kind of paper did you use for the powder chamber? Kraft paper?

@@skylerslack12At Home Depot / Lowes there are two kinds of masking paper in the paint section. One is a flimsy, newspaper-like paper that is good for the outer pieces. They also sell a heavier paper that works well for the powder chamber.

Page 115: play.google.com/store/books/details?id=cXkDAAAAYAAJ

Or, you can buy a template with forming tool here: www.forth-armoury.com/cartridge-template-kits.html

Yeah it's kind of a crummy video.

Yes, with the help of John Robey I was able to get the N-SSA rules changed to allow the use of US-style paper cartridges for general use (instead of just in the Traditional Match as it was previously). The N-SSA allows this style of cartridge because no paper goes down the bore when using it. It is simply a carrier for the powder and bullet. One of my teammates shoots with historical cartridges and he is plenty fast with them!

If it was a reflection I think the spiral would go in the opposite way (to match what is at the opposite side of the bore).

@@stevensheldon9271 I couldnt work out if the mirror would reverse the image or not.....just a thought. Does it shoot well? I recently bought a borescope and spoiled my day when I found out that most of my surplus rifles looked rough but still shot well......classic example of Ignorance is bliss ! Best wishes and seasons greetings from the UK.

@@marcusmason3440 Yes, it shoots very well, especially since I have discovered the secret of using "Christmas tree" bullets where the first driving band is small enough to fit into the bore. Thus the bullet "headspaces" on the second driving band, not the first. This enables the bullet to be more closely aligned coaxially with the bore due to it already being started int the bore. Cartridge Sharps shooters have known and done this for a long time - their bullets protrude out of the cartridge a considerable distance and go into the bore of the gun. I had to have a custom mold made to do this. None of the commercial Christmas Tree bullets do this with my Pedersoli 1859 Sharps.

True, I did not think of doing that since I have lit many test batches before. But you are right, for the video it would be better to have shown it lighting off!

Good catch!

@@stevensheldon9271 Steve - Hopefully, I didn't sound too critical about that info. Before my comment, I went back and double checked the "Small Arms" document...actually hoping I was wrong, since the mixture of 3 parts tallow to 1 part wax makes for a very greasy cartridge at times. Depending on temperature, it can actually start soaking through the outer paper once completed. No wonder they changed the mixture. I actually think 3 parts wax to 1 part tallow would do better. I really wish this video had been around many years ago when I had nothing but the written word of the ordnance manuals to follow! One quick question - what type of paper do you use for the inner 1"x2" powder cylinder of the 1855 cartridge? I have no reference to how thick the "rocket paper" was back in the day. I find if I use ordinary copy/printer paper the 1"x2" cylinder portion things come out fine. If I use heavier card stock paper for the powder cylinder, there just isn't enough paper of the inner wrapper to fold over and glue without a small hole in the middle which powder can sift through. Once again, very well done video! Thank you for taking the time to do it!

@@Flintlock85 It was just a screw-up on my part. Traditional thinking in the 1850s in England was that more tallow was better for making the anti-fouling agent more greasy. By the 1860s it was discovered that tallow actually encouraged corrosion of the lead, increasing its diameter. The British eventually settled on 100% beeswax as the ideal anti-fouling agent. My guess is the United States followed a similar trajectory with the pre-1860 lubricant being 1:3 beeswax:tallow, and in the 1861 manual becoming 1:8 tallow:beeswax.

@@Flintlock85 Home Depot sells large rolls of masking paper which is thick, almost like a construction paper. This is what I use for the stiffener in the 1855 cartridge. I believe the Ordnance manual calls it "rocket paper". As I recall there is actually a section in the Ordnance Manual that describes paper and the tests to test it to determine if it is up-to-spec. Of course period paper was mostly cotton rag and most paper today is made from wood pulp. It doesn't make much difference for US-style cartridges since all the paper is discarded, unlike the British cartridge where the paper forms a patch for the bullet.

@@stevensheldon9271 Good information...thanks! I use 3-M masking paper for my cartridges, (1861 pattern), as it is the closest thing I have found in modern times which comes close to the color and thickness of original cartridges in my collection. The "rocket paper" was more of a mystery to me, and the card stock paper I tried was just a little too thick. I will have to get some of the stuff you mentioned in your last reply. Thanks once again!!

4thla.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/9/6/37969349/_1855_expanding_ball_instructions.pdf 4thla.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/9/6/37969349/_1862_expanding_ball_instructions.pdf

When I called and told them it was leaking from under the plastic flange, they immediately said it needed to be replaced.

I'm afraid I don't understand your question.

Yes. All of my guns are modern reproductions of historic arms.

Pedersoli 1959 Sharps Carbine.

Yup, I've seen the ct page years ago.

Hi.i haven't ever paper patched my original p53,but might give it a go.. I do p.p my .40 1865 sporting rifle.i use baking paper,here in nz its slightly greased on one side and thin.i dip the strip in water ,roll twice around and turn over the base, which I leave about 3 mm protruding past the base...once dried it shrinks round the lube groves.then on shooting day I heat up my lubes.( 49% olive oil ,49% bees wax,2 % engine oil) I keep my premeasured charge separate to avoid lubes contaminating the charge. Thanks for you great video.

There are many surviving examples of cartridges made of truly white paper. Many British Enfield cartridges were made of white paper, and remain white to this day. My suspicion is that most US style cartridges were made of a brownish paper. But, if you read Thomas' Round Ball to Rimfire, even though the photos are mostly black and white, you can see that surviving cartridges come in a variety of hues. One Confederate arsenal US style cartridge is said to have paper of a "pinkish" hue. The biggest discrepancy is not probably the color but the raw materials of the paper itself. Paper of the era was generally "cotton rag" paper. Modern paper is mostly made from wood pulp. My mandrel is .58" which is sufficient for any "58 caliber" arm. The US style cartridge was discarded and not loaded in the bore so it only needs to be sized to hold the bullet well. My competition guns use .576 and .578 bullets - a .58" mandrel works fine for these. The dowel does not need to be precision-sized. I might be better served with a slightly smaller mandrel for making the powder chamber so that the outer diameter of the powder cylinder matches the bullet diameter.

@@stevensheldon9271 Thanks for the reply. My goal has always been to make cartridges like the war issued ones. I assume bullets of about .575 dia., and lubed. My former of less than .580 works well. The only reference to the paper that I have found is that it was "unbleached", or at least an off white color. We need to find an expert in paper making in the 19th century. Best wishes, Kerry

What's a good brand?

Great idea!

I just returned it to Lowes and got a new water heater, as the unit was brand new. I called AO Smith and they told me to return it to the store and get a replacement, and they gave me a code. They would not, however, reimburse me for my labor to uninstall and re-install, even though I bought the extended warranty from Lowe's which covers it. AO Smith would reimburse a professional installer up to $100, and Lowes would pay up to $300 but again reimbursement to a professional installer. What I should have done was written up a fake invoice and gotten paid for my troubles. In the end I had to go through 2 replacements before I got a good one. The first (the one in the video ) leaked, and the second one was all dented when I got it out of the cardboard. The last one has been a very good water heater so far (2 months) and runs hotter and provides hot water longer than the old AO Smith of similar size it replaced.

@@stevensheldon9271 Thank you for responding quickly. I too like to fix things on my own before calling in the cavalry. Yes, an invoice would have helped in your situation. Live and learn. Glad the hit water is flowing again. Thank you very much. It was very helpful. Cheers!

Tallow.

Same size as the bullet. .58 inches.

Here are the cartridges being loaded and fired: ruclips.net/video/p71eysh_OGw/видео.html

The US Expanding ball cartridge was used by tearing off the tail of the cartridge with the teeth, and then pouring the black powder down the muzzle. Then the cartridge was broken open and the lubricated bullet removed from the paper, which was discarded. The bullet was then placed in the muzzle and rammed down the barrel with the ramrod. None of the paper goes down the barrel with the US cartridge. Yes, you can make similar cartridges with round balls, and this was done with smoothbore ammunition, except in that case the ball was left in the paper and the paper went down the barrel with the ball, and the ball was under-sized to accommodate the thickness of the paper. If you look for videos on how to Load in Nine Times, you will see how to load US expanding ball ammunition. ruclips.net/video/5cWh3w9atTw/видео.html

I find they are relaxing to make, too. I guess it's kind of like crochet or cross stitch. :) Things get tucked away in drawers and forgotten, I guess. Here are some examples of surviving artifacts you can buy: www.americancivilwarrelics.com/Civil%20War%20Cartridge.htm I'm not endorsing these products, it was just an example that showed up doing a Google search.

Yup! But the Sharps is my go-to competition gun for shooting carbine in the N-SSA. I still think it could to better accuracy wise. I have recently gotten a new Lee double-cavity Christmas Tree mold said to replicate the old Rapine Sharps mold. I have not had a chance to try it out yet. But you can't beat the Sharps for rate of fire on the firing line using combustible cartridges! I still miss that pretty P53 though! :) I shoot a Frankenstein Euroarms P53 in competition. Not very pretty but with its Dan Whitacre barrel it's a tack driver!

Hi Daniel! Thanks for the reply! I believe the British Enfield cartridge was the ultimate evolution of muzzleloading military ammunition. But I think the ammunition is harder to manufacture. You have to have a good supply of consistent-quality paper. You have to have well-made, well-sized bullets. You have to correctly assemble the cartridge, and then correctly lubricate and size the finished cartridge. With the US style of cartridge, the only critical component is to properly size the bullet. I believe the difficulties in manufacture of the Enfield style cartridge is why the Confederacy was never able to completely adopt it as their primary ammunition style until the end of the war, and then the order to do so was immediately rescinded. Even for the Union, who had sufficient industrial resources to properly make Enfield-style ammunition, during wartime emergency it was probably faster to make 1862-style ammunition.

Sorry, I have not done much research into round ball ammunition. I recommend Round Ball to Rimfire by Dean Thomas.

Steven Sheldon thanks Steven

I now have videos up regarding US 69 caliber round ball and buck and ball cartridges.

1855: 4thla.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/9/6/37969349/_1855_expanding_ball_instructions.pdf 1862: 4thla.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/9/6/37969349/_1862_expanding_ball_instructions.pdf The ordnance manuals are not clear on the thickness of the paper, as I recall. But there was a section somewhere that explained the requirements for different kinds of paper (how much weight a sheet of it could suspend, as I recall). I use rolls of lightweight brown masking paper from Lowes or Home Depot for the main body pieces, and a light construction paper for the stiffener. Lowes and Home Depot also sell a heavier brown masking paper that I use for that purpose.

Steven Sheldon thanks!

1855: 4thla.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/9/6/37969349/_1855_expanding_ball_instructions.pdf 1862: 4thla.weebly.com/uploads/3/7/9/6/37969349/_1862_expanding_ball_instructions.pdf The ordnance manuals are not clear on the thickness of the paper, as I recall. But there was a section somewhere that explained the requirements for different kinds of paper (how much weight a sheet of it could suspend, as I recall). I use rolls of lightweight brown masking paper from Lowes or Home Depot for the main body pieces, and a light construction paper for the stiffener. Lowes and Home Depot also sell a heavier brown masking paper that I use for that purpose.

Thicker paper increases the final diameter of the finished projectile, which may make loading harder. I don't remember which diameter bullet I used here - .566 or .550. I think I used the .550. With the .550 it's a little more forgiving with paper size. With the .566 you pretty much have to use very thin paper like "onion skin" paper.

I believe I did try these out of my Pedersoli P1853 Enfield and Pedersoli P1858 Enfield, but I got the best results with my Euroarms P1853 that has a custom Whitacre barrel with progressive depth rifling.

What is a good Enfield replica to get one of these Whitacre barrels for? Since I'd be changing the barrel, all tat would matter would be a the stock and lock.

In my opinion, the best reproduction Enfields on the market today are made by Pedersoli. Beware, though, within the last 6 months or so they made a "design change" to add a clean-out screw to the side of the bolster, which is not historically correct. After much hue and cry from the shooting and re-enacting community, they vowed to change it back. But I suspect that there are still Pedersoli Enfields in the retail channel with the clean-out screw. If this matters to you, then verify before you buy that yours does not have the clean-out screw and verify in writing you can send it back if it does. Dan Whitacre has sold his rifling machine and is no longer making barrels. He said he has some stock left but I don't know what he is capable of doing now. The only other person I know that can make custom barrels for our muskets is Robert Hoyt. He does not have a web site. If you get on the N-SSA forum, someone can give you his contact information. Whitacre's web site is here: www.whitacresmachineshop.com/

Please see the links directly beneath the video. If Noe has sold out of the molds, you will have to see if you can get enough people interested in another run on their forum. I believe they need 10 people to commit to start a run.