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Nice bike and tutorial . Never rode a Guzzi , had an SF2 for years though . Subbed as you are worth watching , thank you .

Keep up the good work!

I still love those bikes.

Home straight!

such a simple design

My LM III’s didn’t have dog leg levers. They were a bit extra Long and had excellent leverage. They might have had a plastic sleeve over the lever, too. Also, my LM III’s had a very handy enriched lever on the left side of the engine under the carb. Very handy and short cable run. Sadly, I don’t the parts are available anymore. Really love the way you make up ‘bespoke’ spindles, bolts, etc.

Thats a decent effort on the seat mechanism - I've always thought it a bodge by Guzzi.

Hi Mark, what would you recommend to bring the seat back to life, mine is looking a bit grey and tired

Hmmmm.........not sure repeatedly wrenching open carbs with accelerator pumps, sending neat petrol into the carbs AND cylinders, is a good thing.

Ciao Mark, complimenti per il canale...❤️🦅🍻

Excellent. Not quite sure, did you use baking powder and superglue on the cracked plastic parts?

Nice you abandoned the ‘cage racer’ project. I’ve owned multiple LM III’s, as well as a I, and a V. I still own the 1990 LM V, btw. The III is probably my favorite of the 3 variants. Too many details to list here, but the aesthetics were a big reason. I’ve had them completely apart and learned many lessons. Won’t bore you with a list, but I’ll leave you with a huge one that I hope you never have to deal with. Around this era, MG casings were known to occasionally be porous. I learned this the hard way. A persistent oil drip from the weep hole at the bottom of the engine/gearbox joint had me convinced the rear main seal was leaking. After replacing the seal twice and still seeing oil leaking, I was flummoxed. That’s when I learned about the porous case issue. Out came the engine and I pressurized the crankcase with air while the bell housing area was full of water. To my amazement I saw a stream of air bubbles. A bit of epoxy to cover the leak, and it stayed completely dry for years until I sold it to a very happy new owner. Enjoy the bike. Some of those gearboxes can be extremely clunky. Just get used to it. Also, make sure you have the contact patch of the final drive gears adjusted. It’s a trick operation best entrusted to someone who’s already done many of them. I’ve had two final drives self destruct because they weren’t set correctly at the factory. It’s a big fucking deal. A very big fucking deal. But once set, it’ll be good almost indefinitely. Ride safe.

Ooof the trickiest bit!! Had to get the sewing machine out on mine.

Really getting there now. Linked definitely the right way to go. I’ve never had a problem jumping from Japanese bikes to the Guzz.

Nearly there now!!

Mark, I can't thank you enough. I am in the process of doing a restomod on a Mk 2 Le Mans. this video has been my "Bible" for wiring the Domino switches. I don't think it would have been possible for me to adapt them without your clear & concise tutorial. Absolutely top notch stuff! The rest of the series has been very helpful as well. Thanks again.

When the Moto Guzzi engineer decided to fit the brake distributor next to the back wheel he was thinking about how good he looked in his silk shirt, whether his hair was optimally styled and casting a glance across to the secretary. The British winter was nowhere in his mind at all.

The bevel drive should have a molybdenum additive from memory.

Great progress, very interesting build. I love that you kept the Guzzi original.

I had a MK 2 Le Mans . It had a few annoying traits. The throttle cables would randomly puul too far out of the carb and get stuck out on one side only leading to rough running. The points needed setting very often or would run rough, hopefully an electronic setup would fix that. The exhausts were painted black and the paint would burn off and steel rust, chrome would have been nice. The diff would leak oil even after a new seal. The switch gear, indicators etc were very dodgy. The fairing mounts at the headlight area were very flimsy and prone to cracking. The mirrors were ordinary, so I ended up putting handlebar end ones on , they worked ok. It was such a fun bike. Be careful changing the oil filter must be tight mine came off and seized the engine. Enjoy.

An elegant solution to the electrical controls on the handle bars for sure. 👍👍.

Thanks for posting. Could I ask... who did you use for the vapour blasting service please?

Now I can say MOTO GUZZI is better than BMW when it comes to design, durability & practicality. ❤

Do u need to clean after vapour blasting as in bead,etc?

Why ali washers&not copper?

Ah the odds and sods! Always the hardest bits to get all finished off but the bits that make the biggest difference. Good to see things all coming together! Definitely stick with the linked brakes, they're ace!

Your work is always so neat. I keep looking at the home built wiring harness on my project and though it all works, it could be tidier 🤔

Hi Mark, I am very much enjoying your work, great project. Many years ago, before the internet gave so much help and information, I oiled a speedo and ruined the clock. The rotating cable migrated the oil up into the mechanism and the needle fluctuated wildly. I can dimly remember that I should have wiped the top 6 inches dry. Hope this helps you avoid what was for me an expensive mistake. Thanks again for a great series of videos.

Hi Mark,, do you use the original jet setup in the carbs? Some people say that is too lean because of legal regulations, especially with the LM3. BR Jürgen

Perfekt Job!

Superb. great instructive filming/annotations and voice overs. Just phenomenal. Makes me want to have another crack at a restoration.

Great job.

let me try again : i threw my lego switches into the bin and mounted CEV206 (left) and 205 (right) switches; they have cast aluminum bodies and sturdy electric interior; the wiring is mostly identical to the lego switches; tommaselli offers clutch and twistgrip handlebar clamps into which the switches can be mounted; the CEV206 can also be mounted into a separate cradle; if you search the internet in Italy you will find these switches used and NOS at fair prices good luck and keep rolling

Enjoying the build, filming and no-nonsense voice overs Mark. Great stuff!

Top stuff! In Germany we call the switches " Haribo switches" 😊

Enjpyed the video. I have a seriously-modded 1000 Le Mans that started life as a '78 850 (it's a long story, and I was a dealer for Guzzis in the 1980s, which gave me access to some interesting stuff when I went to the factory each year). I had Mikunis for some time and replaced them with Lektrons a couple years ago, which are WORLDS better, especially at altitude. Anyhow, I love Guzzis and will never part with mine. Mind you, I've "personalized" it to the point where nobody sane would want it...suits me just fine. Keep it upright, or leaned WAY over!!

Throttle handle screws on my Lemans 2 I drilled holes in the old screw holes for M4 nylon screw and screw the old screws in that nylon screw !

hi mark, i tried now 2 times to add a comment here about a switchgear alternative somehow it does not show no clue why did you get the comment, somehow ?

I have the same issues with the throttle control/switch gear on my '84 V65. Junk. Good to see your resolution - thanks!

hi mark, thxs for the video you can buy carburetor springs with less tension (medium "less" and less "less) i have fitted the medium ones, they fully suffice to close the slides and you don`t work your arm muscles out and they are more easy to fit i grip the cable with needle nose pliers, rest the spring against the pliers, pull the cable out and thighten the pliers - thsi way i have enough free cable end to wiggle it in place 🙂

Great stuff!! Sun poking out and nearly ready for the off..... Ah familiar switchgear woes, I junked the lot and fitted early GS1000 switchgear which has a similar layout to the Guzzi with the light switch and dip switch on the left hand bar. It's a common issue, they warp in the sun. The threads pull out as well, as there were never proper thread inserts so your throttle goes around and around. Junk the lot....

Interestingly, this machine can generate 90 hp without any real reliability problems. Really, it can. And you'll like it.

Excellent!! reminds me, must go and give the V50 carbs a quick nearly spring flush out!

Very well shot and informative, thank you. Sub'd

Is that a non standard clutch lever? Be interested to know what it is as I'd like that style for my LM2. Enjoyable series - thanks

Love the series! You need more subs.

hi mark, wrt to your clutch adjustement issues (fully extended adjuster at the handle bar) : if you turn the adjustment screw in at the gearbox clutch arm, you will notice, that only a few turns in will do the trick of bringing the handle bar adjuster into its comfort zone i had the same issue and wanted to share with you however the flat part on the end of the clutch arm sucks because the rear swing blocks access and a spanner will not do the trick you will need to fabricate a special tool (flat bar with a notch) or you need a pair of needle nose pliers and a lot of patience good luck mate :-)

Babe, wake up. Another Moto Guzza Lemans 3 restoration update episode just dropped!

Nice work on this MG LeMans 3, I have a MG 850 LeMans 2 white Black version 99% original only rear shocks are not original and there are different carbs mounted on the factory than on this LeMans 3 !

Good job Mark.