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sam washburn
Добавлен 24 окт 2006
Pursuit Last Waltz - Cuttyhunk Island June 1 2023
Pursuit Last Waltz - Cuttyhunk Island June 1 2023
Просмотров: 97
Видео
Repair any Exhaust system pipe leak for under $50
Просмотров 138Год назад
This video shows you a simple way to repair exhaust leaks that will last longer than your car using off the shelf products that cost less than $50.
Adding New Skills to Your Pickleball Game - The Mental Process
Просмотров 244Год назад
To integrate new skills and shots into your Pickleball game, you must do more than master the skill and muscle memory in drilling sessions. You must also develop the Mental Memory that helps you use the new skill during competitive games. This video will teach you how to do this and significantly accelerate your improvement.
Increase Older Engine Gas Mileage 20% with an Induction Cleaning
Просмотров 16 тыс.3 года назад
Induction Cleaning takes an hour and cost about $15 and increased the gas mileage on my 2006 Silverado 6.0L by 20%
Ridge Flying Risk Mitigation for Hanglider Pilots
Просмотров 2813 года назад
This video is meant to help H2 and H3 pilots fly safely as they learn to soar in ridge lift
A visual Scale Model of Rising Thermal Air for Hang Glider and Paraglider Pilots
Просмотров 3163 года назад
Using a fire pit to create a VISUAL thermal that allows you to better understand the shape and characteristics of the thermal air columns we fly in
Car stalls during cold idle. Diagnose and fix stuck idle control valve
Просмотров 10 тыс.3 года назад
If your engine is stalling when you take your foot off the gas when the engine is cold, this is how to diagnose and fix it
Hang Gliding safety guidance for intermediate H2 H3 Pilots
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.4 года назад
An intermediate H3 Hang gliding pilot shares his thoughts on how to enjoy hang gliding safely during this fun but somewhat dangerous phase of your hang gliding journey.
Clean and reuse a flakey oil pressure sensor
Просмотров 16 тыс.4 года назад
If your oil pressure gauge is bouncing around, the problem may be a dirty oil pressure sensor
Avoid Hang Glidings Biggest Mistake
Просмотров 2054 года назад
I launched without hooking in😱 Why, and how to avoid my mistake
Which side has a bad Front wheel bearing Chevy Silverado 2500 HD
Просмотров 4,5 тыс.4 года назад
Which side has a bad Front wheel bearing Chevy Silverado 2500 HD
Replace the power steering cooler in Silverado or Sierra Pickup
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.4 года назад
How to diagnose a leak in the power steering cooler and replace it
Does bypassing a knock sensor risk damaging a GM Vortec V8 engine
Просмотров 45 тыс.4 года назад
Does bypassing a knock sensor risk damaging a GM Vortec V8 engine
Mont Saint Pierre Hang gliding 19510227
Просмотров 4225 лет назад
Mont Saint Pierre Hang gliding 19510227
Ditching into a hay field in my hang glider
Просмотров 1775 лет назад
Ditching into a hay field in my hang glider
Hang gliding around el Piñon in Temescaltepec Mexico with Vuelo Libre
Просмотров 1155 лет назад
Hang gliding around el Piñon in Temescaltepec Mexico with Vuelo Libre
Bypass knock sensor GM vortec v8 p0332 p0327 codes
Просмотров 263 тыс.6 лет назад
Bypass knock sensor GM vortec v8 p0332 p0327 codes
Great landing at lookout mountain. 19520227
Просмотров 536 лет назад
Great landing at lookout mountain. 19520227
It takes about 1.5 to 3 hours to change both knock sensors. They produce a constant value of A/C voltage a the PCM watches for abnormal inputs. Timing is retarded when starting, but V8 engine run 34 to 36 degrees BTDC to fire ignition. Now the octane is 87 the fuel burns fast. This is the anti-knock value. High octane burns slower and rated higher. To get the most torque and HP, they have to ignite way before TDC. Your information is wrong. Pre-detonation breaks piston ring lands, rings and at worst can bent connecting rods. Why would anyone chance this. Yes, it’s harder that an oil & filter change, but if your engine goes, cylinders get deep scratches, metal parts can bend valves, destroy the block and cylinders head. Don’t risk it! Replacement is easy; With Injectors still connected are placed to side, remove intake (Gaskets $15) wipe clean. Use a vacuum and screwdriver to clean around knock sensors, replace both ($32). Use dielectric grease on threads, torque in place, install valley pan, use high temp RED RTV to seal completely. Make connections at cam & oil pressure sensor, install new gaskets on intake, swing fuel rail, lube with silicone grease, install. Done. The time you spent looking on the internet you could have done this twice. 3 times if including effort for a video. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired (7yrs with GM as ACDelco market area service manger. L-1, P-2 certified as well.
Sam, you articulated the instructions clearly and concisely, and even I could understand them. Thank you for your guidance.
Great idea, but what happens when the other sensor goes bad? You'll have to remove the intake manifold at that point anyway. I know its a bitch, but why not just replace both sensors and the harness once and be done with it?
Brilliant. Thanks.
I was thinking that could be done... thanks for the confirmation!
Working just as you said. I checked bank two for resistance,it was 300 ohms. Bank one was 100,000 ohms👍💯 wired them as you instructed. No more PO332 knock sensor code! Thanks a million! This is on my 2005 2500 HD 6.0 ltr. Chevy LS.
@@socalives glad to hear it worked. Good luck
My nox sensors are on the outside of the block under the xaust manifolds ..they are very easy to get to and its takes abt 30 min to change them both ..A Word of caution dont over torque them ,,15inch lbs is very sufficient ,if you over torque them they=y will strip out and come apart.. look at how they are made and you will understand. To do what he is suggesting is very sketchy ,,if the engine cant read the faintest sound of spark knock it can very easily burn a hole in the top of your piston . this is to iffy for me to do it. be assured your engine can be damaged doing this.
Sam nice work. I have already changed mine twice and still get code returning. I understand the jumper between the 2 wires coming from the knock sensors...but what do you do with the long end of the wire severed to make the short jumper? A cut wire creates 2 separate ends, right? Unclear to me, thanks.
@@ole5539 the cut wire that goes to the dead knock sensor doesn’t matter. Just secure to something out of the way so it doesn’t interfere with anything. Good luck
@@SoaringMech Thanks you sir.
Thanks man this really helped my car was smoking and was leaking from the bottom I had my neighborhood machanic look at it he cleaned it up and now it’s not leaking any oil
I generally like this workaround. just have one issue which may or may not matter for a lot of people: contrary to popular belief, these things are on the engine to actually do real tasks to help the ECM make the correct decisions. by taking one knock sensor off-line, some knockingwill not be detected. as we all know knocking has implications. however since most of these vehicles are probably 200k or more miles,saving money on the cost of this repair seems Justified, especially when not passing a smog test renders your vehicle not "registration able."
@@archlab007 I did a lot of research some with a factory trained Mercedes mechanic. The consensus is that the second knock sensor is redundant. There for backup. So bypassing the dead one should not compromise anything.
@@SoaringMech I guess if NASA can keep Voyager going for 47 years with progressively failing systems and lower communication, we can use the "system backup " for my 22-year-old Suburban.
Did you need to clear the code first do tu the bypass ??
No. Clear them after.
My car motor knocks if y put cheap gas but I put good stuff not hear the knocking y don't know if the stupid knock censor or the motor or the gas they put too much shiet in the carso they sell parts
@@Amador-u2p always use the correct octane gas. If you’re pulling a heavy load on a hot day use a higher octane for that.
@@SoaringMech thanks you you ok man
I'm watching and listening to every one's posts and the man's video, and I'm sitting here thinking about it all. If an engine is really not knocking, and it's just the ECM that's not happy with the sensor, because it's a bad sensor, why couldn't one just buy a new sensor , fabricate some kind of a bracket to bolt onto the head or block, or even any where just to pick up a ground somewhere, just to satisfy the ECM and rid the code. And again, if you know your engine , and it is well maintained. And everybody can here an engine pinking/ knocking with your own ears. Since it' only a single wire lead, and just looking for a ground for the base of the sensor to ground , it should work just as well. Someone tell me why this wouldn't work also. Beats tearing the whole engine apart just to satisfy the ECM on an engine that's really not knocking. Thanks Dave It's just mounting them externally instead of internally, should receive the same results, and just leave the two bad ones inside the engine alone.
@@davidkeddy7717 you are correct. Some people do that.
@@SoaringMech Hey! Thanks for your comment, And thanks for agreeing.
Problem with mine is after testing bank 2 sensor it read 99k ohms so it's not bad or getting grounded. Smh I don't know wtf is going on
I'm just gonna mount a new knock sensor to side of motor and solder into the existing bank 2 wire which is the green wire
@@dynamite6507 that will work. Good luck.
What if both sensors are bad?
Then u have to replace at least one of them. Some people mount a new on on the exterior of the motor (front right side has a threaded hole I think). Good luck.
I wonder if putting new sensors on side of block or head and running a new wire harness ( which they recommend anyway)from the sensor back to the ecm connector
@@jeffharvey9811 people have done that. It satisfies the ecm and turns off the check engine light. But I don’t think they detect all the knocks.
What is the name of the product?
Sea foam
Will itbpass inspection on the computer?
@@amadorgonzalez2110 yes, you will pass inspection if you do this and there are no other problems with the truck.
Mine threw abs code. Easy find then 3 hours of slamming it with the sledge.
Thx 4 info
LS intakes are easy to pull off and use rubber/plastic clip on intake gaskets...knock sensors retard the timing when detonation occurs-not wise to bypass them...🐒
Phenomenal video. As a fellow H2 aspiring H3, your comments were ALL on point, well communicated and well received. Not a stretch to think your investment will help improve the HG experience at a minimum, and even save some injuries as well. Great job, much respect.
I agree. Intermediate syndrome is real. I was fortunate to be with a great group that would watch out for each other. With the more experienced pilots recommending of conditions that would be acceptable for my experience. I advanced fairly quickly and was advised to be careful about Intermediate syndrome. I appreciated his concern and have seen accidents resulting from it. I was lucky enough to have escaped unharmed. But now as a wiser ?H4 I'm not as bold as i was. If it doesn't feel right I can just pass for the day. Maybe the free flight addiction is less than it used to be, or I have matured in my flying. PIO is real when stepping up to a dual surface glider. I only experienced it once but it got my attention for 10 seconds that seemed longer. As Page used to say Stay safe, get high and fly far!
Mine still going strong several years later ....
well you have one option or 2 shouldn't really matter it's in the engine valley. Older GM engines the original style small block 5.7 and tbi 5.7 have the Knock sensor are on the side of the block Is passenger side i believe it's been a while. Even before obd2 it's just code 52 I think i can't remember that far back. Most of the time that code was for a wiring problem l the sensor I believe that you are correct sir that 1 in the engine Valley should be able to hear Knox and paings. Then adjust the timing appropriate. Remember there are 8 cylinders so if you have a reduced octane fuel under a high engine load that 1 sensor is going to pick it up for the 4 cylinders it is supposed to sense it for. LS is kind of a oddball design because those sensors are in line front and rear they call them bank 1 bank 2 but they Don't sit on each side of the engine as is bank 1 bank 2. Is so theory as to reason. I've been doing this for a long time that if you have one function you're nonsense or it can hear the knock from the back half or the front half of the block that is designed to hear the rest of the cylinders will be under the same Conditions and load. My highly educated 26 years as a professional technician owning my own shop and used to have a California smart license but lead me to believe that this Is work around for work just fine. I have had issues on trucks where I had the intake manifold off to fix the lower Is valley seal that was leaking. Replace the nonsense just to do do diligent. As I know these are an issue the front one was full of water surprise. So I cleaned it up replaced it and now I have A Knock center code from the front Sensor that comes and goes. Is that Whole whether nonsense or recesses into the block was extremely rusty when I did the original repair now I'm having issues this is the perfect fix for these issues.
12:19 I’m at my wit’s end!!! I’ve replaced both knock sensors, had code for sensor 1, but since I had intake off, I figured might as well do both. Bought set of both sensors and harness, replaced intake gasket only to have problem remain!! Figured a had defective parts so exchanged set of sensors and harness, so I’ve done it twice now. Problem remained!! Figured it must be wiring problem so did continuity tests from ECM plug to connecting plug for each knock sensor and checked out ok. Did resistance check from ECM plug to crank case and I’m getting approx 100K ohms for each knock sensor. Why am I still getting P0327??? Is my ECM bad? I’m contemplating doing this solution but I would prefer to fix it the right way…….
I feel your pain Fernando. Your 327 code means that the bank 1 sensor (or sensor circuit) is no good. You’ve done all the right things. But it’s possible that the well that the sensor screws into is so rusted that it just isn’t getting a good ground. That is the sensor towards the back of the engine where water can easily collect. I would recommend doing the fix shown in my video. Splice the blue wire from the ECM into the Green wire going to the good sensor. I”ve driven my truck 20k miles all over the country since doing this and it runs great. A single knock sensor is all the engine needs. It can hear all the knocks. They put two for redundancy. Let me know how it goes.
I feel your pain too. I have a 2005 LS 5.3 @ 171,000 miles, well maintained. CEL came on, test showed bank 2 low signal. I went to O'Reilly's bought a new Dorman set and harness; within 100 miles CEL relit after replacement. Bought an AC Delco set and harness, everybody says this is the way to go, installed them and within 50 miles CEL returns. I am vacillating between doing it for the 3rd time or taking this gentlemen's advice...at the moment he is winning. I really don't want to do the job again. Oh, by the way, the Dormans I pulled tested 101 OHMs plus at the bench, removed and at the bench. If I do this again and I find an answer, I'll share it.
Both of my wires are blue. One dark
Assume the light one is green and follow the video
Learn how to film in wide screen. Narrow screen is for really dumb posters.
Did this and the code came right back. Total failure.
Recheck the circuits and make sure you route the blue and green wires exactly as in the diagram in the video
This fix has worked for hundreds of people
Bro thanks that actually pretty smart thanks we need more people like you
I did this and the crud that came out the tale pipe 😂 it looked like a old school diesel. It started running much better and more mileage.
The only bad part about this is when the other knock sensor fails and I am sure it will eventually, then you are screwed. This is just a temporary fix.
You’d be surprised. This fixes lasted three years for me, and the other knock sensor is doing fine.
@@SoaringMech That's good considering what a bitch they are to change on that engine.
Inside that sensor electrical connector you can place a small jumper inside snap it back together and reset codes. I did this 2 years ago took 10 min and no more check engine light.
4\16\24 about to try it and I'll report back! Looking at the comments I'll say thank you ahead
And if your towing or pushing hard and get bad fuel expect detonation and probably piston damage. Its actually a 2 hr repair siting on the radiator support straddling the engine.
Thank you for you help I was locking for a wonderful video and I find you ❤
Youre welcome. Good luck
And what happens with the other knock sensor that remains disconnected?
Nothing. They are redundant so the work sensor does the necessary work.
well i know what im doing today lol dont need to bc its a dually 2 door but im not spending $60 plus time either lol
I should try, but i would change out oil soon after that cause that seems like it could break down the oil.
break down the oil?
next is cataclean
*1) Take out the spare tire.* *2) Replace the tailgate with a fabric alternative.* *3) Remove coins, floor mats, tools, and/or other junk not being used.* *4) Replace the hood with a lighter alternative.* *5) Get under there, and knock off all of that excessive rust rotting away the frame/body.* *6) Replace steel wheels to lighter alternative.* *7) Grind a groove just behind the butterfly valve, for fuel/air atomization increase.* You will see some serious gains in MPG if you do all 7 of these, but the biggest single gain will come from #7 if you get the depth & position of the groove _just_ right.
What are you talking about, remove the spare tire?
@@sebestiensoliz8831 Spare tires are dead weight. Removing dead weight increases MPG. *I am talking about increasing efficiency.* #VideoTitle
@@thomasg4324worst advice removing spare tire. I have the high compression 6.0l with my truck bed full of tools and I get 17mpg. Take care of your motor and make sure it’s running right.
@@thebunz7 _"worst advice removing spare tire."_ <~ *You provide NO REASON why this is "the worst advice".* The spare tire is unnecessary weight. Weight saved goes directly towards fuel savings. _"I have the high compression 6.0l with my truck bed full of tools and I get 17mpg."_ <~ Internet resumes are even more spurious than 'real' ones. Putting aside the fact that NO ONE...and I do mean NOT A SINGLE PERSON ON EARTH....actually believes your online truck resume; it does not go to the topic of my thread. *You would have BETTER mileage if you didn't have unnecessary weight hindering your truck.*
@@thomasg4324 Where did you get the idea "removing spare tyre will save gas"?
Thank you
💯💯💯💯💯
Nice!!
I have a knocking noise but no trouble code. Can I eliminate the knock sensors by unplugging the sensors and running the truck? Just to see if the knocking goes away.
Yes, Just try a short test with the knock sensors unplugged to see what happens.
I did this and I am still getting a code for bank 1 . I don’t know how that’s possible
Did u splice the ECM bank 1 wire to the bank two knock sensor wire?
All these people wondering why they blew holes in their piston 20K miles later.
Not one person has posted anything about that
Aye Sam I have both codes p0327 and p0332 I’ve replaced both knock sensors and even a brand new wire harness and it still both codes pop on any suggestions 😞
That should fix it. Did you clear the codes and they came back after installing the new sensors and harness? Check the resistance with an ohm meter between the wires coming from then knock sensors and the engine block. Should read about 100k ohms for both. The old codes take a while to clear on their own I think.
@@SoaringMech absolutely I 1st scanned got codes I replaced both sensors and harness cleared the codes completely and they both popped back on not too sure what could be the problem
@@SoaringMech I’m considering adding higher octane to see if that helps any
If you do not notice engine is knocking...please have your hearing checked.