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It takes about 1.5 to 3 hours to change both knock sensors. They produce a constant value of A/C voltage a the PCM watches for abnormal inputs. Timing is retarded when starting, but V8 engine run 34 to 36 degrees BTDC to fire ignition. Now the octane is 87 the fuel burns fast. This is the anti-knock value. High octane burns slower and rated higher. To get the most torque and HP, they have to ignite way before TDC. Your information is wrong. Pre-detonation breaks piston ring lands, rings and at worst can bent connecting rods. Why would anyone chance this. Yes, it’s harder that an oil & filter change, but if your engine goes, cylinders get deep scratches, metal parts can bend valves, destroy the block and cylinders head. Don’t risk it! Replacement is easy; With Injectors still connected are placed to side, remove intake (Gaskets $15) wipe clean. Use a vacuum and screwdriver to clean around knock sensors, replace both ($32). Use dielectric grease on threads, torque in place, install valley pan, use high temp RED RTV to seal completely. Make connections at cam & oil pressure sensor, install new gaskets on intake, swing fuel rail, lube with silicone grease, install. Done. The time you spent looking on the internet you could have done this twice. 3 times if including effort for a video. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired (7yrs with GM as ACDelco market area service manger. L-1, P-2 certified as well.

Sam, you articulated the instructions clearly and concisely, and even I could understand them. Thank you for your guidance.

Great idea, but what happens when the other sensor goes bad? You'll have to remove the intake manifold at that point anyway. I know its a bitch, but why not just replace both sensors and the harness once and be done with it?

Brilliant. Thanks.

I was thinking that could be done... thanks for the confirmation!

Working just as you said. I checked bank two for resistance,it was 300 ohms. Bank one was 100,000 ohms👍💯 wired them as you instructed. No more PO332 knock sensor code! Thanks a million! This is on my 2005 2500 HD 6.0 ltr. Chevy LS.

My nox sensors are on the outside of the block under the xaust manifolds ..they are very easy to get to and its takes abt 30 min to change them both ..A Word of caution dont over torque them ,,15inch lbs is very sufficient ,if you over torque them they=y will strip out and come apart.. look at how they are made and you will understand. To do what he is suggesting is very sketchy ,,if the engine cant read the faintest sound of spark knock it can very easily burn a hole in the top of your piston . this is to iffy for me to do it. be assured your engine can be damaged doing this.

Sam nice work. I have already changed mine twice and still get code returning. I understand the jumper between the 2 wires coming from the knock sensors...but what do you do with the long end of the wire severed to make the short jumper? A cut wire creates 2 separate ends, right? Unclear to me, thanks.

Thanks man this really helped my car was smoking and was leaking from the bottom I had my neighborhood machanic look at it he cleaned it up and now it’s not leaking any oil

I generally like this workaround. just have one issue which may or may not matter for a lot of people: contrary to popular belief, these things are on the engine to actually do real tasks to help the ECM make the correct decisions. by taking one knock sensor off-line, some knockingwill not be detected. as we all know knocking has implications. however since most of these vehicles are probably 200k or more miles,saving money on the cost of this repair seems Justified, especially when not passing a smog test renders your vehicle not "registration able."

Did you need to clear the code first do tu the bypass ??

My car motor knocks if y put cheap gas but I put good stuff not hear the knocking y don't know if the stupid knock censor or the motor or the gas they put too much shiet in the carso they sell parts

I'm watching and listening to every one's posts and the man's video, and I'm sitting here thinking about it all. If an engine is really not knocking, and it's just the ECM that's not happy with the sensor, because it's a bad sensor, why couldn't one just buy a new sensor , fabricate some kind of a bracket to bolt onto the head or block, or even any where just to pick up a ground somewhere, just to satisfy the ECM and rid the code. And again, if you know your engine , and it is well maintained. And everybody can here an engine pinking/ knocking with your own ears. Since it' only a single wire lead, and just looking for a ground for the base of the sensor to ground , it should work just as well. Someone tell me why this wouldn't work also. Beats tearing the whole engine apart just to satisfy the ECM on an engine that's really not knocking. Thanks Dave It's just mounting them externally instead of internally, should receive the same results, and just leave the two bad ones inside the engine alone.

Problem with mine is after testing bank 2 sensor it read 99k ohms so it's not bad or getting grounded. Smh I don't know wtf is going on

I'm just gonna mount a new knock sensor to side of motor and solder into the existing bank 2 wire which is the green wire

What if both sensors are bad?

I wonder if putting new sensors on side of block or head and running a new wire harness ( which they recommend anyway)from the sensor back to the ecm connector

What is the name of the product?

Will itbpass inspection on the computer?

Mine threw abs code. Easy find then 3 hours of slamming it with the sledge.

Thx 4 info

LS intakes are easy to pull off and use rubber/plastic clip on intake gaskets...knock sensors retard the timing when detonation occurs-not wise to bypass them...🐒

Phenomenal video. As a fellow H2 aspiring H3, your comments were ALL on point, well communicated and well received. Not a stretch to think your investment will help improve the HG experience at a minimum, and even save some injuries as well. Great job, much respect.

I agree. Intermediate syndrome is real. I was fortunate to be with a great group that would watch out for each other. With the more experienced pilots recommending of conditions that would be acceptable for my experience. I advanced fairly quickly and was advised to be careful about Intermediate syndrome. I appreciated his concern and have seen accidents resulting from it. I was lucky enough to have escaped unharmed. But now as a wiser ?H4 I'm not as bold as i was. If it doesn't feel right I can just pass for the day. Maybe the free flight addiction is less than it used to be, or I have matured in my flying. PIO is real when stepping up to a dual surface glider. I only experienced it once but it got my attention for 10 seconds that seemed longer. As Page used to say Stay safe, get high and fly far!

Mine still going strong several years later ....

well you have one option or 2 shouldn't really matter it's in the engine valley. Older GM engines the original style small block 5.7 and tbi 5.7 have the Knock sensor are on the side of the block Is passenger side i believe it's been a while. Even before obd2 it's just code 52 I think i can't remember that far back. Most of the time that code was for a wiring problem l the sensor I believe that you are correct sir that 1 in the engine Valley should be able to hear Knox and paings. Then adjust the timing appropriate. Remember there are 8 cylinders so if you have a reduced octane fuel under a high engine load that 1 sensor is going to pick it up for the 4 cylinders it is supposed to sense it for. LS is kind of a oddball design because those sensors are in line front and rear they call them bank 1 bank 2 but they Don't sit on each side of the engine as is bank 1 bank 2. Is so theory as to reason. I've been doing this for a long time that if you have one function you're nonsense or it can hear the knock from the back half or the front half of the block that is designed to hear the rest of the cylinders will be under the same Conditions and load. My highly educated 26 years as a professional technician owning my own shop and used to have a California smart license but lead me to believe that this Is work around for work just fine. I have had issues on trucks where I had the intake manifold off to fix the lower Is valley seal that was leaking. Replace the nonsense just to do do diligent. As I know these are an issue the front one was full of water surprise. So I cleaned it up replaced it and now I have A Knock center code from the front Sensor that comes and goes. Is that Whole whether nonsense or recesses into the block was extremely rusty when I did the original repair now I'm having issues this is the perfect fix for these issues.

12:19 I’m at my wit’s end!!! I’ve replaced both knock sensors, had code for sensor 1, but since I had intake off, I figured might as well do both. Bought set of both sensors and harness, replaced intake gasket only to have problem remain!! Figured a had defective parts so exchanged set of sensors and harness, so I’ve done it twice now. Problem remained!! Figured it must be wiring problem so did continuity tests from ECM plug to connecting plug for each knock sensor and checked out ok. Did resistance check from ECM plug to crank case and I’m getting approx 100K ohms for each knock sensor. Why am I still getting P0327??? Is my ECM bad? I’m contemplating doing this solution but I would prefer to fix it the right way…….

Both of my wires are blue. One dark

Learn how to film in wide screen. Narrow screen is for really dumb posters.

Did this and the code came right back. Total failure.

Bro thanks that actually pretty smart thanks we need more people like you

I did this and the crud that came out the tale pipe 😂 it looked like a old school diesel. It started running much better and more mileage.

The only bad part about this is when the other knock sensor fails and I am sure it will eventually, then you are screwed. This is just a temporary fix.

Inside that sensor electrical connector you can place a small jumper inside snap it back together and reset codes. I did this 2 years ago took 10 min and no more check engine light.

4\16\24 about to try it and I'll report back! Looking at the comments I'll say thank you ahead

And if your towing or pushing hard and get bad fuel expect detonation and probably piston damage. Its actually a 2 hr repair siting on the radiator support straddling the engine.

Thank you for you help I was locking for a wonderful video and I find you ❤

And what happens with the other knock sensor that remains disconnected?

well i know what im doing today lol dont need to bc its a dually 2 door but im not spending $60 plus time either lol

I should try, but i would change out oil soon after that cause that seems like it could break down the oil.

next is cataclean

*1) Take out the spare tire.* *2) Replace the tailgate with a fabric alternative.* *3) Remove coins, floor mats, tools, and/or other junk not being used.* *4) Replace the hood with a lighter alternative.* *5) Get under there, and knock off all of that excessive rust rotting away the frame/body.* *6) Replace steel wheels to lighter alternative.* *7) Grind a groove just behind the butterfly valve, for fuel/air atomization increase.* You will see some serious gains in MPG if you do all 7 of these, but the biggest single gain will come from #7 if you get the depth & position of the groove _just_ right.

Thank you

💯💯💯💯💯

Nice!!

I have a knocking noise but no trouble code. Can I eliminate the knock sensors by unplugging the sensors and running the truck? Just to see if the knocking goes away.

I did this and I am still getting a code for bank 1 . I don’t know how that’s possible

All these people wondering why they blew holes in their piston 20K miles later.

Aye Sam I have both codes p0327 and p0332 I’ve replaced both knock sensors and even a brand new wire harness and it still both codes pop on any suggestions 😞

If you do not notice engine is knocking...please have your hearing checked.