Видео

Der Sattel is natürlich unten :D

Looks like linear rails

I bought them ?

Is fürn normalen Ender, ja, das V6 is i.o brauchst halt ne 24v 50w cartridge und ich schmiere den ganzen Block mit hitzebeständigem Silikon zur Isolierung ein, aber grundsätzlich ist das voellig ausreichend bin 0.2 Layerhöhe.

Not really, i choose the ender as a frame because its quite sturdy.

Not really, i switched over to a 15/50 blower since then.

No, this tut isnt really necessary anymore, prusa slicer f.e. offers great sla supports.

Set acceleration to 4k, but aside from that bowden is always slower due to the time the retracts take.

No i didnt, my gantry is much lighter than the standard gantry.

That is the stock board ( as the title says ) Check my latest video on the ender, theres a link to the mod in the description.

lenne 0815 thanks, I will check it. The speed is amazing in your printer and the silent.

Could you send me to my email the .stl to start to print the parts ? pablobr90@gmail.com thanks

No and im unsure if im gonna release the needed files for it, there are many other linear rail mods for the ender 5 available, some of them might offer similar performance.

@@lenne-0815 i want to do this on an Ender 5 Plus

@@notabackupaccount7664 I would just be happy for a Klipper Config for a Creality V2.2 silent board...

I just realized there isnt a pic of the printer, ill add some more in the description ! ( basically i just replaced the roller things with linear rails and added a bmg + pancake )

Lets see once i have the skr mini in there ;)

Klipper isn't "a firmware", to explain it easy, Klipper makes it possible to let other devices like a raspberry pi cpu's do the work, so instead of the 8 bit chip on the 3d printer, the quad core on the pi does the work instead and then just passes it though, using klipper, it make the motors move etc. it's like the onboard chip just becoming a passthough while the pi does all the work now. and that happens by software, so yes. it can indeed speed up the prints without losing quality, i have better looking prints with 130mm now, then i had when i ran my ender 3 at stock 60 before klipper.

and with a attitude like that, you don't even deserve klipper. you just keep "thinking" which is actually not thinking, but just sheer assuming. wrong assumptions too.

@@Gagliano17 interesting. Maybe i Will try it, but what about calibration? It can be pain in the ass with delta printer.Right now most of issues in my prints is because of hardware, not software, so i'am not shure klipper can help.

Stricken174 klipper has its own config file, i got my 3d printer since 1 month, so if i got it running anyone should be able with the right effort, got it running at 150mm so far (havent tested higher) with a bltouch that i also got running on klipper, i followed a yt guide, calibration was a breeze, i even got a flipped stepper because of dampers and even that was just a matter of putting a ! Before the x axis stepper pin, you can config the whole klipper file directly from octoprint using the klipper plugin, even zoffset and the bltouch too. Its far superior to anything ive seen online, im using the octoclient phone app, with octoprint at home, using a picam + lens on the pi 3b on a 2019 ender 3. The printer wont work without duet or octoprint if you’re using klipper, klipper basicly makes the mobo of the printer just a receiver without a firmware beside in co-op with duet or octo. Duet seems good to but i havent looked in to it yet, as octo works flawless now. I also contacted the dude who develops the octoclient mobile app about implementing klipper + more in to the mobile app ( for firmware reboots)

@@Stricken174 Did you try Klipper yet? As I understand it, Klipper really shines in delta printers. I have heard of some deltas running at 2.5m/s (METERS per second!) with Klipper. Delta printers require more complex math than cartesian printers, so 8-bit Atmega boards can be a bottleneck.

Just file off some of the aluminium (were it would hit the motor). But you need to consider, that the motor will still be pressed against the motor support and transferring noise through that (maybe print a new support pice a little smaller to put some rubber in between the motor and the support)

If your still having problems try thick rubber mat

What kind of extruder are you using ? the titan in the video is 3x1 undergeared and has no problem keeping up, i raised the tem about 15c to print that fast. Keep in mind that its only 0.1 layer height.

I lost the files as im not using Netfabb anymore, there are better free alternatives out now, i think the wanhao one is pretty good aswell.

its a printer close to an am8. Klipper goes as fast as you are able to set it to while still retaining acceptable quality. Bowden systems typically have huge drawbacks compared to direct drives, especially on an i3 stype printer they make no sense at all. Heres some info regarding the printer: www.lennesblog.de/category/anatomy-of-a-high-speed-i3-clone/

@@lenne-0815 thanks. I just noticed that I have been on your blog before. So from what I can read you're not a big fan of bowden exruders and rather recommend using direct drive extruders. Are you still using the bowden extruder? Can you reach comparable speeds with the direct drive extruder? And what about your print quality on these speeds? Can you use it on a regular basis with these speeds? And what bearings did you use on your x nd y axis? Your blog says you use printed ones. When I tried to speed up the process with M220 I couldnt reach such high speeds. It even seemed like I had the same speeds with bowden / direct drive. Did I miss some limitations I set in the config files of klipper maybe?

@@MrFleischFloete I only ever used a bowden system in my very first printer, that went in the bin fast ;) Youll need linear advance to keep the quality up at higher speeds and that pretty much only works with direct drive extruders. Youll need to set accelerations in the klipper config, just use octoklipper for that, makes it really easy. I Print around 100mms 3k accels pretty much for high quality, inter layer adhesion is a much bigger problem than getting the machine to 250mms ;) im still using the original bearings from the a8, i just exchanged the bearing holders to printed ones to reduce the weight, they are slowly getting loose though, in the next iteration ill use cast bronze gliders. ATM im using this carriage: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3150944

@@lenne-0815 thanks, I'll try that

Remember even though you wont: ittl only take you 30s of reflashing marlin and having everything back the old way.

i think something around 2.5k, i dont remember exactly. later on when i started tuning i hit 4k: ruclips.net/video/clixTeZ3fJA/видео.html I stopped at that point though because other issues ( effectively cooling extruded filament etc became a much bigger issue and i didnt want to fiddle to much with it ;) )

Its insane!!!! But realy cool))))) I tried only 2K on my Ender-3, but with no modifications)))))

SInce then a lot has changed: ruclips.net/video/clixTeZ3fJA/видео.html theres not much left of the original anet printer.

It depends what you are looking at, visually the parts are okayish at 250, but inter layer adhesion suffers due to the rapid deposit of thin layers. For a typical e3d v6 the maximum usable speed to get great quality with klipper is 100mms imo.

There is always the J-Head HiFlow hotends if you want to explore speed :)@@lenne-0815

@@hotends Problem isnt really extrusion speed, its still cooling. Im working on a new, even more boring video right now for a 20 minute benchy and the only limitation im having is cooling again.

Build a klipper railcore and use salvage from the a8, to get the a8 to the stage mine is its nearly a complete replacement anyway

Can you make a overview video on all the bits and pieces in this machine and the custom stuff you have done its truly a inspiration. Let me see what i think this printer has ramps + tmc2100 AM8 frame I would imagine that's a 30amp PSU not the stock one Some kind of boost converter for the 30v (lots of questions how this even works it seems below.) I still cant believe i am seeing a glass bed move that fast with the weight. E3D Titan + v6 (or clone). I would have thought u would need a volcano 0.4mm to push that much filament out maybe even a 50w heater cartridge. I also would have thought a bowden at this speed but that's not true at all lol. Raspberry Pi 3b Replace the stock belts (original ones are so bad) Igus bearings + 3d print blocks it seems so quite defiantly not LM8UU misc small stuff like idler pulleys, 3950 thermistors, silicone wires, mosfet?, 3d printed mounts and stuff for all of this.

i started going in depth with the build here www.lennesblog.de/category/anatomy-of-a-high-speed-i3-clone/ never really gotten around finalizing it though, your questions regarding the bed are answered though !

Cant find this Pertinax stuff as far as i can tell it looks like the stuff printed circuit boards are made out of and its really expensive like $30 for a sheet that would fit a printer. I was once looking at stuff similar to this called garolite because people also found it to work decently but its also in around the same price range.

garolite is phenolic resin aswell, you can also use epoxy bound laminates aswell ( glassfibre etc )

I dont use Z Probes at all, try github.

Yeah, that's what's holding me back too.

@@DancesWithRobots I got mesh bed leveling now up and running with klipper, wasnt that complicated, where are your issues ?

@@lenne-0815 What are the sources of information you use to assist with the config (websites/blogs etc)? I'm struggling to find info on specific config such as mesh levelling and also the compatibility with the LCD modules... ...or do you just use trial and error :-)

@@havenview I'll find pretty much all info needed on GitHub in the config/example.cfg and config/example extras.cfg

At that stage its still the original anet fan which i oiled, short time later it died and i switched to sunon fans.

Hey Ana, just check the video description !

lenne 0815 oh, I'm sorry I haven't seen it before! Thank you!

You don't need that for to work smooth and print decently. Please try to get it setuped right before upgrading, because upgrades on a printer that is badly assembled or has bad slicers settings are useless. Check that your frame is square, that your belts are tight, that your screws are tight, then check the slicer. I know this comment is old, but I hope this helps, if you want help you can ask me. My printer prints as well as my school's UM2 extended + (2000$ printer) and is nearly stock so I'd say I know how to set them up.

No, they enable the use of only a single motor per axis.