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Hey, If you centred the wall top to bottom, Draw a mid line and started with the point of the tile on the line.. If my memory serves me right, that should work out centre. I'd recommend just laying some out to double check that though. Hope that helps

@@thebespokebloke i will try that & I will just dry lay & mark on wall …thanks for you’re time boss🙌

It'll be so much easier to use! Regards a 120 cutter..Then if the customer is going to buy it then absolutely! If you had a 900 you'd probably be able to survive without it though...in most of my Bathrooms with 120's I don't end up with many full 120 length cuts (and you can mulipulate the set out in your favour) The 90 cutter can cut up to 96cm's, So it gives you that flexibility, and the cutter can take the 120 tile without it being swamped. If a 60 is the biggest you've got, It may be a bit over powering for it just cutting length ways. (Although it would cut fine, it'll just be a bit of a pain with the overwhelming tile size) So long story short, ha.. If 60cm is your biggest cutter, and you think you'll have a lot of lengthways full tiles in your bathroom.. Get the 120 cutter. Hope that makes sense mate

Hey, Flexible Tile Adhesive knocked up a bit stiffer

@@thebespokebloke that’s great thanks for getting back to me and your videos are really good by far the best I’ve seen I’m just starting out tiling and they are really helpful

@@JamieWilliams-hg6ib You're welcome, and thanks for the feedback mate!

Thanks!

Haha yes, It's normally about spot on! Also my roll of tape only has a certain life span until it's to small 😜

Hey mate, Thanks! Yeah totally personal preference and what works really, I do either or.. The only thing I would say Is with a 45 degree on the top trims, you can sometimes get a nasty sharp point with metal trim, Which you don't want to sand down to much (To not take the coating off the trim)

@@thebespokebloke cheers for the reply, starting off my tiling journey so just used to what I've been shown ,cutting at 45, but I have seen others do what you have done and think I will give it a go next time , only done a couple of splashbacks but the pointy bit of trim has got me both times 😂

@@johnrush6581 Nice, Yep give it a try mate and see how it works.

Love that, thanks mate and good luck! Any questions don't hesitate to ask

Hey thanks for the kind words, Nice to speak to a fellow tiler! I actually use cheap children's felt tips, ha! I use them for that reason, and they don't stain (as they are washable) 90% of tiles. (Be crateful with unsealed porcelain though). But yeah they are great, as you get a fine mark and at very low cost I burn through them.

@@thebespokebloke That's amazing..Thank you for the tip! I love finding simple tools that save time and make the process easier.

Hey, Well they are both great products, and it is situational. So the Backerboard commonly used these days is made of foam on the inside, It's different to the old skool cement backerboard. With that, You get good thermal and waterproof properties. Also you can put it straight onto floorboards. You can also self level on top of it, where as with Ditra matt you need to do all the preparation before hand. So they are things to take into account. The benefit of Ditra is it's only 3mm so if you have height constraints, it's really good for making sure your floor is going to last while keeping it still as low in height as possible. Generally if I'm tiling on a concrete subbase, or ply wood subbase I would use Ditra. When there is floorboards or underfloor heating under the tiles I'd use backerboard (As you would lay backerboard, then put the wires down, then self level it) Hope that helps mate.

@@thebespokebloke thanks for taking the time to reply and in such detail. Very helpful. About to tackle our bathroom in a 10 year old typical new build type house. There is definitely movement in the floor so trying to work out the best approach.

@@welsht0m You're welcome, That's what I'm here for. If it's a Uk new build (May apply elsewhere as well), It's probably a green p5 chipboard they have used for the substrate. It is quite common for them to drop and have a bit of bounce in them. If you can afford the height I'd put a 10mm backerboard on it, To strengthen it up a bit as well. Ditra would be fine, But my choice would be backerboard. If you do use Ditra on chipboard, it just has to be stuck down with something like Ardex AF200 Plus. As normal tile adhesive is not good for chipboard. Hope some of that helps!

Thanks mate!

Yeah, They look really cool!

Hey thanks! You don't need any expansion joints on a floor that size though, That is what the joints in the tiles are for lol. The Silicon finish is done afterwards with a matching color silicon bead.

There's various ways you can do it, It's just Job and Tile depending. You add adhesive to the trim as well as the adhesive that is already on the wall.. With adhesives these days that trim isn't going anywhere!

👋

Awesome, You won't be disappointed! The Rubi TCR Diamond discs (red one's) Are really good, and pretty long lasting. I use them or atm I'm just trying out the Bihui B-Speedy Disc (Blue) Which seems pretty much on par with the Rubi.

Haha nice, Sounds like you are a Makita man through and through! I always thought they were smooth, Just always felt a bit chunky to me though.. Ever tried the slimline Bosch?

@@thebespokebloke I've always wanted to try the slimline style. Bosch and Hitachi both make a good one I hear.

Good man 🙌

Hey, Using Thin Set to fix backerboard is just optional and situational.. Backerboard can be fixed with either or, or with both depending on your situation and requirement . But for timber floors, As long as you are fixing at least every 300mm that's absolutely fine. Hope that helps

Thanks, Patterned Hexagon Tiles do add a lovely design finish!

Again mate! Smashed it! Looks banging

Thanks mate 👌

Thanks, Glad you liked it!

Hey, No the adhesive direction has no relevance to that, If you do get minimal water behind, it should evaporate back out, As the tile grout is breathable and that's what it's designed to do. But if you have water concerns, I'd recommend waterproofing the walls first, if your tiles are in a constant wet area so you're covered. Hope that helps

Hey, Depending on your adhesive, It's not normally essential if it's dust free. But always read the individual instructions of your specific adhesive. There's no harm to be safe though, You can also rub over with a damp sponge to take of any dust and help adhesion of the adhesive not curing to fast. Hope that helps

Hey, Imo it looks best to keep trim as small as you possibly can.. Tile suppliers would normally recommend a 10mm trim for an 8mm tile to allow a bit of wiggle room with adhesive etc. But if you use wedges, 9 times out of 10 you can manilipulate a smaller trim to fit the tile. But it is all tile dependent really. But if you want to be safe just go with a mil or two bigger than your tile. Adhesive doesn't really effect the trim that much. Hope that helps

ruclips.net/video/FlbjvHoxa40/видео.htmlsi=GgIGMwOY-5IeiJqW As an example, in this subway video I'm using 8mm trim on an 8mm tile, and even though it may be a mil short, once it's grouted, it'll look better than having thick trim imo

Sigma Series 3 Max (90cm)

Thanks, It's a lovely design!

Yes, Backerboard is a waterproof substrate

I don’t think you’re supposed to trowel both the wall and the tile. Back butter one and trowel the other. And the trowel lines are not straight, so they can’t collapse correctly.

@@zurkram With Large Format Tiles, you won't get a good enough connection with just flat back edging., As large tiles are very concaved,. So getting coverage is more important than the "collapsing spill" When using extremely large tiles. Getting a good bond is key!

Thanks Mate, No pain no gain!

Great! Thanks Kev, Kind words!

Nice, Yeah I mean I used to swear by Rubi cutters, and then you use something like the Sigma, which ticks all the boxes.. and that's it.. Sounds like we've both had similar cutter journeys!

@@thebespokebloke we certainly have my friend as you say there is no comparison better Rubi and Sigma for me. Breaking bar is far far stronger. 🤓👍

Thanks! 10mm Should be perfect, I'd always try and keep my trim as small as I can get away with, Just so it doesn't dominate the tile and spoil the look. But yeah 10mm by the time some adhesive is added should be perfect!

@@thebespokebloke awesome, thanks!

It's an absolute game changer, Glad to be of service!

Hey, It depends on how you cut the tile a bit and your spacing, But I'd recommend if you are finishing a full tile to the floor, Leave a bit of play (2-4mm) as it will be covered by your flooring or silicon if on a shower or bath. Then you can get 2 halves out of 1 piece of tile. If you are half tiled you may have to cut the top half slightly smaller to allow for spacing, But if you have tile trim, that should allow you to be able to fit a direct half in. (hope that kind of makes sense) regards tile cutters.. Yes, there are a lot of rubbish one's out there, As usual price normally determines quality. I have a video here on the cutters I use ruclips.net/video/_pAtrJliCr0/видео.htmlsi=Z8Cz9u4B8-7VGcPs . What cutter do you have?

​@thebespokebloke Thanks!! Next question - what's the best way to make awkward cuts around plug socket boxes etc?

@@taffyapple9206 ruclips.net/video/m7geX9qmE7w/видео.html Check this out here, It's the same principles. Also This Video on taking out squares, ruclips.net/video/6mmJ_gaV1tA/видео.htmlsi=Mqt3eOwlTcbrXRIl . They should point you in the right direction.

Awesome, Glad to hear! Helping people is the best satisfaction, Best of luck with it! Any questions don't hesitate to ask!

Thanks mate!

I think it was about 250 ish

@@thebespokebloke where abouts are you from?

@@87danimal87 South UK mate

@@thebespokebloke would that be in Euros?

@@87danimal87 Probably around the same mate, I don't think there is to much in it between the pound and euro atm

Hey mate thanks! Wedges just help if you need to get the tile to where you need it, Like I would normally cut allowing 2mm play (wiggle room), and then use wedges to get to my line. But yes of course, cut to the floor. On my job there, I lowered the floor after I cut the tiles hence the bigger gap than usual. And Yeah I would generally put spread lines every few rows, This is so you can check them with a level every so often without it being covered in adhesive. Also it gives you a good point to stop for a breather. If you check my subway tile video, you'll see I work down from a spread line down (as they are light tiles) Hope that helps mate!

@@thebespokebloke ok I see, so you’d leave the cut 2mm short at the bottom of the tile to allow space for a wedge underneath that allows you more flexibility to push the tile up to the line? Is there a size limit where you tile down from the line rather than up from the floor?

@@karl4902 Basically mate, You'll also never cut a tile to the exact size it needs to be. Even if you do, A bump in the shower tray/floor will throw you off your line.so it's best to give yourself a few mill of play. Even half a mill, will throw your tiles out over a distance, So the most important thing is to just make sure your first line is dead Level. Regards working up or down, It's just purley down to weight of the tile.. Large heavy tiles I'd work up, Ceramic tiles which have a lot of grip I'd tend to work down first.

@@thebespokebloke thanks for the advice, looking forward to more videos 👍

Haha thanks mate, I'm not so clean when I use black grout though :) Yeah nice, It is a more modern way of doing it, When you can. Generally a tiles thickness plus like 5-8mm for adhesive (as it will compact down) Is fine. I'm just filming some footage atm talking about trim and recess's/niche's. So should be a bit more information in there when it's done. It's Alec btw, I'm down South

Awesome, Glad you're liking them mate! It's always good to get feedback as I'm just a Tiler and a bit new to this RUclips stuff! At the start of the video, That's most of the hand tools I use (I'll add the brands to the description) I use a Rubi Mixer, Dewalt laser, and Bosch slim line grinder (These are the best for intricate work like tiling) Level Clips are GLS Spin By Genesis, Diamond Hole cutters are made by Bosch, Angle grinder blade is a Red Rubi Porcelain, or a Blue Bihui in this video. With the New Sigma series being out, there maybe some good deals to be had on series 3 cutters! For sockets and squares it depends a bit on the tile, But generally from the back, As you can run the blade past your marks to a certain degree to get the piece out. For like a toilet flush plate, I'd probably go front so I can control the chipping, then flip the tile and finish on the back to remove the piece.

Thanks, Glad you liked it!

Hey, The installers formed the walls here. Although you may see me doing some backer board installing on the floor in a later video..

@@thebespokebloke still great explanations on your setting out thanks

Great, Glad it helped! I'll get get another similar vid up on the Tiling process soon!

Hey, Yep 2 things really.. Quality adhesive will even keep heavy porcelain upright to a certain degree (Check "Bal Flex One" and "Kerakoll" products) Secondly, When you have a ceramic tile (brown biscuit on back) it has so much suction that whatever adhesive you use, it should stay in place after a wiggle. Hope that helps!

Thanks!, Herringbone is a harder difficulty rating for sure, But If you just make sure your start tiles are level and in the right place.. From there, everything comes of off that, So if you take it slow (maybe do a practice area first) you should be fine. Or just go for herringbone feature wall, and the rest in more generic tiles is always a good look!

Thanks, Glad it was helpful! I'd say the 3B4M - 62cm which is in the video is a perfect all rounder. Perfect for small and medium size tiles, and not to big to carry around. You should be able to get the 3 series at a good price, as stocks are slowly being replaced with the 4 series. And I believe the 3 series is the still the best!

Amazon sell plenty of different kinds, I recommend the 200 grit (red one) As a perfect all rounder!

See the light..😂