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Thanks 👍. I like it so far.

Thanks! This ended up being the fastest pass as I didn't find time to get back to the track after dialing in the clutch tamer on the street (could 60' on the street tires as good as it did bogging on the hoosies) and dialing in a 100-150 shot. Oh well. Car was mostly an all around street car, still got 30+ mpg on the highway, could idle through a parking lot in gear without bucking, and was a blast on back curvy roads.

@@completetuningsolutions be careful with those bigger shot's you may want to think about what fuel you use after 100 shot I have a cam and I plan on going nitrous and I'll run a standalone for a bigger shot just my 2¢

Absolutely. I was running nitrous outlets standalone controller and then HP tuners for timing retard on top of standard tune.

@@completetuningsolutions that's good you also will get more power that way is your goal mph or time

@@benjamingutierrez4260 Absolutely. The end game is as much power as possible, safely, without leaving bits on the track.

Ha love it! I'm dropping in Wiseco pistons and Manley rods.

Not that I'm aware of. You could potentially use an app like track addicts to match up and overlay.

The key is to dial in enough knee pressure to have the rears contribute without locking up. Weight transfer plays a much bigger role than drivetrain configuration.

@@completetuningsolutions you wont lock up if its in gear though? Like almost imposible?

​@@BEYTEK no it'll lock them if I hit the brakes hard and have too much power to the rear.

They came with the Megasquirt kit. Here is the full kit from them: www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3pro-plug-play-26-pin-options-port-connector-package/

Glad to help!

It wasn't too bad. Take your time and measure a lot, cut slowly.

@@completetuningsolutions I did, turned out great!

Awesome! ​@@ninokri

Appreciate the input!

Small world! Makes sense for the height if you are dropping the trans out the bottom. I'll keep that in mind and "key" some extensions for that day. Who am I kidding, hopefully I can have quick jacks or a 4 post by then. I do plan on pulling the motor later this year and the trans will go out with it out the top.

@@completetuningsolutionsIf you can afford quick jacks or a 4-post, that's ideal. So many people have told me to pull the motor and trans together. And if you have the room, sure. I have limited ceiling height and limited garage length. I had no problem pulling the trans out the bottom. And when I rebuild the engine in the near future, I'll be dropping the trans and pulling just the engine out the top. Hope yours goes well.

Hope so! Let me know if you want any details or other tips/tricks as I film this car build.

Thanks! I hope it performs as good as it looks.

I was just following their instructions. Haven't had to disassemble yet, but don't think it'll be an issue. I usually shoot for close to max setting or a smidge under, never over when using loctite. Aware it does give me a mechanical advantage and the possibility to overshoot.

Yeah the finals was just as impressive. The track prep was ON POINT this weekend.

My favorite was the consistency over the weekend. It wasn't a glory run, kill mode all weekend every hit.

Yeah that Supra is no slouch.

Sorry I'm not sure if they do, didn't see this comment. Hope it works out for you.

Nope. It's a bolt in affair

Just bolt in and go. Dorman's website has additional details.

Thanks for commenting, sorry on the delayed response. While I don't forsee it being an issue I have a contingency plan. I can easily move the filter inside the engine bay in a rain situation by clamping it on the end of the pipe that terminates right before the turn down into the fender area (why I made a junction there as well on the downturn) and capping the hole. I'll just be sure to pack those things in my spares "in case of rain". I do run the factory undertray so I'd only be concerned in a downpour situation. Great question!

I'm not sure, sorry. Don't see why not

Glad to pay it forward on the Internet

Yeah or even jb weld works too. Idea is the spring + vehicle weight holds it down in place.

Yeah! I got tired of getting stabbed and I lost gloves in the garage when they are camo.

You're welcome. Let me know if you have questions.

Glad to be of service.

Did this fix it for you?

the older manuals for the ds had it speced that way. I saw a photo of it. In think ram has rationalised it now and specifng the special oil for the 44 case in both. I am going to run just ATF 4 plus in mine.

I had found a paper awhile ago. Could have been on bobistheoilguy

same for me but I hear you can't use atf 4. I called the dealer and they said def don't use it. has to be the expensive shit I guess

There was a change for 2016+ rams. Many of them got the 44-44 Borg Warner transfer Case and that requires the special sauce. The older 44-45 tcases allow atf4+. There are some 2012-2014 1500 ram owners manuals floating around showing the call for atf4+.

@@codyfisher3706 Really? My dealer said they were using ATF until they could get more MOPAR stuff in. The guy I spoke to said it should be fine. Too late for me I guess if your dealer is right, I went ahead and used the ATF+4. I may change it out whenever I can get my hands on the recommended stuff.

Dropping the clutch wouldn't work in this scenario as it had to much clamping pressure. Thus trying to get a controlled slip.

Moog

Fastbird line lock. He posted on the c5 forums

I'd check doman's website. Not sure they make tears, sorry.

Yeah for sure.

Hope it helped!

Glad it was helpful!

Happy to help!

Rust can really eat these up

Awesome!

This would have been a LS2 throttle body with adapter wiring and a Mamo ported FAST 102.

Alpha OBD is the program you are looking for. Many bluetooth OBD2 scanners should work, the Alpha OBD software gives some recommendations. Works well for any updates needed. www.alfaobd.com/

Many say 600+ it is recommended. The manufacturer recommends it at 350hp actually as the individual caps can shift. This motor made 900 without it however, so your results may vary.

@@completetuningsolutions Thanks for the reply, I figured it'd be around there. I was making 550whp last year and just swapped to a 6766 so I'll have the potential to hit around a thousand. Guess I'll keep it turned down until I have time to pull the motor and toss the girdle in.

@@schafer240 before they were a product we were making 700+. The girdles drastically reduce your chance of main issues.

@@completetuningsolutions I could see that, it's probably even a better idea for me as I'm running a 2.4 Galant 6 bolt motor which has all individual caps. I'm a fan of kiggly, I have their springs/hla and trigger kit. Not cheap but the quality is outstanding Only thing holding me back from just tossing this in is a line hone. I wouldn't want to risk it with the amount of money I've tossed at this motor

@@schafer240 unfortunately you'll want to do that (line hone). This is especially true if you aren't running ARP mains.

It might. My worry would be that you would trap in moisture. I just did a heavy coat of Rustoleum.

Thanks for commenting! The 7 bolt 4g63 is a good engine and the crank walk issue has somewhat been blown out of proportion. The key for any engine build is to set the thrust bearing, main bearing, and rod bearings correctly. This requires proper machining and assembly techniques. I went with a 6 bolt motor for this build as it was what was available to me locally at a reasonable cost (this is a 1/2 filled and o-ringed shortblock for drag racing application). In a 2g DSM I would absolutely go with a 4g63T 7 bolt. Much easier to install (as you don't have to do the 6 bolt in a 7 bolt modifications) and at this point in the game the aftermarket has more support versus the 6 bolt (as you can use 4g EVO internal parts most of the time). 95-96 motors are fine. Tips to avoiding crankwalk include: Not to heavy of a clutch. Proper assembly techniques and torque values.

Thanks! It was a really fun car to campaign. Please consider subscribing to get updates on my Stealth project (automatic) where I'll be targeting deep single digit passes.

It should work as a momentary interruption (or connection) as long as the amperage going through the switch is minimal.