Видео

Spot paste blue www.wemag.de/en/item/spot-paste-3000331.0080

@@migru59 thank you

Thank you very much 😀

Ci sono piani qui: woodmotion-plan.com/

@@migru59 grazie

Unfortunately not. It's a gift for my granddaughter. Maybe the next 😀

Yes, everyone who sees the marble machine is fascinated by the arms. Me too 😊

Hello Carlos, thank you for the feedback! I am glad that your work was successful 👍👍👍 Michael

Thank you! I made the gears (and almost all other parts) with my CNC router 😊

Moin, ja, das siehst du richtig. Ich habe in der Video-Beschreibung noch das verwendete Material zugefügt

Hello Pieter, thank you for your feedback 👍 I am using these grinding heads: www.ebay.de/itm/403394057431?hash=item5dec28d4d7:g:0YoAAOSwcrph1Wev www.ebay.de/itm/164922177142?hash=item266620b676:g:T9kAAOSwRXRgpdvP www.ebay.de/itm/223647716296?epid=1004237806&hash=item34127153c8:g:tqMAAOSwMyJdbNFz These are for steel and hardened steel Very importent: for preparing the grinding head you need a sharpening stone: www.ebay.de/itm/265677987546?epid=1204239912&hash=item3ddba45eda:g:wOQAAOSwhx9ic5oI It is for sharpening and cleaning the grinding head and gives him a perfect concentricity. If you use it very softly, the grinding head will be perfect for a smooth surface. For a smooth finish also importent: don't press to hard on the surface when grinding.

Thank you for your answer 👍 I used 8mm acrylic, but not double.

Hi Mike, thank you very much for your contribution. I was also a toolmaker at a car manufacturer (now retired). My first contact with this type of surface machining was in the 70s during my toolmaker training. Since then it has been part of my daily work. I watched some of your videos: great work! I wish you a lot of fun with the restoration of the atlas 618 lathe. Greetings from Germany, Michael

Yes, there is when you use large, strongly vibrating machines like a chainsaw for a long period of time

Du brauchst Schneidedraht für Styropor (0,3 - 0,6mm dick) und ein regelbares Netzteil (12-24V / 0-5A). Schau mal bei rc-letmathe.de rein, dort ist gut beschrieben, was du brauchst.

@@migru59 Danke. Die Elektronik wollte ich sowieso bei Letmathe nehmen als Satz - spart Zeit und Versandkosten ;). Das bei ihm ist vermutlich NiCr Draht? Mit wieviel Amper schneidest Du so große Blöcke? Ich habe Infos gefunden über NiCr, Konstantan und Stahldraht. Was eignet sich am besten?

@@aleks1970nbg Ich habe meine Maschine schon lange nicht mehr. Mein Draht damals war ein Konstantan-Draht, der hat gut funktioniert. Mit dem Strom bzw. der Spannung musst du experimentieren. Je dicker/länger der Draht, umso höher musst du mit der Spannung gehen. Ist die Spannung zu niedrig, wird der Draht nicht heiß genug und schneidet nicht. Ist die Spannung zu hoch, schmilzt zu viel Styropor. Musst etwas experimentieren, wirst aber schnell zu einem guten Ergebnis kommen 😉

Finally a useful response. Thanks.

@@janlolwitz951 👍

This technique is used when machining sliding surfaces in tools and dies and works very well. The technology has to be adapted a little to the sliding surfaces. This technique has been around for more than 50 years and has largely replaced scraping because it is faster and still very accurate. In this way I have precisely machined all sliding surfaces of my milling machine and lathe. They work very, very well and precisely 😉 Did you try

Thank you for your answer, Kevin. I'm also a toolmaker in auto industry and I also use larger grinding stones with 6mm shank for larg work pieces. Greets Michael

I used these grinding stones: www.bosch-diy.com/za/en/p/grinding-stone-set-2762874 You can also use white, gray or brown grinding stones. For sharpening the grinding stones you need a Slider / Grinding Stone (Grain 30 up to 120). For sharpening the grinding stones see my other video: ruclips.net/video/bY7Nctvbpn0/видео.html

That pleases me very much. Thank you very much for the feedback

Yes, it is made of steel. If necessary, you can use anything that is plane and smooth

What parameters do you want to know?

Yes, if you have to remove a lot of material, that's a good method. It's the same principle :)

@@migru59 The example I saw was flattening a sway-backed anvil... Many amateurs don't have a machine tool that'd do that, but print-cut-repeat does it easily

What do you mean with .125 thousends of an inch? Do you mean .125 inch or .00125 inch? Is the difference of the high .125 inch and the workpiece is large, then the dremel will be overloaded quickly. For your information: I am a toolmaker and in our company we use this grinder: www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/ggs-28-lce-0601221100 If a lot of material needs to be grindet, we use this: www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/ggs-8-sh-0601214300 Makita also has good die grinder. For small workpieces as in my video you can use the dremel. The grindstone is not that important at first. With some grindstones you can remove more material, with other grindstones you can grind finer. It is important that you sharpen the grindstone again and again, as I show it in the video. It will not embed abrasive particles in the metal. You will see. Tell me if you want more information.

@Nevil Oh, 1/8 of an inch, that's realy a lot. That's probably too much for that little Dremel. I would take a die grinder with more power or maybe an angle grinder

Yes, if you need to grind down 1mm or more of material, for example, you can start with the angle grinder. It depends on how skillfully you can handle the angle grinder. But be careful, the workpiece can get very hot. The finish you do with the hand grinder

@@migru59 Dear Michael First of all, thank you very much for your video it is very helpful. Your method is widely used by professionals in many countries renovating machine tool slide ways if the layer to be removed is thick or the surface is hard. It is not considered economical to scrape a layer thicker than 0.05 mm by hand. Therefore, a layer over 0.05 mm is considered thick. But removing a 0.9 mm thick layer with a Dremel would be almost impossible, even for the part you process in the video. A lot of professionals at east-Europa and Asia on you tube use 115 mm angle grinder even for 0.02 mm. There are even those who do the finishing process with angle grinders. The professionals have developed skills to do very precise work with 115 mm angle grinders despite being large and heavy. For this, they use cut-off wheel with a thickness of 1-2 mm. They blunt the working edge by sharpening stone, as you do, to prevent the stone from cutting deeply. Even if mini grinders like the Dremel were much more comfortable to work with, they wouldn't work on large machines and professional work. Because they are made for amateurish small jobs. They are not suitable for long-term use. Pneumatic ones are convenient but are compressor dependent. Mini grinders with flexible shaft, which are powered by universal motors with speed adjustment that can work continuously, may be suitable for long-term use. Greetings from Turkey. Atalay Surmeli

Hello Atalay Surmeli, Thank you for your reply. I've never used an angle grinder for this kind of work. But if a lot of material has to be removed, it makes sense. When I was still working as a toolmaker, I used this grinder for grinding work: www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/ggs-28-lce-0601221100 Most of the works were concave or convex surfaces and also sliding guides in pressing tools. At home I reworked the sliding guides of my milling machine with the Proxxon grinder. He is very well suited for this. Greetings from Germany Michael

@@migru59 Hello Dear Michael Thank you for the information you provided. Renovation of the slideways of milling machine with Proxxson mini grinder is a great success, congratulations. It's very nice to share your experiences with us. Also Thanks for Bosch professional die grinder too. Perhaps may be useul, there are some people on you tube, who use straight rubber polishing wheel with shank, after the scraping with grinder, to make grinding marks smoother. Some of them also use only straight rubber polishing wheels,while scraping by grinding, to obtain shallow and smooth traces. Straight rubber polishing wheel with shank, like to straight grinding wheel with shank you use. I wish you continuation of your success and a happy life.

@@atalaysurmeli2653 Hello Atalay Surmeli I cannot recommend a rubber polishing wheel. When the surface is finished I use a whetstone/honing stone which I draw by hand 3 or 4 times over the finished surface. This will only remove the highest peaks, that's enough. For example, such or similar sharpening stones (120/240/400): www.amazon.de/OUHZNUX-Messersch%C3%A4rfsteine-Messersch%C3%A4rfer-profies-Schleifstein-Set/dp/B0BYJ7SFZK/ref= Many greetings

The workpiece is raw material

Thank you for you answer, Nicolas. You will not have abrasive particels in the work piece. Make a try. HSS Dremel bits and also Tungsten Carbide tools are better for aluminum or non-metallic materials like wood, plastics or something. You can make a try with HSS bits and tell us your result. Best regards, Michael.

You can also use this brown, grey and white grinding stones: www.ebay.com/itm/100pc-1-8-Mini-Rotary-Tools-Cutter-Grinding-Wheels-Polish-CHIFRS10/131928274288?hash=item1eb789b570:rk:5:pf:0

Thank you for your answer. Grinding does not introduce abrasive particles to enter the surface. If you have concerns you can use a grindstone for finishing. If your grinder is too loud, you can use earplugs. I do that too, if it's a longer work

Thank you for your Feedback. I do not understand your question. Could you explain to me what you mean?

migru59 Awesome. The rotary tool you used had an abrasive ceramic tool bit and I was wondering why you didn't use a tungsten carbide tool bit. I thought that the tungsten carbide wood retain its Cutting Edge for longer and be a cleaner method. Have you only used the pink abrasive tool bits with this method? Thank you for responding.

Oh, now I understand your question. Abrasive ceramic tool bits are the best for steel and hardened steel. I'm also using brown, gray, white abrasive ceramic tool bits. The differences are small. Tungsten carbide tools are better for aluminum or non-metallic materials like wood, plastics or something

migru59 okay awesome! Thank you so much for the response.

You are welcome :)

Super, das freut mich sehr! Und vielen Dank für das Feedback!

Thank you for your Reply! You're right, you need some practice. If you grind too large waves, maybee you press a bit too strong or you move the grinder too slowly over the surface. In the beginning, you can press a little bit more, in the end press less and less. The grinder should only slide over the surface. At the beginning of the video, the difference between highest and lowest point is 0.2mm. At the end less than 0.005mm. It is important to have a good concentric runout of the grinding pin (no vibrations). If it is possible to make a video of your work, I may help you better.

I won't publish the results of my attempt, because I mangled an - admittedly crappy - xy table badly! I just didn't realize how much material a grinding stone can remove . But I'm getting better. As soon as I get a decent result I'll publish it.

im a hobby mashinist from Bulgaria and i modified one pneumatic tool for cleaning welds.its cheap and very accurate for me.i just brazed cabide milling cutter to a flat bar.i dont know the name of the tool but its hardened rods to a piston bodi

i cant find any descent hand scraper or blue in Bulgaria

Eine Bauanleitung gibt es keine, aber hier ist der Bau von User "TICMIC" gut beschrieben: www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php/38265-Mechanische-Bauteile Als Software habe ich JEDICUT verwendet: www.aeropassion.net/index-en.php

Thank you for your feedback! What I show in this video is not an idea of mine. I am a toolmaker and it is quite a normal activity of a toolmaker. Let me know if you need more information.

Thank you for your feedback! You are right with the problem of the little particles. But it was only a small job and an exception. For bigger jobs I would cover the ballscrews and linear guides with wet cloths.