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The INDY is to big for stock na, I was going turbo anyways so I did not matter. My car was not faster in the quarter mile with the indy Vs Stock manifold when it was NA. I would suggest going different route for stock motor, and port & polish your upper-half stock manifold with this bottom half piece. copy link below: www.modernperformance.com/product/amm-no-90-lower-ported-half-stock-manifold-95-99-neon-20l-dohc/95-99-neon-20l-engine-components-throttle-body-and-intake-manifold Both intake will need some modifications to properly fit anyways: The indy I had to cut and adjust the fuel rail to properly fit, chase the bolt threads, plumb a 90 degree brass fitting for the coolant hose off the manifold, and needed some trimming to my radiator top bracket to move the rad closer to the rad support. Indy manifold fits thigh in there, you have to make sure it is not rubbing hoses or components... The AMM no 90 degree bend they sell from from modern is explained fairly well for what is needed to fit.. Good luck with what you choose but I would go with the no 90 bend if it was me again doing it.

@@inferno2424 thanks a lot bro! Great info!

A Syked flash pcm with a AEM F/IC 30-1913 to set fuel per boost and detune spark. You could use the same AEM F/IC and get it tune, for the money your going to spend. probably cheaper getting a srt4 from the get go.

@@inferno2424 i have a 2015 dodge dart 2.0 with a n/a syked tune as well. Looking to do the same thing with a aem fic as well. Do you have an email? I have alot of questions. Love those numbers man

@@gilbertsanchezz3107 dont take this wrong, but my advise is to sell your 2.0 and buy a 1.4 turbo if you want more power. You will save yourself thousands and huge headaches figuring things out and making it all fit to function well. Plus to have it tuned properly. But if your up for the challenge and do all the research im sure it can be done ( i seen turbo kits out there for the dart by RRM??$$)...but 1st, look at the aem FIC instalation diagrams and if it has compatible sensors into your dart it should work..sorry i'm not familliar with the darts at all....so my help is useless...even for my car i forgot..i havent touch the AEM in 5 years or more as my car is stored away...

It is a 2.0L DOHC. ModernPerformance.com is a good place to start looking for performance parts. Do the math before and you will realize for the money you will put down to make an NA car go fast, it will be cheaper and faster to SRT-4 swap it or just buy a SRT-4...Also srt-4 will be more reliable and a fun daily driver..

@@inferno2424 Thanks. And a srt 4 swap is cool and all but my engine has very low miles and is running strong. Plus building this 2.0L will be very rare!

@@antonioestrada9989 True! my build 99 r/t 2.0 turbo is more fun than my 05 Srt-4,,, but the build 2.0L will be more expensive

@@inferno2424 Yeah I did the math and it's about 4,000 to completely build my engine. I absolutely love your neon the color and body kit is amazing. I'm going for a sleeper build. Same yellow as the car beside it. Thanks alot for the website I know have a great build coming my way!

Some day...

They were on the car when i purchased it in 2002. They are urethane plastic and were made by wings west.

Yes you are correct, they were easier when i got it in 2002 but now they are hard to find just in good condition.

Thanks, I was looking too at a clean black ACR way back when i purchased this one, and yes you are correct on the body kit

It's an Iceman

thanks, yes an Iceman/ or rebrand as mopar CAI sold in the MP catalog in the early 2000.

Head was port matched, light port job with 3 angle valve job and all radius done. head and block were only deck to a minimum to have a good seal, sorry don't know how much.The motor was all build with low compression piston in mine as turbo was the way i was going.

Thanks!

+Steve The Man I would gestimate around 160whp back then on crane 16, car weight is about 2800lbs with me in and trap speeds were 91-92mph with street tires. There are new videos of the current turbo setup.

***** Sweet!

17"

modernperformance.com is a good start, i bought multiple items from them over the years

drives like a normal oe clutch because I installed a organic disk, but I'm returning back to the original 6 puck for more boost. it's not noticeable with the turbo now, but before installing the turbo when it had the Al FW and the Al UDP (which saved around close to10lbs on the rotating assembly) Car would rev through gears faster 1,2,3....4th and 5th were not noticeable. nice torque #'s, I knew mine were low. what are your mods, and what did you use for adding the extra fuel?

+inferno2424 Didn't realize you replied to my comment. Stock 2.0 block and stock sohc head, 8.0:1 compression with added HG shim. I had this car running back in 2004. Fuel system consisted of Walbro 255 LPH pump, spoolboy cannister with 6 an feed, stock fuel line as return, 30lbs injectors, BEGI rising rate regulator, aeromotive 1:1 regulator, LFS fuel rail. Chill Factory 3" downpipe, no cat, 3" exhaust with 1 resonator (no muffler). Car was dynoed at 10 PSI on the 16g 208 whp/220 wtq Fuel pressure wasn't too consistent in boost, but it was kept around 11.5 AFR. Fun car. Now I'm building a 2.4L caravan DOHC, fully p&p head, crane 12 cams, and Hahn 20g kit with big fmic. Trying to get as close as i can to 400 whp on pump gas

this was on mopar performance pcm, I later changed to syked ecu. Idle was better with the syked ecu because the knock sensor is desensatize in the idle range. The mopar pcm showed knock (valve train noise due to cams and rhoades lifter) and retarded timming and gave it more lope (this was verified with a DRB3 scan tool). I later added a AEM FIC to the syked ecu before going turbo and I trimmed fuel at idle and the idle lope was almost all gone, cold starts and warm up where like there was no cams..

Wings West