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Really? You try and remove the master pin with what is essentially a jewellers tappy tap hammer and tiny little pin punch. Then you try and get it out with a jack hammer with a sharpened bit in it. All that would have done is bell out the end of the master pin and made it tighter in the links. The are two ways to get the master pin out. 1: Use a hydraulic press 2: Use a 15-20 lb sledge and a hot drift ( a punch with a handle ) and that requires two people. Of course you may be unlucky and actually get the pin out with that jewellers hammer. That would mean that the pin is worn out will in all probability not stay in. That would mean you have to fit a new pin and that will also mean you need to fit a new master link which will require the aforementioned hydraulic press. As for the bearing blocks. Even though you have managed to tighten the bolts they will, in all probability, come loose again. The bolts only force the plates together, it is the friction between the mating surfaces that actually holds everything together. You need to remove the bearing blocks and clean all rust off the mating faces. The faces also need to be flat, ideally machined flat, otherwise you are only clamping upto high spots, those highspots will give way under load and then you have loose bearing blocks again. With loose bolts. If they are nut and bolt then replace them. If they are threaded into a component then, as a minimum chase the threads with a tap to clean out any rust and loose material. If the threads are worn you need to either plug the holes with weld then redrill and tap them or use something like a helicoil to replace the threads. The problem with loose bolts in threaded components is that loose bolts wobble in the hole. That wobbling wears the threads out of spec. Out of spec threads will not stay tight. Wether or not you do any of the above depends on what sort of life you are expecting to out of the machine. If you are only expecting a few weeks of work out of it then just go for it.

Heat is the finest way to remove stubborn bolts or broken studs .🇬🇧🇮🇪

Sledge hamme,r mate and a drft..

Dang battery, just in the good part. Lol

I have three of these a 52 and 55 and a 57, the 52 and 57 have the loader, the 55 is a bulldozer just like yours. My 57 has the same problem left track always falls off the front idler, my front idler is so worn I'm having problems finding a replacement front

Call it blue bull

Front idler has too much wear on the wear pads. Moves too much left and right

ole blue i think would be a good name

look up zimmerman oliver cletrac for parts and you can get pump rebuilt if you look up hercules dd130 diesel pump. pricey but rare machine in diesel.

nice

Well if the bucket stated up long then 4 hours it cause permit pump damage....my oli lady mit leave me if I was a badass little crawler an couldn't get it up ...all you could do is just crawl around all day your friends stop by what you do to Day aw just crawl around....I know am stupid....3 time Iv watched it tho 👍 steal a Great video 👍👍👍

Oh yea the Cosby sauce is a sure thang a couple of snorts an yull know great video 👍👍

Skinny needs the love!

You might want to try Area Diesel Service for suggestions on the injector pump. Several RUclips folk use them and they have tons of older/odd stuff

Want more of the Oliver 😊

Yes it do want to c more but it won't b doing if u use all that stuff in can lol

U want area diesel and have a word

Send the injection pump to Area Diesel service and let them take a look.

Did the Oliver cost you same amount as the D2 Cat? I'd like to see your restoration progress on the Oliver track loader. Looks like Ford blue !

She's a runner!

Yes

Little bucket

Geezus buddy you were drowning it in ether....you wouldn't even let it come down to an idle...

“Babe the Blue Oliver”

Get her running 👍

Old Blue

Area diesel service can fix thoes pumps google them i think there in iowa !Enough with the ether !

I’d call it green, because yellow and blue make green and it would be fun to see how many people caught the reference lol

Info on 310 tracks. ruclips.net/video/K4tFyLsOPL0/видео.html

Starter seemed to work OK. If it starts skipping you might look at changing that shim between it and the bell housing to something thinner if the flywheel will allow more gear engagement.

call it blue max

les talk more work

I think the weld on the bracket is insufficient in size. Hope I'm wrong.

Ox is a good name

Do a compression test to see if it can run. Then check valve adj. Right?

Love those old Oliver's let's see this thing work......

Skinny potato

Paul Bunyon blue ox (BABE)

Worth fixing

You only give a diesel a sniff of starter fluid once in a while. You drowned that poor thing, and lucky you didn't lock it up. It takes a lot of cranking to get heat built up in the cylinders to ignite the fuel. Thats why older diesels have pony moters to warm them up before turning on the fuel for them to actually start. Put that either can down for awhile and crank that engine to build up some friction heat, then only like a 1/2 second sniff of either.

Baby Smirf

Would love to see more of this machine getting repaired and back in service. Pacific Northwest hillbilly rebuilt a cat dozer that had a hydraulic pump on the front and squatch253 just rebuilt a d2 cat and did a full restoration of it , and I agree with to others Area diesel service is a good place to send the injector pump.

Babe The Blue OX, Paul Bunyan's ttrusty sidekick.

Old Blue is great name cheers

next time use two cans of either and see how that works out for you

Put a pump on it that motor solid 😊

Area Diesel Illinois for your pump

Great video ! I have a camp in Sangerville Maine. I love watching how your improving the land and using great old iron to do it.

nice dozer😅❤

Call it confusion. It was yellow now it's blue.