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Excellent! Thank you.

Really helpful, good video. Not a lot of useless fluff.

What is the amp and volt rating for the bridge rectifier?

Nice to hear from you! Happy Canada Day! 🇨🇦

That O Canada horn is awesome! Happy Canada Day!

I looked at a lot of videos for this and this is by far the best explanation on how to do this lighting set up

DUDE they are via coaches.......us CANADIAN FOLK dont need lights in our carts as we arent afraid of the dark (or afraid the guy sitting beside us has a bigger gun)

Very weak review, sorry dude

I suggest using 2 wire JST connectors to facilitate mounting under the roof and connecting to the chassis. Makes servicing easier also. Great video, thanks

was that Walthers car a Mainline or Proto ?

Facebook I saw a photo of an actual CN SW1200RS painted in the colouring scheme that you have in your video, it’s road number was 1355.

Great job well done.

That's what the black strips are for to cover the access lighting!

Did you make the # boards?

Could you breakdown of what you used resister/rectifier / bridge correct voltage amp please

very effective method for weathering brick,also cost wise not expensive,will try it out!

Why notbreplacevthe creppy original motor a cheap 10 $ Sagami motor with flywheel will improvebthe engine a lot more.

You office is horrendous ! Just like mine I love it!

These sets is what got me into the Hobby as is for many of us younger HO collectors in Canada. I started actually ironically enough with the Last set, the Big 10 express. Got it for Christmas! Since then my parents got me the Mini Chef express as a local loblaws fell upon a hidden case and was selling then for like 60 bucks. After that through out the years I acquired 3 more, the 1995 insider Express with the SD 35, the Bullet Nose express (also a personal favorite) and the Pacific Express. I found them online, hobby shows ect.. The steam locomotives in my opinion are second to none in value. I did convert two locomotive (Hudson 4-6-4 and the Bullet nose) to DCC movement only no sound. They are both regulars at my local clubs pulling Passenger trains, heavy ones at that. I find they do pull well, the mountain type Bullet nose in particular. I got it too pull an 8 car heavy passenger train (a member let me haul a rapido one with it). In all, I've said this to everyone and everyone agrees here in montreal in the community, for canadian steam collectors, nothing else like these exist for the money. As of now (2023) the average price for a set is 150-200 bucks canadian which is still a great deal. These sets are becoming collectable as they are becoming rarer as the years go on. I've started driving out to Ottawa and even Kingston to pick these things up because in Montreal they aren't many out for sale. They are great sets and a special piece of Canadian model railroad history. Cool collection man

I do my lighting almost the same way as you do except I use a larger capacitor, 3300uF. I've even made my own wheel pickups, but I've found another product which is really easy to add to a model coach. Those are ESU current collectors, part #50707. The trick is to cut them apart and use one for each wheel, remembering to make sure the insulated wheels are opposite each other. They mount right on the trucks. I've already gotten a couple of packs, as each pack will do 8 axles. I got mine from Litchfield Station for $8.95 + $4.00 shipping which is pretty darn cheap. I lit up an old REA (Railway Express Agency) coach and made my own wheel pickups out of some thin copper I salvaged from an old computer. I should have gotten the warm white LED strips but instead I got bright white which were a little too white for my liking. So, I painted each LED with some yellow acrylic paint and it toned down the light to look more period correct for the era I model which is the Central of Georgia railroad. I do only DC as I hate the sound of HO DCC. Cheers from an old modeler (72) in eastern TN

Nicely done and explained. Got an inspiration for adding lights on my walthers coaches. I think my coaches does not have contacts on the wheels for getting current but I am going to use my brains for how to put them in place. Many thanks !!!

No wheel connected

Awesome a friend of mine just received almost ALL of these from his dad who had passed away, and my friend didn't know his dad was collecting them. Would you be interested in them? Most unopened.

I have sets #2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10. They are all for sale. Are you interested in any of them?

Is it conventional or command control

I hope they do some in MCTS schemes

I thought the roof of those buses were supposed to be yellow

What is the values of the resistor and capacitor? I keep trying different values and the lights seem to go out almost instantly, irresoective of what values I use.

Wow, that one long train !

Great video, I’m looking to do a small n-scale set of the NAR, and this was very useful Information, especially as I live in Central Europe, so attending a rail meet in Edmonton won’t happen for a looong while ! 😊

I find Walthers expensive, "a la cart" expensive. Metal wheel power pickup for my car was also additional. I had found a series of Concourse/IHC. cars in D&H paint scheme. 1/2 the price, same quality, no metal wheels. Only mistake was the ends painted wrong, was an easy fix (Badger paint matched factory paint perfectly) . Added my own LED lighting. Still cheaper & had to add my own hand graps, just ;ike on the Walthers cars. Same simple interior, I added car window tint to obscure the interior.

I picked up a Rivarossi Big Boy along with a Rivarossi Challenger and Allegheny in an estate sale also many other locomotives some brass ones in an estate sale a year ago they all worked great after some servicing for a very reasonable price very pleased with them.

best pc case in my opinion

I have the pacific express and an unopened mini chefs express. If you do add DCC, I would love to see a video of you doing it.

Thanks for the good explanation. I have a few superliners that I have wanted to light but since walthers discontinued those lighting sets the ones that are online are expensive.

It took me a long time to get them all, but I have all 11 of these. I think I've only opened 3 or 4 of them. I plan on putting them (all in box) on the wall around my train room at some point. I've managed to find some of the short CN hoppers at a train show once, but they are a rare find. The hoppers are indeed uniquely numbered in all 3 of the sets that they came in. I really wish they'd do more of these. Maybe at some point there will be another "anniversary" edition year, or something. I've written to them many times about it, and they give me pretty much a canned response each time.

I just picked up a Big boy weathered DCC and Sound for $75.00 but the trailing truck is damaged. Does anyone know where I can get parts?

Have you tried replacing the motor brushes with Athearn ones???

Proto 2000 was the ScaleTrains of their day

What are the voltage specs on your components. Bridge rectifier, resistor and capacitor

I have assembled many of these couplers, it's a bit finicky until you have practiced a while. The jig is a must! Be careful with your glue application: too much and the excess glue could creep into areas that will lock the coupler. Beyond that, the hardest build part is the spring, it will disappear if not handled and correctly set. Once assembled they look great!

Thx bud great video, answered all my questions.

I am European and in my locomotives and rolling stock I use the Fleischmann Profi couplers. They were the best for me...until I started collecting American locomotives and rolling stock. So I decided recently to change all my Fleischmann-Profi couplers for Kadee ones. I think that Kadees are easy to install and very very reliable. The fact that you only need a magnet for decoupling is a plus. Frankly, I don't see any advantage on Sergent couplers but the looks. But for me functionality is above appearance and the fact that when using Sergent couplers you need to do the decoupling manually is a drawback. So I'll stay with my Kadees any time.

ok how did you get the front and top panels off?

Which way does the SD card go in (metal strip down or up), what is the 2nd button for? How long does a charge last? How long does it take to charge?

That false top drive definitely sucks. I've been looking at cases and everything said here is pretty much dead on, and why the N24 caught my attention. Not a fan of glass or RGB at all. This case has that nice clunky industrial Warhammer 40k look to it and I am loving it. Screw LEDs and RGB - I want to paint this beast of a case.

over 40 years using kadee number 5. they are the gold standard. been using some of the new fangeled "whisker" couplers that replaced the #5. (bad eyes, and fat fingers here). but i have pulled 250 weighed cars, using #5 kadees. up to 8 sd-45 athearn blue box ( not all needed just love big power). set them up fastest up front slowest in the rear. so all were pulling. not fighting. (was done in dc.some 30 years back). and yes this was up hill. down and back up/down again to complete the task. (walnut creek, ca. club). i will not change my couplers to any other brand. not even if (someone, manf, etc). did the job and gave me the couplers for free.

Going to perform the same decoder install shortly and wonder what type of White LED did you use for the front light, 3mm ? and what voltage was it ?

The deep European flanges won't run on Code 83 track and the three-pole motor and tall gearing doesn't allow slow running. They just sort of jerk from 0 to 20 as soon as you crack the throttle. I bought mine new for $39.93 in 1973 and still run it occasionally. It runs very well and the plastic traction tires allow it to pull most any train.

do you know what the name of that charging cord is? i lost mine and cannot seem to figure out what its called