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I think a fair few are hiding surprises. I know I've said it a few times, but this car had a lot of money spent on it in the early to late 2000's and the standard of the work is does not match the money paid. The standard of welding is atrocious. A hot air gun is on my list of tools to get, first I need a reciprocating saw.. I have a parts manual too, I agree they are essential.

@@davidbaugh I scanned mine and them stopped sections enlarged to A4 then laminated them Can't cope with technology very well I stapled them along the workshop wall, and also some images of origional cars taken from below I work better with pictures!!!just building a tardis that way

Thanks. I remember getting some weld spatter on a Spitfire windscreen many years ago..thanks for the reminder.. I don't know why it's called an access panel, someone has commented it's for access to spot weld.....I have never seen one screwed in place only welded.. It doesn't hinder getting to the Hinge Bolts..

Thanks. I may need to replace a small section of the floor too. I'm trying to approach doing these repairs in a logical way, I may be being a little too cautious.....all a learning curve. I almost bought a reciprocating saw a few months ago but see one will bee essential.

Thanks. It's so well engineered, some parts are almost works of art. In the video I made sure I put the upper and lower hinge shim sets in a different place in the car, but after putting the camera away I couldn't remember which were which so had to look at the video to remember.......old age. Safely labeled and stored now.

@@davidbaugh HAHA.....so you also suffer from the missing 10mm sockets and 7/16th syndrome. I once spent 2 days searching for a missing circlip, that eventually fell out of the turnups on my overalls. Yes old age is a bugger, but it beats watching TV all day. One reason i like your videos. It is real.

Just to think, all this started with a bit of faulty paintwork on the front valance😅😅🤔

Similar thing happened with my Lotus Elan!!!

@@davidbaugh I use Chinese food containers, easy enough to chuck the bits in, a quick squirt of WD40, then write on the lid with a steinel marker pen, I also got a big pack of luggage labels, I learnt this after helping a friend rebuild a car that his father Dismantled 40 odd years before, every part had a label attached, and smaller parts were in cardboard boxes, never use electrical tape or masking tape, that falls off and degrades taking lots of pictures is always a great idea as well

Thanks for the comment. I too like to see fabrication work and the process of repairing bodywork. As someone with a small amount of experience a job such as the N/S Splash panel, it can be daunting especially when someone has made such a mess. I think once I have removed some of the old repair sections it will become clear. I do know how it should look which helps. I'm still mulling over the best way to make the pressed section....watch this space. PS I enjoy watching your videos and am a subscriber. Love the GT6. I've had 2 Spitfires one I rebuilt the Boot floor and Bonnet (with my Dad) in the late 80's the second I resprayed in a small garage.....Great fun. Cheers David

@@davidbaugh a good way of making those indents in the panel is to buy a bead roller, but for only a few small repairs it might be a waste of money, a cheaper way, is to get some offcuts of kitchen worktop, usually about 45 mm thick, or some 40mm ply, and then mark the triangular shape into the play with your template, then using either a router, if you have one, or a drill and flat bit and a chisel and sandpaper, create the profile in the timber, clamp youre metal to it, then hammer the shape into place, works well, but make a cardboard template that matches the timber, then lay that on top and using a marker pen transfer the shape onto the metal, otherwise its hard to find the indent at first keep up the good work

@@davidbaugh Well, definitely interested to see what you come up with! If I was going to make those pressings without buying anything I think I’d make a wooden buck to either press or hammer form them, and try and make it reversible so both sides could be made. Glad you like seeing my Triumphs too, they are good fun as you say. Feeling a bit daunted still with the GT6 though as there’s so much work to be done, I’ll get there though.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I do remember watching someone using that technique a long time ago. My problem may be access behind the pinhole in the chassis member .

Many thanks. I'll cover as much as I can...... I find it annoying that someone charged a lot of money to carry out such shoddy work. I just need to decide on a plan of action........more coming soon Cheers David

It's certainly well made and engineered. Plenty to keep me busy.

Thanks. As you may have seen from some of the other videos there's lots to do. The next series of videos will be on the repairs tho the corroded 'Splash Panels' by the bulkhead.

Thank you. I'll be covering the state of the "Splash Panels" tomorrow. They are terrible and in need of a lot of work.

Many thanks, hopefully more to come soon. Knowing the RRS as I do after over 6 years of ownership by now there are a few things I would look for. The usual, good service history, timing belt change (when was it last done), it should have had a transmission service by now. Check the car is sitting level before you start it....if it's lower on one side it could need the air suspension compressor changing or an air bag leak (I had to take mine back for a compressor a day after I picked mine up.) Other things I would check.... 1. On a drive check the steering is not stiff at slow speed, could be a seizing steering universal joint. 2. On a drive if you have the opportunity accelerate hard to get above 3000rpm, at that point the second turbo kicks in, if the exhaust smokes it needs the second turbo drain changed for a longer one that stops oil from collecting and on hard acceleration from releasing the oil. (I have had mine changed because of this issue.) 3. If you can check the inlet manifolds (see my video on "Restricted Performance) to see no evidence of leaking oil or black gunge, this would indicate a cracked manifold. £850 job. Quite a common issue. 4. Check passenger and driver footwells are dry. 5.There are a number of sensors that can create issues and are fairly common, and I have experienced..... low screen wash, but is topped up is a faulty sensor in washer tank , bonnet latch sensor ( open and close bonnet and start the car if it beeps it's probably the sensor...easy diy fix). Water in fuel warning in dash is a sensor in the fuel filter should show on dash if an issue. 6. lower and raise all windows to ensure they all work. 7. Check doors lock and unlock without beeping. 8. look at the bush on the prop/drive shaft, the rubber gives way eventually meaning a new prop shaft ( I have to do mine soon) This may sound a little disheartening but is not meant to be it's just a few issues that can be detected on your test. On a positive note they are great cars I still love mine and is one of the best I have owned in spite of some of the issues. They are great to drive, and do feel special. You will not regret buying one if you go in with eyes wide open. Also have a little fund just in case. ohh get yourself a diagnostic tool, can't recommend one enough. Please let me know if you need any more info... you can also PM me . One more thing, I think they, the L320 is the next classic Range Rover , the last of the classic styling and getting towards the bottom of their depreciation curve. All the best David.

@@davidbaugh really appreciate you taking the time to reply. I'll have a good read of it in the morning, thanks again.

I end up taking three times as much footage as I need. Thanks, I really enjoy the fabrication process....it's getting easier the more I do. Yes, there's a lot more to than I thought at the start.

Many thanks.

Thanks for the comment. Yes I still have my RRS. I do have some videos coming soon.

Thanks will look forward to those

Nice bonus.. The recall was issued about 2 years ago. I hope you enjoy your RRS as I do, they are addictive. I would advise getting a diagnostic tool they can be very useful. Cheers David.

Thanks...Have a bit more time, so hopefully can make good progress.

Thanks. I have used the method you referred to a few times, however I was determined to use the die grinder. More tricky than it looks.....unless it's just me.

@@davidbaugh Easy for me, dad was a toolmaker, and as a trainee sparks I was taught even more metal work, as we had to fabricate lots of parts by hand, the die grinder looks a useful bit of kit, but I am trying to cut down on tools , i nearly bought an air punch for plug welding, but bought a spare cordless drill as I have lots of batteries and a spare charger

Thanks. Good luck with your car. Even though I've only stripped the front of my car the parts take up so much room. Luckily I have access to another garage 50 yds away where my Lotus lives.........(in bits)

Thanks Phil. Still lots to to do.

I've been watching lots..... I find it very therapeutic in many ways. It would be great to have all the proper tools but there's usually a way around. I'm thinking of getting a metal folding Brake......

Disagree.. I researched as to whether a flush would be better than just an oil change and for the reasons given in the video I decided on a transmission flush.

Many thanks.

Hi. If you can see that the coolant level is at the level it should be when the "Low Level" is on then it is the sensor that's failed and you can still use your RR. If the level is dropping when you use the car, you must have a leak so don't use it until you can fix the leak. The coolant level sensor failure is a very common issue........if you do have to change it........remove the headlight it makes the job far easier, I found out the hard way.

@@davidbaugh I have topped it up to over the fill line and it's working fine now but monitoring the situation. Thanks for this useful video. Do you still have the L320?

Great. Yes I still have my L320. Hope to have more videos soon. Need to do a full service, maybe replace the prop shaft or just the bush (not sure yet). Cheers David

Thanks.

Thanks. Mine has developed an issue too, it will not rotate fully to the lowest setting. My dial surround has a tang missing which may be the issue.I'm going to have a look soon, I'll let you know how I get on. David

Yes the other dial under it does have a tab broken under. That might be the problem. I just don’t know where to get that bottom by itself to test if that is the problem 😞

Also I am afraid to try using another by removing the other one as a tester from the other side thinking I might break that tab while removing it and then both not working. Have you tried?

I did consider folding to make the bottom/side section, however I haven't the facilities to do that at the moment. The Bumper Iron Support Bracket is made from folded 3mm sheet which I am going to try to fabricate as one piece if I can. I have been looking at metal folding brakes recently, but a bench mounted unit would not bend 3mm. I have seen a technique where you score into the sheet at the bend line then use a brake. Watch this space.....

@@davidbaugh I have used the score method with 3-5mm using an angle grinder that then means that you will need to run a weld along the score line but this is easy on the bench and achieves a neat finish. I've never needed a press break and have used a stout vice with maybe a couple of pieces of angle to extend the jaws. Heat and a good set of hammers works wonders.

Thanks, I'll be making it look a little better.

Probably better than mine. Lol

Thanks, much appreciated.

Many thanks. I take your point about injecting from the side. I have the same to do on the O/S rail.......not so corroded though, I may be able to cut in small sections. Cheers David

@@davidbaugh 20mm hole, then fit a 20mm blanking grommet, easy to get from electrical suppliers or DIY store I think you can still get 10mm blanking grommets as well

Thanks. I'm quite enjoying the work.. I need to get myself a few more clamps, some smaller magnetic type and C-clamps. I'm finding the more I do the more kit I wish I had. The Bumper Iron bracket is made of 3mm plate and the original is a U shape and one piece of metal, which I'll never bend with the kit I have so I may make it from 3 pieces....need to think about that one..

@@davidbaugh you could buy a small gas oxygen set and heat it enough to bend, or find a local metal fabricators or forge, and bung them some cash to bend it

Thanks, I've got a few of those type of jobs coming..

Hi, repairing the clock is on my to do list. Other problems with the car are a higher priority at the moment....welding etc. See my other videos. I'll be getting one of the repair kits and tackling the job later in the year. David

Hi, I'm not sure, there's a foam layer under the black 'vinyl' layer which as you can see in the video just crumbles and needs replacing. As for just leaving the wood exposed, I guess it's possible....when I get round to replacing the foam I'll see what the fit is like and how it looks and let you know. As you can see from my videos other jobs have taken priority.

Thank you! I like the later P4 models but prefer the look of the full wooden dash without the padding..

Hi, I find dismantling parts of a car very therapeutic and learning how the car goes together (with the help of the manual of course). Just removed the Smiths Heater Box and Blower ( which I guess you Morris has a version of) and I'll be renovating them soon. I've been putting off starting to weld repair sections on the N/S front chassis but made a start yesterday.....video on progress soon. I agree with you on being blocked seems to be hit and miss sometimes. Love to see some pics of your Morris good luck with the restoration..

Many thanks, how things take off from a relatively simple repair...

Thanks. The fibres are from some matting stuck on from under the carpets.

I think the flexi pipes are in pretty good condition, however I may replace them for peace of mind. I took the blower apart the weekend and most of the captive nuts in the Bakelite came out so need to Araldite them in place otherwise it's impossible to put back together..

Mine look in good condition, however I may replace them for peace of mind.