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@@arjunt973 I imagine they're all the same impedance, but you'd really have to check with a multimeter. I think the GS350 stock sub is actually 6 Ohm. I'm sorry I can't be much help there as I've only done this to my car and I haven't worked on any other Lexus. Good luck though, post a reply in here if you find a good solution so others can learn

@@francoise5803 so glad that helped!

Could you get a second sub of the same type and wire it in series? That would give you 8 ohms. I'm not sure if it would be any louder though - perhaps you could borrow another 4 ohm from a friend or something and see if it improves at all. Otherwise you'll need to get a dedicated amplifier and speaker-to-line-level converter to drive your 4 ohm sub.

@@IainFraser81 wait in a series that would become 4ohms im I wrong. Sub is 4ohms dvc wired parallel ( can't remember actual name but the wiring that makes it 8ohms)

I'm glad helping you fix your Sodastream had elicited such a warm reaction 😂. Thank you.

Just at my local car stereo shop. A lot of auto spares stores carry them too, particularly the ones who also sell audio gear.

Thank you and also how’s the stock amp holding up? I’m planing on doing this to my 2009 lexus IS 350 with ML. My oem subwoofer has completely blown lol

@@reesehardesty4530 yeah, just fine actually, I haven't had an issue with it. I am considering getting a dedicated amp for it though... I kind of want a bit more bass

The gas will come out of the unit when you press the button whether you've attached a bottle or not. If gas hisses out of the nozzle, that's a good indication it's working!

That's great, I'm really happy to hear this video is still helping people! I haven't had another issue with my SodaStream since fixing it like this (and I use it a LOT).

Could probably use a rubber band instead of wire.

Oh, great idea, thanks I'll do that!

Hmm, that's strange. Although the sub can run off either pair. If you check the wiring diagram in the description of this video, you can see the connector diagram in there. I install mine on 1 and 5 (brown +ve, green -ve) and my connector doesn't have anything on 2 and 6. If you're getting no sound at all, I wonder if switching over to 1 and 5 might help?

@@IainFraser81 I do get output from 1 and 5, although it's not very much at all. What's thrown me, is every write up I have read says 2 and 6 shouldn't have any cables in for a ML system. I can't find any reference to these cables anywhere. The old ML subwoofer only has two pins too, which must be 1 and 5 from the amp, although I can't get to the connector itself to see if it also has cables from 2 and 6. I also haven't been able to see if there is actually pins on the amp for 2 and 6 and if cables are just terminated there that do nothing. Strange.

@@jamiewall8943 to directly answer your question: you will certainly notice if the sub is working. The difference is huge when it works. I wonder if you're able to put a multimeter across 2 and 6 sometime and measure the output? If there's signal from both, I wonder if they're dual 4 ohm outputs and you connect one set to each set of terminals? If you have mismatched impedance (amp is 4, speaker is 8) then it'll be quieter. I'd be very interested to see the model number on your amp. Also, this is all me just having a guess. I'd love to know more if you're able to access it sometime. Also, where in the world are you? I wonder if there's any variation by region?

@@IainFraser81 I've investigated some more today, and output 2 and 6 is the feed for the rear right parcel shelf speaker. It's a red and light blue feed. Numbers on the amp are IF 86280-0W550 and 1879286. I do get good bass when over 30 volume, although below that, it's almost nothing. I had a 2013 IS350 before, and that was pumping at all volumes. That was non-ML though. I also realised I had the plastic centre closed, so have opened that and it's much better. Thanks for your help!

@@IainFraser81 PS, I'm in Perth, WA

I think it would work, for sure. But I don't know if you'll get much tangible benefit from a bigger cone in this instance. That said, the 12" is another dB more sensitive and is rated for a slightly bassier 26Hz vs the 28Hz of the 10". So all in all, the specs are slightly better than the one I have in my car. Of course the other thing about the larger speaker is the aesthetics, it just looks cooler when you open the trunk. For me, I actually like to open the ski port in my car and have the sub poking through into the cabin, just because I think it looks really cool. But in my case, the 10 is just ever so slightly too big - an 8 probably would have looked a bit better. I still love how it looks though! But to answer your question, yes I definitely think it would work. The only considerations are really space, and whether the additional cost for the 12 is worth it for you. I'm genuinely curious, I'd love to be able to hear them side by side in the same car and see what the difference is! Anyway, if that's the speaker you want, I say go for it! Remember to drop in and let me know how you went, and how you think it sounds when you've installed it. Good luck! Edit: with all of the above said though, just be sure to set your expectations realistically. At the end of the day it's still a factory amplifier that's driving the speaker, so even with a bigger speaker, it still isn't going to be a window rattler. But as a replacement for a blown sub and to complement the existing system, I can tell you it sounds really good.

Appreciate your input. Yeah I’m not expecting a window shaker especially from the factory amp. Just want better sound, I currently have a 8’ pioneer sub which I rewired just like you did. It cleaned up some how, before the speakers would cut out after 40 in volume, that problem went away. Maybe I had a short some where and after splicing into the main subwoofer lines it fixed the issue. I’m going to see if the little tricks to improve the bass would help, I purchased a “vented” 12’ subwoofer box supposedly running a “vented” box produces louder bass and its more efficient and doesn’t require as much amp power. I’ll keep you posted with the results. Again, thank you for your awesome research and functional expertise! 🙂👍

Night and day difference. Coming from an 8’ subwoofer. Using a vented box also made a drastic change with the 12’ subwoofer. My stereo system is perfect now. Appreciate all your info!

@@junetoroc wow, really?! That's amazing! Thanks for getting back to me. Ha ha, I'm super tempted to look at a 12 now 😂. But yeah, it's nice to get the bass back isn't it. Hope you have many hours of great listening.

So glad to have bass back! I also cranked up the bass +2 and treble +1.

Hmm, that's a bit beyond my knowledge, but I think the system you're talking about takes a speaker level input and converts it to line level for input into an aftermarket amplifier, right? I don't know for sure, but you might not need one. As your car already has a Mark Levinson amp, you may be able to just piggyback off the factory line inputs. Again, I don't know for sure, but I imagine you could splice into those cables and solder on some RCAs that you could plug straight into your aftermarket amp. You'd need to talk to an installer or someone who knows more than me though - I haven't researched this.

All the speakers in the car. In the video, I show you the specific wires that control the subwoofer, but the wiring diagram in the description shows all of them

@@IainFraser81 Ahh okay, do you know how many watts the subwoofer can handle? I am looking to install a 12 inch sub but not sure if I need to purchase a whole new amp.

@@CencuGaming I'm not sure how many Watts the factory amp can drive, but it's no beast by any means. The factory sub is quite small and I think it was designed to add some richness and depth to the system, without intending to be a window rattler for bass heavy music. As such, rather than looking at the wattage of the sub or it's diameter, you should be looking for the highest sensitivity 8 ohm sub you can buy. The sensitivity rating is a measure of how efficiently the speaker can convert the signal into sound. A more sensitive subwoofer will be louder for the same input power. My subwoofer has a sensitivity of 86dB, the next model down is 85dB. Decibels are measured on a logarithmic scale, so that 1dB difference is actually quite significant. I've linked to both models in the video description. So if you want to use the factory amp, here's what you need: 8 ohms, high efficiency/sensitivity (86dB or better). Diameter and rated wattage are not as important.

большое спасибо. Я рад, что мое видео оказалось полезным! 😊

Sure, I could do that. I've also added a few "quality of life" things to my setup, which were supposed to tide me over until I bought a Grom VLine piggyback system... but, haha, my jury-rigged bluetooth setup works well enough that I might just keep it as is. What sorts of things would you like to see in the video?

Yes it does! I bought it with Browns, but quickly changed to Blues and it's a cheap way to trial new switches! 😊

Heavy, sturdy, solid. It feels like a quality piece of kit. I use both the Q0 and the Q6 every day and they don't feel super different.

Thanks. I was thinking of getting maybe Q1 with a Q0 to use when I need the numpad but hoping to kinda get both of them to be close enough in feeling. Maybe once in a while, I can swap out the switches on the Q0 to get a feel of new switches in hopes that it feels close to mounting on the Q1, before I commit to buying more switches. Any thoughts?

@@jierenzheng7670 that's exactly what I do. I always wanted the satisfying clicky blue sound, but couldn't commit to making my main keyboard so loud. But as a macropad, having blues on the Q0 is really easy to live with. And you're right, it's much cheaper and easier to trial switches on the 0 before you go for a whole set.

@@IainFraser81 I found out that there's a model, Q0 Plus which is gasket mounted rather than tray mounted which is much closer in feel :O

@@jierenzheng7670 I'm so excited for the Q0 plus. I don't -need- one, but with the function keys and rotary switch... I wish it were available when I was looking to make a macropad, because this is perfect!! The store was out of black ones when I checked, so I've put my email down for when they get in.

Thank you mate! Well, I can tell you that after a year of pretty heavy daily use, it's still going strong! It really is such a stupid weak point in the design. I don't know how they could modify their process to make it stronger without expensive retooling though. I think if they made the pin a little longer and started manufacturing a stamped metal clip to slide over the top and hold onto the bottom of the bit that fails, that would probably give you the necessary reinforcement and fix the problem for good. Dunno what it would add to the cost though. I'm sure they probably sell them at a loss already, because the money is in the gas and the syrups, so they'll be reluctant to make it more expensive to produce. But I can't imagine a clip would add much more to the cost when done at scale.

Yeah, I'd say it's of good quality for the price. The braiding is clearly plastic, but the connectors themselves are all metal and feel very premium. The aviation connector is satisfying to use. I can't comment on the durability or anything, because mine is basically set in one place and barely moves. But it works... and it looks cool, so. But yeah, that would be my criticism: fabric braiding would have been nicer than plastic -- like the braiding that comes in the cables they ship with the keyboards.

@@IainFraser81 thanks a lot brother for the reply and suggestion your reply definitely cleared my confusion

@@rachitseth9324 glad to have helped brother, have a great day

@@IainFraser81 😇

Hey, thanks very much brother! It's great to get some positive feedback. I always like to post random videos about hacks I've found or things I'm fixing in the hope someone, somewhere might find them useful. It always gives me a buzz to find out that people appreciate them. Enjoy your F too. They're phenomenal vehicles.

My sub was already disconnected when I got the car, but if you just cut those two cables you see me soldering, that will disconnect the sub from your system. If you do this, make sure you DON'T snip it close to the connector, leave at least 5cm. That way, when you finally come to wire in something new, you can just splice into the wire like you see me do here, if you cut it too close to the connector you won't leave yourself any room to work later on.

Hey, sorry I missed your comment, I'm guessing you've probably gotten your problem solved at this point, but just for anyone who might discover this comment in the future, here's a link to a page showing the speaker configurations on a 2014 IS, for both types of system. Even though it's a 2014, I don't think any of the configurations will have changed in that period: www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/875986-is350-speaker-sizes.html

More than likely they're not blown, the dust covers come loose and you have to reglue them.

One thing that I feel spoils the macropad use case a bit are the keycaps. I love the OSA profile, but it would have been great if they had a shine-through option. The RGBs are more than just aesthetic on a macropad because you can use them to indicate status. It's not unusable by any means, but it's... suboptimal 😄 I do like that Keychron basically give you all the options they have on the bigger boards too. I've got a set of blue G-Pros coming and I'm going to order a few different plates: I've not tried blue switches or custom plates before and a numpad seems a great affordable way to try things out before you commit to doing it on the big board.

@@IainFraser81 I'm definitely considering purchasing it to begin my journey into custom keyboards. This will be a good way to experiment without having to incur the cost of a full board. I want to try out glorious panda switches on this number pad and practice lubing them.

The plan is to move the macros I have on my Planck over to the Q0 because I want the Planck to be full time on the secondary PC instead of switching constantly between the two. I'm a coder, so there'll be common console commands I use a lot, probably some Slack shortcuts, maybe a mouse jiggler. Honestly, nothing I probably couldn't do with AHK or by writing a console app, but where's the fun in that? I also just like mucking around with QMK, so I'm looking forward to just doing some experiments with the board. Perhaps a secret layer you can only get to by tapping out a defined sequence of keys -- and if you get it wrong too many times, perhaps it soft-bricks the feature until you reset the board. Stuff like that: lots of easter eggs.

Someone should make a mould from one and cast it in aluminium.