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Should the discharge side of the easy trap cap be vented or capped?

Why would you want or need a P trap for condensation?

7:30.....This is the part I'm having the most problems with as this part won't come out and lucky me you don't show me how to get it out you just put it all back together. Thanks.

Must be the worst house remodel ever! Great job pointing out all the issues. The report for this house would be 10 times more work due to all the problems to write up.

Costgard condensate drain seal is better than any other out there.

By using thermal imaging, home inspectors can give homeowners a more complete picture of the condition of their home. Thermal imaging technology can help detect various issues within a home. I would recommend the inspection service from Prompt Building Inspections. They are the leading service providers of building inspections in Perth and are equipped with state of the art Thermal imaging equipment.

Interesting idea: I've seen ac efficiency systems that mist the condenser with water outside. Even if the effect is minimal, in regards to efficiency, wouldn't it make sense to have the condensate drain leaking over the condenser?

does this stuff dry hard?

Thanks for this video.

Thanks Mr.Wright

Very nice, I like your thoroughness

At the beginning of the video you mention radiant barrier foil 'in previous video'... I'm interested in that cooler attic! Can you point me to your earlier video please? I can't find it... thank you! Russ

I wish I had a hidden camera filming my reaction to the "OVERFLOW IS POINTING UP AND CAPPED!!" 2:30 The ONLY conclusion that I can come up with is that the homeowner was a total prick to the installer. No professional could actually think that this was proper. Right?

Whether or not you use a trap is determined by whether the system is a positive pressure or negative pressure system. Trap is optional on a positive system. Trap is required on a negative because it sucks air (vacuum) into the handler without a trap which can cause water in the pan to splash out and soak the insulation in the bottom of the handler. It's required to keep the overflow and drain outlets at the same pressure by using a trap on BOTH outlets. The water in the traps prevents air from being sucked into the handler via the drain line AND the overflow. If you neglect the trap on the overflow (assuming it's not plugged off and has just an elbow as shown in this video), not only will you render the trap on the drain useless, you also can suck into the system and subsequently distribute throughout the house dangerous gasses that may exist such as smoke from a fire or carbon monoxide in a garage if the handler's mounted in the garage.

drain is on positive side of furnace no trap needed

What you call that thing you holding ur hand?

Sorry but your overflow is sucking in air and should also have a trap.......

Most homes are not insulated at the ceiling and most home attics that I have been in have inadequate ventilation. When you have a 150 degree attic and cold water coming into the main condensate line you will have condensation and water dripping from the line even if it is not leaking. Code has recently changed so that if you do upgrades to an AC system that you are required to insulate the condensate lines. I just repaired one that had a P-Trap that had busted from freezing. It is now insulated. Insulation should always be recommended on the main condensate line especially if it has a P=Trap installed.

plumbers putty on stops water from leaking out of the tub into the drain ....You absaloutley need the rubber gasket if you are trying to stop a leak . IE water on your ceiling if tub is on second floor ...As a matter of fact you can install a drain with no plumbers putty ....only thing is , water will drain slowly into drain if tub is filled , not creating a leak though . This advice is poor if you have a leaky tub drain

It is not necessary, but if you live in an area with expansive soil, water soaking in can cause heaving and movement.

you dont fill control joints like that. not necessary.

Thanks for the nicely done video. I was especially surprised how wind through soffit vents can displace the attic insulation. I'll be checking mine as I know the builder did not use the baffles. Lots of other tips I picked up on. Thank you!

@TheWrightInspector I just added a video of just that. hammer the inner part counter clockwise. 150000 hit and only two people asked how to do that part.

Plumbers Putty, comes in a small tub in the plumbing section

Exact same problem but then found out the whole threading was glued. Now I have to call a plumber :(

The main purpose is to keep water out, so even random cracks should be filled. Skimming over with resurfacer will typically crack again because there is seasonal movement.

Just wondering, you filled a control joint "intentional crack" but what about the surface "UN-intentional" cracks that were shown? Do you run a bead along the top and smooth it level? What about the pieces of loose concrete within the cracks? ...Do you pull them out or leave them in? Chisel them larger, then fill them in? How about a thin coat of concrete resurfacer over the top to keep water from sinking in? Thanks for the help!

Thanks! This was very helpful!!!

@jmil2000 Hammer, chisel, camera- that takes three hands. I just hammered the chisel into the inner side in a counterclockwise direction to get it turning. It damages the part you are replacing, but not the tub.