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I always use cardboard from the inside of a cereal box with a bit of oil to blend the blueing repair.

What if a Customer wanted a .260 Remington or 7mm-08 ,how would it be done?

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Very Nice !

Nice work.

Teak was a good touch.

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Please name the number of this Lyman 99 sight. Rarely seen nowadays and expensive. Tak.

Have you considered Screw Machine length drills? I switched to M42 Cobalt 135° split point screw machine drills for most drilling on my Mill for work similar to that you are showing. Spot facing with a mill prior to drilling as mentioned in another post is also good practice.

Great job! I would trust you to do anything. Going to get this video around. I am getting some more projects for you to do. Again, I’m really impressed.

Very useful video.

The first center drill was a little bent. At the shop I worked in we used spot drills before drilling either holes to be tapped or through holes. I would set the depth of the spot drill to make a chamfer for the hole so I didn't have to chamfer in a second operation. It also made relief for the tap if it was a tapped hole. On curved surfaces we sometimes milled a flat the correct diameter before spot drilling so the drill wouldn't walk. Spot drills usually don't walk having a solid shank. At times we used center drills to spot hole locations the same way you did. Lots of ways to skin a cat if you have the right tools. Most of the parts I made on a milling machine would fit in a cigar box.

Kinda unrelated to bluing, but have you ever fixed any of the 7400's that have issues ejecting the casings? I have one that just sits in my safe because the casings get stuck in the chamber and it rips the lip off trying to eject them. Ive literally tried to give it away and no one wants it.

holy crap, if you have GTAW why in hell would you GMAW?...the weld could easily be hard in spots or have cold lap. and... you use COPPER as a chill plate, NOT aluminum. pros don't use Dremel...... im out

Great repair, Don.

Good job on the repair. I have done similar repairs on different things.

As always, nice work. 👍🦬

Awesome info. I have a Win 94 with an extra hole in the Upper tang. Would you recommend this same procedure? I had envisioned drilling the hole to a std size, tapering the top and bottom of the hole with a countersink, tig welding a plug into the hole, then filing and polishing as you did. Now that seems like a few too many unnecessary steps. Will hardness be a concern on the receiver tang? I will have to send it out to have the Logo restamped.

Did you hit it with cold blue when you were done? Outstanding work!

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Nice job

We're probably going to do some business at some point I've messaged you a couple times, what I'm wondering this time is the center area of the rear "bridge " ? Is flat once you ground it im probably going with Leopold QR scope mounts which I believe are rounded, cutting them to flat would most likely make them way too big no ? Can you do the rear where you just barely grind through the bluing and blend everything in through the stripper boss , there's still a couple thousandths that's going to have to come off when I sand and sand and polish to get rid of the grinding marks

Loved the end result but the speed up got me dizzy.........as I'm working on a J Stevens "Crack Shot" .22 stock

Hi glad I found your channel.

This is a nice example and i like the way it was presented. What would be the best way/color for a beech stock that was yellow? Thank you for taking time to film, edit, post this video.

How does it fit in the receiver? How is it connected to it. That's a neat lathe dog and would like to make it.

I know I'm hounding you with questions lately but what RPM is your buffer spinning at? Mine spins at 3580 according to the sticker on the buffer, seems way to fast.

You know that 'caustic' and 'acid' are at opposite ends of the PH scale don't you? It's like saying "I am painting my car black white" Sodium Hydroxide is a strong base, there is no acid involved.

Good gosh that's not how you use a file😅

Got my Thumbs Up. Music was a bit annoying but there was no lame ai narrations. Provided a lot of details. Mostly a down-to-earth video. Thanks for sharing!

Creative and Brilliant !!!! After several broken punches I'm game on this !

Question for you, when you applied the tung oil to the checkering, did you apply 100% pure tung oil or the non 100% stuff you find in local hardware stores?

Nice video. Very educational. Does cold blue hold up well or will it rub off eventually?

Tape the handle closed on your tea holder before you dip it.

I don't understand the purpose of this.

Terbaik

The alcohol that was used to clean the barrel after polishing, is it isopropyl alcohol?

I never use anything stronger than the blue Loctite in moderation as this video demonstrates. Absolutely no problems staying tight or when intentionally backing a fastener out. It is my belief that using thread-locker is far better than over tightening a screw and stripping threads or breaking screws off. My automotive background has more to do with tightening nuts. If the application didn’t use a lock washer, ol’ blue was an inexpensive insurance policy.

I am glad to see you are keeping the almost lost art of building Custom Mauser rifles from old military rifles alive. Not too many are left doing this I built all my personal Mauser rifles and stopped many years ago I still have a few tools I doub't they will ever see use again.

I have an Ithaca Featherlite 37 12guage and, I would like to get a quote on how much you would charge to hot blue it?

I built one of these tools almost exactly the same design. I used an old barrel and made the plunger out of brass. I threaded the open end of the old barrel piece and had a piece of all thread screwed in that you could adjust to add tension to the spring against the plunger. Sure beats using your thumb.

This would look so amazing on my Mosin.

What kinda oil did you use at the end?

Never looked into what blueing took. Pretty awesome looking craftsmanship. Even if not giving out recipes, thanks for the bit of knowledge.

I've never used it. 30 years later I've never had a problem. My oldest and most used rifle is 31 or 32 years old. It still wears it's original Baush & Lomb scope with zero issues. I have a total of 8 rifles with scopes and all is good. I think people who swear by it lack the confidence in their own abilities to properly do a job

I know most homes are not set up for it, but I am getting great results from the conservation treatment, boiling, soaking, and carding. I am done with sandpaper

Nice work

It’s been a while, the hunts are on and I know I’m busy. I always chase the threads with a good tap. I have had new guns with buggered, less than perfect threads. Also I seat the screws with a mallet on the driver, back off then use a torque wrench for final lock down. Over 30 years of full time gunsmithing I have installed hundreds of scopes, only had one shoot loose. That was a one piece base onna 700 Remington. Probably some sort of tolerance stacking, or plain bad luck. Finally, never ever Loc Tite ring screws. Every one has required slicing open with a Dremel cutoff disc. Good to see you again.

So are all the parts stripped t bare metal? How if so? And also how much to refinish my remington 870 police edition? 20 inch barrel with metal folding stock?