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Probably not. From mynissanleaf.com/threads/rapid-soh-loss-since-purchase.23714/#post-489807 (not sure if this will work, if not, Google for site:mynissanleaf.com antronx reset), you'll see a post from Mar 27, 2017 where you can see his SOH went from 91% to 100% after reset. About that best you can do is get a history of where the car resided before (e.g. Carfax in the US), build month and try to decide whether the capacity bars and SOH make sense for that build month and climate. Example: Any Leaf built before 4/2013 on original battery ANYWHERE could not have all capacity bars left at this point. Any 24 kWh Leaf of any build month on original pack if it resided in a hot climate (e.g. Phoenix or Las Vegas) couldn't have even 10 bars left (2 bar loser). Even 9 is unlikely as I've seen people in hot climates with the "lizard" pack (in '15 and original '16 S) become 4 bar losers several years ago.

@@andrewc9442 Well, I mean, I don't want to point out a major fatal flaw in buying any used Leaf but, clocking cars isn't possible anymore because a vehicle is constantly MOT'd every year and the mileage is recorded. You can even tell when an old worn-out engine is being passed off as a new one, there are signs you can look for. But in this case its all about numbers, because A) You can't even see a cars battery, and B) I'm sure a worn one will look identical to a new one! And if you can simply change that 45% SOH to 85 or even 100% SOH, that makes it impossible to know what state the battery is in that you are possibly going to spend thousands on!!

Yes. It's a problem. I'm in the US. We have no concept of concept of "MOT" here, at least not nationally. Some states have some sort of safety inspection, but mine (California) doesn't. We have smog tests in CA (but not all states do) but obviously makes no sense for BEVs. CA smog test detail at www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/vehicle-registration/smog-inspections/. I lived in WA state before and they had no safety inspection and it looks like they ended smog tests on Jan 1, 2020. Besides what I mentioned, there are other methods like doing a range test from full to empty, noting the distance traveled and miles per kWh (reset it at start of drive) achieved. You can also measure how much energy in kWh is needed to fully charge that car from empty (yes, there are charging losses that complicate things).

@@andrewc9442 Yes, in the U.K. we have a yearly MOT where the car has to go into a garage to be checked out to see if it's safe etc. This has been electronically recorded since around 2007 and kept on a national database that can be accessed by the public. You can see if a car has been what we call "clocked" (mileometer wound back) and it makes it near impossible for someone to be dishonest about the cars actual mileage. It might be ok doing range tests in an EV but who's going to let you do that for 50 to 100 miles! I also doubt that you would have any comeback after purchasing one from a dealer as it would be your word against his. I was thinking of getting an EV to do my daily commute but I'm now very, very hesitant as it seems it's extremely easy for people to simply reset the most expensive part of their vehicle and make them look far better than they actually are!!

judging by the amount of weak cells you have, it seems bit more alarming. I suggest you should do a full charge and do a gentle discharge by going a full capacity drive with AC on. Then re-charge and do another run till the dashes show up. Once you do the charge, LEAF's gom will show more precise range. you can also do a software reset using a diagnostic scanner. Just ask your service provider. Hx and Soh are the values to watch out for!

@@Sanjayadon I didn't buy that LEAF, as it clearly seemed to be an unhappy pack. We eventually bought another (actually 2, but that's a long and painful story).

@@khbkhbkhb Hopefully you've find a good ev to settle in! 🚗

What is your estimated range when fully charged. It sounds you have a recently replaced high voltage battery?

I'm in a warmer part of the the SF Bay Area. My car was built in 5/2013 which is actually a better chemistry and I bought it used in July 2015. It doesn't have CHAdeMO. It gets to past 100 F (past 37.7 C) for numerous days in the summer. I probably took this video is in late 2017. It still had 12 capacity bars then. Mileage doesn't have that much correlation with capacity loss, unless the mileage is excessive (lots of cycles). It looks like I had gotten down to SOH 86% back in Oct 2016. If you want to see bad, check www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=473995#p473995. He has the same build month as me but is in blazing how Phoenix. He wrote "I got my new 2013 SL (manufactured 5/2013 ) on 9/30/2013. Lost my first bar 5/2015, second bar 9/2015, third bar 5/2016 and forth bar 8/23/2016 (31,400 miles). First 21 months mostly charged L1/L2 to 80% (home and work). My drive was 55 miles round trip with about 75% highway. As capacity started to go away, I had to charge more often to 100%, however, I tried my best to keep it fully charged as little as possible (extreme Phoenix temperatures). " High temperatures like in Arizona, Las Vegas, Texas and Florida are murder on Leaf batteries, esp. those built before 4/2013. The ones from 5/2014 thru model year '14 and the '15 "lizard" pack was the best of the 24 kWh packs. The 30 kWh packs seem dodgy too. We've had some 30 kWh cars lose 4 capacity bars already in hot weather, even after the firmware fix for incorrect capacity reporting (released in mid-2018) was applied. I'm now at about 68K miles and SOH around 79.9% (11 capacity bars now). I actually baby the battery to keep it from being at high SoC for very long (pre-COVID, I'd only charge at work for free to 80% except on Fridays) and tried to keep the car in cooler areas (e.g. underground portion of garage at work) on hot days when it gets past 85 F (29.4 C). Those in cool climates (e.g. Seattle area, Vancouver BC area, UK) esp. with the '15 model year "lizard" pack will do MUCH better in SOH than me. I have seen people with '11 or '12 Leafs with only 3 to 5 capacity bars left (7 to 9 capacity bars gone). web.archive.org/web/20190323083634/pictures.dealer.com/s/sonichondastevenscreek/0750/45b96a1e894cdf5cd42f5184d5aa5ac1x.jpg?impolicy=resize&w=650 is a pic from a Honda dealer with only 4 bars left in sorta my part of the Bay Area. www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=20725 is in my region of the Bay Area. On his '11 Leaf (worse chemistry), he lost his 4th bar at 59996 miles. Instead of getting it towed, he arrived at the dealer at 60002 miles and had to fight to get Nissan to replace the battery under capacity warranty.

@@andrewc9442 Thanks for such interesting answer Andrew 😊 So temperature as very good known Leaf battery killer. I am living in Norway, mine is ac. to VIN produced on 6.14, SOH is between is around 93% Funny thing is when I arrived home after 600km trip using only Chademo, SOH has raised to over 96% 🤔 but just for one week, then dropped back to 93. Milage today is almoust 100kkm but car is 6 years old. Quite impressive. But it is so pity that in your climate that cells so fast degrading.. Lack of simplest active cooling is wall of shame for Nissan. That might be issue for some environment protection association maybe?

My 2011 Leaf can get above 5 m/kWh in ECO mode, no AC/Heat, in day, 50 to 65 degrees, city driving. The 3 u report tells me: aggressive driving, bad tires, high use A/C/Heat, and heavy use of the go-pedal for high speeds, going uphill, perhaps binding brakes. Does this help? There’s more: quick acceleration, no coasting to red lights, hard braking, weight in the car, headwinds, high resistant road materials (sand), towing, roof top luggage carrier. More? Thanks

It had 12 bars at the time I took the video. I lost my 1st capacity bar in late Nov 2017 when SOH was 83%, back when Leaf Spy only displayed whole numbers for that value. Now in Nov 2020, my car is at SOH 79.9% or so and still has 11 bars. I guess I'll be at 10 soon?

@@andrewc9442 oh cool 😊yeah I bought a 2012 SL with 10bars still have to bar and SOH 76% it was at 78% few months back.

It reads the car's computer.

On this Leaf (a used '13) yes, because it doesn't have a CHAdeMO inlet. My previous leased '13 Leaf (returned at end of lease) did have a CHAdeMO inlet and I used it ~16 times over the span of 2 years. ruclips.net/video/FqjMlblghEc/видео.html I created when I had the prior car.

As long as you live in cooler climate, quickcharge doesnt affect battery health too much. I bought used leaf with close to 7000 QC's registered on bms. Have a vid up about if if interested.

gelisob that’s good to know. I bought a 2016 in oct ‘19 only had 2 QCs and I’ve only done 1.

I don't care about % values. I ask, what's the denominator? As for the 2nd question, I don't know. I don't care. For screening used Leafs, I look mainly at SOH. I can compare notes on mynissanleaf.com to see how close a car is to losing another bar for a given set of AHr, SOH and Hx values. However, it is super important to get a Carfax or Autocheck or equivalent to know where the car resided before. It helps validate whether the SOH and Hx values make sense for the climate the car resided in before, build month (and thus revision of battery) and age of car. Mileage is less of a factor. Some Leafs have been the victim of a reset, where the # of capacity bars reads artificially high until the car relearns the battery. We've seen a case where a reset victim also had artificially high AHr, SOH and Hx values which eventually returned to their true value. This can take months. The only legitimate reasons to do a reset are if the battery is changed, esp. with a new one.

It doesn't matter what the charge level is. You can look at SOH, AHr and Hx. However, unless the car's fully charged, you won't know the # of gids on a full charge. Pro has numerous other features like being able to read and clear DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and changing some other settings on the car (e.g. door lock/unlock settings). See the Google Play Store listing for the Pro version.

Maybe. It depends on your climate. If it's a hotter one, I'm not that surprised. I haven't been following 2017 stats, but at least 12 folks with 2016 30 kWh Leafs have lost 4 capacity bars. See www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=519601#p519601. iPlug was #12 at www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=23606&start=860, lost his 4th bar with these stats SOH= 65.87% Hx= 62.84% Odo= 18,050 mi

Thanks. I hope it degrades such that I can get a free new battery at about the 8 year point. Since I average about 10,000 miles/year my warranty should time out at 8 years. By then I assume battery technology will be drastically improved such that my new free battery will have no degradation issues and go 1000 miles on a single charge!

Lite is free and should be used to verify your phone and OBD2 dongle work before paying for the regular or Pro versions. Look at description of play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Turbo3.Leaf_Spy1&hl=en to see what regular vs. Pro offers. I feel the ability to read DTCs makes Pro worth it. Click on Turbo3 (developer's handle) to see the other versions. Do NOT buy the KW-902 dongle. Google for site:mynissanleaf.com warning kw-902 turbo3.

It's in the video. To me, SOH, Hx, VIN and odometer are most important. You can maybe look at Ahr. There are plenty of threads on mynissanleaf.com discussing SOH, Hx and Ahr. SOH probably maps roughly to % of battery capacity remaining. (I say probably as Nissan has never released public documentation on anything available on the CAN bus nor acknowledged them. Numerous folks have done reverse engineering to come up with these and decide to display them. Per Turbo3 (author of Leaf Spy on Nov 13, 2013 "I have finally added the SOH value to Leaf Spy Pro (0x5B3 D2). I have also kept the old "Health" value but renamed to "Hx".") SOH, Hx and Ahr all definitely go down as the battery degrades.

@@andrewc9442 ok, but in your opinion would 70% SOH be too low? does 70% correspond to 8 bars. how about 50% SOH, that would correspond to half the battery or about 42 mile range right???

Depends on your needs. I wouldn't buy one with 70% SOH, but if that enough for your needs and won't degrade to the point where it's unusable for how long you plan to keep the car, then it'd be ok. As I said, Nissan has never acknowledged these numbers nor really any docs. 50% SOH might be 50% capacity, but we don't know for certain. One can try to do a range test and/or charge test to guesstimate remaining capacity.

Please see my reply to David. It depends on what vehicle you're looking for and what's acceptable to you. AHr, SOH and Hx all go down as the battery degrades.

I honestly don't keep track and don't look at the logs, but from my current phone which only has logs going back to 10/16/2016, the first time I can see an SOH of 86% (or lower) is 10/24/2016. It most definitely fluctuates a bit. Looking backwards from now (9/30/17) to 7/1/2017, it seems I've mostly been at SOH 85 and 86%.

To followup, on a recent trip that involved me charging to full and running to pretty low, my SOH started rising again. On April 28, 2018, it got up to 86.05% even though I'm down a capacity bar now and have seen it as low as 83.xx%. I lost my 1st capacity bar in late Nov 2017 at just shy of 49.6K miles.