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Yeah. People don't value free stuff. He did let me smoke some quality herb though ;)

Thank you for watching :)

Most fruit should be cracker dry in 12 hours depending on your dehydrator and temp. I run mine at 55C/130F for a total of 24 hours, then store them in gasketed Sterilite/Tuperware with pre-dried silica gel. If they are too large to dry in that time, split them in half.

Hello :)

@@edwardgrand I attribute my ability to have successful grows at all times by listening to you over the last year and a half I really appreciate you. I'm going to place an order on your Spore site this evening 🤙

I send swabs internationally all the time. No problems. I use business-size envelopes and orient the swabs vertically (I cut the long wood part halfway). Never had a problem with over 30 countries. You shouldn't see gill fragments on swabs. You should find a new vendor. That is someone who doesn't understand what they are doing and you will just as likely get a clone instead of spores.

@edwardgrand I did try that and I have a jerk postmaster. He's the only one that works there. If he feels a lump he won't send it. Returns to me with notes lol. Last one I just tore the cotton off and sent. That worked 😂

Yes. They are strong enough.

Thanks Ed! 👊🏻

H2O2: I been hearing people talk about spraying the prints with hydrogen peroxide. I've never done it, but maybe it works? AB: Gentamycin, Penicillium, Cephalosporin and and other antibiotics might help. Serial dilution: I've tried it, but unfortunately it dilutes the spores and bacteria together. Charcoal: Maybe, but I doubt it with spores. Trap door, cabinet sequestration and trenching: might help clean up bacteria after the culture is started. Race substrate/plates: you can see if the mycelium will outrun the contams on agar or substrate. Water/Gellan plates: Might help the spores germinate, but so will contaminating molds. Might help with the bacteria. There are a lot of options, but I would try to get better prints. Starting with dirty prints is a major waste of time. I would concentrate on the clean ones and maybe forget about the dirty ones unless you really need them.

​@@edwardgrand Yes you're right, better to focus on clean prints :). But there is at least one dirty spore print from a really interesting phenotype and the mushrooms are not so often to find here (sparassis crispa), so I'm very happy to receive even dirtier prints and I will give it a try anyway to have as much genetics to work with as possible. I might try out the H2O2 spraying, serial dilution and water/gellan plates in a row to fight mold and bacteria simultaneously. I worked with a tek called puck drop (tiger drop 3.0) which seems also interesting for this because it is a brf substrate. Thanks for your advice!

My swabs come 10/pack, so I hope that will be enough to last me until I grow it again. Prints do have character, but I'm not sure they are worth the time and effort for me.

There are many pitfalls. I have made all the mistakes I talk about, probably multiple times. That is why I talk about them to save others the same pain and suffering. :)

Why the desiccant packs?

@@edwardgrand to help keep the humidity down so there is no puddling on the spore print

Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoy them.

I send swabs to many countries. Never had a problem. They fit flatly in a business-size envelope. They go straight through with the normal letter mail.

@@edwardgrand thanks for your reply, I’ll get my order in tonight. Cheers

You should watch my other videos on swabbing. All your questions will be answered. You let the swabs dry before storage. You can use a swab multiple times by ripping off small pieces of the swab with tweezers. You can swab multiple plates with one swab. You can make >20 swabs from a medium-size cap. Swabs are cheap AF and store well in small ziploc bags.

@@edwardgrand great to know, thanks

It is actually better to send swabs. There is no metal to show up on the detectors. I send swabs all over the world. They fit almost flat in a business-size envelope. Never have a problem.

I've got a few other videos. Many on other channels.

Thank you for listening. I'm glad I help with the work day :)

@@edwardgrand is there anyway I can help contribute to the cause ?? Love you Ed keep it up 👍 you definitely got the game on 🔒

Thank you for watching. Let me know if you want to join sometime.

Swab as lightly as possible. Normally, spores will take 5-10 days to germinate and grow pretty slowly for about a week. If you see rhizo growth after 3-5 days, it is likely cloned gill tissue.

That is definitely true, but I think the number of spores on a light swab would represent more genotypes/phenotypes than any one person could run in a lifetime. Most people end-up isolating a monoculture and narrowing it down to one possibility anyway. I love running multi--spore spawn these days, so that is a nice compromise for me. I'm not narrowing it down to one phenotype, but it makes the results in the tub more manageable.

@@edwardgrandthat’s exactly my thoughts. I could never see myself running the same exact print for more than a couple grows, because by the 3rd grow I’m already inclined to pull spores again. Swabs are so seamless, literally less than an hour from swab to plate. You can probably work the same print for a whole generation if you used tiny enough samples - I’m WAAAY to ADD for that😂

That screen trick is kind of cool. I've also used chop sticks balanced over the top of a glass to make MSS. I will add that to the list of cool things to do with spores. Thanks for commenting.

Thank you for watching. I'm glad you enjoy them. I also binge watch a lot of other people's vids. Sorry for the short one today, my voice is kind of thrashed from talking too much last night.

⁠​⁠​⁠​⁠@@edwardgrandNo need to be sorry bro hope you feel better soon. Ain’t nothing wrong with talking too much just shows you love your work and I respect that. To me I consider you an OG in this Mycology world😎. I ALWAYS look forward to watching your videos as well as rewatching them late at nite while taking notes …trying to learn much I can you feel me but definitely gotchu on notifications for the next LIVE😎 Be EZ bro stay safe!🤙🏽 ❤🍄‍🟫

Yes, the grain should provide more than enough protein. It would also be a contamination risk. And expensive.

@@edwardgrandmakes sense, thank you

Michigan is not really north enough for a good view. I think I say them once in the U.P., but we were on a lot of mushrooms :) I think he might have been talking about the Sothern Borealis because I live in Thailand???

It just looks dry because it has the hull still on it. The grain is actually 'al dente'. Dryer is better when it comes to the surface. But you want the grain cooked properly. It's a difficult balance to strike.

We need the Monsanto lawyers ;)

@@edwardgrand 😂😂😂

That was a great show Ed by the way I had just started to read that speciation paper while I waited for media to cool but didn't finish it before I had to pour plates. That's gonna be my goal today is to read that paper

Mon-mons seem to just make generic fruit in the F1. My di-mons often throw something pretty cool. Maybe the mitochondria in the monokaryon (recipient, 'female') greatly affect the expression? I noticed all my crosses with the Toque mono had Toque hats. Just a thought. I wonder if some of the cytoplasm and organelles get transferred with that nucleus from the dikaryon?

Thanks. I am making a list of pros and cons for an episode later.

I wonder if that ‘last forever’ is a comment about the number of spore or longevity?

That's funny. I just realized I was doing that as I checked this message :)

@@edwardgrand thanks for all your knowledge ed!

Thank you. That is the sweetest thing someone has said to me in a long time :)

Completely unnecessary. Cracker dry, stored with silica gel in a sealed container is the easiest, most convenient and cheapest way.