Видео

I received my sv605CC last week and Banding is completely gone in the corrected cameras with serial number = SN(B) But I have other problems, one them is Amp Glow on left upper corner.

You are very welcome, thank you for watching.

A decent amount, it wasn't at the highest setting. Although the backspin did surprise a friend of mine who used to play semi pro in Europe. She struggled to get the balls back over the net for a while :)

Glad I could help

Thanks for visiting

Yes, I use it with the 102ed. I haven't done much recently with the combo, but generally my focuser is racked near the 40 line on the focuser scale. Backfocus after the reducer is 55mm I think.

Thank you and good luck!

Thanks!

Hi, I purchased it separately from SVbony. I think it was around $25 at the time.

@@gabebalazsphoto do got the link perhaps?

thank you, glad to help

Thanks for your input. I think we just have to let the market decide if there is any demand for SVbony cameras at their current prices.

Personally I prefer not to use an ASI air. A Mini PC with Nina and PhD 2 works far superior for me. It also allows me to use a wider range of cameras and not just ASI products

You're welcome.

I don't remember exactly but 75% sounds good. I highly doubt though that it can do 140 km/h.

Yes it does.

Mine didn't 3+ years ago. I bought the net separately.

Thank you, and clear skies!

Hi, did you ever get a chance to use it. How has it turned out?

@@GreenJeepAdventures I have, and it works great! Now I just have to get more experience using the whole rig before I can share any decent photos.

Thank you!

Hi, I actually own one of those. It is not suitable for nebulas since it cannot do long exposures. I only use it for guiding and occasionally planetary work (recording videos, lucky imaging)

Thank you!!

Szia Sándor! Pár éve vettem az Amazonon. Sajnos nem tudja váltogatni a nyesett és pörgetett labdákat. Vagy az egyik, vagy a másik, de keverni nem lehet.

about $150

Hi, the manual says that at and above gain 120 the HCG mode turns on and lowers the read noise significantly while still providing great dynamic range. So that's definitely recommended to do. I've also found measurements online where Sharpcap measured that gain 130 was the unity gain. So for my imaging session (video of that coming soon) I used gain 130, offset 20. I'm not yet sure about the ideal offset, I just picked a number that I determined probably to be safe and not crushing the blacks. I never use gain 0 (or wahtever is the lowest gain with no HCG) on any of my cameras, but different manufacturers actually designate the base gain with different numbers (like one manufacturer's 0 gain might be gain 100 at another manufacturer.)

@@gabebalazsphoto Hello. Thanks for your fast reply. I am very interested which settings you are going to use in your video. It is my first dedicated astro cam. So i am still figuring out which settings to use. ast question: did you do a sensor analysis with sharpcap? Thanks.

So am I. Clear skies are a scarcity in NW Ohio this time of the year, so I'll need to make the most of it :)

Thank you and good luck on your astro photography journey.

Thank you

Hi, the head of the robot is capable of shooting side to side by panning sideways. There is an "oscillation" knob where you can vary the speed of the side to side movement. And by stopping the oscillation, you can aim it at any direction and leave it there if desired. www.amazon.com/Automatic-Training-Machine-2-Wheel-Assembly/dp/B0BLVN5V5D/ref=sr_1_33?crid=33J28WF2FGLE7&keywords=table+tennis+robot&qid=1677585994&sprefix=table+tennis+robot%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-33

@@gabebalazsphoto thanks sir!

Thank you. There is some chromatic aberration, in the blue channel mainly. But nothing bad, and it's fixable. When I use a dual narrowband filter for nebulas (e.g. IDAS NBZ) there is virtually no CA because the filter rejects the wavelengths that cause CA. So when imaging with narrowband filters one less thing to worry about :)

Köszi!

It's a great camera, no issues, except for one I discovered when using it with my 8" Meade ACF SCT. And it may be just how the cooling fan was seated inside my camera, but I noticed that the cooling fan had vibrations that were slightly visible in the photos as blurred stars. When I turned off the cooling (and the fan) the image was sharper. So I ordered a Noctua replacement fan ($10 or so) and replaced the original with the Noctua fan. The slight blur and vibrations were gone. But again, it was only visible at higher focal length. I never noticed that when I was using my SVbony 102mm refractor (the one in this video.)

@@gabebalazsphoto I also have a HD8 SCT, so I might have to do the same, but it is great to know that is the only issue so far 🙂

Glad it helped!

Thank you so much.

Back then I purchased it from Amazon.

I only have one, the other one if a finder scope. I managed to fine tune my mount, and use tricks here and there to achieve a sub 1 guiding on a regular basis.

@@gabebalazsphoto I’d love to hear some, my guiding really sucks sometimes

Hey, I started out with a DSLR and a telephoto lens, on a stationary photo tripod, shooting 1 sec exposures, over 1,000 of them :) You have to start somewhere. Then later I rigged my camera and lens onto a Meade DSX alt-AZ mount (a cheap go to mount with plastic gears.) and my subs went up to 6 to 8 seconds, woohooo! :) Then I bought an iOptron Skyguider Pro which was a huge boost for my astro images, even with the rest of the setup being the same. I'm actually planning on using my Sony mirrorless, 70-200 2.8 GM lens, and the Skyguider Pro tonight to capture a wider view of the Orion nebula and the flame and horsehead. Unfortunately, the camera is not Ha modified, so it won't capture most of the red Hydrogen emissions. But it's going to be my secondary rig. My 102mm refractor will be aimed at the soul nebula tonight. Hopefully the weather will stay clear tonight for a few hours...

Thank you. The blues and greens in some of the images here are not due to any specific filter but were achieved through a special processing in a HOO palette (Hydrogen, Oxygen, Oxygen). Basically, areas of the image that are rich in Hydrogen (the most dominant element in most nebulas) are red, hence the "normally" red nebula image, but areas that have more oxygen are bluer via this processing method. I achieve this through processing where I heavily boost the blue and green channels of the image. The blue and green signal is usually much much weaker than the red (Hydrogen), so you need a good image with a longer integration time to start out with in order to achieve the more colorful versions of these nebulas. The 3 channels of the image (red, green, blue) most often contain different signal, so if I reduce the red, and boost the green and blue, the final RGB image is a more colorful of the image (that almost always starts out mostly red before this processing method.)

Thank you. I plan on using pavers, and should have used them for this video too (yes, a cheap and simple solution). I just didn't buy them in time for the video :) But great tip, thank you!

Thank you! I'd say Bortle 5-6. The SW edge of the Toledo, OH metro area. Not a bad place, fairly good skies but still living close to the city. (The suburb is Perrysburg, OH)

You work on your technique and supplement with yt videos

Thank you!

Thank you! That camera is a good choice too.

Thank you very much! I'm waiting for more clear night here in the Great Lakes (rare this time of the year) to produce more videos like this one. In the meantime, I plan on adding "processing" how-to videos using my past images.

Thank you. Yes, the learning curve is definitely there, even for me, who's been a professional photographer for 12 years. M33 is a relatively easy target. I've been doing mostly narrowband nebula imaging in the last few months, now, those are more challenging. I'm planning on making a video how I processed my Pac Man nebula (which is featured in the intro slide show of this video.)

@@gabebalazsphoto Cant wait, 12 years professional no wonted you have the eagle eye, am still learning how to use my Sony astro camera. LOL the picture was brilliant