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You’re welcome David!

Thanks Eli again!

Lots of ways to skin a cat, err GT6. The wire should have worked; didn't it weld very well?

Awkward place to work with that heelboard/crossmember under there. How does it look inside?

Looking good! Yeah, the rot you highlighted at the end is not typical, so as you say something must’ve caused water to accumulate there. Would you mind giving me the measurements from the lower seat belt bolt on the wheel arch to the seat pan and spring tunnel in the area you just repaired? I’ve just drilled that hole in my car, and I’m curious how close to the stock position for the later cars it ended up!

Looks like it will work. Nice job!

YO that’s ms comito that’s my turmpet teacher right now

Nice! One thing I've seen a lot of pros do is is round the corners of patches instead of square. Of course you'd have to drill the corners of where you're patching... But the whole point being you get less heat build up on the corners. Just something to think about.

That looks pretty dang good David! Bead rollers are a pain. The trunk floor is most of the way out, and I’m hoping to get the rest cut out later today.

Looking good, looks like a bit of rework will get you there. I’ve found the handle of my engine crane is handy for bending smaller radius curves around!

Good start. Looks good. The trough on the new part looks a little too narrow as compared to the original. Granted no one will see it under normal circumstances, but you'll find fitting it easier the closer to original profile you can get.

Looking good. I did that area a few weeks back, but didn’t need to go anywhere near the pressings. Then found a whole other area of complicated rust repair to contend with instead :D

was wondering what you were going to do with that tape the moment you changed frames. smart idea.

With the state of that floor I’d definitely go for replacing the whole panel, particularly as you’ve got an offer of an original one. However, I did rebuild a lot of those pressings when I did my Spitfire with just a mini 1’ long brake, a welder, and a fair bit of time, so it can be done!

Replace, definitely. Would be chasing welding holes all over the place if you patch. Get that free floor and go to town.

I have a triumph spitfire (1978, so the pressing should match yours) parts car that I was forced to disassemble entirely. (The alternative was all the panels getting scrapped). The boot floor for it is structurally in mint condition, as it was a Washington car its whole life. If you want it, it’s yours. It isn’t really worth anything to me and I’d be happy to mail it if you paid for the shipping. Let me know. I can supply photos so you can make a decision

You have Cibie headlamps, those are fantastic!

Any progress is good progress. I think those are quarter valances. If you're thinking of moving the bonnet to a spitty bonnet, you're probably just as well off splicing in just a new nose. I'd like to see Kyle from Cart Auto Restyling tackle that nose. It's both worse and better than mine was.

What irks me here in New Zealand is that UK suppliers such as James Paddock and Rimmer Bros. refuse to acknowledge and abide by NZ consumer law; and they're untouchable by the Justice system here :-( >:-0

I just discovered your series - I like the short format :-) In New Zealand we have a mason wasp that builds egg chambers from mud. They go for little sheltered nooks & crannies. My car has them in odd places like yours.

Firing order is 153624. Therefore watch the valves opening and closing. Adjust rocker gap when valve is closed. Distributors wear over time. Play in the shaft will adversely affect timing. Best to buy a new one . Easy swap.

You might consider keeping your gloved hands out of the picture

Welcome back. 😊

first! I am glad you are back on it. If you want to make it like the original, that flange should be the other way around, but if it works that way and you like it there is nothing wrong with that. Keep crack-a-lackin' :)

Internal modem upgrade. Some company sold them. The J grabbers are so that the user could install it without soldering. The board in the battery pack allows for using rechargeable nicd cells in the pack, and having the computer recharge the batteries. The nicd pack has a resistor on the board and one of the pins is connected differently, and this tells the computer to expect the lower voltage and to allow the wall power to charge the batteries. There were even other battery packs that had their own power jack. The point of that was 2 things, one, the pack could be charged by itself outside of the machine, but more importantly it allowed the battery to act as a UPS for the computer. The pc-8300 (similar machine) was often used as a part of other equipment that needed to run 24/7. The normal power jack and battery, even with the rechargeable pack installed, does NOT act as a UPS. If the wall power is plugged in, then power comes from that wire - period. If the wall power goes out, then the computer dies. The battery pack is not in the circuit ready to take over, even though it is being charged. But the special pack with its' own power jack does. To use that, you plug the power into that pack instead of the normal jack, so that the switch in the normal power jack stays closed and only the battery powers the computer. Then the special pack does have a couple diodes in it so that when the wall power goes out, the batteries are already connected and start powering the machine.

Maybe the alligator clips were an initial test to see if whomever it was could actually make the modem work, and then for whatever reason they got left in place

The add on board is a 300 baud modem.

That panel is not short David, it looks like this because it is overlapping. Always when two curved objects overlap one looks much shorter. I am sure if you cut the old one away they will match. However... as far as I can see you don't need to go that high. I usually do, because the rust has spread that far and also for easier access to the inner structure. But your inner structure looks good and also what is left of the outer metal after you cut the bottom is not bad, so I would just replace the bottom 2-3 inches or whatever you cut already. At least that is what it looks like on the screen. Maybe I am not seeing something that you can see better. In any case, I am happy to see you cutting the rust without hesitating! You are doing great!

Great start. Glad I discovered your video on Part 1. I've subscribed and will be watching each episode.

Unfortunately quarter panels are expensive. You'd be better off replacing the full panel, and you could more easily address the rust behind it... Of course I'm preaching to the choir here 😉. Carry on my freind, you're making good progress.

Very nice! Don't forget self tappers. They would have held those two panels closer together to weld. 😉

Sorry about the poor audio. I need to get a real microphone...

Great progress!

Nice!

Nice work. Weld thru primer. Was the box originally seam sealed?

👍

Looks good! Remember to clean up and paint the inside of the firewall and that she side of the battery tray while you have access, before you weld in the tray. 😉

Too short

👍 On that edge of the battery box, cut a strip extra wide and then trim it to size once fully welded.

I know I'm not the best welder...

....aaand done! 🙂

I fully admin that I'm a moron. You shouldn't emulate me; if you really want to learn, you should watch someone better than me, like Elin or Chef Tush, and do what THEY do instead.

The paper towel...😂. Sorry, but I couldn't help but laugh...I saw it coming. Besides, is totally something I would do. As for the back flange where the battery box sits, I recall mine was on an angle as well, add I just bent that edge in the new box to match.

Yea i love these kind off tools, only downside is all the small sharp debris flying everywhere in your clothes and your hair lol!

That's pretty slick. After all the spot-welds I ground out or drilled and now you tell me... How long will that cutter last?

One more piece out. Making progress!

Soak them in vinegar overnight, clean well and neutralize with baking soda. Or use evaporust if you have it.

Nice touch with the jokes! Cool to see you slowly but surely defeating the beast. I might not comment on every video, but i'm watching!:-)

What you’re experiencing with that zinc mounting screw to the solenoid, is the very reason why I don’t use old screws like that. I replace them with either stainless steel or with a small socket, hex head or even something requiring an Allen key with a washer. little upgrades like that won’t hurt the value of the vehicle, increases service ability in the future.