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hi, there are two tracks per memory location, so you can import to either of the tracks. You can't change rhythms that are coming with RC-500 that I know of.

if you're looking to use DPDT and you want to drive LED, have a look here: www.geofex.com/article_folders/millenium/millen.htm I used "The Millenium 2" option successfully. Just be sure to read the article :) For this to work your effect should have resistance to the ground at the output (say a vol pot, or a bleeding resistor or something like that) - that's used to turn off the LED when the effect is not engaged. Anyway, see if that works for you.

there's a table with hfe here: barbarach.com/building-a-fuzz-face-clone-experimenting/ here I used BC109C I think, and that one has gain from 450-900, which is similar for BC108C and BC549C for example. Check the pinout of your transistors. Which transistors are you using? The transistors should not be a critical choice as long as they are NPNs ... I mean, to get a working circuit :) This won't work with PNPs, I have a different video/article for that.

hi, it's possible (depending on your guitar). Keep in mind that this one uses 3V coin battery so the whole assembly is smaller than a 9V battery. Actually, I'll do a quick video over weekend and will add the booster into my salvaged guitar. I have an old RG270 Ibanez just for these purposes that I saved from a dump.

@@BarbarachBC hello thank you for the info, looking forward on that video of yours cheers

well, you can't really do it with a mono jack, you need a stereo jack (if you want to use this expression pedal). I'm guessing that's your question. You want this pot in the expression pedal to act as a voltage divider, so you really need 3 pins. You could, in theory, do it if you add another resistor interfacing Raspberry Pi (to help you make voltage divider) and using a mono jack, but it really depends on what you want to achieve. I'm not sure what are you trying to do - create your own expression pedal or connect an existing expression pedal but using a mono jack?

Thanks for your reply@@BarbarachBC . I am trying to connect an existing expression pedal to ADC0 to read values. I have a stereo female jack connecting the sleeve to ground, ring to ADC0 and tip to 3V3 out. I have a mono lead connecting the expression pedal to the female jack (does it matter that it's mono and not stereo?). Reading the value from "analogio.AnalogIn(board.GP26)" gives back seemingly random values, and nothing happens when I move the expression pedal. Could you please help? Have I done anything wrong? Thanks

that won't work without stereo lead. With mono lead your ring and sleeve are shorted so your ADC0 is effectively connected to ground. What you could do is, leave sleeve connected to ground, disconnect ring, connect tip to ADC0, connect another resistor (say 10K) to ADC0 and then the other end of the resistor to 3V3. So GND -> sleeve, ADC0 -> TIP & Resistor, Resistor to 3V3. This should give you some control. Essentially, your Expression pedal is no longer a voltage divider, it's just a variable resistor, and the new resistor makes it a voltage divider.

Keeping in mind that these are guitar pedals we're dealing with, and this is not a component affecting the sound, nearly any P-Mosfet would do. Just pay attention to the pinout, and make sure that Max Vgs is greater than your zener diode voltage used for protecting the transistor. Also make sure that max VGSth (or on) is less than 9V. I did a basic search for P-channel mosfet in throughole technology and in-stock on Farnell, and it returned me 103 results. Highest Max VGSth for the lot is 5V so any would probably work. I randomly looked up VP2206N3-G ... looks good (my TP2104 which I chose the same random way :D is probably crappy in comparison to be honest, I just had it lying around). Do you have any just lying around?

for the slider inside the pedal, left position is ZW44, right position is GT-OD

If you ask me whether the clipping will occur, it probably will. I'm guessing that synth levels are much higher than raw guitar, so clipping will most likely occur, and if you have some level/volume control before it, you can even control the clipping. Also, if you use germanium diodes or schottky diode, you can get clipping at lower signal levels. The challenge is to control the level of distortion. The gain is quite high in the circuit to allow for very hard clipping, and if the output level of your synth is not as high, you won't get as dramatic effect (but it will still work). I would say just try it, without trying it you won't know whether you like it or not :)

The sound routed through it was from a single transistor oscillator that makes a saw wave that already sounds maybe clipped, so maybe that was why wasn't so different through the diodes. By the way, considering picking up a scope. For MCU based electronics and synths and effects, is a 2ch scope necessary or will 1ch be enough? Seem like maybe the right kinda guy to ask. PS: Recommend trying some LEDs as diodes for fun. @@BarbarachBC

@@OMNI_INFINITY I'm not really the best guy to ask about the scope. I have a cheap digital one :) does the job for me, but not really a lab kind of thing. And definitely try LEDs, but use reds first they have lower forward voltage (and thus clipping voltage) than green or blue (but try all you have :D keeping in mind that a "regular" silicon diode has way lower clipping voltage).

Ah, so LEDs would need more voltage to clip? By the way, tried that clipping stage with a 555 oscillator yesterday also. Seems an amp stage is maybe necessary to get it to be amplified enough to clip. May build an opamp amp later. Recommend best single supply opamp for audio amplification? @@BarbarachBC

@@OMNI_INFINITY For diodes, have a look at this: barbarach.com/mxr-distortion-plus-on-breadboard/#experimenting just a bit more info. In terms of Op-Amp, honestly, I use TL072 all the time. There are better op-amps for sure, but unless you have some super specific requirements, TL072 will work just fine. The only thing I would say, if you just need something quick to breadboard - any op-amp you have lying around will most likely do (as long as your power supply is within it's absolute maximums :)) You can always breadboard it again with a different op-amp if you feel like it later.

Relay could introduce popping when turned on and off (similarly to a physical switch) but it wouldn't be really noisy outside of that. Are you experiencing noise due to a relay? Magnets won't affect the signal on their own. I imagine if conductor was moving in the magnetic field that would cause current induction and some noise, but nothing is moving in the magnetic field. These relays are using DC current so no AC component to affect the signal due to coupling of some sort or causing electromagnetic interference. I'm by no means an expert but if you have some source of information on this I'd be more than interested to know. Of course, I did not run audio through the relay in the video, I was just messing around with an LED so I'll have to add a video with actual audio in it :)

Thanks :) I do have somewhere tone control - when I was covering Tube Screamer and my take on it, but I don't have a post for op-amp based tone control. Good idea, I'll do that at some stage :)

Is it so the LED is on when the controlled device (effect) is on? So you avoid odd issue with LED being on and the effect off and other way around? Or you want something else? It's tricky. You won't find many devices that do two way communication as in: one MIDI IN port and the other MIDI OUT and the devices communicate back and forth. Those devices probably exist but most don't have this ability. You might do something with RC-500 I think since it does have MIDI out, but I'm not 100% sure. The easiest is to have a known state when you turn on your device. Take RC-500 for example, you'd have to configure RC-500 so you know it's starting configuration etc. But you can literally configure every single memory location of RC-500 in many ways so it's tricky. If anyone knows a good way to deal with this I'd be very curious to hear.

hi, I'm not sure if you figured it out already. I can only guess - some of the general steps to do are: check if you have connected everything correctly, check if you're using correct resistor values. The voltage divider at the input is very important, I think I had too high resistor values once, even though the ratio was correct, and base current was throwing the ratio off and I could barely keep the transistor on. If you figure it out, or if you tried different things and it's still not working please report back and we can continue troubleshooting ;)

hey man, breadboard/build the fuzz and record some stuff through and I'll link to it

This is negative ground version. Depending on what you mean by positive ground :) this video might interest you: ruclips.net/video/jzI0KxQvIHE/видео.html The video is about how I would rewire this effect to use PNP transistors. So it is still using +9V power supply but it uses PNP transistors and it's ever so slightly different wiring than this version of the effect.

I used KiCad (www.kicad.org/) for schematics and PCBs, and DIY Layout Creator (bancika.github.io/diy-layout-creator/) for breadboard diagrams.

Hey there. I hear you :) I have Bad Stone at home and it's way more dramatic sound. Phase 45 is a quite a bit subtler in comparison, and I had my doubts to be honest. In my next video I will get it to sound better with different JFETs and better matching and will be clearer that it is sounding like a phaser. What I mucked up is I put R6 and R9 to be 10K and they should be 24K (I was using Phase 90 schematic as a basis of this, but I was looking at Phase 45 at the same time so got that a bit messed up so some of the bottom end does not get swept as it should). But I'm working on another video to get that sorted ... it's a learning process.

Thanks a mill, I'm really glad this helps :) Teaching isn't really what I'd call this :) it's more of a shared experience of stumbling around DIY pedalverse. This whole phaser thing has been a great learning experience, and I'll tell you now, there will be mistakes made :) I hope no one is jumping into building this without breadboarding first :)))

:D I know how you feel. The fact that some people love them doesn't mean everyone does. I had a Tube Screamer 20 years ago and I remember hating it. What I really wanted was a RAT at the time ... only now I came to realize that after building one myself. By now my taste changed ... so now I like Tube Screamer most of the time :D:D:D

I'll have a look :) I had built a test box a while back. It just did not do it for me at the time, it did not lower the noise and interference as much as I wanted it, and it just wasn't compatible with the way I like doing things. Maybe I should revisit that idea. Thanks :)

@@BarbarachBC Yeah it won't lower the noise if the circuit is on a breadboard, its only designed to make the connections easier. It might lower the noise a bit if you use insulated input/output jacks. Anyhow heres my vid it might help: ruclips.net/video/l5nUPE81Lm0/видео.html

Let me know how did it go, I hope you build it and enjoy it ;)

@@BarbarachBC of course I will but it won’t be tomorrow 😎

:) Take your time, no worries

Hey there. The issue is in R1 and R3. 2n2222A should work just fine. From what you're saying, the effect is working, but you did not get the boost? The reason 430K and 43K are chosen (and you can use 470K and 47K which are more common values) is to try keeping the input impedance as high as possible but still being able to keep transistor working. This is still low impedance and causes some "tone suck" and with such small values for R1 and R3 you're using that effect will be even more pronounced. Lower the input impedance lower your output signal essentially. Anyway, maybe try higher values for R1 and R3, even 100K and 10K will be an improvement.

I'm glad you found it useful :)

Thanks for that I'll add the link to the channel ... doh!