Видео

Hi Lam Thank you for your generous guidance, which we greatly appreciate. Van

Just use a old halogen lamp bulb

Lots of good ideas. Thanks..

Reuse is definitely better than recycling. What are you using to charge the single cell?

Good work friend! 😊🙏🏻

Great job..Peace

Not sure if you're still monitoring these comments, but do you have any idea why I get no hiss/mist when I blow out the hot water side, in either the shower or the sink? I followed your instruction, but is there some valve or something that needs to be open/closed when blowing out the hot water side with the compressor?

Live vegan. Use electricity for good, not evil.

Glad I found this video, it's exactly what I needed

Hello Park, fantastic video showing the eletrical upgrades on your hymer. I have a 2017 hymer aktiv and my original EcoTrek batteries start failing, I think the capacity of the battery significantly degraded. I am thinking about replacing the battery and maybe upgrade a bit on the electrical system. Do you mind if I reach out to you with some diagram and if you could give me some suggestions? Thank you so much!!

Very interesting application! I have used a 12v plug in one of my vehicles to power the radio when the chassis battery is swapped out so that it retained all the settings. Thus is brilliant. Suppose if you ever need more than 2 minutes you can use a larger battery. Thanks so much for creating this and sharing. 🙏🏻

GPS location please

Why did you build a heater pad being controlled by voltage instead of temperature?

You can turn off the lcd via the app. Goto control, enter password then toggle display always on.

Just don’t use the set screw, totally unnecessary. Or leave it, and stop tightening before it breaks.

Basic idea good. No way I was using that type of saw. Started with a hack saw. Tight work space, lots of work but did a slot. Could not turn the screw though. These have been on for 24 years. Next got my Dremel using a thin, round abrasive wheel. Cut through the brass like a hot knife in butter but way easier to worrk in limited space. Cut deeper slot to no avail. So cut a triangle around the screw and broke it off exposing the screw. Screw broke when in turned it this time and backflow came right off. Dremel is the way to go but be careful not to cut too deep into the threads. Replacing the set screw is an excellent idea.

What settings did you use for the controller?

I do not understand. In this design you are not using the "Charing detect pins" from the BMS at all. Instead you are using an external controller? How exactly is the controller set up? I see a couple issues here; 1- If the JK BMS has the ability to detect charge or no charge state and turn heating on/off accordingly then why would you need to use the A30-UA controller? 2- If you wire the controller as you have then there is no way for the BMS to turn on the heat pads in a low temperature discharge scenario. 3- The way the controller is wired, when the heating pads are turned on they will draw from the battery and charger and not from the charger exclusively.

Great design! I will use it on my DIY battery in my rv.

Problem is all the MOSFET gate capacitance results in rather slow enable/disable times. Also, the microcontroller ADC reading of current shunt resistor to monitor for reverse current is rather slow. DC offset on shunt sensed voltage op amp is another issue. Charge disable override typically happen when discharge current exceeds 2-5 amps to prevent overheating of charge blocking MOSFET body diode. If charging is disable, it must re-shutdown charging MOSFET when discharge current drops near zero or goes negative. When inverter load current hovers close to charge MOSFET blocking override threshold (2-5 amps), the blocking MOSFET can chatter ON and OFF as the current passes its threshold to re-enable charge blocking. There can be a short burst in charge current leak through due to the re-disable charging MOSFET turn off delay. If the current hovers in this threshold region the short charge current leak-through bursts add up and can result in cell overvoltage damage. It is rare to be in this override threshold condition for a long period of time, but it is a possible vulnerability that can damage battery by overcharging.

Why did you turn off the balancer of the JK? smart phone shows "off"...

Hi Park, nobody seems to be able to answer this question. Can you run 2 JK bms in parallel? In other words, if i have 8 life's and they are setup for 4s, with 2 in parallel for 12 volts, will the JK Bms do this? Thank you.

This is Buddy again. I’m asking where you got the fan for the that you put underneath the microwave. Could you send the link?

Fantastic thank you for sharing!

excellent, clear explanation! the paralleled AGM battery complicates circuit behaviour, but represents a real world condition and is well explained. Thank you!

Hello Lam! I tapped 12 VDC off the antenna amplifier/distribution module to power our TV, so a small inverter in not necessary and the tv can operate without the large inverter on. I was able to run the wiring inside the wire loom that has the coax and power wiring inside.

You mention not needing the kicker battery. Do you have an alternator protection module? I understand you don't need to kick the KS2, but the more important function IMO is act as a big capacitor to protect the alternator against inductive kickback voltage spikes when the battery gets full and charging is abruptly shut off.

Northeast RV sells a crank charger? Did they use your design or do they have another device they sell?

Genius idea for the set screw swap . It’s an alen wrench set screw like on a tub spout or a shower handle . Epic 💪💪 idea

Those boxes are top notch! Perhaps you could share where you sourced them and the connectors you used.

Excellent presentation, with clear and methodical explanation (not the usual clickbait garbled trivial stuff around - or else the presenter is talking to 9 yr old kids). Keep up the great work

Can you provide link for charger? 65a is great. I need that. Thanks

how to connect heating pads? when I connect them according to the diagram, the mats are still heating even though the status is "heating off"

I can't work out the best way to mount it to a panel

is this touch display always on or only in discharge time?

Please be aware that the QR-Code area is CONDUCTIVE. Its (+) as well!!! So please be careful while working at the cells! I have no experience about other cells than EVE. Other brands could be different.

That was very interesting and help. I would like to know how to build your aunt Millie app box. I don’t know how to do that like I built similar things. Thanks for the video.

I tried the ohm-meter (Fluke 83) on one of my EVE 304 cells and got a reading from (-) to case starting just under 1K and rising to a little over 1.1K and still slowly increasing. The u-ohm meter (YR1035+) was interesting. As I had measured before, the cell itself measured 0.22m-ohm. The casing to (-) measured about 39.5 ohms(!!). I can only attribute the difference to how the instruments measure resistance. And that would be an interesting video in itself... I agree that the case is not directly connected to the (-) terminal. But it doesn't quote act like it's just floating either, at least on the ohm-meter.

Good idea. I used a hacksaw to create a slot and it worked great. Removed with a small screwdriver.

Thanks, I had this idea and tried to explain to my misses but she couldn't visualise it! Simple and warm. Great minds.......

hi! looks like you are using the orange silicon heating pads. they seem to get very hot because they are used for 3d-printers . they might get hotter then the recommended max. temperature of 60 degrees celsius... whats your experience?

Has anyone figured out what the two red/black heater connection wires are for? In the description they are called charging detect pin + -

👍

nice work am interested

Great development from gen1 to gen2 ! I will try the same set up tomorrow. One difference will be my battery is 24v (25.4v nominal) and solar charge set to 28.4v. I will buck down to 12.4v for heating pads. Can the voltage + sense be on the solar/ battery busbar, and power + behind the DC buck 12v?

Hello. What kind of external power do you mean?

the 4 wires to the ring terminal for heat, does that connection go 'high' for heat on? or does it go to ground? what voltage can i expect on that wire to trigger my solid state relay, is it 5v 12v or battery volts? Edit: ok watched to the end now lol that'l teach me to not wait, so I guess it goes to ground when it needs heat.

Heating even when there is no charge current? I just tested my setup and even when there is no charge current present, the bms is heating my pack if it drops below my set temperature. I was expeting that it would only heat the pack is there is any charge current.

where did you get these heating pads from?

OK but why would you design a battery with common port or with separate ports?